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BETA PHOTO: Alex Sizes Up the Old Man
This route ascends the huge, prominent left-facing corner near the south end of South Fin.
Start up the clean dihedral on thin fingers until you can get a stance for pro. Continue up through broken blocks, staying generally in the corner, until you come right under the large roof near the top.
While there are a couple of finishes, the most common is to move right under roof and up around corner. Continue up 15 feet to anchors.
While easily protected, this route is long and quite sustained, save for a couple good rests. It is also extremely fun! Some of the best crack moves around.
To descend, move back about ten feet to chains for Male Menopause, and rap down west face of South Fin back to start.
Standard Rack, Chain Anchors
Working the clean corner.
Finishing up the corner.
Getting into the upper part.
midway up on TR
Highlining the old man gap!
Me sending the line, p...
|By Wes Turner|
Jun 14, 2004
great climb.. the crux is really the first 15-20' but I have seen some people get sketched out stepping out onto the face from the roof. Pay attention to your runners and make sure you long sling under the roof!
Nov 26, 2006
Use the chains on the left side at the top of the route. I didn't see them and used another set of chains 15 feet to the right, but there was too much drag.
|By Phil Persson|
From: Denver, Colorado
Jan 23, 2008
Did this route on 1-19-08; great climb, for me the crux was stepping out from under the lower roof into the crack, as well as a few tricky face moved down low. Overall though i thought it took very good pro and followed a great line; very fun long climb. One of the best 5.9's I've climbed for sure.
|By Jon Ruland|
From: Tucson, AZ
May 1, 2008
best freakin 9 i've ever done.
|By randy baum|
From: Minneapolis, MN
Jan 4, 2010
the exposure after you pull the roof will put a smile on any climber's face.
the views of hawkbill spire from the belay are great.
From: Tucson, Az
Nov 2, 2011
Move(s) right off the deck felt like awkward, balancy 10- at least. Can be protected w a microcam.
Rest of the route is 5.9 although you can make it harder if you don't find the right stems.
|By Trad Nanny|
Dec 11, 2012
Totally classic, hardest moves are unprotected right off the deck. Nail those and cruise the rest of the way. A rap down the N face with a 70m takes you back to the packs easily.
|By Tim Wolfe|
From: Salt Lake City, UT
May 19, 2013
Straight up, slightly right at the first bulge and turning the high roof to the right up high makes for a great line. The crux is the first move - tiny piece of brass protects it well. As stated above, there are now two chains and you can rap straight down to your packs.