Mountain Project: Climbing Rumney

Climb up rock protrusion to lay back flake or hike higher and skip this start (better). After the lay back mantle (crux) and traverse left to corner. Climb up corner to tree and step far left to lichen face (the lichen face is 60ft and has a challenging run out with 5.5 moves). After face climbing the quartz section move right to an awkward mantle and the face climb to large block on right. Get past the block and face climb to diagonally sloping right corner (great pro) and go up the outside right side of it away from a tree. Do an airy step right and face climb low angle rock to the near summit of the buttress. Go up the ridge to a large pine on the left 15ft to belay. This is a mountaineers route. It was and still is damn serious. Large toaster oven size rocks were found in the most dangerous way and had to be tossed off on the lead twice. The route is much safer now. This is the area where the longest naturally climbable rock is. It would have been the way up chosen by the leading climbers of the nineteen thirties. Its a mountaineers classic but to the standards of today it could be rated as a bomb. The first section to the contemporary climbing standard is good for 30ft and can be rappeled at the birch tree and flake slung.

Location

Protection

2 bolts to the start from Gifts to Attu, 1-4 tri cams, small amount of a full stopper range in sizes, small amount of # 2 camelots or friends up to #3.5, 1 pin in quartz section. Hike off.

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By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Oct 25, 2011
rating: 5.6

haha funny story...
while looking for a way up to bolt an anchor for a sport route i had in mind i rope soloed this route! i thought it was an FA cause it was so filthy until i found a freshly placed piton and i thought "this could only belong to one man!" and i was right :)
Bradley, are we the only ones with good taste in rock climbs around here haha...
anyway, i only climbed it to the piton then traversed right and rapped off to put up my route...
i found it to be quite fun and if it was clean (i brushed it up a little) others would too...

By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Oct 25, 2011
rating: 5.6

Nice, I was wondering who that was down there...
I also left a solid thread anchor 20ft to the left of your piton on a really nice big ledge... that might be a good spot to belay...
I wanted to keep climbing to the top of your route but after lugging all my bolting gear up that hike i wanted to get my route done... next time perhaps...

By Jeffrey LeCours
From: New Hampshire
Jul 20, 2012

"Lee I was below on the trail today watching you. Because of your route finding effort there's a bolted belay anchor up left of the tree at the top of corner somewhere. Finding climbs is where its at. I was perplexed about where to set up the belay for the second pitch and now that problem is solved. Maybe this climb will get some travelers on it now. The crescendo variation finish to this route is going left and up clean rock before or over the sloping corner instead. There might be a loose block to avoid midway through this finish. Anyone is welcome to scrubbing this route."

Comment by bradley white on October 25th, 2011 6:15 pm

By Jeffrey LeCours
From: New Hampshire
Jul 20, 2012

"Your photo is a different climb than we did, that shares only a short section of our route. I was going to do it next."

Comment by bradley white on December 2nd, 2011 2:12 pm

Old Yeller

5.6 R

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