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Old Stagecoach Road

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Augustin's Flake T 
Cactus Karma T 
Forest's Face T 
Monkeywrenchin' Momma S 
No. 1 G S 
Piton Crack T 
Po'Pay's Revolt S 
Pockets S 
Prow , The S 
Stem It Black T 
Sunburned S,TR 

Old Stagecoach Road 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 6,300'
Location: 36.537, -105.7082 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 2,708
Administrators: Mike Howard, Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB, Marta Reece, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Mike Howard on Dec 14, 2006
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Archive Photo of the John Dunn Bridge around 1900 ...

Description 

The old westward bound stage crossing from the original John Dunn Bridge over the Rio Grande. Massive stone walls and old roadbed bring you to the base of the crag just upstream and northwest of the rafters' put-in for the Upper Box. Short (40 ft) crag with 5.5 to 5.11 trad and sport routes. Great Spring and Fall climbing with easy access (5 min approach). You can swim in the Rio if you are overheated or dip in the hotsprings if you're chilled.

See "Taos Rock Climbs & Boulders of Northern New Mexico" by Jay Foley, Sharp End Books, 2005. The only complete guide for the other climbs in this area.

The anchors for these climbs can be reached from the top. Follow the old road up left and scramble along the top (careful to not knock rock down on your party). Some are pretty easy to rig (the sport routes). Otherwise, look to sling trees at the top to reach them.


Getting There 

Same as for John's Wall but continue across the Rio Grande and turn North after the John Dunn bridge and park at the end of the road. A fisherman's trail heads north to cairned climbers trail onto the Old Stage Coach Road


11 Total Routes


['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',3],['2 Stars',4],['1 Star',4],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',0],['5.8',3],['5.9',2],['5.10',4],['5.11',1],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For Old Stagecoach Road

Piton Crack 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b  NM : Taos Area : ... : Old Stagecoach Road
Climb up to the rectangular slot, clip the pins and sort out how to bring your feet up in order to reach the next good horizontal hold. One can lieback part of this section, but climbers with good fingerlock skills can probably go straight-on. Easier from here to the top.I enjoyed this climb- it's my favorite on this wall.....[more]   Browse More Classics in NM

Photos of Old Stagecoach Road Slideshow Add Photo
Climbing in December
Climbing in December
A more recent photo of the view from the base of the Old Stagecoach Road looking South.  The parking area is seen on the right where rafters/kayakers put-in for the Lower Box section of the Rio Grande.
A more recent photo of the view from the base of t...
View down onto the Old Stagecoach crag right.  Shown Piton crack (shares anchor  with Mama), Augustin's Flake (anchor chains), Popay's (X=bolts and anchor), Forests (anchor) and Cactus Karma (anchor cains)
BETA PHOTO: View down onto the Old Stagecoach crag right. Sho...
View down onto the Old Stagecoach crag left end.  Bolted lines include (L-R) The Prow, Pockets, Mama, Popay's Revolt
BETA PHOTO: View down onto the Old Stagecoach crag left end. ...
Comments on Old Stagecoach Road Add Comment
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By Laura Fremgen
From: Taos, New Mexico
May 6, 2013

There's another route with chains left of The Prow, right of No. 1 G not listed on here...possibly a 5.9?

By Nickolas V
Sep 10, 2013

Watch out for desert bighorn sheep on top of this crag! My buddy and I came face to face with 3 of them up there this summer. Gave us a good startling moment, could have fallen off the crag if we had jumped a little more. To be fair though, I think we scared them as much as they did us. Just keep an eye out, they blend in amazingly well against the brown-red basalt.