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Memorial Wall
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BMW Traverse 
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Kirk Arens ArÍte S 
On Demand S 
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Short Term Memory S 
Sneaky S,TR 

On Demand 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 539
Submitted By: Aron Quiter on Aug 16, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (10)
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topo w/new bolts

Auburn Quarry Open Daily 'til Sundown! MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Climb up the initial easy overhung face to the prominent smooth overhang. The top anchor is in view above.

The top overhang is definately the crux, hands get real small and footing becomes slippery. Originally rated 5.11a, this is not an .11a. If you're under 6', this route will feel even tougher.

Protection 

5 bolts to a 3 bolt top anchor.


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By Kelley Gilleran
From: Sacramento, Ca
Apr 23, 2013

Is this the route that has no hangers, just a line of studs going up the wall?
By John M Ross
From: Fort Lauderdale, Florida
Apr 24, 2013

well there is one bolt, the 2nd but yes the rest are just the bolts without hangers, bring some small nuts and hang them on those suckers and it should be a spicy lead!
By Rough
Apr 24, 2013

Yeah, I would strongly suggest not trying to lead it in it's current state. It is called On Demand because it has some crytpic and "slick" beta. I used to get people telling me all the time, no way that thing is 11a. I would float it and say, "There ya go On Demand. :)"

I hate the fact that I can't get out there and do more work. I have seriously screwed my knee up and most likely will need more surgeries, but I really need to get out there and "fix" up the Memorial Wall.
By John M Ross
From: Fort Lauderdale, Florida
Apr 24, 2013

i hope my comment about leading it was taken as sarcasm, also to add there is is only one hanger at the anchor!

Condition Update!!!
as of 4/27/13 all bolts are back, thank you so much aaron!
By Rough
May 6, 2013

Hey Ben,

Next time I will hacksaw them off. I didn't bring one the day I rebolted it, but will next time.
By Julian Bobilev
Jan 26, 2014
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

The bolting is awesome and highly appreciated due to the three ledges present on the route. I took many falls on this route, all of them safe except for a sideways fall due to some stupid beta on my part.
By Cave Man McElroy
From: auburn
May 7, 2014

Just curious about clipping the anchor... Are you supposed to mantle the very upper ledge (the one directly bellow the anchors)? for little added ending spice? or are the chains just not hanging low enough to clip easily from the ledge?
By Rough
May 8, 2014

There have never been chain anchors on this route. The mantle at the end is part of the route and the fun!