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Old Easy Arete (aka "Arettez Maintenant")
5.9+ YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA E1 5a British PG13
Avg: 2.4 from 25
votes
Routes in Old Easy
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Aluminum Overcast T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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Bear Flare, The T V6 7A |
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Biggest Lips in Rock 'n' Roll, The V3 6A |
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Biggest Tits in Country Music, The T V3 6A |
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Bombay Hooker V6 7A |
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Boneghazi V3 6A |
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Borg, The V12 8A+ |
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Cheap Perfume V1 5 |
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Cheap Perfume Direct V1 5 |
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Cincinnati Sua Slide T V5-6 6C+ |
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Classic Splitter T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c V2 5+ |
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Dancing All Night T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Desiderata T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a V5- 6C |
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Dire Pitch T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Finger Fantasy T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Gehe Jetzt T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Golden Grief T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Guardian T V7 7A+ |
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Hatchet, The V6 7A |
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MRC Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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MRC Left T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Nameless Crack V3 6A R |
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No Name Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Old Easy Arete (aka "Arettez Maintenant") S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Psychoshop T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b V7 7A+ |
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Red Snapper, The T V10 7C+ |
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Reverse Cowgirl V2 5+ |
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Seeking Subtle Hands T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Soggy Bottom T V5 6C |
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Straight Edge T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Unknown Boulder V0 V0 4 |
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| Type: | Sport, 120 ft (36 m) |
| FA: | Ben Boykin, Dean Twitchell, c.1993 |
| Page Views: | 2,063 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | Ben Boykin on Jun 22, 2007 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki, Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Temporary Notice on aerial herbicide treatment & Bad Bolt Submission Form
Details
PSA for those thinking about a trip. The gates are still closed and the sign says enter at your own risk. "Aerial application by helicopter of the herbicide Rejuvra will target over 5,700 acres on a landscape that has been the focus of multiple years’ worth of treatment."
fs.usda.gov/detail/mbr/news….
docs.google.com/forms/d/e/1…
fs.usda.gov/detail/mbr/news….
docs.google.com/forms/d/e/1…
Description
Sustained crystalline friction at 5.9, first 3 bolts. Tech crux at the 4th bolt (might even be 10a). Rob Kelman, guidebook author, downrated route from original rating of 10a to 9 in 1994's "Heel & Toe." Recently (2007), Rob said, "It's become harder. Couldn't be because I've gotten older, could it??" This would be a bad route for the second to fall of of, hence I have added two more bolts in the middle section & one at the very top.
Location
Look for an obvious line of bolts on the rounded arete to the left when about to begin the 3rd class approach to MRC. Standard descent from Old Easy's MRC area.
Protection
All 3/8-inch bolts. Sustained crystalline friction at 5.9, first 3 bolts. Tech crux at the 4th bolt (might even be 10a) with sporty reach to easier ground at the 5th [new] bolt; 6th [new] bolt sets up leader to 5.4 moves to [new] 6th bolt, leading to loose, gravelly crystals at the 7th & 8th bolts. [New] 9th bolt protects second from the big swing should footing be insecure. Natural anchor (an 18-foot cordelette works well around the boulder at the top). At the middle section, we used to reach over the arete and place a few small Camalots in the crack underneath, but being as that was "Department of Prior Knowledge," I chose to add bolts here this year (2007).
3 Comments