Old Warriors Never Die 5.12b PG13
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.12b [details] |
| FA: | Jim Yodder 1990 |
| Submitted By: | peachy spohn on Sep 11, 2011 |
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Beacon Rock is only open to climbers from July 15th through February 2nd due to peregrine falcon nesting. MORE INFO >>>
From the Washington Park's Page Beacon Rock offers excellent opportunities for rock climbing except where it interferes with nesting raptors, primarily on the south face. The presence of the falcon nest requires that the south face be closed to technical rock activity February 1 to mid-July annually; open the rest of the year. The east face is closed year-round due to environmental sensitivity. Call the park at (509) 427-8265 for more information.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description This route needs a better anchor, yes. It needs one extra bolt, hence the current pg-13 grade. But, Old Warriors Never Dies offers the 5.12 climber the chance to get familiar with Beacon Rock and the movement you often find there. The moves are fun, you are often hugging the pillar, and balance is key. I just cleaned it yesterday, but it may need a little extra dusting. All in all, if it gets done more, it will be a great PDX test piece and is worth it! Sweet!
Location The bolted pillar just left of "Wrong Gull"
Protection 5 bolts (one is questionable and will be replaced). Also, there will hopefully be an anchor placed atop the pillar soon. As of now you must traverse left to webbing slung around a rock.
| Comments on Old Warriors Never Die |
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By Healyje Sep 14, 2011
| Yeah, some of the lines are PG-13 and R - doesn't mean they need retro-bolts, though. |
By peachy spohn Sep 14, 2011
| I completely agree J. I'm one for running it out and not destroying the history and style of a route. I was simply thinking of adding an anchor and replacing the last bolt (really in need of it) and in doing so hopefully getting people interested in climbing the route and out to Beacon. Of course I'll contact the 1st ascentionist too! Cheers- |
By Mr. Holmes From: Cascade West Oct 9, 2012
| Hey Matt! Just came across this post. If and when you (and Jim) think an upgrade is appropriate let me know. We have some hardware from ASCA for just this purpose. If your intersted. |
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