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Old Sling Straightened 

YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 190'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Sharon Dogruel and Greg Swift
Page Views: 480
Submitted By: Jason Halladay on Dec 8, 2008

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BETA PHOTO: Old Sling Straightened is the red line in this pho...

Description 

Old Sling Straightened is mixed gear and bolts route established by Sharon and Greg a couple years ago on the right side of the Winter Wall. Story has it they were looking for a line they could climb over and over for years to come and liked the lower part of a route they believed to be Old Sling because they found an old sling in one of the cracks. But the upper parts were horribly loose and sketchy.
With that in mind they looked to the left and found some clean, short dihedrals leading to a clean panel of rock to finish up on. The dihedrals and final panel didn't protect well so they hand drilled four protection bolts on the upper part of the wall.

Start as for Protein Supplement following a left-angling seam on easy terrain towards a big, black roof using gear for pro. Pull the roof and cruise the low angle gully to another small, wide crack roof. Head for two, short, bolt-protected dihedrals above followed by an all-too-short finger crack section up to the final, steep headwall. To this point the climbing is fun and moderate. Clip two bolts on the final headwall, the 5.10 crux, up to the top. A single anchor bolt will be found at the top.

Location 

The route is at the far right side of the Winter Wall sharing a start with Protein Supplement. It's a full 60m. You can break the route into two pitches with a belay below the two, short dihedrals to minimize rope drag/weight.

Protection 

Single rack of BD .3 to #3 cams. Wires could be useful but not necessary. 4 protection bolts along the way and a single anchor bolt at the top along with a big rock to sling serve as the anchor. Walk off to the north and swing back down to your packs and tasty peanut butter and honey sandwich.


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By Chris Wenker
From: Santa Fe
Dec 8, 2008

Mystery solved! Good job Jason. Last time I was over there, I scoped out just the line that you described, thinking it was the best way to get to those high bolts. But it wasn't something I was gonna try myself.... (having not yet quite recovered from my exploration of the adjacent bogus choss route called "The Trough", which may be the same as the "horribly loose and sketchy" stuff you mentioned)....

I think I have an unannotated version of the image, if you want to retrace the line on something that doesn't have all my goofy writing on it. Let me know if you want it. (and also, my yellow bolt X's are most certainly not accurately placed)
By Karl Kiser
Mar 6, 2009

The Old Sling Name was first used (something for the guidebook published electronically by Bradshaw) for the short flake crack to the right of the bolted Roid Boys. The Old Sling Straightened is a separate climb uphill from the named route.
By Daniel Trugman
From: Los Alamos, NM / Stanford, CA
Mar 31, 2010
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Fun route. Definitely worth doing if you've done the classics on the Winter Wall and are looking for something new.

I did it in two pitches, setting the first belay just below the first bolt. I used that bolt to back up my anchor (which seemed solid, but better safe than sorry on the Winter Wall).

The crux is well protected by tightly spaced bolts, but is pretty tricky. All the holds seemed to face the wrong way!