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Old Yeller 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b R

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 170'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: Bradley White, Ryan Barber 10/2011
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 380
Submitted By: bradley white on Oct 24, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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this is the basic line...

Description 

Climb up rock to lay back flake or hike higher and skip this rock start is better. The lay back to go onto a mantle (crux) is the crux and protection was a sling on horn. Cold fingers traverse left on wide ledge to the corner. Climb up corner to a tree. First belay. Skip the details. Step away far left to lichen face from tree and go up towrds some plants. At plants good pro and move up direct left side to 60ft and has a challenging run out with 5.5 moves. reach quartz section and pin move up to small depression and good gear above it at base of dirt crack. Move far right awkward then face climb directly up to to exit to grass ledge and large block on right. Gear block? move up left on lichen wall of okay holds to face climb foot ramp diagonally sloping right corner (great pro) and go out after tree up the outside edge. Do an airy step right to new surface and face climb lower angled rock to the near summit of the buttress. No pro and up the ridge is a large pine on the left 15 feet more for belay. This is a mountaineers route. Damn serious one. Long run outs. A little safer after large toaster oven size rocks were found in the most dangerous way and had to be tossed off on the lead twice. This is the area where the longest naturally climbable rock is and didn't know until after doing it. Like the climbs of the nineteen thirties it has trees. Its a mountaineers classic and a bomb. Lots of variety in climbing and textures. The first section lay back area is the coolest. Good only for 30 feet and then the rock and things arise. It can be rappelled at the birch tree and flake slung.

Location 

Up right from 'Aurora Borealis'

Protection 

2 bolts to the start from Gifts to Attu, 1-4 tri cams, small amount of a full stopper range in sizes, small amount of # 2 camelots or friends up to #3.5, 1 pin in quartz section. Hike off.


Photos of Old Yeller Slideshow Add Photo
Does this work better for you bradley :)
BETA PHOTO: Does this work better for you bradley :)

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By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Oct 25, 2011
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

haha funny story...
while looking for a way up to bolt an anchor for a sport route i had in mind i rope soloed this route! i thought it was an FA cause it was so filthy until i found a freshly placed piton and i thought "this could only belong to one man!" and i was right :)
Bradley, are we the only ones with good taste in rock climbs around here haha...
anyway, i only climbed it to the piton then traversed right and rapped off to put up my route...
i found it to be quite fun and if it was clean (i brushed it up a little) others would too...
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Oct 25, 2011
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Nice, I was wondering who that was down there...
I also left a solid thread anchor 20ft to the left of your piton on a really nice big ledge... that might be a good spot to belay...
I wanted to keep climbing to the top of your route but after lugging all my bolting gear up that hike i wanted to get my route done... next time perhaps...
By Jeffrey LeCours
From: New Hampshire
Jul 20, 2012

"Lee I was below on the trail today watching you. Because of your route finding effort there's a bolted belay anchor up left of the tree at the top of corner somewhere. Finding climbs is where its at. I was perplexed about where to set up the belay for the second pitch and now that problem is solved. Maybe this climb will get some travelers on it now. The crescendo variation finish to this route is going left and up clean rock before or over the sloping corner instead. There might be a loose block to avoid midway through this finish. Anyone is welcome to scrubbing this route."

Comment by bradley white on October 25th, 2011 6:15 pm
By Jeffrey LeCours
From: New Hampshire
Jul 20, 2012

"Your photo is a different climb than we did, that shares only a short section of our route. I was going to do it next."

Comment by bradley white on December 2nd, 2011 2:12 pm