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Omega Pacific Link Cams
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By "H"
From Manitou Springs
Jan 14, 2013
Axes glistening in the sun

I've got 1 link cam that I use. I've fallen on it once and didn't have an issue, although it wasn't a hard fall. It was in granite and "perfectly" placed according to their website. I for one like REI, but sometimes their workers need a little more school...Case in point... I had one tell me that I should replace my rack of metolius cams with all link cams because they have a wider range!! WTF? Anyway here is from their website regarding placement.....

Here are a few more pointers:
Assess the overall placement for quality of the rock. Dense, solid stone makes for better placements, generally. Flaky, loose rock or expanding flakes should be avoided, whenever possible.
Attempt to place cams so that there is maximum contact between the lobes and the feature, ensuring that the load is as equally distributed as possible between all four lobesets.
Place cams so that they are neither "tipped out" nor "overcammed" as either instance can make the placement less stable or difficult to remove. As a general rule, deploy Link Cams so they are within 70% of their maximum range and 10% of their minimum, fully-retracted position.
Clip a carabiner and a longer sling to the sewn sling on wandering routes or under roofs to prevent the cams from "walking."
Be sure to anticipate direction of load, should you fall or weight the cam. This is particularly important with Link Cams, due to their unique construction. Since they are built using trisected cam lobes, Link Cams can become damaged%u2014and the placement may fail%u2014if a load is placed that makes the cam "shift" when a climber falls onto it. We are constantly researching ways to improve the strength and durability of Link Cams, but it is critical that Link Cams be placed with direction of load in mind. You should always place any removable protection with this principle in mind, of course, but Link Cams in particular should be placed so that the stem is aimed directly toward the ground and, when loaded, the position of the axle does not rotate during a fall or when bounce-testing. Although Link Cams' flexible stems can help "correct" a less-than-ideal placement, it is still important that the initial placement be made in proper alignment with anticipated load.
Visually inspect every placement before relying on it! This is an excellent discipline regardless of which piece of gear you use, but with Link Cams, proper placement is crucial to maximizing safety and effectiveness. Placing a piece "blind" can often lead to an improperly-placed cam and may not be reliable. If a Link Cam is not able to be placed properly, in direction of anticipated load, select another piece.
CE/UIAA certified and made in the USA


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By bearbreeder
Jan 14, 2013

Rob Davis wrote:
I've read a lot where people say basically this, but I honestly am not sure I completely understand why. I know people that use links as panic pieces, and it seems like using a cam that needs perfect placement as your panic piece is just asking for error.


you take it off your harness and plug it into a solid parallel crack ... there are times when you need to get SOMETHING in ... even just to hang off ... the links are the range of 2-3 camalots, if you used up your last c4 of the proper size 30 feet below, yr screwed otherwise

contrary to popular belief it doesnt need "perfect" placement ...

but it does need to

- be oriented in the direction of the fall ... or in a horizontal ...

- the crack should somewhat even .... it doesnt need to be an absolutely perfect crack

- shouldnt be on in the bottom of a pod

- should be extended with a draw

the are NOT beginner pieces, simply for the reason that beginners should start with cams where they dont develop a "plug and play" attitude ... finding the right size is an absolutely critical skill ... many beginners buy links because they think they can just take any size and plug it in brainlessly

ive fallen on all my links 5+ times each and probably 20-30+ times easily on the purple one


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By Ian Stewart
Jan 14, 2013

mortly wrote:
I can't believe I wasted my time reading this thread. It should be removed on account of the fact that it falsely hints towards gross negligence on the part of Omega Pacific, and you need to read a page and a half of posts to discover this real truth. Most people probably aren't going to stick around long enough to learn that this was all about a trigger wire.


If you didn't want this thread to continue to exist, why did you respond to it and bump it to the top 8 months after it had already 'died'?

I really wanted to give Dow the benefit of the doubt, and I had no problem with his review being one that criticizes the lack of customer service vs the discussion of the failure itself. But, after reading the response from OP that Dow had his cam fixed up and returned within 8 days, it was apparent that Dow was just horribly impatient. 8 days for a company to receive you cam, fix it, and have it back in your hands ready for use? That sounds like the OPPOSITE of bad customer service to me. Hell, many of my new gear order from online retailers take more than 8 days and all they have to do is take my money, throw shit in a box, and have UPS pick it up for them from their warehouse.

I've never had the desire to own any link cams, and I still don't, but I'd have no problems buying OP gear knowing that they take care of their customers.


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By mortly
Jan 14, 2013

Ian Stewart wrote:
If you didn't want this thread to continue to exist, why did you respond to it and bump it to the top 8 months after it had already 'died'?


Because if you search for "Omega Pacific Link Cams" in google, this thread comes up on the first page. Therefore many people will end up on the first page of this thread when looking for information about these cams. In other words, just because the thread is "dead" on MP, doesn't mean it's dead on the internet.

If I were Omega Pacific, I would be very concerned this fact, as the lack of substance behind Dow's initial rant definitely tarnishes their product's reputation.

However I will admit that an important discussion as been had in this thread, as I have learned a lot of valuable information about how to correctly use the link cam.

I think Dow should edit his initial post and fully disclose the nature of his cam's breakage and OP's response. Considering OP's totally excellent response and customer service, I think it owes it to them. It would also be useful if he were to give mention/linkage to OP's special instructions for using the link cams, as other have done much further down in this thread.



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By Ian Stewart
Jan 14, 2013

mortly wrote:
Because if you search for "Omega Pacific Link Cams" in google, this thread comes up on the first page.


Ah, gotcha.

mortly wrote:
I think Dow should edit his initial post and fully disclose the nature of his cam's breakage and OP's response. Considering OP's totally excellent response and customer service, I think it owes it to them. It would also be useful if he were to give mention/linkage to OP's special instructions for using the link cams, as other have done much further down in this thread.


I agree, an edit with the thread resolution (that OP is actually a pretty awesome company) should be added to the first post. A moderator could probably do this, too, if Dow doesn't get around to it.


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By Caprinae monkey
Apr 19, 2013

I really enjoyed this thread showing people on MP have independent, logical thoughts and don't just blindly follow one side, request more information when the detail are shady, and recognize information hiding.

Among other things, this thread shows that: the cams didn't fail in their main purpose, someone commented trigger wires need replacement no matter what company (good for me to know), that the people on MP are able to suss out a situation, and lastly, Omega Pacific's customer service post shows they are a great company.

I used Omega Pacific Link cams for the first time yesterday... pretty cool additional features above regular cams. One of the most inventive features (the others being dual axle cams, 3 lobes) for cams since SLCDs were invented.

I am in awe (yeah i'm dorky) of all these modern inventions for climbing making it safer and allowing higher grades, better practice equipment, keep up the good work.


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By Zappatista
Apr 21, 2013
Book me, officer.

^^^^Positivity. Must be a troll! :)


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By EricSchmidt
Apr 21, 2013

Killing In The Name Of wrote:
^^^^Positivity. Must be a troll! :)


Unfortunately caprinae monkey is dead serious... She is from Cincinnati though, maybe that explains it.


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By Caprinae monkey
Apr 23, 2013

LOL... not a troll, maybe a little troll :D. Yah i was serious, but you'd think that being in cincy would kick the pollyanna out.


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