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Omega Pacific Doval Carabiner
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By NYClimber
From New York
Apr 9, 2013
Awesome slab climb right out of the water! Rogers Rock, Lake George, NY. Summer 2013.

Does anyone have any experience with these carabiner's?


OP Doval
OP Doval


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By kennoyce
From Layton, UT
Apr 9, 2013
Climbing at the Gallery in Red Rocks

NYClimber wrote:
Does anyone have any experience with these carabiner's?


I absolutely hate them, they take the worst qualities of an oval, and combine them with the worst qualities of a D and bring that all into the single worst biner ever made (IMHO).


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By NYClimber
From New York
Apr 9, 2013
Awesome slab climb right out of the water! Rogers Rock, Lake George, NY. Summer 2013.

OK thanks.


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By nicelegs
From Denver
Apr 9, 2013

That sounded harsh but the reality is, that probably wasn't harsh enough.

I would rather spend a day indoors watching conspiracy theories on youtube than spend a day climbing with dovals.


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By NYClimber
From New York
Apr 9, 2013
Awesome slab climb right out of the water! Rogers Rock, Lake George, NY. Summer 2013.

nicelegs wrote:
That sounded harsh but the reality is, that probably wasn't harsh enough. I would rather spend a day indoors watching conspiracy theories on youtube than spend a day climbing with dovals.


Wow! That's rough dudes! LOL.


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By John Wilder
From Las Vegas, NV
Apr 9, 2013

OP doesnt make the Doval anymore, fwiw. They make a similar carabiner called the Lava, but the Doval went away a couple years ago, i think.


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By Ray Pinpillage
From West Egg
Apr 9, 2013
Cleo's Needle

OP makes some of the heaviest caribiners on the market.


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By Gif Zafred
From Pittsburgh, PA
Apr 9, 2013
Gif on Bimbo Shrine, Kaymoor

When I first started climbing, I chewed through two Omega locking ovals in only a few top rope sessions. Put a bad taste in my mouth about the company. Call it harsh, but I wouldn't trust my life to Omega gear.


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By cfuttner
Apr 9, 2013

I use them as racking biners. They where really cheap and light enough. Don't use them for anything else though.


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By NYClimber
From New York
Apr 9, 2013
Awesome slab climb right out of the water! Rogers Rock, Lake George, NY. Summer 2013.

John Wilder wrote:
OP doesnt make the Doval anymore, fwiw. They make a similar carabiner called the Lava, but the Doval went away a couple years ago, i think.


John,
Campmor is still selling them!

????


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By Larry S
Apr 9, 2013
The wife and I road-trippin on the Connie.

Ignore the name, they're a symmetric D with a wiregate. Kinda Pointless, to be honest. If you want a good racking biner for nuts/tricams/etc get a real oval. If you want biners for draws or racking cams individually, get some normal wiregates so you can tell the orientation at a glance.


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By randy88fj62
Apr 9, 2013
Thunderbolt Peak in the Palisades

I do not like the two I own because you cannot at a glance tell which end is the opening end. If you get them super cheap, sure buy them, then maybe paint the opening end for visual cue?


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By Larry DeAngelo
Administrator
From Las Vegas, NV
Apr 9, 2013
!

NYClimber wrote:
Does anyone have any experience with these carabiner's?

I like 'em. Probably them most versatile carabiner out there. A few are part of my "don't leave the ground without them" gear. Used them just last weekend for a carabiner brake while on a minimalist gear day.


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By harpo-the-climber
Apr 9, 2013

I have heard of people using them as light weight oval for aid.


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By will smith
From boulder
Apr 9, 2013

Looks like they would be easy to cross load and therefore fail.


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By Paul Trendler
From Bend, Oregon
Apr 9, 2013
 VOTCD. Photo  by <a href='http://Tylerroemer.com' target='_blank' rel='nofollow' >Tylerroemer.com</a>

I never had any cross-loading issues with them more than any other carabiner, but the orientation did goof me up a bit. For a few weeks I was using them on alpine draws, but as mentioned above, i found myself trying to clip in to an upside down biner. My dovals are currently in use for hanging my rock rings off the trusses in my garage, and tying down my canoe to my car.


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By NYClimber
From New York
Apr 9, 2013
Awesome slab climb right out of the water! Rogers Rock, Lake George, NY. Summer 2013.

I bought 1/2 dz of the Dovals but have not used them yet per se - so I guess I will find out first hand what I think of them. I have not had any issues with Omega 'biners thus far. I put them on my dogbones for Sport Climbing and plan to try them out this week on some bolted Sport routes and see what I think of them.


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By Mike
From Phoenix
Apr 9, 2013
Doing the jump-across off The Mace.  I never get tired of this climb.  Photo by Wednesday Hugus.

kennoyce wrote:
I absolutely hate them, they take the worst qualities of an oval, and combine them with the worst qualities of a D and bring that all into the single worst biner ever made (IMHO).


+1. I got 2 for free a long time ago & really wanted to like them. Eventually I had to face the reality that they suck at just about everything except use as a leaver 'biner.


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By NYClimber
From New York
Apr 9, 2013
Awesome slab climb right out of the water! Rogers Rock, Lake George, NY. Summer 2013.

Mike wrote:
+1. I got 2 for free a long time ago & really wanted to like them. Eventually I had to face the reality that they suck at just about everything except use as a leaver 'biner.


No kidding! Gee - def discouraging for sure!


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By Will S
From Joshua Tree
Apr 9, 2013

When these things came out, over 10 years ago, they were relatively cutting edge. Very light for the day, wiregate, unique geometry for a light weight biner. A good, but not great, biner in it's time

But that was then, designs have moved on for the better.

Around the same time, they (Omega) had some funky shaped lightweight wiregates called the JC. I still have some of these kicking around. They managed to make a very light biner (again, for the time) with a big fat rope bearing radius, by channelizing down the spine of the biner. Kinda scary looking honestly, but again pretty much cutting edge for the day.


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By Brian Scoggins
From Eugene, OR
Apr 9, 2013

I really think the doval was designed by a comittee who had heard in broad strokes the advantages of oval- and d-shaped carabiners and thought "we can do that" without ever bothering to ask what design choices actually led to the advantages. Instead, you've got an ovalized exterior but the interior is still d-shaped, so there's shifting. Then they make sure the nose isn't very prominent, so its hard to tell which end is the hinge of the gate without looking at it. The only thing they got right was to give it a straight spine with a nice rounded exterior, but then they made it out forged, shaped stock so its still not as good for a carabiner brake.

The doval is literally everything that could go wrong in carabiner design that still results in a carabiner that passes UIAA certification.


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