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Old New Place

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
4-Star Arete 
Bee Sting 
Berserker 
Crucifriction 
Direct Start to Bee Sting 
Direct Start to Route 10 
God Route (aka Mike's Route) 
Gulf Stream 
High Roof Left 
High Roof Right 
Jet Stream 
Momentum 
Rattlesnake Crack (aka Sidewinder) 
Route 10 
Route 16 
Route 17 
Route 19 
Route 20 
Route 7 
Sinewave (aka S Crack) 
Songs of Love 
Tetherball 
Total Abstinence 

Old New Place 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 6,400'
Lat, Long: 35.81856, -106.18779 Map Incorrect?
Page Views: 6,083
Administrators: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB, Marta Reece, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Jason Halladay on Sep 27, 2007
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What's New
  Print a Mini-Guide with routes

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BETA PHOTO: Old New Place route guide. (I couldn't fit the rou...

Description 

The Old New Place is an east-facing basalt wall about 60 feet in height that offers many great crack lines for gear-protected leading or top roping. There are now bolted anchors here as a result of many of the cliff-top trees, that were traditionally used here as anchors, dying. Additionally, blocks and cracks near the cliff edge can be use to establish gear anchors.
The ONP doesn't see a lot of traffic but there are some wonderful crack lines to be climbed here.
Like all the areas in White Rock canyon, placement of new bolts is strongly discouraged as per a long-standing agreement of local climbers. The Los Alamos Mountaineers maintain a copy of the original agreement (1989) along with the amended agreement (2004) that allows for bolted anchors but still discourages new bolted lines.


Getting There 

From NM4, turn south on Rover Blvd. Turn left on the first street on your left, Meadow Lane. Stay on Meadow Lane for 1.3 miles and park near 719 Meadow Lane. Please respect the homeowners and don't block mailboxes or driveways. A concrete public access trail heads down between 719 and 721 Meadow Lane. You'll know you're on the correct trail if two large, seemingly nasty, Golden Retriever dogs are barking at you. At the end of the concrete veer slightly left and continue straight towards the cliffs following a good climber's trail down off the top of the cliff. As you start to descend off the cliff top, the Old New Place will be visible as the large cliff face to your left. Descend about 30 feet on the climber's trail and head left along the base of the cliff.


23 Total Routes


['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',12],['2 Stars',9],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',4],['5.10',6],['5.11',8],['5.12',4],['5.13',1],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Old New Place:
Bee Sting   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 65'   
High Roof Left   5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'   
Route 10   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 70'   
High Roof Right   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'   
God Route (aka Mike's Route)   5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80'   
Berserker   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'   
Rattlesnake Crack (aka Sidewinder)   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 70'   
Sinewave (aka S Crack)   5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 6a     Trad, TR, 60'   
Browse More Classics in Old New Place

Featured Route For Old New Place
Laybacking through the wide crack crux. June 2010.

Berserker 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c  NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : ... : Old New Place
Berserker is a burly roof crack at White Rock, and there aren't too many like this, so it's worth checking out, if that's your sort of thing.Lieback the excellent thin-hands crack in the left-facing corner to a stance below a roof. This is one of the best liebacking corners in White Rock. The roof is offwidth, confusing, strenuous, and harder than it looks (but easier than it's nominally rated- 5.11c/d), and protects well with a #4 camalot. After the roof, the climbing is much eas...[more]   Browse More Classics in NM

Photos of Old New Place Slideshow Add Photo
 <br />Marino Gonzales free soloing next to a perfectly functional top rope(in between routes #3 and #4 on Halladay's photo topo.)

Marino Gonzales free soloing next to a perfectly ...
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By Ed Santiago
Dec 1, 2013

Found: reading glasses near base of Bee Sting. PM to claim them.