Old Town 5.7
| 4,766 page views
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.7+ [details] |
| FA: | please help |
| Submitted By: | Ladd Raine on Jul 24, 2007 |
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Marisa Fienup in the stunning dihedral of "Old Tow...
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Description Starts at a fun corner that requires an interesting high foot that will make you get into a fantastic layback that you'll stay in for the rest of this climb. make some fun moves until you mantle the ledge at the half-way point then protect high off the ledge and continue up the upper layback (crux) to the easy topout.
Matthew Fienup:
Truly classic laybacking and stemming at an accessible grade. Every bit as good as it looks.
Protection I use some med nuts, 2 #2BD camalots, and some mid range cams for pro. I think you could use all small stuff but with the #2s it makes protecting ledge fall a breeze.
Marisa Fienup, "Old Town"
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Nick finishing up Old Town
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BETA PHOTO: the start to Old Town
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following on the bottom of old town
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working up the upper crack
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BETA PHOTO: Starting out up Old Town on a nice (relative) Janu...
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Delicious corner
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By Matthew Fienup
Administrator
From: Ventura, CA
Jul 25, 2007
| For help locating the start of the route, click here |
By steitz
From: midcoast, maine
Feb 22, 2010
rating: 5.7
| A super fun climb that's easy to protect. Great for your first time leading, a 50m rope is all you need to reach the ground. The view of the ocean is priceless. |
By Derek Doucet
Jul 9, 2010
rating: 5.7
| Rock climbs get harder, and they get longer, but move for move, they don't get much better. Absolutely perfect stone, pleasant and interesting moves, great pro, a fantastic setting, and sustained at the grade. A flawless pitch of climbing. Climb this route! |
By Michael Buchanan
May 14, 2011
rating: 5.7
| Sweet route, crux is the first few moves, everything else is cruiser. If it were only longer! |
By Peter Lewis
From: Bridgton, Maine
Oct 7, 2011
rating: 5.8-
| Don't underestimate the first 20 feet--it's a little awkward and strenuous. Please take the time to protect the start well. After that, it's just cruising wonderfulness. |
By Anthony Codega
May 31, 2012
| I believe the FA of this wonderful climb goes to Jerry Cinnamon... |
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