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> 1. Black Wall - Left
On Ramp
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British
Avg: 2 from 21 votes
Type: | Trad, 400 ft (121 m), 3 pitches |
FA: | Kim Schmitz and Norm Simmons, 1971 |
Page Views: | 2,468 total · 17/month |
Shared By: | V.X. on Jun 27, 2012 · Updates |
Admins: | Aron Quiter, Lurk Er, Ky Bishop, Colby Wangler, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Black Wall seasonal raptor closures
Details
Mind nesting raptors that raise young on the Black Wall some years. If you sight a peregrine, contact Dan Joannes, staff biology guy for the Truckee Donner Land Trust at Daniel@tdlandtrust.org
Description
Pitch 1: Climb the ramp that trends up and right from underneath the "Firecracker" starting area. Slab out easy 5th on the ramp, then the climb trends up through discontinuous and sometimes dirty cracks.
Pitch 1 variation: finish on the recent "Rat Ramp" sport route anchors on the face to the right. 35 m to ground. Preview the excellent 5.10a bolt route, "Rat Ramp", while descending (or set a toprope and try it firsthand).
Pitches 2, 3 and/or 4: A 5.7R right traversing second pitch, to a left facing corner crack. Up the corner and belay on top, or continue either right or left to the summit. Unlike several of Carville's topos on Black Wall in the 1999 Falcon Guide, Johnson's newer North Tahoe guide is easy to follow on this one.
Pitch 1 variation: finish on the recent "Rat Ramp" sport route anchors on the face to the right. 35 m to ground. Preview the excellent 5.10a bolt route, "Rat Ramp", while descending (or set a toprope and try it firsthand).
Pitches 2, 3 and/or 4: A 5.7R right traversing second pitch, to a left facing corner crack. Up the corner and belay on top, or continue either right or left to the summit. Unlike several of Carville's topos on Black Wall in the 1999 Falcon Guide, Johnson's newer North Tahoe guide is easy to follow on this one.
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