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Rock Island II
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Candelaria's Crack 
Old Practice Aid Climb 
Two Move Groove 

Old Practice Aid Climb 

C2

   
Type: Trad, TR, Aid, 1 pitch, 30'
Consensus: C2 [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 775
Submitted By: Dan Mottinger on May 22, 2005
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BETA PHOTO: A photo of gear in place on the Old Practice Aid C...

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Description 

This is a short aid climb that goes up the roof to climbers left on Candelaria's Crack. It is found by the single quarter inch bolt halfway up the roof. I aided it as a toprope and would think there could be potential ground fall if led without placing pins/bolts. Avoid the crack/corner to the left and go straight to the bolt and up and over. There was a solid #2 stopper placement (not used to saying that) in a crack one move below the bolt. The rest of the placements (just 3-4 besides the bolt) utilized two different sized cam hooks that might have taken solid lost arrows or knifeblades (as evidenced by some scarring) but this didn't seem like the place to be pounding pins to me. For an anchor, there is a large boulder that can be wrapped about 100' up the hillside above.


Protection 

Small pro--RPs, micro cams and some cam hooks



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By James Beissel
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 4, 2008

This can be and should be climbed clean. A standard cam hook does the trick at the lip.