Old Route 5.3
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| Type: | Trad, 3 pitches, 330 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.3 [details] |
| FA: | George Austin, Fritz Weissner |
| Submitted By: | Mike McLean on Jul 4, 2010 |
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BETA PHOTO: Looking up from the base of pitch 1
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Description Pitch 1: 100' - Follow the nice chimney. Exit right at the last chockstone and belay from a tree (choose wisely as there are many dead trees up there)
PItch 2: 70' - Up and to the left of the black streaks
Pitch 3: 150'
Descent: With rope stretch, a 60 metre rap from the top of pitch 2 will bring you to the ground (don't forget those knots). On a double rope rap, you'll NEED to rap down through the chimney if you're going to make it.
See the excellent Adirondack Rock guide for full details and topo.
Protection Standard rack. Tree anchors.
From the top of pitch 1
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JF leading P1
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By ChooChoo
From: Albany, NY
Sep 5, 2011
| Climbed the first pitch of the Old Route over Labor Day weekend, right after Hurricane Irene, which closed much of the High Peaks including Chapel Pond.
Hurricane Crag was deserted. Not one other party. High 70s, slight breeze. With my 12 yr old son, John.
Forgot my nut tool and left a #7 Metolius Stopper. :(
Good protection all the way. Solid 5.4.
| Looking down from the belay of the first pitch.
Submitted By: ChooChoo on Sep 5, 2011
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By Kurtz
Sep 10, 2012
| P1 is great fun! Fritz sure can pick 'em. If you're over 6 ft tall expect a bit of a squeeze in places. Also, there's some loose rock (assuming I didn't knock it all down) on the right-side wall about 1/3 of the way up. |
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