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Olton's Shoulder Area
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Oltonís Shoulder 1936 Original Route  

Oltonís Shoulder 1936 Original Route  

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 150'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b [details]
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Submitted By: Andy Busse on Oct 26, 2010
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BETA PHOTO: Hope this helps (3 of 3)

Lawrence G. Coveney, App...
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Description 

(East Facing) Take the vertical crack, follow the weakness up and left ascending the easiest line to the summit.


Location 

Situated on the east face of the major formation, 110í up the (north/south) chimney that divides Oltonís Shoulder from Liaison. Locate the highest chock stone (boulder), the route begins just north of this.


Protection 

Gear: Camalots: .5-#4, Nuts.
Descent: Rappel (2) off the SW side (natural anchor, bring cordelette)



Photos of Oltonís Shoulder 1936 Original Route Slideshow Add Photo
Hope this helps 1 of 3
BETA PHOTO: Hope this helps 1 of 3
Hope this helps (2 of 3)
BETA PHOTO: Hope this helps (2 of 3)
Tator Tot at the start of the Original Route. This route is a pretty fun adventure. The slightly-offwidth crack at the beginning is a bit exciting and has great jams. After the crack there is less exciting, easier scrambling but the view from the summit makes the route totally worth it.
Tator Tot at the start of the Original Route. This...
Comments on Oltonís Shoulder 1936 Original Route Add Comment
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By Andrew Gram
Administrator
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Oct 27, 2010

I don't think this route sees much traffic. I did it back in 1994 or so, and i've never really heard of anyone else doing it since then. A fun off the beaten path adventure. I'd give a big thumbs down to adding a bolt to the route, but a rap anchor would be nice. I don't remember exactly what we did to get off, but I do remember it being a hassle.

By Andy Busse
Administrator
From: Rapid City, SD
Oct 27, 2010

The route was climbed last year for the new guidebook. The rappel is somewhat standard for the area and functions quite well for the amount of traffic it has seen. Please keep in mind this is one of the original routes for the entire Black Hills and to modify for your own peace of mind would only devalue the work of the original first ascent party from 1936, even if they stood on someone's shoulder to get it done!

By joelhagan
From: Rapid City, SD
Feb 14, 2011

"Please keep in mind this is the original route for the entire Black Hills" A. Busse

From the article posted above it appears that the 1936 party climbed at least one of the Cathedral Spires before this route.

Joel

By Wilson On The Drums
From: Woodbury, MN
Aug 17, 2012
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b PG13

amazing summit! super easy route with only one hard-ish move getting off the chockstone. the rappel was pretty crummy considering all the vegetation and ledges, but still worth it. gave it the pg-13 b/c if you didn't get up into the groove and fell making the first few initial moves off the chockstone you'd be going for a little (big) trip into the gulley...