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Omega Buttress

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Annals of Time T 
Dihedral of Horrors T 
Edge of Horror, The T 
Manufactured Crisis T 
Omega Crack T,S 
Omega Triangle T 
Unsorted Routes:

Omega Buttress  


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 7,500'
Page Views: 15,370
Administrators: Mike Snyder, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Nick Stayner on Mar 26, 2006
Forecast:
Fri Sat Sun Mon Tue
Clear
71° | 44°
Clear
76° | 44°
Mostly Cloudy
75° | 48°
Thunderstorm
61° | 45°
Chance of a Thunderstorm
68° | 44°
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BETA PHOTO: View of Omega Buttress from the Death Canyon trail...

Description 

There are a lot of fun routes on this small buttress/tower. With such a short approach, it's in the same class as Guide's Wall, No Perches Necessary and Baxter's Pinnacle: not overly alpine in nature. But the weather, some loose rock, and gully descent will remind you that you're in the 'Tons!

That said, it's a wonderful place to go if you've only got a half-day or don't want to commit to a bigger/longer route.

Getting There 

Park at the Death Canyon Trailhead near the southern entrance of the park. Hike for a little over 2 miles (you'll climb up to Phelps Lake overlook, and then descend 2 switchbacks into Death Canyon proper). After hiking up the actual canyon for about 0.5 miles, you'll pass 2 switchbacks. A few minutes after the second switchback, look for a talus slope leading up to the Omega Buttress. The buttress is very high, but the unmistakable dihedral of Dihedral of Horrors makes a very good marker.

Hike up the talus until you arrive at a gully below the buttress. The easiest path up the gully takes some 4th class terrain on the right side of the gully for about 50 feet. Continue up the loose and somewhat nasty gully for another 10-15 minutes to arrive on the bottom of the Omega Buttress.

Total approach times is about 1 1/2 hour.

Descent 

This is the descent for Dihedral of Horrors and Annals of Time

Two ropes required.

Locate the huge tree with lots of slings. A double rope rap leads to a gully. Follow the trail but DO NOT rappel off the lower tree! We made this mistake and had to climb back up some. Some downclimbing will get you to a grassy descent gully and back to your packs.

Note: Do not follow the HUGE gully to the left, instead aim for the saddle to your right and downclimb that gully!

Climbing Season



Weather station 5.0 miles from here

6 Total Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',3],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',2],['5.10',0],['5.11',3],['5.12',1],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Omega Buttress:
Annals of Time   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches, 350'   
Dihedral of Horrors   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches, 400'   
Browse More Classics in Omega Buttress

Featured Route For Omega Buttress
Location and approach

Omega Crack 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b  WY : Grand Teton National Park : ... : Omega Buttress
OMEGA CRACK - P1: 5.12b, P2: 5.12bThe finest rock route I've done in the Tetons. Exceptional rock. Very clean cracks, with technical and powerful face climbing. Far and away the steepest crack in the Tetons....[more]   Browse More Classics in WY

Local Information for Omega Buttress
Photos of Omega Buttress Slideshow Add Photo
After hiking up the talus, pass a steep initial section of gully to the right.  Then continue up the loose gully above to the apron slab below the buttress.
BETA PHOTO: After hiking up the talus, pass a steep initial se...
Omega Buttress
BETA PHOTO: Omega Buttress

Comments on Omega Buttress Add Comment
Show which comments
By Chris Weber
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 28, 2009
Left a C4 #1 on the crux pitch of Cardiac Aretes 7/27/09. Email me if you get it out and want to return it...

Nice to have a #3 and 2 #2s for it, as my #1 tipped out and walked in, apparently.

Edit: I guess there are 2 cracks to choose from on the crux pitch, one just right of the roof is what I did, which is described above. Some say (I didn't really look at it) that the crack about 4 ft right is the originally done route, which supposedly is slightly easier (5.9) and tighter hands. YMMV.