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Old Quarry Walls

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A B-Boy's Alpha S 
Bloodstain, The S 
Crackrock Corner S 
DesparÍte†† S 
Devil's Cut S 
Evil Beauty (Closed Proj) S 
Fiendish Following S 
Golden Ghetto, The S 
People's Rock, The S 
Run For Cover S 
Scifentology S 
Slightly Removed S 
Tasmanian Pain Coaster S 
Tax Evasion Haven S 
Traxamillion S 
Tree of Life, The S 
Winning and Losing S,TR 

Old Quarry Walls  


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Location: 41.33236, -72.95851 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 5,310
Administrators: Morgan Patterson, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Morgan Patterson on Nov 25, 2013  with updates from JIncillo
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Description 

This area was mostly used as a homeless camp but that could be changing... Behind the homeless camp, through some razor sharp thorns and a behind a wall of poison ivy (clearly from the Jurassic Period), lies the remnants of a quarry operation on the South End.

The Old Quarry Walls at West Rock is the most up and coming sport crag in CT. This area was until recently used as a homeless camp, overrun with Poison Ivy and thorns, but thanks to a dedicated few it has been cleaned up. Countless hours have been spent removing poison ivy vines and trundling loose death blocks. While most the walls are shorter, they are varied with more vertical and overhanging sections then the Ballfield Slabs and offers some great hard climbing with lots more potential at the small urban crag.

Use caution however when climbing here as this is a new area still under development and there is still a lot of choss. Also note that on specific routes bolt spacing can be thin, these routes have been designated as R rated.

The best, most solid lines are on the far left wall including Tree of Life and People's Rock. This portion of the wall is in the sun the least throughout the day. The middle, and tallest section of the wall is the most dangerous with the most loose rock. There are no established lines here (yet). The obvious prominent arete is Desparate with a few lines in that area including Devil's cut. The far right developed part of the wall is the Crackrock corner which is home to the first bolted lines in the quarry, back when you had to wash everything you brought with you for fear of poison Ivy contaminating everything.

Getting There 

Instead of hiking up from the ball field and taking the second switchback back left along the base of the main slabs, continue hiking straight along the trail about 30 ft. Then head up over a small berm and into the homeless camp. Continue straight back from here to the walls. One can also follow the trail to the top and scramble to the top of the climbs and setup TR's.

Climbing Season



Weather station 2.7 miles from here

17 Total Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',9],['2 Stars',6],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',1],['5.9',3],['5.10',2],['5.11',5],['5.12',5],['5.13',1],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Old Quarry Walls:
Tax Evasion Haven   5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
Crackrock Corner   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
Devil's Cut   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R     Sport, 80'   
The People's Rock   5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 55'   
The Tree of Life   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
Winning and Losing   5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 45'   
Browse More Classics in Old Quarry Walls

Featured Route For Old Quarry Walls
Elliot working the new route a day before sending ...

DesparÍte†† 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a  CT : Western Coastal Slope : ... : Old Quarry Walls
Climbs the obvious, orange, outrageous serrated, stepped arÍte in the middle of the cliff on incredibly solid orange streaked stone. A New England classic close in quality or on par with other New England classic arÍtes such as†of Edge of The World on Cathedral Ledge or Predator at Rumney. Start up the first section of Devils Cut then launch left onto the arÍte with bear hug and compression moves then continue up the arÍte†. Its DesparÍte! A more direct start up the arÍte will push this into...[more]   Browse More Classics in CT

Photos of Old Quarry Walls Slideshow Add Photo
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Myself just before bathing in poison ivy...
Myself just before bathing in poison ivy...

Comments on Old Quarry Walls Add Comment
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By JIncillo
Mar 23, 2015
CONDITION REPORT 
Walls are dry.
By John K. Parejko
From: New Haven, CT
4 days ago
CONDITION REPORT 
Did a little trimming of the hike in: no more brambles to get caught on.
By Echoinfi
Oct 13, 2014
Great little zone. Much more potential here for sure. I took out three garbage bags of trash today and it looks great. Definitely one of those places where more climbers visiting will make it better.
By czd
Nov 9, 2014
These routes all look great. Good addition to New Haven sport climbing.
By Morgan Patterson
Administrator
Mar 17, 2015
nope... but im sure there's some dry stuff esp the aretes.
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