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South Peak - West Face
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Old Ladies Route 

YDS: 5.2 French: 3 Ewbanks: 8 UIAA: II ZA: 8 British: D 2c

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.2 French: 3 Ewbanks: 8 UIAA: II ZA: 8 British: D 2c [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 2,148
Submitted By: Laura Hahn on Nov 1, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (29)
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Description 

#1 Climb up through the notch between Humphrey's Head and the Cockscomb. Belay on a flat ledge with a view to the east. Or initially belay on the west side of the notch for convenience, then move the belay prior to doing P2.(90 feet)
#2 Move out onto the East Face by climbing right and then down. After one exciting move, begin traversing right on an easy ledge to several large trees. This is also a high version that allows the leader to protect the second: traverse right from the belay and step over to a narrow left-facing corner and good handholds. Finish on the ledge traverse. (75 feet)
#3 Climb up and right to the north end of the ledge and climb the sloping flake/ chimney. (100 feet)
#4 Walk right on the large Summit Ledge for about 100 feet to the final Summit Ridge. Many people simply scramble up the exposed 4th class section to the summit. If you are unsure of your ability, belay the final exposed section to the actual summit.

Location 

Begin on the Luncheon Ledge, at the gap between Humphrey's Head and the Cockscomb.

Protection 

Standard trad rack and long slings


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By manyalibo
From: ituri rainforest
Nov 10, 2010

Ahh, brings back memories of my first lead on this circa 1984 ... intimidated by the height of Seneca since all I'd been on was 30' of limestone, a spanking new pair of Fire's, partner who let me lead the crux pitch and then had to spend 45 minutes cleaning the #4 friend I carefully buried at the bottom of the pitch to protect against an upward pull. This was a few years before the Gendarme fell off so we got to climb that. Then on the ridge to the descent someone asked me to throw them the rope which I had coiled so I threw the whole rope, coming close to pitching it all the way to the bottom & leaving us stranded. Rapping off at night, drinking beer. Haven't thought about this climb in forever (gee, wonder why...) ... Guess I'll have to go back to it someday now!
By Matt Caldwell
Jun 1, 2012

First multi-pitch trad lead! Seems like a fun, quality route for such a low rating as 5.2. The exposure was definitely "interesting" for a new leader.