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The Precipice
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Unsorted Routes:

Old Town 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: please help
Page Views: 8,049
Submitted By: Ladd on Jul 24, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (98)
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BETA PHOTO: Starting out up Old Town on a nice (relative) Janu...


Starts at a fun corner that requires an interesting high foot that will make you get into a fantastic layback that you'll stay in for the rest of this climb. make some fun moves until you mantle the ledge at the half-way point then protect high off the ledge and continue up the upper layback (crux) to the easy topout.

Matthew Fienup:

Truly classic laybacking and stemming at an accessible grade. Every bit as good as it looks.


I use some med nuts, 2 #2BD camalots, and some mid range cams for pro. I think you could use all small stuff but with the #2s it makes protecting ledge fall a breeze.

Photos of Old Town Slideshow Add Photo
Marisa Fienup in the stunning dihedral of "Ol...
Marisa Fienup in the stunning dihedral of "Ol...
Marisa Fienup, "Old Town"
Marisa Fienup, "Old Town"
Old town.
Old town.
Nick finishing up Old Town
Nick finishing up Old Town
working up the upper crack
working up the upper crack
the start to Old Town
BETA PHOTO: the start to Old Town
Delicious corner
Delicious corner
following on the bottom of old town
following on the bottom of old town
Old Town, Precipice, Acadia ME
Old Town, Precipice, Acadia ME

Comments on Old Town Add Comment
Show which comments
By Matthew Fienup
From: Ventura, CA
Jul 25, 2007

For help locating the start of the route, click here
By Jonathan Steitzer
From: midcoast, maine
Feb 22, 2010
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

A super fun climb that's easy to protect. Great for your first time leading, a 50m rope is all you need to reach the ground. The view of the ocean is priceless.
By Derek Doucet
Jul 9, 2010
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Rock climbs get harder, and they get longer, but move for move, they don't get much better. Absolutely perfect stone, pleasant and interesting moves, great pro, a fantastic setting, and sustained at the grade. A flawless pitch of climbing. Climb this route!
By Michael Buchanan
May 14, 2011
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Sweet route, crux is the first few moves, everything else is cruiser. If it were only longer!
By Peter Lewis
From: Bridgton, Maine
Oct 7, 2011
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c

Don't underestimate the first 20 feet--it's a little awkward and strenuous. Please take the time to protect the start well. After that, it's just cruising wonderfulness.
By Anthony Codega
May 31, 2012

I believe the FA of this wonderful climb goes to Jerry Cinnamon...
By gblauer
From: Wayne, PA
May 27, 2015

Odd, awkward start, leads to awesome fun climbing. The rock is amazing, the flakes are amazing, it's all good.
By Alissa Doherty
From: Boston, MA
Jul 10, 2015

I think that this is the best 5.7 I've done anywhere. It is a strikingly beautiful and looks like it would go at 5.10 but is delightfully moderate! It's an absolute must-do.

I watched many groups climb it over a few days that I spent at the Precipice and did note that less experienced followers tended to fall on the first move or two so a tight belay is necessary to keep them from clipping the ground.
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