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Utah
> Wasatch Range
> Southern Wasatch
> American Fork C…
> Tank Canyon
> Old School Rock
Old Stone Crab
5.10a YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British
Avg: 2 from 4
votes
Routes in Old School Rock
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Ashes to Ashes S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Bang Bang S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Boo S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Dag Nasty Part Deux S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Diamond Dogs S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Old School S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Old Stone Crab S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Spot S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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| Type: | Sport, 135 ft (41 m) |
| FA: | Jeff Baldwin |
| Page Views: | 737 total · 4/month |
| Shared By: | Perin Blanchard on Sep 30, 2010 · Updates |
| Admins: | Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Located in the Lone Peak Wilderness Area
Details
The Lone Peak Wilderness boundary begins a short distance into Tank Canyon. Wilderness rules blm.gov/wo/st/en/info/regul… apply.
Access Issue: Located in a National Forest Fee Area
Details
See the Uinta-Wasatch-Cache National Forest Service fee page fs.fed.us/r4/uwc/passes/ for more information.
Description
Head up the first pitch of Old School: Start from a rough, natural belay ledge and follow the black-painted bolts up and right. Surmount a bulge or two and get to a foot-wide ledge.
From the ledge, head left rather than right and continue up slabbier rock with pockets here and there. Come to a steeper bit and continue up on big edges to the anchors.
From the ledge, head left rather than right and continue up slabbier rock with pockets here and there. Come to a steeper bit and continue up on big edges to the anchors.
Getting Down
This route is too long to rappel or lower with a 70m rope. Use an 80m (as did the FA), or trail a rope. Another confirmed safe way to get down is to have a follower come up the route, and then rappel to the first pitch anchors of Old School (you'll see the Metolius rap anchors on the way up) and from those anchors to the ground.
Dangerous! Dumb! Don't do this:
However, I lived through the following: Rappel with a 70m rope to just below the third bolt. Clip in to the bolt with a sling and pull the rope (be very sure to knot the ends, and be careful when disengaging the rappel device the rope is under tension and could rebound out of reach). Downclimb to safer ground.
Dangerous! Dumb! Don't do this:
However, I lived through the following: Rappel with a 70m rope to just below the third bolt. Clip in to the bolt with a sling and pull the rope (be very sure to knot the ends, and be careful when disengaging the rappel device the rope is under tension and could rebound out of reach). Downclimb to safer ground.
Location
Located at the east (downhill) side of the buttress that forms the right side of the upper part of the gully containing Visionary Wall. Approach by either walking up the left side of the Visionary Wall gully near the left wall and then cutting across the gully, or continue along the stream bed and scramble up the next gully to the north.
This is the right of the two bolt lines, and branches off to the left on the slabbier terrain above.
This is the right of the two bolt lines, and branches off to the left on the slabbier terrain above.
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