Never seen that video before. Interesting accident. If the rappel biner was the same one as in the video then clearly it did not "snap", but appears to have had some interesting damage done to it!
I've only seen a biner have it's gate brought around to the other side once before. A belayer was trying to go up his side of the rope to a climber using a grigri. He at one point clipped a quickdraw to his belay loop and to a bolt. After trying to pull a challenging move, he fell onto the draw / bolt. The fall and carabiner gate interaction on his harness was enough to pop a gate to the opposite side. The biner was a non-locker.
I'd imagine the biner in the video wasn't locked when that happened, but who knows... Lucky guy.
When I am looking up some info about cross loading the biner, I found this outdoors.stackexchange.com/questions/1384/what-does-it-mean->>> In that post, there are someone mentioning that putting the belaying biner through both attachment points instead of putting it through the belay loop may weaken the biner. What's you 2 cents on that?
This results in the biner being loaded in 3 directions, as opposed to the 2 it was designed for. One of these tends to be closer to the gate side also, further exacerbating the problem. The belay loop may not be redundant, but if the 40kn belay loop breaks you've got far bigger problems than a lack of redundancy. Some gyms require that the belay carabiner be clipped through both tie-in points despite this, and I've never understood why.
The belay loop may not be redundant, but if the 40kn belay loop breaks you've got far bigger problems than a lack of redundancy. Some gyms require that the belay carabiner be clipped through both tie-in points despite this, and I've never understood why.
Interestingly, one of the guys I know always belay through the two tie-in points. And he told me one time that a gym told him to use the belay loop instead, claiming the manufacture suggesting the belay loop is more secure than the tie-in points. In that context, I would think the other way around, until I realize the biner problem pointed out above.
Just curious: How does everyone set up their belay/rappel with an ATC?.. ...with the wide end (not sideways, but the wider end that is not cross loading) of the biner touching the ATC or the narrow end touching the ATC? Which way is safest? Thanks
Hi Jon, according to the vid, it seems they use the larger end of the pearl shaped biner for both the anchor attachment point and the belaying