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Poseidon
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Odyssey T 
Om T 
Penelope's Tapestry/Fun T 

Om 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 400'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Steve Grossman, John Steiger, Pat Ellinwood, 1978
Page Views: 369
Submitted By: Clay Mansfield on Jun 2, 2012

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BETA PHOTO: Crux pitch

Description 

Om is a 4 pitch route up Poseidon that starts with a exciting, exposed crux pitch and ends with 3 pitches of "meh".

P1. Start below big left-facing flake and follow thin cracks up and left on crimps and thin finger jams, tip-toe on the arete separating the Poseidon's white west face and the Red Wall, then traverse up and left to a belay. We belayed about 20 feet short of the huge upward pointing spike (original belay was above this spike?)

P2. We chimneyed up between the spike and the main wall, and stepped across once near the top of the spike, then moved up and traversed right until we ended up on the 3rd pitch of Odyssey.

I'm not sure if Om and Odyssey share the last 2 pitches, but that's how we did it.

P3. Up crumbly dihedral, not too much trustworthy rock here. Belay up on large ledge. 5.9

P4. Short pitch to top, couple ways to go. ~5.7.


Location 

It starts from the ledge that splits Poseidon in two, ~15 feet left of the 2nd pitch of Odyssey.

You can approach the starting ledge a number of ways:
1) Walk around the far side of Poseidon, and walk behind a corridor formed by a flake that spits you out under the 2nd pitch of Odyssey.
2) Climb the first pitch of Odyssey (5.9)
3) Climb first pitch of Something Unsaid (or Every Trick in the Book var.)


Protection 

Bring your little guys for the crux pitch, including brassies if you got em. I think we had doubles up through #3 BD and one #4 BD for the rest.



Comments on Om Add Comment
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By Charles Vernon
From: Tucson, AZ
Jun 3, 2012

Hey Clay, does it look like you can veer onto Something Unsaid's upper pitches, after finishing Om's crux pitch? It looks theoretically possible on Steiger's topo, and it sounds like the upper pitches might offer a better, more sustained finish.

By Clay Mansfield
Jun 4, 2012

Looking back, I think I traversed past where you would head up to do Something Unsaid's upper pitches, so I think it's definitely doable. At the time, though, moving right towards easier ground seemed really appealing.

By Charles Vernon
From: Tucson, AZ
Jun 4, 2012

Right, I generally find that to be the most appealing option myself!