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Old Sandstone

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
"The Nipple" 
Africa Crack 
Alligator Wall 
American Beauty Crack 
Baker Street 
Broken Foot 
Chez's Chimney 
Chez's Chimney variation 
Climber's Arrogance 
Curving Crack 
Dancing Madly Backwards 
Deceptive 
Dirty Little Secret 
Everleigh Club Crack 
Freaky Face 
Gargantua 
Girls Named Sue 
Half Crack 
Has Been 
High Life, The 
Mammalary Magic 
One-Upper 
Out There 
Pacific Ocean Wall 
Ptooey 
Sepsen Wall 
Seven Seas 
Sherlocked 
Swillbillies 
Tarantula 
Team Arturo 
Uberschmidt 
Wave Mechanics 
Wobbly Dihedral 

Old Sandstone 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 1,127'
Location: 43.4137, -89.6863 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 48,566
Administrators: Burt Lindquist, Doug Hemken, Chris treggE, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Tom Anderson-Brown on Feb 25, 2002
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BETA PHOTO: The first of many classics at the Sandstone.

Description 

The Old Sandstone formation is an otherworldly crag that lies far to the east of the quartzite cliffs we're all used to climbing on at Devil's Lake. The rock here has round edges, embedded pebbles (of quartzite, of course), blank slabs, curved cracks, and other wonders. The cliff is about 65 feet high at its loftiest point, and it contains a number of excellent climbs.


Getting There 

To access the Old Sandstone formation drive 1.25 miles east of the CCC parking lot, nearly to Highway 113. After driving this distance you will see the backside of a 35 MPH speed limit sign on the left (north) side of the road. Just before this sign there is a dirt pull-off on the right (south) side of the road that accomodates 4-5 cars. Park here.

The Rozno's Meadow/Ice Age Trail heads out into the meadow from this lot. Farther up the other side of the road toward Devils Lake the hiking trail head back into the woods.

Across the road and slightly east, find a less obvious trail cutting into the woods near the speed limit sign. Hike up the forested slope for about 15 minutes and when the slope starts to flatten you will see to your right the sandstone cliff that is the "Old Sandstone" formation.


34 Total Routes


['4 Stars',4],['3 Stars',20],['2 Stars',7],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',4],['5.7',4],['5.8',3],['5.9',4],['5.10',10],['5.11',4],['5.12',3],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',2],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Old Sandstone:
Chez's Chimney   5.4 4a 12 IV VD 3c     Trad, TR   
Swillbillies   5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b     Trad, 45'   
Everleigh Club Crack   5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 30'   
American Beauty Crack   5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c     Trad, TR   
Curving Crack   5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c     Trad, TR   
Ptooey   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Trad, 40'   
Wobbly Dihedral   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   
Out There   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a R     TR, 1 pitch   
Alligator Wall   5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80'   
Mammalary Magic   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a R     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'   
Dancing Madly Backwards   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b PG13     Trad, TR, 1 pitch   
Gargantua   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b     Trad, TR   
Tarantula   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b     Trad, 60'   
Has Been   5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b PG13     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 45'   
Freaky Face   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50'   
Baker Street   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b     TR, 1 pitch, 60'   
The High Life   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c     TR   
Seven Seas   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c     TR, 40'   
Pacific Ocean Wall   5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a     TR   
Uberschmidt   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a     TR, 1 pitch, 50'   
Browse More Classics in Old Sandstone

Featured Route For Old Sandstone
Rhoads contemplating what to do next!?!

Uberschmidt 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a  WI : Devil's Lake : ... : Old Sandstone
Uberschmidt is the route immediately left of Tarantula and can be identified by a large roof one third of the way up. The climb breaches the center of the roof.Though intimidating from the ground, Uberschmidt climbs very well, as a bouldery, cut-your-feet sequence sees you over the roof. The climbing on the upper face eases considerably. Note: While pulling the roof, the right wall is definitely off. Using it makes this climb about 5.11.Much easier and more enjoyable (in my opinion) than the nig...[more]   Browse More Classics in WI

Photos of Old Sandstone Slideshow Add Photo
More rock down the way past Everleigh Club.
BETA PHOTO: More rock down the way past Everleigh Club.
Failed onsight attempt on an unidentified (as of yet) climb at Old Sandstone. August '03
BETA PHOTO: Failed onsight attempt on an unidentified (as of y...
Some rock past Everleigh Club. I think this one has a name?
BETA PHOTO: Some rock past Everleigh Club. I think this one ha...
More rock past Everleigh Club.
BETA PHOTO: More rock past Everleigh Club.
Comments on Old Sandstone Add Comment
Show which comments
By Rick Mulhern
Mar 31, 2009

Is the "Old Sandstone" area open in 2009?

By James M Schroeder
From: Sauk County, WI
Mar 31, 2009

I have not heard of any new closures, and as such I would assume it continues to remain open.