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 ADVANCED
The East Quarry
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Asbury Park T,TR 
Battle of the Bulbus S 
Bertha S 
Bluesfish S 
Chum S,TR 
Crack  T 
Crack Au Lait T 
Deepwater Horizon S 
Deer Foot Chimney T,TR 
Defective Agency S 
Emilia's Corner T 
Flying Fish S 
Gargoyle Ju-Ju T 
Good Ju-Ju T 
Goonch, The TR 
Great Wide Shark T 
Hairless Dog S 
Hammerhead T 
Herringbone T 
Herringbone Direct  T 
High Tide S 
Holy Mackerel S 
Isle of Mouse T,TR 
Jaws T 
Jaws Part 2 (Shark Bait) T 
Land Shark T 
Narrow Face T,TR 
Natural Born Topropers T,S,TR 
Nurse Shark T 
Old Man and the Sea S 
Old Man And The Sea Direct S 
Pigeon of the Sea S 
Pinkerton S 
Pinnacle 2 T,TR 
Play With Your Balls T 
Pretzel Logic S 
S.S. Minnow T 
Sand Dollar  S 
Sand Shark T 
Sea Robin T 
Sea Urchin T 
Side of Mouse TR 
Slap Happy S 
Tendonkey Punch S 
Tiger Shark T 
Tiger's Woody S 
Viagra Crack T 
Weakfish S,TR 
Wooly Bully S 

Old Man And The Sea Direct 

YDS: 5.12c/d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 55'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b/c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: FFA: Mark Rolofson on December 19, 2010.
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,220
Submitted By: Mark Rolofson on Jan 14, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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Direct Finish  

Climb to the 6th (final) bolt of Old Man And The Sea. Move right around the prow to a jug and climb straight up to a two bolt anchor. The exciting run-out climbing no longer exists since Mike added a bolt in January 2012. Mike also managed to do the moves straight up past 6th bolt, which is much harder than traversing right the way I went. Enjoy all the tricky climbing on Old Man And The Sea with a hard finish instead of bailing out left. The redpoint crux used to be this finish but is now at 5th bolt. In Spring 2011, a large sidepull pinch broke off and this section is now a very technical. 12c/d crux.

Location 

This lies just right of Nurse Shark.

Protection 

7 bolts.


Comments on Old Man And The Sea Direct Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jay Samuelson
From: Denver CO
Jan 11, 2014

This route is a duplicate entry of Old Man and the Sea, maybe just make that one the only page? It's confusing since they are listed as 12a and 12d, but the route description is the same.
By Monty
From: Golden, CO
Mar 15, 2014

Definitely agree with Jay. This route description should be nothing more than a comment on the Old Man and the Sea page. It's not only a duplicate, it is also a huge inflation of the grade.
By ANGUS WIESSNER
From: Denver Colorad
Dec 23, 2014
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

There is no way this is 12 c/d. It's 12b at most. I'd say 12c is a stretch. Easier than Deep Water Horizon for sure. It would be a really hard onsight though.
By Mark Rolofson
Jan 11, 2015

I should probably pull this post. In 2010, when I led the direct finish that leads to the shared anchor with "Deepwater Horizon", it became the crux of "Old Man & The Sea" that originally finished to the anchor on the left for "Nurse Shark". I did this finish without the last bolt. Then the route changed dramatically when a large, sidepull flake left of the 5th bolt was pulled off, changing the section of the climb from 5.11 to 5.12. Personally, I find it this move harder than any move on "Deepwater Horizon". The direct finish has become the standard finish and no longer the crux.
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