Old Man of Hoy  5.9

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Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 460 feet, Grade II Consensus:  5.9 [details] FA:  Tom Patey Chris Bonington Rusty Bailey.(over 3 days 1966) Submitted By:  USBRIT on Dec 5, 2009 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

The Old Man of Hoy and Andy Ross

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Description 

I have climbed this twice ,the first time leading a group of four antique British climbers in their 50's and 60's ,two were grand parents.The following photo's were with my son Andy who flew in from Salt Lake City, Utah.If you like the desert Towers of Utah this is a must do! The most enjoyment of this climb is from the situations and the wild beauty of the Scottish Islands.The climb described is the original route . There are several more difficult routes to its top. Description :- See Topo photo.P1) Easy climbing to large ledge 5.5 P2)Climb down a few feet then across to the foot of a fine crack a couple of strenuous moves to belay.5.9.P3) Follow open corner (In Spring pucking Femur sea birds in this section )5.6.P4)Super climbing up the open book to a fine summit.5.6.Descent Rap the route.Be careful!

Location 

Hoy Island ,Orkney Islands ,Scotland

Protection 

Normal rack cams and stoppers Two 60m ropes is good.

Photos of Old Man of Hoy Slideshow

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ARRIVING AT THE TOWN OF SKAGNESS ON THE MAIN ORKN...	Passing the small Island of Hoy on route to the ma...	The free Bothy about an hours hike from the Old Ma...
Rackwick Bay beach just below the bothey,about an ...	Looking back down on Rackwick Bay from the path to...	Andy at the start of the crack on the second pitch...
Top of Pitch Three	Paul starting up the last pitch	Andy on top displaying the rations.
The Descent!!	The Old Man from the other side......	BETA PHOTO: The Route