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 ADVANCED
Castle Rock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Angel T 
Canary T 
Cat Burglar T 
Century T 
Crack of Doom T 
Damnation Crack T 
Dan's Dreadful Direct (aka DDD) T 
Das Musak S 
Devil's Fright T 
Lucky Charms T 
MF Direct T 
MF Overhang T 
Midway T 
Midway Direct T 
No Such Thing as a Free Lunge T 
Nose, of Jello Tower, The T 
Old Gray Mare T 
Orange Peel T 
Rainbow Connection T,TR 
Rainshadow Direct S 
Saber T 
Saints T 
Satanic Verses T 
Slim Pickins T 
South Face, Jello Tower T 
Winter Solstice T 

Old Gray Mare 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 774
Submitted By: Brian Hench on Aug 21, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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Seasonal Raptor Closure Update: Noontime and Midnight Rock now open MORE INFO >>>

Route Description 

Climb the buttress to the left of the first pitch of Canary and move left to a ledge. This puts one at the start of Crack of Doom.

Protection 

One bolt and one fixed piton plus small cams and stoppers.


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By Brian Hench
From: Costa Mesa, CA
Aug 21, 2009

Route protects much better than it appears from the ground. This route doesn't get as much traffic as it deserves, probably because most believe the only way to the top is Crack of Doom, 5.10b. Actually, one could choose to continue on Winter Solstice by going left on the ledge system to join that route.
By Shaun Johnson
Feb 24, 2013

Super fun route! A few wires and small cams supplement the bolts on Old Grey Mare.

Above and slightly left of Crack Of Doom is a set of chain anchors that allows a 60 meter rope to reach back to loggers ledge.

Linking Old Grey Mare with Crack of Doom is one of my favorite pitches at Castle Rock.
By geoff georges
From: Seattle, Wa.
Oct 23, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

FA: Dan Davis, mid 1960's.
Also worth trying is the rightward traverse into 2nd pitch of Canary, or continue past Canary and go up to anchor of Orange Peel. Many long slings, even on the bolts to help with the rope drag. Maybe 5.8 or 5.9