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Olmsted Canyon

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Age of Darkness T 
Creature from the Black Lagoon T 
Enemy Within T 
Grease Monkey T 
Hot Box T,TR 
Ivory Tower, Center T 
Ivory Tower, Left T 
Lock of Ages T 
Lord Caffeine T 
Opsrey Overhang, Regular Route T 
Thrill Is Gone, The T 
Tideline T 
Tits On A Bull T,TR 
Unsorted Routes:

Olmsted Canyon 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 37.81245, -119.48946 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 12,010
Administrators: M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Nick Stayner on Aug 9, 2008
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Beautiful little pond on the approach to Tideline.

Description 

An awesome crack arena with some good bouldering as well. Beautiful setting in a canyon that provides the illusion of solitude.


Getting There 

Park just past Olmstead Point at a dirt turnout near the mouth of the canyon. Hike about 10 minutes to the Lord Caffeine/Tideline area. These climbs are on the left side of the canyon as you're heading up.


Climbing Season


13 Total Routes


['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',9],['2 Stars',3],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',1],['5.8',1],['5.9',1],['5.10',7],['5.11',3],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Olmsted Canyon:
Opsrey Overhang, Regular Route   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 150'   
Ivory Tower, Left   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 60'   
Ivory Tower, Center   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   
Enemy Within   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   
Creature from the Black Lagoon   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   
Lord Caffeine   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
The Thrill Is Gone   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   
Tideline   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   
Browse More Classics in Olmsted Canyon

Featured Route For Olmsted Canyon
Hillary going for the foot traverse approach on Creature

Creature from the Black Lagoon 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b  CA : Yosemite National Park : ... : Olmsted Canyon
A novelty route mostly, traverse along a flaring crack about 4ft above the "black lagoon" for maybe 50 ft, and then head up a 40ft 5.9 hand crack. I've tried traversing with feet in the crack and doing the tipsy shuffle, or traversing with hands in the crack. It felt very different but about the same difficulty either way.See the awesome updated (4th ed.) Reid/Falkenstein guide for more info....[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Photos of Olmsted Canyon Slideshow Add Photo
Some left side routes.  Taken from where the forest spits you out onto the slab on approach. <br />From R to L: Grease Monkey, Age of Darkness, & Lock of Ages
BETA PHOTO: Some left side routes. Taken from where the fores...
Comments on Olmsted Canyon Add Comment
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By Greg Barnes
Sep 13, 2010

Just a very minor note - it's actually Olmsted Canyon, not Olmstead. The 1986 Reid/Falkenstein guide had that right, but every edition since has had most mentions spelled with an a (but always at least one spelled correctly).

en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Frederick_Law_Olmsted