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Old School Rock
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Old Stone Crab 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 135'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Jeff Baldwin
Page Views: 306
Submitted By: Perin Blanchard on Sep 30, 2010
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  • Located in the Lone Peak Wilderness Area MORE INFO >>>
  • Located in a National Forest Fee Area MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    Head up the first pitch of Old School: Start from a rough, natural belay ledge and follow the black-painted bolts up and right. Surmount a bulge or two and get to a foot-wide ledge.

    From the ledge, head left rather than right and continue up slabbier rock with pockets here and there. Come to a steeper bit and continue up on big edges to the anchors.


    Getting Down 

    This route is too long to rappel or lower with a 70m rope. Use an 80m (as did the FA), or trail a rope. Another likely safe way to get down (although I didn't try it) is to have a follower come up the route, and then rappel to the first pitch anchors of Old School (you'll see the Metolius rap anchors on the way up) and from those anchors to the ground.

    Dangerous! Dumb! Don't do this:
    However, I lived through the following: Rappel with a 70m rope to just below the third bolt. Clip in to the bolt with a sling and pull the rope (be very sure to knot the ends, and be careful when disengaging the rappel device the rope is under tension and could rebound out of reach). Downclimb to safer ground.


    Location 

    Located at the east (downhill) side of the buttress that forms the right side of the upper part of the gully containing Visionary Wall. Approach by either walking up the left side of the Visionary Wall gully near the left wall and then cutting across the gully, or continue along the stream bed and scramble up the next gully to the north.

    This is the right of the two bolt lines, and branches off to the left on the slabbier terrain above.


    Protection 

    16 bolts, single-ring anchors.



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