|By Warbonnet |
From Utah and Cambodia
Jan 22, 2014
The "ribbon starts" are above Boreas. Two choices: right (towards Olympus ridge) or left & up about 250 to 300 feet. Challenging route finding, however, the left slog presents the best opportunities; head for what I call "The Diamond". (Everyone else has a "Diamond", why not us?). You can see this from the valley, esp. when a snow storm comes. It retains very little snow, hence, revealing its steepness. Prominent face. If you're lucky, right or left (above Boreas), and look for solid ribbons of ice (easily missed), you can find 2-3 pitches of WI3-4 in a good year. If you get all the way to The Diamond & try to get down, it will be late, and you might end up at the edge(s) of large cliffs. We usually bring an I-Tent, a sleeping bag and hang out, then descend to the EAST where you will find a couple of water fall climbs. Long, circuitous couple of days but, paraphrasing the movie titled: "Far From the Maddening Crowd".
To really get to know this area, hike it in the summer. More streams than expected but rattlesnake invested; take two hiking poles, ready to do battle with the slither-ettes.