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Old School Rock

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Bang Bang 
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Old School 
Old Stone Crab 
Unknown name 

Old School Rock 

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Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Perin Blanchard on Sep 10, 2009
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  • Located in the Lone Peak Wilderness Area MORE INFO >>>
  • Located in a National Forest Fee Area MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    Old School Rock is a limestone buttress that separates two steep, loose gullies. The buttress is home to a handful of bolted lines including a rarity in American Fork Canyon: a multi-pitch route.

    The rock is steep, solid, and mostly lacks the pockets for which American Fork is known. Instead, the climbing is devious face climbing on small edges with the occasional jug. Most of the lines have a ledge or two allowing decent rests.

    Getting There 

    Walk up Tank Canyon and follow the trail on the east (right) of the streambed. The trail will cross the streambed heading north and then immediately turn east (right). Continue following the trail through a grove of evergreens and then step over some tree roots and a short steep section to walk to the left of the stream.

    The trail (and stream) turns north again (left); follow the trail past two gullies on the left. Just before the third gully a bolted route will appear on a limestone outcropping that almost reaches to the streambed. This is the first route on Visionary Wall.

    For the three routes on the south side of the buttress, head up the gully along the base of Visionary Wall and cross the steep, loose gully when you are more-or-less level with the routes.

    For the rest of the routes continue another hundred feet or so and head up along the south side of the next rock outcropping that almost reaches the streambed.

    About a 12-minute walk.

    Route List 

    South side of buttress, left-to-right (i.e., starting uphill):

    1. Spot 5.11b
    2. Boo Direct 5.12a/b (shares start and anchors with Boo)
    3. Boo 5.11c

    East side of buttress:

    4. Dag Nasty Part Deux 5.9
    5. Old Stone Crab 5.10a (one long pitch, shares most of Old School's first pitch).
    6. Old School 5.10b (two pitches, starts on east face)

    North side of buttress (still left-to-right):

    7. Diamond Dogs 5.11d
    8. Bang Bang 5.11c

    North side of gully north of buttress (south-facing):

    9. Unknown name 5.11b

    8 Total Routes

    ['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',3],['2 Stars',4],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]

    The Classics

    Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Old School Rock:
    Dag Nasty Part Deux   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 125'   
    Old School   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b     Sport, 2 pitches, 150'   
    Browse More Classics in Old School Rock

    Featured Route For Old School Rock
    Upper part of <a href='/v/dag-nasty-part-deux/106908335'>Dag Nasty Part Deux</a>.

    Dag Nasty Part Deux 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a  UT : Wasatch Range : ... : Old School Rock
    70m rope requiredStart up the left of the two bolt lines and head up blocky, lower-angle terrain past an initial bulge and then into a steeper-than-it-appears headwall above. Clear the headwall and head up some slabby limestone with cool chert dikes, interesting pockets and edges, and then up over a roof in ligher-colored rock just before the anchors. Note that the bolt just over the last roof is difficult to see from below.Rappelling (there are some rough edges) with a 70m rope will ju...[more]   Browse More Classics in UT

    News and Events For Old School Rock
    Comments on Old School Rock Add Comment
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    By apross
    Aug 1, 2009

    The unnamed #10 rte is a 12a called Inky. Stick clip the first bolt, a good bouldery rte. 2/3 stars

    The 2 rtes at the top of the gully on the right are left to right.

    Spot 11a/b. Some nice climbing on good rock, crux low down. 2 stars

    Boo 11c. If you finish up the arete. 3 stars
    Boo direct 12a/b. If you go straight up the face to the anchor. 2 stars