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Between Crackland and Wizard Rock
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Old Dragon Ballz T 

Old Dragon Ballz 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 65'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Jason Maurer
New Route: Yes
Season: Any
Page Views: 377
Submitted By: J1. on Jul 31, 2010

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Kevin on P1 caught in action with funky lighting.
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Description 

Climb the flared crack through 2 strenuous bulges. Fingers to tight hands...trickier than it looks.


Location 

This route is located near the Crack Land area just across the gully and faces Southwest. Once at upper Crack Land, locate the routes, Thus Us or The Enemy Within, do an about face and walk about 50 feet to the north and look up. The route is perched on a nice granite slab overlook with great views of Boulder Canyon and upper Crack Land.


Protection 

Small rack up to a #1 Camalot.
Walk off to the east or set a gear anchor for top-roping.



Photos of Old Dragon Ballz Slideshow Add Photo
The crack to the left of my rope.
BETA PHOTO: The crack to the left of my rope.
Giving that crack some Maurer-power!
Giving that crack some Maurer-power!
Kevin on P2 above the crux.
Kevin on P2 above the crux.
Comments on Old Dragon Ballz Add Comment
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By Cor
Jul 31, 2010
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

Nice work, Jason!
Despite being a short route, don't be fooled.
It is like a little Vedauwoo simulator, with fun climbing.

By Leo Paik
Administrator
From: Westminster, Colorado
Oct 4, 2010

Not knowing what the route was and missing the entry in Crack Land, we did a tiny approach pitch for this 2 pitch line. Most will consider skipping the 1st pitch. The first pitch is lichenous and has a discontinuous nature, but its upper half has a nice smidgen of crack. Perhaps it is 5.7.