|The Black Wall
This route was climbed as part of a near miss on Cary Granite. Maurice's high point the lip of the roof and reached the sharp-edged, diagonal crack. But we did discover that doing the route labled 'A' on the topo was really nice.
Do the first pitch of Good Evans, 5.10+ route crux. Steel nuts protect thin moves using black xenoliths and the seam. This has excellent rock quality. Maybe it is only 5.8, A0 if you aid the short crux.
Do the second pitch of Cary Granite; 5.10 fingers-liebacking on beautiful, polished rock. Pass the point where Cary Granite takes a right. End at the single-bolt & double pin rap anchor. Shown as red dots on the topo-image.
Maurice and I added in an extra pitch, and some 5.11-, by deviating onto Cary Granite.
The final pitch, 5.4, starts wide, even takes smaller gear, and is 5.8 only when wet. Pass the two bolt rap station, ignore the tempting ledges, and stretch it to the top, 45 meters. The last move is also noted as 5.8 on the old topo, that's when wet. Nice 5.3 finish to the chains. A large stoppper and small sling thread help back up a more comfortable sitting belay, instead of hanging off the chains.
See the map photo.
Bring a standard Eldo Rack with bit of Valley too?! Yeah, I have no clue.
BETA PHOTO: There is a belay marked half-way up the first pitc...
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