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g. V3 - Middle Earth
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On Any Monday 

YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Dick Williams, Joe Bridges
Page Views: 890
Submitted By: monk on Jul 18, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (14)
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Description 

Climb ~10 feet up to a piton (no pro, ~5.7). Clip the pin and continue up to the remains of another pin (pulled in 2013, see below) and make a delicate move past the crux. Belay from the ledge about 15 above the crux (you can scramble down right from here) or continue up Thin Slabs / Thin Slabs Direct.


Location 

~20 feet right of the Thin Slabs / Thin Slabs Direct crack.

Protection 

I use a ball nut to backup the pin at the crux. Small nuts may work there too.


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By paulmadry
Jul 19, 2011

the knifeblade piton is suspect (looks good enough for aid but not far fall). I managed to add a blue a and black alien next to it.
By lucander
From: Stone Ridge, NY
Nov 4, 2012
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

I got replacement cost + a six pack for whoever is skilled with piton craft and replaces that second knife blade pin.

Also, the moves to the first pin feel harder than 5.7 to me - maybe it's a reach thing, I'm 5'5" and to do a tenuous move to make the clip.
By David Stowe
Nov 5, 2012

Have not led it in a few years but that second pin is unnecessary as it takes gear, both aliens and small nuts.
By Lukasz M Fidkowski
From: Berkeley, California
Nov 9, 2013

Fell at the crux today, pulled out the pin (2nd pin). Had a ballnut next to it that magically held...
By losbill
Nov 11, 2013

Whoa!
By SethG
Nov 11, 2013

Glad you emerged unscathed.