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Old Dogs New Trick
5.11c/d YDS 7a French 24 Ewbanks VIII UIAA 25 ZA E4 6a British V3- YDS 6A Font
Avg: 3.8 from 18
votes
Routes in Spelunk Spire
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Condi T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Dermatome T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Gandhi T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Grand Central Station T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Old Dogs New Trick T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a V3- 6A |
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Paper Training T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Pussy Cat's Hot Licks T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Sky Shot T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Spelunk Spiral T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c |
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Wrist Ranger T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, Boulder, 20 ft (6 m) |
| FA: | Bob Scarpelli |
| Page Views: | 3,692 total · 17/month |
| Shared By: | JNE on Apr 8, 2006 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki, Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson |
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Description
Classic sandbag. This is overhanging, has tough sizes, and there is one hand jam 3/4 the way up. For feet, rand smears in the crack are the way to go. It is totally sweet. TR it if you want, but better yet, haul out a pad and boulder it. No, your fingers will not rip off and stay in the crack if you fall. Go for it! This is one of my favorite boulder problems EVER. Really, EVER.
Location
Walk toward End of the Road Rock, as per the description for EOTRR and Spelunk Spire. Past Muscle and Fitness (the very overhung right leaning offwidth in the left side of the a-frame accross the stream to the right), after the trail begins bending around to the right (north of) of the formation containing MAF, locate a trail heading up a small sage brush covered hill to the left. It is very vague for the first ten yards or so, nearly non-existent some years, and marked by a short dead pine tree nearby. The trail soon becomes more distinct, and shortly thereafter dives down into an aspen grove. Once out of this aspen grove, head right toward the obvious rock formation (Spelunk Spire, named for the pointed summit at the western most end). At the formation head right until the very last boulders. Looking up to the left you will see a splitter finger crack so perfect it defies reality.
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