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Bat Cave
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Unsorted Routes:

Old Man and the Sea (ka) 

YDS: 5.13c French: 8a+ Ewbanks: 30 UIAA: X- ZA: 31 British: E7 7a

   
Type:  Sport, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13c French: 8a+ Ewbanks: 30 UIAA: X- ZA: 31 British: E7 7a [details]
FA: Cody Roth
Page Views: 829
Submitted By: KJP on Mar 15, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
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Description 

5.11+(edit: others are saying 12-,but what ever the grade the first bit is definitely 4 stars. As of4\12\13 the mid way has its own anchor.) to a no hands knee bar then two boulders problems with a good but hard to match rest in between them. I thought this had harder moves then Bella Dona, but was much less sustained.

Location 

one to the right of Bella Dona.

Protection 

all fixed draws.


Comments on Old Man and the Sea (ka) Add Comment
Show which comments
By c roth
Mar 18, 2013

Nice send Kinchen!
By c roth
Apr 5, 2013

You must be thinking of another line. I on-sighted the route two years ago and inadvertently did the FA. The following day Timy showed up, and when I asked about the line, he said it was an undone project. For the record, "the Stone Age crew" as you call it, hasn't been pissing on the place, we've been hiking out the trash, removing the glue where possible, and doing our best to restore this amazing resource. None of us hate Timy, it's simply that we don't accept or condone one individual's selfish need to manipulate, dumb down and litter a crag. The bat cave belongs to all of us, it's not a gym or someone's private crag. Thus, it should be respected, developed with dignity, and what's not climbable for us now, should be left for future generations, rather than manufactured to one's liking. The name stands, and just so it's clear, anything I bolt is fair game for anyone to try. I WILL NEVER RED TAG A ROUTE. ( I don't have anything against those who tag routes, and I respect routes that are tagged, but as a "professional climber", I don't think I deserve to have my cake and eat it too) If you beat me to one of my projects, congrats, ,you're welcome to name it whatever you like. I believe in progressing the sport and the community, not stagnating it,I don't want to hold anyone back. To the strongest, and by FAIR MEANS.
By David Sahalie
From: on the road again
Apr 8, 2013

My FA is bigger than your FA. LOL.
By LeeAB
Administrator
From: ABQ, NM
Apr 10, 2013

In reference to the who and when question.

It is my understanding that Bryan Pletta along with Mark Thomas and maybe a few others "discovered" the crag many years ago (15-20?), though they did not develop any routes at the Bat Cave itself they did put up several routes at Gotham City.

Bryan has always maintained a topo of those at Stone Age and mentions the Bat Cave to anyone who asks about potential for development. While Timmy was certainly the one to head down and bolt the cave first, others were also bolting routes around the cave at the same time and chose to stay out of the cave because Timmy and several others were already working in there.

BTW, IF the line had previously seen an FA, I agree that re-naming it would be bad form, however, with that in dispute...
By Paul Davidson
Jul 2, 2013

"I am also a semi-pro climber..."
Curious what that means? Comped shoes, work in a gym part-time?

What I don't get is why you're humping on Cody here, Menom. He laid out the story, first hand BTW. It didn't happen the way you seem to want it to have gone down. Cody shows up, onsights a climb, finds out its an FA from Sir Timy, names climb, end of story. So it goes...