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Beacon Rock
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Old Warriors Never Die 
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Young Warriors 

Old Warriors Never Die 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6b PG13

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Jim Yodder 1990
Page Views: 293
Submitted By: peachy spohn on Sep 11, 2011
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Description 

This route needs a better anchor, yes. It needs one extra bolt, hence the current pg-13 grade. But, Old Warriors Never Dies offers the 5.12 climber the chance to get familiar with Beacon Rock and the movement you often find there. The moves are fun, you are often hugging the pillar, and balance is key. I just cleaned it yesterday, but it may need a little extra dusting. All in all, if it gets done more, it will be a great PDX test piece and is worth it! Sweet!


Location 

The bolted pillar just left of "Wrong Gull"


Protection 

5 bolts (one is questionable and will be replaced).
Also, there will hopefully be an anchor placed atop the pillar soon. As of now you must traverse left to webbing slung around a rock.



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By Healyje
Sep 14, 2011

Yeah, some of the lines are PG-13 and R - doesn't mean they need retro-bolts, though.

By peachy spohn
Sep 14, 2011

I completely agree J. I'm one for running it out and not destroying the history and style of a route. I was simply thinking of adding an anchor and replacing the last bolt (really in need of it) and in doing so hopefully getting people interested in climbing the route and out to Beacon. Of course I'll contact the 1st ascentionist too!

Cheers-

By Mr. Holmes
From: Cascade West
Oct 9, 2012

Hey Matt!

Just came across this post. If and when you (and Jim) think an upgrade is appropriate let me know. We have some hardware from ASCA for just this purpose. If your intersted.