Old School Executioner 5.12+
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| Type: | Trad, 100 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.12+ [details] |
| FA: | EFR, Geir Hundal, Marcy Makarewicz, '11 |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Submitted By: | 1Eric Rhicard on Apr 18, 2011 |
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Geir Hundal attempting to redpoint.
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Description Geir lead this climb over three days hanging a lot aiding a little and hooking to drill 3 bolts before joining Stiletto. After working on it a bit we decided to put anchors at 100 feet where the first bolt was placed as we felt it would make a fantastic 100% trad route at the grade. The last thirty feet between the anchors and Stiletto are a lot harder and will make a great extension when someone decides to put the effort into climbing it.
This is a great crack climb to some fun hard face climbing with good rock and bomber if not small gear. A 0 TCU is hard to place but critical for protecting the last 15 ft. We both proved that a 0 TCU will handle 25 footers.
Location On the N. face of the Tombstone on the overhanging orange face.
Protection 0 TCU to blue camalot. Double or triple up on finger sized to fat finger size. The crack takes stoppers well too and we used a number of them.
Testing Geir's gear. Photo: G. Hundal
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about a third of the way up
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Andy nearing the top of the climb.
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About halfway up the route
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a hardworking cam used to protect the crux. time ...
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| Comments on Old School Executioner |
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By Geir
From: Tucson, AZ
Apr 18, 2011
rating: 5.12c
| This stellar climb ranks among the most difficult free climbs in Cochise Stonghold. It has fists, hands, and killer finger locks for most of the way with a few spicy face moves at the top.
Marcy was an exceptionally good sport in the cold, windy weather as she caught dozens of falls while I worked on the moves and gear. Eric took a 30 footer figuring out the crux and we both took 25 footers on to a 0 TCU protecting the final hard sequence. Eric sent today (4/17/11) in a superb effort. Congrats!!
This route also serves as a reminder that great routes can be established ground up. It is not necessary to toprope routes into submission and rap bolt them into oblivion, even if they are near or at your limit. Ground-up development is far more challenging and therefore rewarding; it is also better aligned with the staunch traditional ethic embraced by the majority of Stronghold FAs. |
By Christian
From: Tucson, Az
Apr 18, 2011
| Nice work guys! 4/19 is tomorrow, although I'm pretty sure EFR could send routes in the past, present and future :-) |
By Hendrixson
From: Tucson, AZ
Apr 18, 2011
| Looks awesome! Nice work Geir, Marcy, Eric, et al. |
By Geir
From: Tucson, AZ
Apr 19, 2011
rating: 5.12c
| Hahaha Christian! Thanks for catching the typo. I've proofread my post now. :) |
By Marcy
From: Tempe/Tuscon, AZ
Apr 30, 2012
| And the hard-earned red-point goes to Geir today! He meticulously worked the route ground up, figured out the beta and gear, and put everything together in an amazing send today. I'm sure anyone over on the west side of the Stronghold likely heard him celebrating. |
By Hendrixson
From: Tucson, AZ
Apr 30, 2012
| Nice Geir! That is awesome on so many levels. |
By 1Eric Rhicard
May 1, 2012
| Nice job Geir. Love the motivated positive attiude you brought to the crag each time. You earned it so enjoy the success. |
By Geir
From: Tucson, AZ
May 2, 2012
rating: 5.12c
| Thanks everyone, you all have made this one of my favorite climbs. Gotta love the climbing at the Tombstone. |
By Daryl Allan
From: Sierra Vista, AZ
May 10, 2012
| Bold send Geir,.. Awesome!! Wish I could have seen it. d |
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