|g. V3 - Middle Earth
Climb ~10 feet up to a piton (no pro, ~5.7). Clip the pin and continue up to the remains of another pin (pulled in 2013, see below) and make a delicate move past the crux. Belay from the ledge about 15 above the crux (you can scramble down right from here) or continue up Thin Slabs / Thin Slabs Direct.
~20 feet right of the Thin Slabs / Thin Slabs Direct crack.
I use a ball nut to backup the pin at the crux. Small nuts may work there too.
|Comments on On Any Monday
Jul 19, 2011
the knifeblade piton is suspect (looks good enough for aid but not far fall). I managed to add a blue a and black alien next to it.
From: Stone Ridge, NY
Nov 4, 2012
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b
I got replacement cost + a six pack for whoever is skilled with piton craft and replaces that second knife blade pin.
Also, the moves to the first pin feel harder than 5.7 to me - maybe it's a reach thing, I'm 5'5" and to do a tenuous move to make the clip.
|By David Stowe|
Nov 5, 2012
Have not led it in a few years but that second pin is unnecessary as it takes gear, both aliens and small nuts.
|By Lukasz M Fidkowski|
Nov 9, 2013
Fell at the crux today, pulled out the pin (2nd pin). Had a ballnut next to it that magically held...
Nov 11, 2013
Glad you emerged unscathed.