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Old Easy is one of the foremost crags at Vedauwoo, with classic routes like MRC Direct and sub areas like the Golden Triangle and the Pelvic Area. Really good routes (besides MRC) and good rock exist here but are seldom climbed like Golden Grief (5.8 slabs and jamming), Ascending Colon (5.7 hands) and for finger crack freaks - Finger Fantasy (12a). You need to go exploring here!!
Old Easy is the major crag easily seen directly east across the small valley from Fall Wall. Access is by taking the Box Canyon Trail northeasterly from the Fall wall Parking Lot about 200 yards to a very large boulder with a picnic table beneath it. Several trails go up to the base of the climbs from behind this boulder requiring hiking and scrambling over broken slabs and smaller boulders.
19 Total Routes
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Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Old Easy:
The Biggest Tits in Country Music V3 6A Trad, Boulder
Desiderata V5 6C Trad, Boulder, 20'
The Hatchet V6 7A Boulder, 25'
Bombay Hooker V6 7A Boulder, 15'
Guardian V7 7A+ Trad, Boulder, 13'
Psychoshop V7 7A+ Trad, Boulder, 15'
MRC Direct 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a Trad, 2 pitches
Old Easy Arete (aka "Arettez Maintenant") 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a PG13 Sport, 1 pitch, 120'
Straight Edge 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a Trad, 1 pitch, 65'
Classic Splitter 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c V-easy 3 Trad, Boulder, 13'
Featured Route For Old Easy
Straight Edge 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a WY : Vedauwoo : Old Easy
Climb MRC Direct, and belay on the large ledge that is down and climber's right from the MRC rap rings (gear belay). Straight Edge is the unmistakable splitter. Step across the chasm, jam a flared crack (#6 stopper works nicely here) to a small bulge, place pro, and gun for the top. The guidebook rates this a 9+; however, compared to other 9+s in Vedauwoo that I have done, this is a step up. It is definitely a 3-star pitch....[more] Browse More Classics in WY
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