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Potter's Point
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Speefnarkle.com S 

Omega Glory 

YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 45'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c [details]
FA: Edwards 1999
Page Views: 916
Submitted By: Trevor V. on Nov 27, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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BETA PHOTO: Top rope hanging over Omega Glory

Description 

The route just to the right of caveman. It starts on a small boulder next to the wall where you can reach up and clip the first bolt from the ground. The start is as hard as it looks. Sustained hard moves end at the caveman anchor. The route is very well protected and can be toproped using a directional bolt found at the top.


Location 

The route is found at the caveman boulder located down and to the left of the entrance boulders. Stay to the left after you arrive at the first boulder at potters. Follow the rock cairns or bushwhack down to the back side of caveman. The bottom is accessed around the left side. Omega Glory is the 2nd route from the right, that heads up the steep face.


Protection 

5 bolts to the anchors



Photos of Omega Glory Slideshow Add Photo
Working Omega Glory...Photo courtesy of Antonio Lobaro
Working Omega Glory...Photo courtesy of Antonio Lo...
Sticking the second crux...Photo courtesy of Antonio Lobaro
Sticking the second crux...Photo courtesy of Anton...
Comments on Omega Glory Add Comment
Show which comments
By andy patterson
Administrator
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Dec 3, 2011

The best sport-climb I've ever encountered in SB. Hands down. Every single move is memorable.

By steve edwards
From: SLC, UT
Dec 22, 2011

I'm going to agree on this one. One of my favorites and not just because it's hard (for me). Super fun moves all the way.

By Trevor V.
From: Santa Barbara, Ca
Jan 7, 2012

Lots of chalk on the route. Who else has been working it besides me?

By andy patterson
Administrator
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Jan 7, 2012

Bernd goes up there a lot, and I've been up there a bit too. The chalk is probably Bernd's. He was up there last week.

By Trevor V.
From: Santa Barbara, Ca
Mar 9, 2012

This line is too good....you will dream of it until you send.

By steve edwards
From: SLC, UT
Mar 14, 2012

I'm really glad people like this route. I've put up a lot of bad routes in my time but this one I loved and for the longest time no one would go up there. Psyched to see people enjoying it.

By Will Barnes
From: Edmonton, AB
Jul 15, 2013
rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c

Not a move on this thing that isn't classic! Definitely one of the best hard routes in sb, although trebuchet now gives it a run for its money. Can't wait to get back on it