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 ADVANCED
Middle Mother's
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Beyer's Rib 
Centurion 
Coxswain 
Days of Wine and Roses 
Dirty Harry 
Double Reach Around, The 
First Impressions 
Flora Dora 
Free Falling 
Iron Maiden 
Jagged Edge 
Jenny-Lynn's Special 
No Name 1 
No Name 2 
No Name 3 
No Name 4 
Ol' Hucklebuck, The 
On Golden Pond 
Rise of the Phoenix 

On Golden Pond 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 150', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
FA: KC Baum
Page Views: 384
Submitted By: Matthew Seymour on Apr 14, 2008
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Description 

The route is a finishing pitch high on Middle Mother's Buttress: see Location.

The main attraction to this climb is a short steep hand and finger crack just right of a dihedral. When viewing Middle Mother's head on, this crack is around the corner to the left of the left skyline arete.

Climb the beautiful hand and finger crack in dike rock up to good stance. Continue up a great, low-angle, hand crack that leads directly to the rappel tree atop Middle Mother's.


Location 

This climb is an optional finishing pitch to either Flora Dora or Free Falling.

If approaching from Flora Dora: From the second belay, climb a short distance up the dihedral until you can step left into a finger crack that leads around a roof to the left into the main part of the climb.

If approaching from Free Falling: From just below the huge boulder lying against the wall, traverse right around the corner to a good ledge. From here, the main crack is obvious. Follow good cracks and face climbing until you gain the crack.


Protection 

Nuts and cams to hand size.



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By Jesse Zacher
Administrator
From: Grand Junction, Co
Nov 7, 2010

Rap station has been replaced thanks to the ASCA and WCCC. You can now rap straight down to the top of " The Ol' Hucklebuck" and then rap to the ground.