Old Ladder Route 5.9
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| Type: | Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 70 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10a [details] |
| FA: | unknown |
| Submitted By: | Brian Quiter on Mar 2, 2002 |
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BETA PHOTO: overview of the bubble.
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Description Located just right of bolted route The Ladder, this older climb, which bears the same name, stears clear of most of the difficulties associated with the harder climb. Jug after jug leads you up a slightly overhanging face to the ledge where the old top rope bolts were cut. From here head up the right side of the block (whereas the bolted climb stays left. The crack and dihedral are on.
Protection Shares the top anchors with The Ladder. Set up a top rope by walking around the left side of The Bubble and placing a long sling on the 2 bolts atop the climb.Leading this climb would probably require much more than a standard rack. Very large cams could protect the huge brocken huecos down low, then as the pockets become more reasonably sized, normal cams would do the trick. Finally, some small nuts would work for the top crack. Know what you're doing before venturing to lead this traditionally top roped problem.
| Comments on Old Ladder Route |
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By Floyd Hayes
Oct 28, 2008
rating: 5.10a X
| This climb is really fun. Chris Summit's "The Wine Country Rocks" rates this as 5.10b/c. The holds are huge overhanging jugs and there is a large hole in which you can squat and rest. I think it would be a bit tough for 5.9 if leading it--which I doubt anybody ever does. I'm surprised nobody has ever bolted it. |
By eric berghorn
From: Calistoga,CA
May 2, 2012
rating: 5.10a/b PG13
| This often overlooked line was Bolted April 2012. 6 bolts to chain anchor. Finishes right of "The Ladder" and left of "Bubble Boy". While "X" ratings given by some for these climbs may be excessive, "PG13" is certainly appropriate. I too was surprised that this line was never bolted and after waiting several years I recently revisited this project. Classic pocket pulling on this moderate lead ! |
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