Olton’s Shoulder 1936 Original Route 5.8
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 150 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.7+ [details] |
| FA: | |
| Submitted By: | Andy Busse on Oct 26, 2010 |
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BETA PHOTO: Hope this helps 1 of 3
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Description (East Facing) Take the vertical crack, follow the weakness up and left ascending the easiest line to the summit.
Location Situated on the east face of the major formation, 110’ up the (north/south) chimney that divides Olton’s Shoulder from Liaison. Locate the highest chock stone (boulder), the route begins just north of this.
Protection Gear: Camalots: .5-#4, Nuts.
Descent: Rappel (2) off the SW side (natural anchor, bring cordelette)
BETA PHOTO: Hope this helps (2 of 3)
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BETA PHOTO: Hope this helps (3 of 3)
Lawrence G. Coveney, App...
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Tator Tot at the start of the Original Route. This...
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| Comments on Olton’s Shoulder 1936 Original Route |
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By Andrew Gram
Administrator
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Oct 27, 2010
| I don't think this route sees much traffic. I did it back in 1994 or so, and i've never really heard of anyone else doing it since then. A fun off the beaten path adventure. I'd give a big thumbs down to adding a bolt to the route, but a rap anchor would be nice. I don't remember exactly what we did to get off, but I do remember it being a hassle. |
By Andy Busse
Administrator
From: Rapid City, SD
Oct 27, 2010
| The route was climbed last year for the new guidebook. The rappel is somewhat standard for the area and functions quite well for the amount of traffic it has seen. Please keep in mind this is one of the original routes for the entire Black Hills and to modify for your own peace of mind would only devalue the work of the original first ascent party from 1936, even if they stood on someone's shoulder to get it done! |
By joelhagan
From: Rapid City, SD
Feb 14, 2011
| "Please keep in mind this is the original route for the entire Black Hills" A. Busse
From the article posted above it appears that the 1936 party climbed at least one of the Cathedral Spires before this route.
Joel |
By Wilson On The Drums
From: RapidCity, SD
Aug 17, 2012
rating: 5.6 PG13
| amazing summit! super easy route with only one hard-ish move getting off the chockstone. the rappel was pretty crummy considering all the vegetation and ledges, but still worth it. gave it the pg-13 b/c if you didn't get up into the groove and fell making the first few initial moves off the chockstone you'd be going for a little (big) trip into the gulley... |
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