|g. V3 - Middle Earth
Climb ~10 feet up to a piton (no pro, ~5.7). Clip the pin and continue up to the remains of another pin (pulled in 2013, see below) and make a delicate move past the crux. Belay from the ledge about 15 above the crux (you can scramble down right from here) or continue up Thin Slabs / Thin Slabs Direct.
~20 feet right of the Thin Slabs / Thin Slabs Direct crack.
I use a ball nut to backup the pin at the crux. Small nuts may work there too.
Jul 19, 2011
the knifeblade piton is suspect (looks good enough for aid but not far fall). I managed to add a blue a and black alien next to it.
From: Stone Ridge, NY
Nov 4, 2012
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
I got replacement cost + a six pack for whoever is skilled with piton craft and replaces that second knife blade pin.
Also, the moves to the first pin feel harder than 5.7 to me - maybe it's a reach thing, I'm 5'5" and to do a tenuous move to make the clip.
|By David Stowe|
Nov 5, 2012
Have not led it in a few years but that second pin is unnecessary as it takes gear, both aliens and small nuts.
|By Lukasz M Fidkowski|
From: Berkeley, California
Nov 9, 2013
Fell at the crux today, pulled out the pin (2nd pin). Had a ballnut next to it that magically held...
Nov 11, 2013
Glad you emerged unscathed.