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The Old Sandstone formation is an otherworldly crag that lies far to the east of the quartzite cliffs we're all used to climbing on at Devil's Lake. The rock here has round edges, embedded pebbles (of quartzite, of course), blank slabs, curved cracks, and other wonders. The cliff is about 65 feet high at its loftiest point, and it contains a number of excellent climbs.
To access the Old Sandstone formation drive 1.25 miles east of the CCC parking lot, nearly to Highway 113. After driving this distance you will see the backside of a 35 MPH speed limit sign on the left (north) side of the road. Just before this sign there is a dirt pull-off on the right (south) side of the road that accomodates 4-5 cars. Park here.
34 Total Routes
Browse More Classics in Old Sandstone
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Old Sandstone:
Chez's Chimney 5.4 4a 12 IV VD 3c Trad, TR
Swillbillies 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b Trad, 45'
Everleigh Club Crack 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b Trad, 1 pitch, 30'
American Beauty Crack 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c Trad, TR
Curving Crack 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c Trad, TR
Ptooey 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a Trad, 40'
Wobbly Dihedral 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Out There 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a R TR, 1 pitch
Alligator Wall 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80'
Mammalary Magic 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a R Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'
Dancing Madly Backwards 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b PG13 Trad, TR, 1 pitch
Gargantua 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b Trad, TR
Tarantula 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b Trad, 60'
Has Been 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b PG13 Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 45'
Freaky Face 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50'
Baker Street 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b TR, 1 pitch, 60'
The High Life 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c TR
Seven Seas 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c TR, 40'
Pacific Ocean Wall 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a TR
Uberschmidt 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a TR, 1 pitch, 50'
Featured Route For Old Sandstone
Uberschmidt 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a WI : Devil's Lake : ... : Old Sandstone
Uberschmidt is the route immediately left of Tarantula and can be identified by a large roof one third of the way up. The climb breaches the center of the roof.Though intimidating from the ground, Uberschmidt climbs very well, as a bouldery, cut-your-feet sequence sees you over the roof. The climbing on the upper face eases considerably. Note: While pulling the roof, the right wall is definitely off. Using it makes this climb about 5.11.Much easier and more enjoyable (in my opinion) than the nig...[more] Browse More Classics in WI
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