Your appreciation for this route will be directly related to your appreciation for thin slab. I personally liked it. It is also the hardest of the 5.8s on this wall, and is perhaps harder than the right-hand start of Crack Tack.
Go to the Blob Slab, the light-colored slab at the left-hand side of the base of the right hand 'half' of Blob Rock. Walk down to pass one trees and stop at a block of rock at the base of this, the higher tree. Climb up to a left-leaning flake, place a few good nuts and then head up and right to another crack/seam. From this crack/seam, place a few more nuts or little tricams, then head up and slightly right towards a bolt. When you are about 6' left of the bolt and 3' down from it, there is an opportunity to traverse over below and then up to clip it. This does not appear to be part of the original route, but hey, you can traverse back and go from there. Head up the slab and as the angle eases off, there are a few more placements to be had for nuts and small tricams. Craftiness might help getting good pro. As on any S-rated route, be careful.
Again, it's not so bad. There are several nut placements in the features shown in Rossiter's topos (which are pretty good), and the bolt in the middle of the face can be reached from the route with a little worming around. It is a good, new bolt. Take a good rack of small wires up to a #8 BD, and a few small tricams, which I placed down low.
An inopportune fall would likely result in an injury, particularly if gear failed. This seems unlikely for a competent leader, however. It would not likely end your climbing career, as you'd be more cheese-grated than splatted. It is easily TR's from the 2 bolt-and-chain anchors above the route, which are accessed most easily from the route "Left Roof" which I'd call 5.7, S-.
|By Rodger Raubach|
Mar 12, 2011
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
The harder variation goes over a bulge to the left. I was able to get some ?able pro with tiny wired stoppers/RPs. I didn't have any cams BITD when I led this, but there's an old pin scar that would take a smaller (0.75"-1.0") camming device. I love this kind of face/slab climbing in spite of runouts!
|By Eric Klammer|
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 4, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Not exactly sure which route I was on, but I started below the roof higher up and headed directly for it. Small good cam 12' up then nothing that would hold a fall until I reached a good horizontal crack below the roof about 30-35' up. Not hard climbing, but not something I would have wanted to fall on. Gear bomber after that to the top and the climbing eased off greatly in difficulty.