Old Man of Hoy
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I have climbed this twice ,the first time leading a group of four antique British climbers in their 50's and 60's ,two were grand parents.The following photo's were with my son Andy who flew in from Salt Lake City, Utah.If you like the desert Towers of Utah this is a must do! The most enjoyment of this climb is from the situations and the wild beauty of the Scottish Islands.The climb described is the original route . There are several more difficult routes to its top. Description :- See Topo photo.P1) Easy climbing to large ledge 5.5 P2)Climb down a few feet then across to the foot of a fine crack a couple of strenuous moves to belay.5.9.P3) Follow open corner (In Spring pucking Femur sea birds in this section )5.6.P4)Super climbing up the open book to a fine summit.5.6.Descent Rap the route.Be careful!
Hoy Island ,Orkney Islands ,Scotland
Normal rack cams and stoppers Two 60m ropes is good.
ARRIVING AT THE TOWN OF SKAGNESS ON THE MAIN ORKN...
Passing the small Island of Hoy on route to the ma...
The free Bothy about an hours hike from the Old Ma...
Rackwick Bay beach just below the bothey,about an ...
Looking back down on Rackwick Bay from the path to...
Andy at the start of the crack on the second pitch...
Top of Pitch Three
Paul starting up the last pitch
Andy on top displaying the rations.
The Old Man from the other side......
BETA PHOTO: The Route
|Comments on Old Man of Hoy
From: The Deeper South
Dec 5, 2009
Next time I'm in Scotland, this is going down!
|By Howard Chuntz|
Jun 6, 2011
I climbed his route in 1975 (supposedly 1st American ascent. What was the move out of the 3rd overhang on P2? There seemed to be no handholds but there was a wooden wedge pounded into the crack leading up with a drilled hole and threaded with half inch webbing. Are the old railroad spikes still place that were used for the rappel anchors?
Jun 10, 2011
None of that gear was there in the 1990's. Those items must have been left from the first ascent.Good effort in 75 .... and just getting to the Isle of Hoy itself..
|By John Martin|
From: Kearns, UT
Sep 23, 2011
I would love to do this route, check out this video:
|By Andy Weinmann|
From: Alexandria, VA
Sep 10, 2013
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a
Can be done with a single 60m rope (using alpine draws properly) and then rapped with a 60m and tagline. First rap: summit to the lower of the two anchors on the big corner (you'll have to step back out on the big ledge to pull the rope but it's a huge ledge you're on). Second rap: down to top of Pitch 2. Third rap: sweet free-hanging rap to ground.
Recommend taking at least two #3 Camalots and one #4...two #4s would not go unused!