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Email me.
 
By Michael Komarnitsky
Founding Father
From Seattle, WA
Jun 6, 2006
Myke Komarnitsky

I had a bunch of miscellaneous pictures, photos, surveys that were on climbingboulder.com that never really fit in with the new mountainproject.com. It's just as well, since it was probably only entertaining to me and Ben to read it. However, for posterity's sake I've decided to throw them on here in this thread.

It's got the very beginning, the technical details when we ran on a Pentium II, it's got Sven, the mountainweb lawsuit threats, and other hidden gems.


FLAG
By Michael Komarnitsky
Founding Father
From Seattle, WA
Jun 6, 2006
Myke Komarnitsky

[Our Story Page]

Our Story

Please Understand that this is quite rough around the edges, and still in progress. Additionally, our mothers would not approve of some of our verbage. And, if you are one of our mothers, please stop reading now, until we can clean it up. - The Management


On Januay 22, 2000, Ben "Number 1" Mottinger, Ben "Number 2" Schneider, and Myke Komarnitsky awoke to a beautiful winter day in Boulder. It was warm, and they headed up to Eldorado Canyon, and up to the West Ridge. They had Richard Rossiter's classic book, Boulder Climbs South. They began hiking up the ridgeline, looking for Positively 4th Street. It took them 10 minutes to find the route. As #2 prepared to climb, Myke said aloud, "what about building our own climbing guide, online?" And the clouds parted and angels descended in song on golden chariots.

Myke came home and started work on the site. He came up with a simple site architecture that had a directory for each area, directories in those for each rock within that area, and then another directory for each route. The navigation bar had a link for each route on the page. It was hosted at rtt.colorado.edu/~komarnit/climbing/, so on CU-Boulder computers.

Ben and Myke then pulled in Shaun Miller to help on the project and give a non-engineering student perspective to the project. Brainstorming together, we made some terrific refinements to the route page.

We would meet people when climbing, and tell them about the site. Our numbers swelled - we were getting 20 hits on the home page a day! Slowly our routes increased - having every route on the navigation, when you have THIRTY WHOLE ROUTES is obviously a poor system. So with a bit of trepidation, we switched our navigation over to having only the rocks listed.

The project became a learning one, in many dimensions. First, it became clear that we were going to have to get a lot better technically. Tools and features slowly were added we pulled from others, asked for help, or just struggled until we figured it out ourselves. Our ideas for what the site could be were always way beyond what we could do at the time. Example:

Date: Sat, 26 Jan 2001 01:54:36 -0600
To: Ben Mottinger , Shaun Miller
Subject: Re: New logo

What would really be the shit, is if the server would parse everything that gets sent out(it already does, what with the server side includes and stuff) ,.... and every time it saw the phrase "Ben Mottinger" it would replace it with Ben Mottinger .... plus our emails, you know, and like anytime we mention another route. That would be the absolute shit. I just don't know how to get that yet.... but might be a possibility.



So obviously my word choices are poor, but in the interest of integrity and authenticity I leave it as it is. New tools, like a contact form and a guestbook, came on the site. The front page was a still, static image of Ben climbing Sneak Preview, a 5.11c in Bear Canyon.

Date: Wed, 2 Feb 2000 18:46:27 -0700 (MST)
From: Ben Mottinger
To: Michael Komarnitsky
Subject: Re: web site

I think we should edit that front image so that we take out the rope and harness so it looks like I'm soloing it.



I became very adept at annoying the hell out of Ben and Shaun with emails.

Date: Sat, 26 Jan 2001 02:07:36 -0600
To: Ben Mottinger , Shaun Miller
Subject: Re: New logo
Ah, what the hell, I'll keep rambling.
If we are serious about this(not in the 40+ hours/week thing, but rather a few hours a week) there's a lot of issues to consider.
1) one of us cheap asses buying a digital camera - which will probably fall to trust fund baby me. :-)
2) registering a domain, instead of the current one. ex. www.bouldercilmbs.com (available, I checked). They cost somehwere like $70 for a year... pretty reasonable.
3) if it's not on a school computer then... well then, we can possibly put advertising on the web site. Not much revenue, I don't think, but a possibility.
4) I have some seriously cool ideas (search engine, submission method for others more advanced database stuff), but I'm limited in my ability to implement them. maybe we need someone else who's more of a hard core programmer who we know?
5) Once the site's more ready, how to get the word out? I was thinking emailing the local newspapers somehow... also the COdaily has a girl who writes articles in the sports section each week about climbing - emailing her.
6) Some bio stuff about us - IE you click on KMM productions, and it goes to a page about us.
7) we need a disclaimer front and center so we don't get in trouble for somebody dying.
8) Shit, we need to get more fucking climbs in!!! (if shaun ever gets his shoes)

That's what I'm thinking about right now. I think this is, seriously, a very good idea we have here. It's one of those things where I show people, and *everyone* says, "that's a *really* good idea."
I know, I'm a little tired and so overly optimistic. Cut me some slack. I've got the whole vision shit going.... are you guys seeing some of the same thing, or am I way off base here? (ok, what the hell, let's dream. why not expand - white water rafting. paint ball. mountain climbs. mountain biking. skydiving. ie we're rating the different opportunities to do things, and giving advice about where to do it, etc... I know I know, that part's a dream.... but it does sound cool.)

Ramblings,
Myke



Hell, I was dreaming. Still, I think it's interesting to see the vision back then, and how well we've realized the dream. Here's another email; when Ben and Myke took CSCI 6838, User Interface Design, in Spring of 2001, it was interesting to see that many of the principles discussed there we had been thinking about for over a year.

Date: Sat, 26 Jan 2001 21:04:36 -0600
To: Miller Shaun
Cc: Ben

There are three bolts up the route, and two chains at the top. Sorry.
I'll figure out the real names as soon as you fix my pute. teehee.

Cool.

By the way, you're "buildering section is all f-ed up. Is that still in progress?

Should look a LOT better now, the last two days I've busted it out.

How's those pages coming?

Also, I think you, Ben, and I should sit down with a six pack and a computer.... we need to talk about two things: 1) Now that we have a few pages up, what does someone who's coming to the page really interested in? (ie your point about TR info, sources vs. references) I thought a little bit before I did it, but I think we should really talk about what would be useful.

2) Ben's working on the page for the areas. Again, what SHOULD be on this page? Ben can think about it and then put it up, and then we can review and improve upon it once Ben's done the hard work.

Also, I think we should tell whoever else we can think of(Ben Schneider, Laura, Chere, your bouldering buddry) to check out the site, and give us the same feedback: is it useful? What is most useful? What was confusing? Were there typos? What else would be cool about it? etc ad naseum.
Word,
Myke

We also started meeting people through the site. Patrick Vernon we met through the dorms, and supplied us with a lot of initial beta for Lumpy Ridge. He also turned into our resident hardman, able to lead on trad climbs that we only laughed at even toproping. We met some people from Colorado Mountain Club another day, who ended up helping us out with some free maps and other stuff.

We also learned about lawsuits. We had this page up, only to have the CEO of the company threaten us with Defamation of Character. I apologized to Chuck, and removed the page. Unfortunately, Mountainweb.com is no longer in business.

Time came to actually get a real domain. After some searching, we decided upon BoulderClimbing.com. However, when I was registering the name with Network Solutions, I accidentally typed in ClimbingBoulder.com. Whoops. The result was that.






Date: Mon, 13 Mar 2000 00:10:57 -0700 (MST)
From: Ben Mottinger
To: Michael Komarnitsky
Subject: Re: mountainweb.com

Nice entry. Yeah, %$@! those guys. Their flatirons database really sucks. That reminds me--when your camera gets here, we're going to have to take a 1/2 day and do Eldo and the flatirons (3rd and 1st) especially. Our page just isn't complete w/out the flatirons.

B



Yeah, a bunch of fools.

From: "Quinn Stevens"
To:
Date: Mon, 13 Mar 2000 23:27:15 -0700

Myke,

I thought your posting of the trials and tribulations with mountainnerds.com was hilarious. I noticed a few routes that you detail which I have been on, and again, it looks awesome. We should try to heat out again this weekend... let me know what your schedule is like. Also, with respect to your site, I'd be happy to go to an area that I know pretty well (Dream Canyon, Sheerwood, Easter Rock, Clear Creek) and help you out getting beta, etc.

Talk to ya,
Quinn


FLAG
By Michael Komarnitsky
Founding Father
From Seattle, WA
Jun 6, 2006
Myke Komarnitsky

[We almost got sued because we put this on our front page. Apparently calling someone a "tool" is defamation of character.]

We Pissed off Mountainweb.com!


Upon a recommendation to check out their area betas, we checked them out. They're pretty terrible, in our opinion. So, we decided to tell them.... by posting a message on their message board. There were only two postings on the board, both by "Charles J. Quinton." So I added another

"Your area betas kind of suck. For a little more detail, check out rtt.colorado.edu/." [Paraphrased, I don't know the original.]

Well, the next day, I received this email from "Chuck," the CEO of mountainweb.

From: "MountainWeb" chuck@mountainweb.com
To: Myke
Date: Mon, 13 Mar 2000 10:27:05 -0700

I hope you have something better to do than slam other websites. Sincerely, Charles J. Quinton CEO MountainWeb, Inc. 303-462-3677 fax 303-462-3723 www.mountainweb.com

ok, so maybe I'm a jerk. But I thought it was funny that the CEO had the time to respond. Now that's customer service. Of course, I wanted to see what I wrote that made him so mad. Chuck had been busy at work though; my message on their site had been erased. Damn! It seemed appropriate for me to make amends to Chuck for my insensitivity. I knew they were looking to pay people for flatirons beta info.

From: Myke
To:"MountainWeb" chuck@mountainweb.com
Subject: Re:
Date: Mon, 13 Mar 2000 14:33:09 -0700

Alright dude, whatever. I'm just being honest, your area betas are pretty weak. I hear you're looking for some for the flatirons. We got em.

See ya
Myke


Unfortunately, that just ticked him off more.

From: "MountainWeb" chuck@mountainweb.com
To: Myke
Subject: Re:
Date: Mon, 13 Mar 2000 14:33:09 -0700

Mr. Brooks notified me that you might be in touch and that you might be interested in being paid for some of your information. At this time, we are unwilling to work with you. You don't insult someone TWICE when you're asking for money. PS. We're adding over 20 routes today and we'll have a comprehensive guide up by week's end.

I guess that PS comment was supposed to make us feel bad... or something. Whatever. In our opinion, he's a tool. If you would like to comment on his bulletin board, you can Here.


FLAG
By Michael Komarnitsky
Founding Father
From Seattle, WA
Jun 6, 2006
Myke Komarnitsky

Looking through these, it reminds me that I was a pretty immature 21 year old. Good thing I've grown up.... right?


FLAG
By Michael Komarnitsky
Founding Father
From Seattle, WA
Jun 6, 2006
Myke Komarnitsky

We got really involved in the chipping controversy a few years after some chipped routes showed up on the site.

-------------

Position Statement, written on behalf of climbingboulder.com

After careful deliberation, Climbingboulder.com has decided to delineate routes known to be manufactured in our online database of natural Colorado climbs with a doorway page explainging our stance on the issue. The reasons are manifold, yet all stem from our basic belief that the altering of the rock via blatant hold manufacture, be it with a hammer or a pneumatic drill, is antithetical to the spirit of climbing. In fact, to the vast majority of the Colorado climbing community, it is anathema.

The validity of this stance is backed by a very demonstrable consensus. A recent poll of Boulder climbers about the bolt wars in Boulder Canyon revealed that 243 out of 255 climbers either disagreed or strongly disagreed that the chipping of holds on new cliffs should be permitted. A Yahoo poll conducted of contributors to this site produced similar results. And finally, climbing advocacy groups like the Access Fund and the American Alpine Club have their own anti-chipping policies in place, not to mention the fact that many equipment manufacturers such as Metolius no longer sponsor climbers known to be chippers.

With so many talented climbers and so much potential for cutting-edge new routes in Colorado it is unfortunate that a handful of climbers are still resorting to this base and vile practice, a practice that robs climbers both future and present of the chance to experience the rock in an unaltered state. As one climber so eloquently put it, "Publicity lends legitimacy." We feel that by making it more difficult to access these routes on the site we're stripping them of the publicity they never quite deserved in the first place.

- Local Climber
November 4, 2001
What will not be classified as modified:
Actions taken to preserve a route, such as stabilizing a hold with glue (as long as the intent and effect is not to make the hold better or easier for a climber), while ethical arguable, will not be classified as a modified route. Secondly, issues of safety, such as bolting a rock, take a higher priority and will not be classified as modified routes in this database.

A route that has modified holds, and then climbed free without using those modified holds, will not be classified as modified. This does not justify filling in the modified hold or altering the rock further. This issue, in particular, is still under discussion. If you'd like to weigh in, please do.

If you feel we've made a mistake:
If you feel this route has been misidentified, please add your comment to that route explaining your reasons respectfully, but thoroughly. We do read every comment that's added in that way. If your argument has validity, we will remove the modified route classification.

What about aid climbing?
Aid climbing is well known for modifying rock. Many famous routes have recognizable pin scars. We recognize aid climbing as a valid form of climbing, and it's modification of the rock, while regrettable, is unavoidable for that type of climbing. However, an aid climb can be classified as modified as well.

"In this case[Aid Climbing], the rock is deliberately altered to facilitate progress, but without actually placing an honest bolt (or bailing). This would include the idea of enlarging hook placements for ease of use ("enhancing" is the euphemism of choice used by these folks). Trenching copperheads, ie drilling shallow slots which will accept copperheads (especially effective in blind corners which look like they maybe, just maybe could have had real placements), is another way to "chip" aid climbs. The intention is to alter the rock deliberately to satisfy one's ego, this time to artificially lower the bolt-count on a line. -- Stephen "Crusher" Bartlett

Are there any Resources Available to read more on this issue?
The Blacklist (actual list of climbs)
Access Fund Stance
Local Surveys
More Surveys
Email List Discussion
Fiddler on the Woof (more discussion)

This whole idea is COMPLETELY off base!
Really? well, then tell us how. We always want our stance on this issue to be more rigorous and consistent, and if you've seen an error in our position, please let us know! Just try to be constructive - insults, intimidation, and condescension don't work very well...

Does this mean that I can clean lichen off anywhere I want?
No. This stance, and the below image, is not meant to explain what is appropriate or inappropriate action for all areas. Rather, this is merely an explanation of our classification systemn for routes termed as "modified". Indeed, in many locations, cleaning lichen, pulling off loose blocks, or gardening can result in a fine or even jail! Above and byeond our stance here, climbers in general should adhere to the Leave No Trace ethic whenever possible, to minimize impact on the areas we are enjoying.




Feedback We've Been Getting Regarding This

COMMENTS I am just responding to the chipping stance, and I approve of it. I believe that not putting chipped routes on the site just sweeps the problem under the rug. The problem needs to be adressed, and there needs to be some way to find out what is chipped/drilled. This way I could have avoided one of my most dissapointing days of climbing ever, when I grabbed a drilled pocket on a route that I otherwise was enjoying. I found a way to do the sequence without the pocket, but have never gone back to the route only because it is drilled. I want a place in which I can find out if a route is drilled before I get on the route. None of the guidebooks say anything about the drilling.

COMMENTS I like it! Awsome way of handling those routes.

COMMENTS climbingboulder is your (and I suppose your friends') website. For people to accuse you guys of being dictatorial, etc. is absurd. Of course you can be dictatorial with your own site! Its yours. Anyway, you have gone out of your way to accomodate other view points and I'm sure you're well aware of this. You guys are doing a fine job with the site. You are being far more tolerant than I would on the chipping issue. Chippers fit the same psychological profile as people that would use liposuction instead of excersise to improve their appearance.

COMMENTS After not looking at your site for a while I was suprised and thrilled to note an anti chipping stance being taken. I had thought that chipping was an acepted practice amongst modern climbers. Just goes to show how out of touch I am. As long as the people who maintain this site can see thier way to a nonadvocacy of chipping, let me see if I can open your mind to an attidude I have always held.

Why not try to climb eliminating all artificial changes to the rock. This would include leaving as much fauna as possible, after all I enjoy seeing the one flower growing out of a crack 100 feet in the air, perhaps someone next year might also. This would also include putting in no bolts. Bolts permanently alter rock and rock climbing. Climbing took a major leap forward after clean climbing came around. What has happened since is retro. Let fixed gear disappear as it breaks and falls out. Climbing on natural rock without chipped holds forces one to climb on the rocks terms, so does climbing using only protection where it is natuaraly available. For protectionless stretches of rock why not wait for standards to rise, or toprope it or never climb it. What is wrong with an unclimbed piece of rock.

I remember my disgust when bolting became a thing people did lightly. From having bolts rarely for one or two moves we went to climbs made entirely of bolts. When I first heard of chipping I thought nothing. It was just a logical extension of bolting. One changes the mental (danger) aspect of the sport, the other changes the gymnastic aspect. I have friends that have helped to make sport park. I believe them to be no more misguided than my bolting friends. They are only trying to enjoy a sport they love and to help others to enjoyit also.

When I look at the vast expanses of blank rock in canyonlands I see huge jugs, with long reaches inbetween, protected by 1/2" x 12" expansion bolts. Does that picture bring a bad taste to your mouth? So do all those bolts I see sprouting on the Bastile. I dont mean to seem absolutist, but where do you draw the line.

I have sent this message only to the people who maintain this site, because obviously you care about climbing and also your opinions resonate loudly throughout the local scene via your media. I have no intent to begin a bolt debate, I just wanted you to see a different perspective.

COMMENTS I think the 'wallowing' evolved when climbing became more recreational. Recreation is a sort of commercial way of looking our 'free' time. People are just used to buying things and now alot of climbers expect a homogenized user-friendly product to be available for them. I think most people no more consider the ethics of a particular route than they consider the ethics of a meal or a movie. It's the mainstream consumer mentality. That's why I think the debates on CLIMBINGBOULDER are beneficial-they get more people to think about it.

On the other hand the land, and the rock, is heavily impacted by people more and more so how can people get the maximum benefit from the smallest amount of rock? Recreational sportclimbing seems too generic for me to get any benefit from it. I think the uniqueness of each route offers the most value. That's why I'd like to see bolts used for anchors when needed and minimally for protection. I think there are too many routes that are minimally rewarding as 'warm-ups' or training routes but would be memorable if the leader had to think more. That's why I'm opposed to having bolts where A1 protection is available to prevent a serious fall. Furthermore- what's wrong with toproping? At Devil's Lake (Wisc) the large majority of people toprope and have plenty of safe fun. A lot of crags could have sets of anchors accessible from one warm-up sport route. Anyway we'll see what happens now. It is interesting.

COMMENTS What interests me that most at this junction is what is most functional for this website. I'd argue that we'll make our life easier, while still retaining some stance on 'manufacturing,' if glue is excluded from condemnation.

Having said this, climbing presents an interesting model for the relationship of man with the world. To some degree, we're always, inherently, in conflict with nature. There is no rational justification for our existence. I think chipping, glue, cleaning, bolts, pieces, chalk, and even shoe rubber, are technically all wrong in the context of an essentially narcissistic sport. However, because we're inevitably in this state of conflict, we have to make some distinctions, that are pretty much arbitrary. So, it's still a good endeavor to have this discussion, as it's our only valuable option.
My main point is that you failed to notify some fairly prominent participants and contributors to the web site about actions to be taken regarding their routes. I'm not going to climb chipped routes at the dog house or anywhere else and that's my choice based on information I've obtained through this site and other sources. I don't need climbingboulder.com delivering a big sermon on the subject to make that decision. Personally I think that chipped routes could be removed from the site with a lot less fanfare after discussion with the individuals who contributed them. The site needs to involve its members in shaping opinion and not simply go ahead and start dictating what's acceptable and what's not. I can only imagine what Alan Nelson, who's contributed hundreds of climbs and areas to the, adding immeasurably to its value, thought when his route was suddenly branded as chipped (however accurately) without any notice.

If you want my suggestions, I recommend that all the routes regarded as chipped be placed in an additional section for public comment before labeling them as modified. I also recommend that the "sermon" page not be added to every route but that a prominent link to it be added to the route description and that an obvious but not obnoxious "chipped" icon be added at the top of the route. All of this should be done after some kind of consensus is reached which I'll leave up to you how to decide. I think with this approach, the brouhaha would be minimized, chipped routes would be acknowledged as such, and a sense of community preserved.

COMMENTS re-attaching holds is a very tough call -- Christian Griffith re-attached a hold to The Face up at Three of a Kind on Flagstaff (tho I think it wasn't the original piece) and got tons of shit for it -- this also seems to be the case with Peter's route in Clear Creek, perhaps that's why he's a bit miffed

I'm more of the school -- if a hold falls off, fuck it, the route gets harder -- but there's also the argument for preserving a route (e.g. the Face) at its original grade and with the original holds -- I'd lean more towards this practice being somewhat fishy, much fishier than simply re-inforcing holds, but a fundamentalist like A. Nelson would probably argue that glue is glue so why make a distinction....umm, I would actually solicit Peter's ideas about this as well since I think he re-affixed a hold that fell off in Clear Creek -- I'd say it's situationally justifiable, which probably isn't a good enough stance, is it? He could probably present a good case for this type of route maintenance, and in chossy areas like Rifle or Flagstaff, it probably makes much more sense than say on granite, where holds tend to either be very attached or not so much at all

COMMENTS I'm glad to see that there has been a step taken towards confronting the problem of chipping. I'm writing to you directly for a couple reasons. ...

Another reason is that I applaud Matt Samet's willingness to be forthcoming about his own misadventures. I think the confession about chipping holds on the route in New Mexico is admirable and in that spirit I wanted to raise another subject for worthy debate but didn't know the appropriate place on the site. If I wrote this as a route description it might get missed. I decided to send it to you with the hope that you will put it wherever it belongs....
COMMENTS I think it's much more improved -- less doctrinaire with a more lenient spectrum that accounts for typical first ascent activity like trundling and the occasional use of glue. I think you nailed it "with the intent of making a route easier." Therein lies the crux of the argument, and you've voiced it well. Routes with chipped holds that have been done w/o them are still chipped routes, as far as I can tell, unless the person that frees them takes it upon themselves to repair the damage. Because likely, repeat ascents will use the chipped holds (shit, if a hold's there most of us are going to grab it!). I would still classify these as chipped.

The glue thing is interesting. All sorts of crafty things have been done with glue, but again, if the intent is to make the route easier and not to simply reinforce existing holds, then you cross the line. Adding extra glue to a hold to make it bigger, sculpting glue crimpers on crumbly rock -- these seem like manufacturing to me. Squirting a little glue behind a loose flake seems perfectly acceptable on choss rock, which is where most sport climbing takes place anyway.

I like this idea about intent. I think even a fundamentalist would have trouble refuting that argument, tho he may try.

COMMENTS Thanks for taking the stand on chipped routes. Climbing is not a number game, and it s not an amusement park, it s a game of life and a game against Mother Nature.

It provides strength for everyday survival in the world around us. It challenges our minds and our bodies at the same time. It is not usually a comp against one and another, but a competition against Mother Nature and us. Climb hard!!! But most importantly climb safe and have fun!!!

COMMENTS I see your points. I disagree. I will play the game.

Thanks for your reply.


FLAG
By Michael Komarnitsky
Founding Father
From Seattle, WA
Jun 6, 2006
Myke Komarnitsky

We used this posting for routes that were classified as "chipped" according to our rules

-------------------------------

This is a Modified Route

For some reason, this route has been classified as a modified route. The route may be an especially egregious offender, or the victim of actions which tread the line between questionable and unacceptable. To the right is our stance on a variety of actions, and the varying degrees of what we believe to be acceptable stewardship of the rock around us. Each of these actions has various degrees of extremity; therefore, the graphic is meant as a guide to judge the particular route and the circumstance around that specific instance. The graphic describes typical actions relating to free climbing, yet the classification and concern resides with aid climbing as well. The fundamental principle that deems a route to be modified is:

"If the intent and/or result of the climber's actions is to permanently modify or alter the rock with tools in order to make the route easier, the route is a modified route."

Please see our Chipping Page for a more thorough explanation of our reasons and thoughts on this issue. If you believe we've made this classification in error, please click the link below and add your reasons and thoughts there.

Myke Komarnitsky
Ben Mottinger
November 9, 2001


FLAG
By Michael Komarnitsky
Founding Father
From Seattle, WA
Jun 6, 2006
Myke Komarnitsky

We set up a system so that you could use a palm, blackberry, or cell phone to check out the database. "Imagine yourself hanging off the edge of the Naked Edge and whipping out your cell phone to get the beta for the next pitch!"

----------

Wireless.ClimbingBoulder.com

Wireless applications have come a long way. They still have a long ways to go, in terms of true functionality and usability. Here are some example shots of the two current wireless tools (that we know of) that are capable of connecting to our database. The palm does a fairly decent job of rendering the text and formatting, given it's large display environment. The cell phone faces the problem of such a small display area. Neither are capable of rendering .jpg's or .gif's.


FLAG
By Michael Komarnitsky
Founding Father
From Seattle, WA
Jun 6, 2006
Myke Komarnitsky

I tried to write up some technical details of the site. It's funny (to me at least) to see what the site ran on then.

--------------------

Tech details
This is still a mess. The tech details are correct, but I don't think it's really that clear. STILL IN PROGRESS!


Current Architecture:

ClimbingBoulder.com shares a Pentium II 233 MhZ server with 96 MB of memory with several other web sites. This server is co-located at AES Consulting, an excellent web hosting provider in Boulder, Colorado.

The server runs Red Hat Linux 7.0, with Apache 1.3.14 as the web server. We utilize mysql, an open-source, free, nifty, database program as our database tool. For our needs it is clearly enough - additionally it was pretty simple to install and use. All of the database interaction code is written in Perl, which allows for fast iteration time for development. The only other language used is Javascript in a few form checking situations. The structure and layout of the site is accomplished using a table-based layout design, as opposed to a Cascading Style Sheets or other design environment method that are not fully supported by the wide variety of browsers currently used. We do use a stylesheet to define the fonts used throughout the site, and some of the color schemes in the site.

Log analysis is done by a program called Analog, the most popular logfile analyzer in the world (according to them). For our search engine we use Swish-e, an easy-to-use and free search engine program.

Database Design:
You can see the full database design here. Additions or modifications to the database are done all through web forms in the administrative area of the site. As of right now, the only public forms are to add a record to the route table or the people table.

Viewing the Information:
The information in the database is completely unformatted. That is, it is only the letters used. However, it is more more useful and interesting to see the information in an organized and thoughtful way. Therfore, the information for each record in each table is run through a template that takes the text and applies the formatting so the nice look results in the html page. This is done via a script that runs nightly.

Every night, a script runs that queries the database for every route, rock, and area in both the rock and ice database. This script takes the unformatted information, passes it through a template for each one of those six types of pages. Then this information is written to html files in the directories that they appear in. It takes about 15 minutes to run and write 800+ html files - 1 for each page, and a printer-friendly version.

Result:
There are several reasons why we built this current architecture, and most are based off of the previous architecture. First, the normal (and old) method of accessing information through a database is that every request goes through a program that queries the database. For example, this is the type of URL that would reflect that:
www.climbingboulder.com/cgi-bin/view.pl?table=route&id=254
view.pl then executes, and queries the route table and asks for the 254th one.

However, our data does not change on a per-minute basis. Say 100 people a day request to see route number 254; the resulting information is always the same. We currently receive about 2,500 page views per day. Thus view.pl gets executed about 2,000 times per day. Running view.pl is much more work for the server, and slower for the visitor, than just sending out an html file. Thus the result is a much lower server load and quicker pages for the visitor.

Secondly, dynamic content(like the url shown above) is not indexed by the major search engines. There is a lot of words and descriptions that people have written to describe routes. With the previous architecture, this was never indexed. Having the information in straight html files allows search engines to index all of the content on the site, resulting in a higher likelihood of someone looking for certain information will find our site.

Search engine:
Every night our search engine runs after all the html files are built. Since there may be new additions, we re-index all the pages. Taking about 4 minutes to run, it allows a super-quick response to visitor queries.

Other Scripts:
Other scripts run every night. The 3 star of the day is generated every night, as are the people and book pages. The database stats on the front page are updated nightly. The result is that the site runs itself during normal day-to-day operations. Which is nice.

A lot of thought has gone into making the site scalable, easy to manage, and easy to use.

In May, we met with Gary Neptune of Neptune Mountaineering. We explained our project, and he was as excited as we were by the possibilities. At the time we had probably 100 routes. Gary's willingness to support and encourage this project, when it was still so small, is a tribute to his dedication to the community. Neptune's deserves definite recognition for how far we've been able to come.

#####################################

Version 1:
there was a directory for each route. For every route, there was an identical index.html file. This file then grabbed a bunch of text files from the current directory. Those files were called things like name.txt, rating.txt.... and were nothing more than the text for the name that they suggest. The problem with this is that it was very unwieldy. Basically the information was spread to be in directories all over the site, and each directory had 13 files. From a management perspective it's a mess - the data is all over the place, and it's tough to do. Plus, it meant that the only way to add routes was to have Ben or I make those files and then upload them to the server - what a pain in the ass.

Version 1.5:
We made a form with all of the required fields. When the user clicked submit, it created a directory and all of the files. Then we could check the information, and then just copy the directory to the correct place. Then, change the number of routes on the front page, and add a link on the rock page where that route resides. Still, a lot easier for us.

Version 2.0:
This was the big change. All of the data(about 230 routes) were inputted into a true database. Then, the same form above was made public. When the user submitted the route, it automatically got added to the database. Then, instantly, the statistics on the front page are updated. The newest routes item on the front page instantly shows what the name was, the rating the stars, and the person who submitted it. The rock page where that route resides instantly shows that route to be existing. This was fundamentally differnt from previous - the community could submit routes and have the database grow without any intervention by us.

Version 3.0:
Here's where we're at now. There's a number of backend improvements. However, the big difference is a shift away from a rock climbing database. Rather than de-emphasize it, we're raising the priority of ice climbing and community aspects.


FLAG
By Michael Komarnitsky
Founding Father
From Seattle, WA
Jun 6, 2006
Myke Komarnitsky

Our old FAQ.

-----------

FAQ (Frequently Asked Questions)

Why are you doing this?
Have you ever seen Rossiter's guide, Rock Climbing Boulder Canyon? It's an amazing canonical list of route information in the canyon. Unfortunately, many times his sketches and descriptions make it tremendously difficult to figure out where the route is (eg. climb the crack on the right end of the rock).

This is exactly the type of situation we want to remedy. We want to make it beyond obvious exactly how to arrive at a route, and where the route actually is.

Plus, we want to remember the routes that we've done.
Do you copy route information straight out of a guidebook?
No! That would be kind of pointless. Every route on the page has been climbed by somebody here at climbingboulder.com, or has been climbed by someone who has sent the info in (ie. the Team).

Were you guys getting sued or something?
Uh.... we probably shouldn't talk about it. If you're really interested, contact us and we'll explain why we won't talk about it.

Why don't you have a xxxxxx on xxxxxx xxxxxx yet? It's a sweet climb!
We probably haven't climbed it yet. And we might not get there soon. So tell us about it! We'll put it up on the site.

Hey, the page for xxxxxxx is missing stuff? Why don't you fix it?
We spend too much time on this web page as it is, so it's sometimes tough to do that QA type of stuff. Tell us what's missing on what page; we'll fix it, we promise.

Meadroon@aol.com: Your FA: unknowns is lame, especially in Dream Canyon. Everyone knows that Bob Horan put up those 4 pitch routes, how ignorant especially when it in the references you qoute, Another proagated site from what I'm starting to see.

Yup, there's stuff on the site that's wrong. We'll try and fix this right away, and we're not trying to cheat Bob out of his credit due. This database is constantly changing, improving. Unfortunately, this isn't like a book, where we can improve improve improve, and THEN come out with a copy. You get to see all the ugly middle sections, where there's typos, missing pictures, misspellings, etc.

Didn't I see you in the newspaper or something?
Why, yes! We've had two newspaper articles on us so far. We've also seen some other recognition. Here.


FLAG
By Michael Komarnitsky
Founding Father
From Seattle, WA
Jun 6, 2006
Myke Komarnitsky




From the Left: Shaun, Myke, and Ben.

Myke Komarnitsky - E-mail
Myke graduated May 11, 2001 with a bachelor's degree in Aerospace Engineering from University of Colorado at Boulder. He spends too much time in front of the computer, and not enough time outside on the rock. Originally from Bellevue, Washington, he is the youngest of 4 brothers and 1 sister. When he was five years old, he ran into the edge of a table and had to get eight stiches on his forehead to get it to stop bleeding like a stuck pig. Check out his family's web page here. Currently he runs Komar Consulting Group, a Boulder, Colorado-based consulting company specializing in web-enabled database applications, web hosting, professional services, and of course, this web site.

Ben Mottinger - E-mail
Ben (Lu Lu Bell) works in Boulder, CO full-time for a major aerospace company now and is nearly officially a weekend warrior. He enjoys alpine climbing in RMNP and other states.

Shaun Miller - E-mail
Started on the web site. M-CAT studying has pulled him away to more wordly endeavors than this. Currently, he is planning on traveling to Samoa in the fall of 2000 to get practical medical experience with the super sweet Doctors of the World.


FLAG
By Michael Komarnitsky
Founding Father
From Seattle, WA
Jun 6, 2006
Myke Komarnitsky

Our Old News stories. Some highly entertaining stuff in there mixed in with an incredible amount of important-then, boring-now topics.
-----

News
Thank You, and Good Night Tue Jan 17 07:30:46 2006
Hey everyone,

I wanted to write you a final note of thanks. Almost 6 years ago Ben Mottinger and I (and our drinking buddy Shaun Miller) started this site. The site blew up, becoming much bigger than we had ever imagined - garnering awards, being the setting of a R&I cover story, helping us to meet girls, and 'making the world a better place.'

I mean it. Climbers in the areas that these sites have served are better off than before we existed. You all are able to find cooler routes and actually go do them. More redpoints, more whippers, more epics, more great stories.

Why did it succeed? Sure, we get a slice of the credit, because we built some cool tools and sold some t-shirts. But it really is all of you - a group of people that want to contribute and give back to their community. We couldn't have come up with Your Mother, Sven Lavransen, or any of the rich debates over chipping.

So, thank you. Thank you for making this endeavor a huge success. Thank you for making it fun. And thank you for continuing its mission.

For me, I'm graduating from Georgetown's MBA program this May, and looking for a strategy consulting job (anyone from Bain/BCG/etc want to get me in their spring hiring cycle?). It's not climbing, but it's the right thing for me. May all you continue to find the right things in life for you, and have the courage to go do them. - Myke Komarnitsky
ClimbingBoulder.com is now READ-ONLY Tue Jan 17 07:13:44 2006
Hey everyone, I turned off the cgi-bins to the site this morning. That means that the site is now read-only - additions are no longer allowed. Head on over to MountainProject.com to add your contributions.

It's been a great run with climbingboulder.com, and I'm excited to see this experiment go to the next level with MountainProject.com.

- Myke Komarnitsky
CCH Alien Recall Thu Jan 12 20:31:36 2006
Colorado Custom Hardware, (CCH) has recently completed an investigation and extensive testing to identify and isolate safety issues concerning the brazing on CCH Alien cams. The safety of our customers is our number one priority.
Testing has revealed that there was a brazing issue with specific cams made after November 2004. The units to be identified are marked with a small center punch dimple at the base of the round ball where the axle goes through the cable eye. Although few failures have been reported, CCH recommends immediately discontinuing the use of any Aliens with this mark. CCH is recalling the cams with the identifying punch mark. Please return them to CCH for a new replacement unit. You can mail your cams to:
Colorado Custom Hardware, Inc
ATTN: Brazing Recall
115 E. Lyon St
Laramie, WY 82072
If you are not sure if your cams are included in the recall, please contact us at (307)721-9385.
We sincerely apologize for this inconvenience and we are doing everything possible to correct it quickly. There will be a photograph on our web site to help to identify the cams that need to be returned. The Web site address: Aliencamsbycch.com
Sincerely,
Colorado Custom Hardware, Inc
115 E. Lyon St
Laramie, WY 82072 - John McNamee
CCH Aliens Update Wed Jan 11 18:18:05 2006
A couple of months ago I posted a note about some rumors of the orange alien failing during "normal" use. Since then there has been a lot of speculation on internet forums. Today on Supertopo.com there is a follow up to those earlier posts, including information from Paul Fish of Mountain Gear who undertook a series of tests of their current aliens in stock.

The tests show interesting results that if you are an owner of aliens you may wish to check out. Several of the units failed in pull tests, with the brazes failing and cables pulling. In CCH defence I don't know if the tests were undertaken in a controlled methodology, but still they are somewhat alarming.

On MountainProject News there is further information and updated links. Thanks to Ron Olsen for the update.

Message to Malcolm Daly, any chance of Trango designing a small, low profile cam, i.e. suited for Eldo! - John McNamee
Roger Briggs Slide Show - CMC Denver Tue Jan 10 12:15:53 2006
Legendary Homegrown Climber Roger Briggs presented by the CMC Denver Group's Tech Section, a living legend in the climbing community, will be in Golden Wednesday, February 22nd! The presentation, which includes a talk, slide show, and Q&A session, will begin at 7:00pm in the Foss Auditorium at the American Mountaineering Center (710 10th Street, Golden, CO - Washington & 10th).

Admission is FREE and open (to CMC) members AND non-members alike.

Anyone with even a passing interest in Colorado's storied climbing history will not want to miss this rare opportunity to hear from one of the sport's true icons. Briggs' feats include numerous first ascents (aid and free) of classic routes on the big walls of Yosemite, Eldorado Canyon, and Longs Peak's formidable east face known as the Diamond. Climbing magazine in December recognized Briggs for having completed his 100th ascent of the peak via the Diamond, a record that will not soon, if ever, be broken. But perhaps Briggs is best known for his 1991 performance in the Longs Peak Triathlon, in which he bicycled from Boulder to the Longs Peak trail head, ran up to the east face of the mountain, free-soloed the Casual Route, and touched the summit all in an astounding 5 hours, 45 minutes - a record which stands to this day. - John McNamee
New website to launch January 19th Mon Jan 9 18:59:53 2006
The launch date for the new cb.com website MountainProject has been delayed. The new switch over date is January 19th, 2006.

Sorry, but you will have to put up with us a little longer!

Remember, that if you have contributed before you will areadly have an account set up using your email address. Otherwise if you wish to contribute, you will have to create an account with a valid email account. No more AC!

When the site goes live on the 19th, cb.com's data will be imported, so please continue to add stuff to the current site. So, go and check it out and let us know what you think. - John McNamee
Climbing Courses offered at Lakeshore AC Mon Jan 9 08:53:38 2006
Women's Intro to Climbing Clinic
Wed Feb 1st and Wed Feb 8th 7-8:30 p.m. at Lakeshore Athletic Club (Broomfield) Come learn the basics of rock climbing with other women in a fun, non-competitive environment!
The first session will cover the basics of climbing, including equipment, knots and belaying.
The second session will cover climbing technique and movement.
Cost is $75 for Lakeshore members, $85 for non-members.
Sign up at the climbing wall or e-mail Alexis.Alloway@LakeshoreAthleticClubs.com

Learn to Lead Climb
Thu Feb 2nd and Thu Feb 9th 7-8:30 p.m. at Lakeshore Athletic Club (Broomfield)
Prerequisites: You must be belay certified and a 5.9 climber Learn skills necessary for lead climbing, such as belaying a leader, proper clipping, rope management, and technique.
Cost is $100 for Lakeshore members, $115 for non-members Sign up at the climbing wall or e-mail scottstrode@hotmail.com

Little Monkeys Kids Climbing Class (ages 5-9)
Two Sessions at Lakeshore Athletic Club (Broomfield):
- Mondays from 2/20-3/13 from 4:30-5:30 p.m.
- Tuesdays from 2/21-3/14 from 4:30-5:30 p.m.
Give your child private climbing lessons that help them learn to rock climb in a fun, age-appropriate setting. Classes cover strength and balance exercises, climbing games, and instruction on basic technique.
Sign up at the climbing wall today or e-mail Alexis.Alloway@LakeshoreAthleticClubs.com
- John McNamee
Lakewood Rec., Climbing Competition Sat Dec 31 17:31:25 2005
Lakewood Rec. centers are hosting an upcoming comp."Rock Steady" climing comp will be hosted at the Lakewood Link Recreation Center on January 27th.It is a roped up comp. with a red-point format. So all you rope guns, dirt bags, etc.. . come out and compete for stellar prizes from La Sportiva, Black Diamond, Wilderness Exchange, Evolv climbing shoe co.,Bent Gate Mountaineering, Cloudveil, Prana, Climbing magazine, and the City of Lakewood. hope to see you all there.

For any info concerning the competition Contact either Jessica Fabio at jesfab@lakewood.org or seacon@lakewood.org. Another option is to contact the Lakewood Link, (303)987-5400 or online - John McNamee
Lakeshore Athletics, Learn to Lead Cse Thu Dec 29 11:24:36 2005
The climbing wall at Lakeshore Athletic Club in Broomfield is running a learn-to-lead class in January open to anyone.

The learn-to-lead class will be the first 2 Wednesdays in January (two 1.5 hour sessions) and it runs $115 for the general public. It's aimed at people who are solid 5.9 climbers and know how to belay. Contact info is Alexis.Alloway@LakeshoreAthleticClubs.com - John McNamee
New area Added Sun Dec 25 10:17:32 2005
A new area called Estes Park area crags was just approved, submitted by - Leo Paik
New British Alpinism Website Wed Dec 21 11:42:32 2005
Here's a new website put up by the British hardman Andy Kirkpatrick. Psychovertical
It's full of long, in-depth articles on cutting edge techniques in rock, snow and ice climbing. There is some pretty good stuff here. - John McNamee
Suit by Climber's Family Dismissed Tue Dec 20 07:21:17 2005
A federal judge rules that Yosemite park officials weren't obligated to post warnings at the site of a deadly rockfall.

A federal judge threw out a $10-million wrongful-death lawsuit brought by the family of a young rock climber killed in a 1999 slide in Yosemite Valley, short-circuiting a legal battle that some climbers feared could threaten a mecca of the sport.

In a largely technical decision, the U.S. District Court judge in Fresno ruled last week that Yosemite National Park officials were acting within their discretionary duties when they didn't post warnings at the base of Glacier Point, site of the rockfall that killed 21-year-old Peter Terbush.

If you want to read the decision you can download it from Supertopo at: this link - John McNamee
New climbingboulder Website Sun Dec 18 18:52:09 2005
We invite you to check out the new Beta site that Myke, Nick and Andy have developed. This site is more than just a redesign, it's a totally new concept that combines all of the member sites into a "super site". Its got lots of neat features, including, awesome search capabilites, tick lists, to-do lists, message boards and much, much more.

To check it out click on the following link New Climbing Boulder Website

If you have contributed before you will areadly have an account set up using your email address. Otherwise if you wish to contribute, you will have to create an account with a valid email account. No more AC!

When the site is ready to go live, cb.com's current data will be imported, so please continue to add stuff to the current site. However, account information and discussion in the forums will be retained.

Please add any comments, suggestions, feedback, whatever in the Public Beta Discussion Forum. With your help we hope to make this the best climbing resource and community site on the web! - John McNamee
Comp #3 of the SPOT BOULDERING SERIES Thu Dec 8 11:22:27 2005
Where: The Spot
When: Friday December 9th
What: Comp #3 of the SPOT BOULDERING SERIES!
Registration 5:00 to 6:00
Climbing Comp from 6:00 to 9:00

$20 per comp for ABS Members
(an extra $5 ABS Daypass for non-ABS Members) - Frances Fierst
Chairlift Ads get USFS Nod Wed Dec 7 07:53:15 2005
Since its too damn cold for rock climbing...

If you have ever skied at Aspen or Snowmass recently you may have noticed ads for cars, credit cards and private jet clubs, etc on the safety bar of your chair while riding. It's basically in your face and you can't miss it.

The Forest Service in all their wisdom has determined that the adds are acceptable and that safety bars on chairlifts are "interior spaces" and therefore no different than inside buildings.

See the RockyMountainNews Chairlift ads get Forest Sevice Nod item for more details.

The USFS is asking for public input so please send an email to rhr2300@fs.fed.us to try to stop this craziness! Thanks - - John McNamee
Mike Donahue Passes Away Thu Dec 1 08:42:43 2005
Mike Donahue, owner of the Colorado Mountain School, died on November 16 from a malignant brain tumor. He was 59. Donahue came from a long line of climbers, and was the author of the 1992 trail guide "The Longs Peak Experience." His maternal grandfather built the north Longs Peak trail in the 1920s and 30s. Donahue became an assistant guide and then later a full guide while in his teens. His clients included the first blind climbers to summit Longs Peak as well as the first paraplegic to summit the peak. One of his climbing partners was Beck Wethers, who gained fame as one of the American survivors of the 1996 Mount Everest disaster. In 2003, when Donahue was diagnosed with the malignant brain cancer, he was said to have stood on the summit of Longs Peak 250 times. He is survived by his parents, his wife, his three children, his brothers, and two grandchildren.

For more details, click on the link: Denver Post - John McNamee
Employment - Access Fund Mon Nov 28 09:11:14 2005
The Access Fund has the following position available:

BUSINESS AND FINANCE MANAGER (BFM)

The BFM reports to and works closely with the Executive Director to ensure transfer of information and fulfillment of duties as assigned. Duties and responsibilities include managing daily financial activities, human resources administration, financial reporting, budgeting, contracts and general operations of the Access Fund. The BFM must know, support and espouse Access Fund policy positions and statements. The BFM is employed at the Access Fund's national headquarters in Boulder, Colorado and maintains an office in this facility.

For more info and to apply. - John McNamee
The Spot Comp #2 Thu Nov 17 20:16:17 2005
Spot Bouldering Series continues with Comp #2 Friday, November 18th!!! Comp # 2 out of 4 in the Spot Bouldering Series (SBS).
Registration 5:00 to 6:00
Climbing Comp 6:00 to 9:00

As an extra special treat we'll be giving evryone a free beer ticket, some pizza, & the chance to win some booty in the BESAST WITH TWO BACKS three-legged-climbing event!

Your top three comps are averaged together to determine the season winners. you missed Comp #1 ... no worries.
You can still win the SBS in your division!!!
- Frances Fierst
Don't Let Congress Sell Our Public Lands Tue Nov 15 12:12:47 2005
TAKE ACTION NOW! Don't Let Congress Sell Our Public Lands. Call your US Representative Today! Congress could vote at any time in the next two weeks.

The week of November 14 Congress is likely to consider a proposal to sell off millions of acres of national forests, parks and other public lands as a means to reduce the federal deficit and “reform” the mining laws at the same time. Once sold, these public lands become private, potentially fencing out climbers and the millions of recreational enthusiasts that regularly use them. The mining subtitle in the Deficit Reduction Act of 2005 (AKA the Budget Reconciliation bill) proposes to lift the decade-long moratorium on mining patents, and clears the way to sell off many of our valued public lands without environmental studies or public input.

What this means for climbers is that we could lose access to any climbing area located on or next to any existing mining claim, including the access trails to your favorite crag. Once sold, these lands—which belong to the American people and are enjoyed by millions of private recreational users each year—could become off limits for climbing, boating, hiking, and any other recreational use. If this provision is approved, any land speculator could buy our crags for as low as $1,000 per acre, and the land would not have to even be mined - any corporation could buy these lands and use them for any purpose. As much as 270 million acres could be threatened under this proposal and, adding insult to injury, these sales could happen with no public input from the recreational users that frequent these special places.

Your call to Congress could save your public lands access. Call your US Representative (go to w ww.visi.com/juan/congress/ to find your US Representative) by Tuesday and stress the following points:



If passed into law, this law would make the 1872 Mining Law worse, by placing climbing areas and other special places at risk by allowing mining companies to purchase mining claims even if they are within a protected area such as national parks or wilderness areas.
As much as 20 million acres out of 270 million acres of public land cold be sold off. This mining "reform" proposal, which has not been publicly debated, should receive public hearings in the relevant resource committees rather than being slipped through Congress in a budget bill.
The mining subtitle will enable U.S. and foreign companies to buy our American heritage without any proof that the lands can and should be used for mineral development, and without regard for the other uses and needs for these lands, including water quality protection, wildlife habitat and recreation. As regular users of public lands, the climbing community opposes this wholesale disposal of our treasured public land resources.
Please oppose the mining “reform” provisions in the Budget Reconciliation bill.

The Access Fund - Frances Fierst
Today is Veteran's Day Fri Nov 11 12:47:46 2005
Please make sure to thank a veteran today. And if you didn't see the article in the Rocky Mountain News, you really should read it here - Myke Komarnitsky
Omega Pacific Notice of Voluntary Recall Wed Nov 9 20:44:26 2005
In cooperation with the US Consumer Product Safety Commision (CPSC), Omega Pacific is voluntary recalling a small percentage of Five-O Screwgate locking carabiners built between November and December of 2004.

Carabiners affected by this recall can be potentially opened under moderate loads even when properly locked and must be returned for replacement.

Only carabiners marked with the lot stamp “VT” are affected. The lot number can be found on the backside of the spine and is clearly identified. Do not return any lots other than “VT” as no other lots are subject to this issue. No other models are affected. Only Five-O locking carabiners with the lot stamp “VT” (as displayed) are considered under this action. Please do not return carabiners to retailers. Instead, please ship any affected carabiners directly to Omega Pacific. Please mark all packages with “Attn: Warranty Returns, RA 728.” Be sure to include your name and shipping address where we can deliver a replacement Five-O locking carabiner.

All returns or inquiries can be directed to:
Omega Pacific Customer Service
11427 W. 21st Avenue
Airway Heights, WA 99001
Attn: Warranty Returns, RA 728

If you have any questions, please call us at 800-360- 3990 or email at info@omegapac.com We sincerely apologize for the inconvenience this may cause.

— Omega Pacific, Inc. - Frances Fierst
Employment - Access Fund Tue Nov 8 07:05:22 2005
The Access Fund is hiring an Associate Programs Director to provide the support necessary for local activists to successfully achieve our shared vision and take direct action when necessary and appropriate to achieve Access Fund_s mission objectives. Work is accomplished through grassroots support programs and direct action campaigns that empower local climbing communities to address access and conservation concerns through outreach, advocacy, education and stewardship for more info and to apply. - John McNamee
Day ascent of Nose and FR by Caldwell! Tue Nov 1 10:21:23 2005
On October 30-31, Tommy Caldwell free climbed both The Nose and Freerider in a combined time of 23 hours and 23 minutes. He started October 30 at 1:03 am and cruised up The Nose in 11 hours with his wife Beth Rodden who belayed and jumared. On the crux 5.14a Changing Corners pitch he took two short falls before sending the pitch on his third go. After a few minutes of food and rest on the summit, he ran down the East Ledges descent and was back in El Cap Meadow just before 1pm. Chris McNamara was his belayer/jumarer for the second leg of the link-up. Sarting up the Freerider at 1:36pm, topping out at 12:26am, 10 hours and 50 minutes after starting. See the news on supertopo's web site. What an amazing accomplishment! - John McNamee
Lumpy Trailhead Parking area to move Mon Oct 31 16:53:06 2005
The Twin Owls carpark at Lumpy ridge is going to be a thing of the past soon. Personally, I don't see it as a "win win" situation for trail users and the MacGregor Ranch, but you can read the news item in today's Rocky Mountain News and decide yourself. - John McNamee
FHRC Public Meeting and Vote Mon Oct 31 08:31:42 2005
FHRC Public Meeting and Vote
When: 7pm, November 01, 2005
Where: The Spot Bouldering Gym

For fall 2005, the Flatirons has one new application for New Fixed Hardware on the south face of the Red Devil on Dinosaur Mtn. Please review the application (www.flatironsclimbing.com/fhrc/current.php) and post your comments.

The Flatirons Climbing Council's Fixed Hardware Review committee will be holding a Public Meeting and vote in connection with this new application on November 1st, 7pm at The Spot Bouldering Gym (3240 Prairie Ave, Boulder). - Frances Fierst
The Warrior's Way is coming to Colorado Fri Oct 28 09:24:17 2005
Hello,
I'll be giving slideshow presentations and teaching mental fitness clinics in November.
Arno Ilgner

Clinics
Tuesday 1st - The Spot in Boulder (6-10pm) for boulderers only
Thursday 3rd - The Spot in Boulder (6-10pm) for boulderers only
Saturday 5th - Rock'n & Jam'n in Denver (9am-1pm) for boulderers only
Sunday 6th - Rock'n & Jam'n in Denver (9am-1pm) for rope climbers only
Tuesday 8th - The Rock at soc and roll in Colo Spgs (6-10pm) for rope climbers only
Thursday 10th - Inner Strength in Ft. Collins (6-10pm) for rope climbers only

Slideshow Presentations
Wednesday 2nd - Mesa State College (Over the Edge Sports) in Grand
Junction, 7:30pm
Friday 4th - Rock'n & Jam'n in Denver, 8pm
Sunday 6th - Mont Bell in Boulder, 7pm
Monday 7th - The Rock at soc and roll in Colo Spgs, 8pm
Wednesday 9th - Inner Strength in Ft. Collins, 8pm

Clinic Description - The Warrior's Way Espresso Course
The Warrior's Way mental fitness clinics teach how to
focus attention during the climbing process, especially when we are most apt to seek escape. By learning how to focus attention we reduce our fears and improve our commitment.

You'll learn to:

  • Develop self awareness
  • Stay centered
  • Fall [for rope climbing clinics]
  • Improve commitment
  • Improve fluidity
  • Reduce doubts
  • Improve problem-solving skills
  • Reduce fear, and more

Content of the class:
You'll be on lead or toprope, depending on the amount of leading experience you have. The exercises will begin on moderately difficult routes, then falling practice, and finally a challenging climb.
What to expect:
We'll begin by learning how to break a climb into decision points. Second, we'll learn to notice the type of thoughts we typically have. Third, we'll work on staying centered. Fourth, we'll practice falling. Fifth, we'll work on improving fluidity. Finally, we learn how to prepare and commit at these decision point.
Equipment Needed:
Rope clinics: Harness, shoes, belay device, helmet, and a rope and draws (if you have them).
Bouldering clinics: Shoes, chalk

Course length: 4 hours
Investment: $60
Max number: 6
Meeting place: at the gym
How to register: at the gym - Frances Fierst
Steph Davis - Salathe Wall free Thu Oct 27 12:24:06 2005
On October 23, 2005 Steph Davis became the first woman to free El Cap's Salathe Wall (VI 5.13b/c). See Climbing Mag's Hot Flashes for details. - John McNamee
New area Added Sat Oct 22 19:56:14 2005
A new area called Bovine Arena & Tom's Trove was just approved, submitted by - Tom Hanson
Jeff Achey Slide Show - Moab, Oct. 22nd Wed Oct 19 22:17:00 2005
If you happen to be in Moab this weekend... Jeff Achey will be presenting a Slide Show of his desert adventures during the 70s and 80s in Indian Creek. Showing at the Mondo Café in the Eddie McStiff's Plaza, at 8.00 p.m, Saturday night, October 22nd.

Donations at the door will be gratefully received. Money from door and raffle will benefit Seekhaven, Moab's Women's Shelter and Family Crisis Center.

Also to raise awareness of Indian Creek Access Issues and the Friends of Indian Creek. Help to preserve the unique and primitive nature of Indian Creek. Prevent crag closures, developed campsites and fee systems. Friends of Indian Creek T-shirts will be for sale. - John McNamee
Horsetooth Hang - Sunday 23rd October Wed Oct 19 12:12:33 2005
The 10th Annual Horsetooth Hang at Rotary park, Horsetooth Reservoir, is scheduled for Sunday, October 23. The non-profit event includes six hours of bouldering and top roping, a trash cleanup and the famed Horsetooth Hang party and awards ceremony. Prizes for volunteers (by raffle) and climbers who collect a bag of trash from the climbing areas. For more info check out the Northern Colorado Climbers Coalition websitefor details. - John McNamee
Nose Free one day ascent by Caldwell Tue Oct 18 12:25:22 2005
Three days after climbing the Nose free with his partner Beth Rodden-Caldwell, Tommy Caldwell pulled off a one day free ascent with one fall on the changing corners pitch.(14a) Amazing! For more details see climbing magazine's hot flashes Its the second time a one-day ascent has been accomplished. The first by Lynn Hill in 1994. (2nd free ascent) Must be Beth's turn next! - John McNamee
Free Ascent of the Nose, El Cap Sat Oct 15 13:11:00 2005
Tommy Caldwell and Beth Rodden successfully free climbed the Nose route on El Cap over four days (worked on it for several weeks) for the 3rd ascent, topping out on 14 October. You can read the press release at climbing mags website. Another incredible send by this team! - John McNamee
Warning about new CCH orange Aliens Fri Oct 14 10:42:37 2005
On the Supertopo Web site there has been a discussion the last couple of days warning people about purchasing new orange Aliens due to the axle being in the wrong place. I'm no authority on aliens but the comments and the pictures certainly make you wonder about whether there is a faulty batch out there.

If you have purchased any orange Aliens lately it might be worth while calling CCH at (307)721-9385 for details. Apparently, although the issue is known about, they are not doing a recall! - John McNamee
Friend's of Indian Creek Slide Show Fri Oct 14 07:37:44 2005
If you happen to be at Indian Creek this weekend, Jeff Achey is going to be presenting a Slide Show Of his desert adventures in the 70s and 80s.

The purpose is to raise awareness of Indian Creek Access Issues Organized by the Friends of Indian Creek. Help us to preserve the unique and primitive nature of Indian Creek and keep access to our favorite crags, at the Pasture Creek Camping area, Indian Creek 8.00 p.m.

Donations will be gratefully received for the Friends of Indian Creek.

How to get there: From Moab take Route 191 South out of town. After approximately 40 miles, look for a Canyonlands National Park sign on the Right. Take a Right onto Route 211 and do an odometer check. At 12.3mi you will pass Newspaper Rock on your Right. At 19.5mi you will pass the Reservoir. Approaching 27.0mi you will pass a paved scenic pull-out on your right. At 27.0 mi take a right onto a gated dirt road marked by yellow balloons tied to the gate. Go through the gate, and 0.4mi to the campsite.

For more details about the FOIC check out their website or email the mailing list, please email friendsofindiancreek@hotmail.com to join the mailing list. - John McNamee
Chicks on Cracks - Crack Clinics Thu Oct 13 18:23:27 2005
Presented by Moab Desert Adventures and hosted by Emma Medara and Lisa Hathaway

Impeccable red sandstone, splitter desert cracks, the chance to improve your trad climbing skills under the tutelage of some of the most skilled, enthusiastic and experienced female climbers of the genre...

2005 is the third year of Chicks on Cracks, and this year two events are planned. The first event to be held the weekend of October 22nd & 23rd, will be a grassroots level event, more suited to beginners. The main event which features all our guest guides, fantastic prizes from our sponsors and slide show will be the weekend of November 5th & 6th. For more information on price, agenda, how to register, etc, click here

Or email emma@moabdesertadventures.com or call 435 260 2404 or 1-877-ROK MOAB (toll free). - John McNamee
Splitter Camps at Indian Creek Wed Oct 12 09:41:57 2005
Just got back from attending Montrail's Splitter camp at Indian creek and if you ever get the opportunity to go next year, I'd highly recommend it. The camp was held over three days at Indian creek with Jim Donini as the Host. It was the first time I had met Jim, and his fire-side stories were worth the price of admission alone!

Lisa Nelson and her crew of helpers produced gourmet meal after gourmet meal. Breakfast, lunch, snacks and dinner were provided as part of the three day package. ($350.00) No one loss any weight! There was also some great swag from Trango (thanks Malcolm) and Marmot. Shoe deals from Montrail for 40 bucks and 40% off PMI ropes rounded things off! Needless to say we felt like we were pretty well taken care of.

There were 24 "clients" and about 10 guides so depending on abilities and group size there was either a 1:2 or 1:3 ratio. The emphasis was on top roping and working on technique on climbs in the 5.10 to 5.11+ range on all crack sizes. We generally top roped between 8 and 10 pitches a day depending on energy levels. Sometimes climbs were TR'ed multiple times while working on ring locks, stacks, etc. Needless to say we were pretty worked by the end of the day.

After the camp on Tuesday we had grandiose plans to send some routes but with the exception of my climbing partner Eric who ran up Supercrack we got shut down due to just having empty tanks.

Next year Montrail is hoping to hold Splitter camps in the Spring and the Fall and also have a Desert Tower camp as well. During the winter there is a chance that an ice camp will be held at the Ouray Ice Park. I'll post details as I find out. - John McNamee
Rifle Park Climber Clean Up - Oct 15 Wed Oct 12 07:32:49 2005
On Saturday, October 15th starting at 9am, Climbing Magazine will be hosting the 2005 Rifle Mountain Park Climber Clean Up Party (An Access Fund Adopt-a-Crag Event)

The annual clean-up is a gesture of goodwill to the City of Rifle for their generous support of climbing in their city park. Volunteers will be handing out trash bags supplied by the Access Fund at the entrance to the park, the campground, and at the main warm-up crags. Over the course of the day climbers pick up whatever trash they can find. Normal cragging activities are barely affected by the effort - you can still send the proj!

As fun and valuable as the actual clean-up is, the real reason to show up is the party and gear raffle. At 5 p.m. at the community house above the campground, the keg donated by Avery Brewing Company will get tapped, the barbecue furnished by Climbing Magazine will commence and music provided by the legendary DJ, Underground Chuck, will begin. Products donated by Asana Packworks, Black Diamond, Petzl, Sterling, Prana, Trango, the Access Fund, Wolverine Publishing, Krieg, Evolv and Climbing Magazine will be raffled off over the course of the evening.

The Rifle Mountain Park Climber Clean-up is one of the biggest climbing parties of the year and a must-attend for anyone that climbs at Rifle. For additional information contact BJ Sbarra at Climbing Magazine: bjsbarra@climbing.com, (970) 704-2613. - John McNamee
Annual Lumpy Ridge Trails Day Tue Oct 4 08:43:57 2005
The AAC is hosting the 5th annual Lumpy Trails day. Join us on Oct. 15 at 7:30am to help repair the badly eroded upper Twin Owls approach trail and the Little Twin Owls trail and bouldering area. Meet at the Estes Park Town Hall parking lot (MacGregor Ave and Elkhorn), free coffee, dounuts, and lunches provided. Plus gifts for all volunteers. Trail work is planned from 8 - 4 and dress accordingly. Download the flyer for more details. - John McNamee
New area Added Mon Oct 3 18:47:40 2005
A new area called East L.A. was just approved, submitted by - Clay Young
Access Fund Adopt-A-Crag Thu Sep 29 21:59:33 2005
TABLE MOUNTAIN VOLUNTEER WORK DAYS - 29th and 30th October.

The Rocky Mountain Field Institute is hosting a work weekend at the Table Mountain climbing area near Golden on the 29 and 30th of October. We'll be building staging areas below the climbs, which will involve rock work, building retaining walls. We are looking for about 25 volunteers for this Access Fund Adopt-A-Crag event. The property was purchased by the Access Fund to preserve it's access to climbers.

Please register with our office: 719-471-7736, or rmfibox@qwest.net.We require a release form signed by each volunteer, and will email you the form when you register.

Meet at 8:30 am Saturday and Sunday mornings in the parking lot (we'll send you directions). Work until 3 pm.

Bring water bottle, lunch, workgloves, rain gear, wear weather appropriate sturdy clothes and shoes. RMFI will supply all tools needed, and we can loan you size large leather gloves.

Crew Leaders: We will train crew leaders on Saturday, October 23. Let us know if you are interested.

We will have copies of Arno Ilgner's The Rock Warrior's Way to give away. - John McNamee
Flatirons New Fixed Hardware Application Tue Sep 27 21:41:18 2005
For fall 2005, the Flatirons has one new application for New Fixed Hardware on the south face of the Red Devil on Dinosaur Mtn. Please review the application and post your comments.

The Flatirons Climbing Council_s Fixed Hardware Review Committee will be holding a Public Meeting and vote in connection with this new application on Oct 26, 7pm at The Spot Bouldering Gym (3240 Prairie Ave., Boulder).

All are encouraged to attend and we thank you in advance for your involvement. - John McNamee
Recent rockfall in Eldorado Canyon Tue Sep 27 21:37:28 2005
There has been recent rockfall from the March of Dimes area on the Bastille in Eldorado. Two chunks (appx 3x3x2') fell on 17 Sept, and were moved to the side of the roadway. On 21 Sept, I climbed onto the area to assess the potential for more rockfall. I cleaned out several blocks of similar size. The area of rockfall originated left of the bolts that are commonly used to toprope the first pitch of March of Dimes and other boulder problems at the base of the Bastille (this is left of Bastille Crack, etc.). It is usual to scramble up to set the toprope near this rockfall area. It would be better advised to approach the anchors from the right (Werk Supp) side. Extreme caution is advised until the park staff can mitigate this area. - Mic Fairchild
Fund Raising event for the Access Fund. Fri Sep 23 16:13:47 2005
Hans Florine will be presenting "A few short and fast stories with Hans Florine” on Thursday, September 29th at 8pm, at EMS in Boulder. (Arapahoe Village Shopping Center at 2550 Arapahoe Avenue)

$7 at the door, all proceeds will benefit the Access Fund. There will also be a gear auction! - John McNamee
Lakewood Climbing Comps needs sponsors.. Wed Sep 21 15:58:06 2005
We are contacting businesses on behalf of the city of Lakewood to seek support to hold our inaugural climbing competition. The competition will be held at the city's Lakewood Link recreation center, on our 2,000 sq. ft. indoor climbing wall. We offer a variety of successful climbing programs and classes for all ages and abilities, and we are trying to build on that success by hosting a competition on Jan 27th, 2005. We are currently looking for businesses to assist us in our venture by donating or supplying any promotional items, products, gift certificates, or other items of that nature to provide to our participants and winners. You will have the opportunity to expose your brand and product as well as generate further interest in rock climbing. All of our sponsors will be acknowledged at our event. We look forward to organizing a safe and fun event, and thank you for your consideration in supporting the rock climbing community. Please feel free to contact us with any questions that you may have.

Sincerely,
Jessica Fabio
Climbing Wall Coordinator
303.987.5430
jesfab@lakewood.org - Frances Fierst
Thanks for all the site corrections Tue Sep 20 12:56:40 2005
Thanks for all the corrections we have been getting lately. We are trying to improve the accuracy of the site, first ascents, pro, etc and your input is really helping us out. So please keep it coming. - John McNamee
Trail workers needed at Indian Creek Tue Sep 20 12:53:31 2005
The Rocky Mountain Field Institute will host a volunteer weekend at Indian Creek on the weekend of October 15-16. We will be finishing the new segment to the Cat Wall Trail (West End) and making general repairs to the trails in and around Donnelley Canyon. We would like to have a great turn-out from the local climbing community. Folks interested in participating should contact Liz Nichol at rmfibox@qwest.net to register. - John McNamee
Thanks to the Trash Bash Volunteers Fri Sep 16 10:39:05 2005
About 760 lbs. of trash and debris was removed from Flagstaff on Wednesday evening.
Thank you...Tevis Blom, OSMP
- Frances Fierst
Rattlesnake Ramble Trail Race in Eldo Tue Sep 13 20:06:56 2005
ACE (Action Committee for Eldorado) is putting on a trail race in Eldorado Canyon State Park at 8 a.m. on September 17th. This is the only trail race in Boulder County and will hopefully be the start of local trail races. For that to happen we need to fill this race and there are only 50 slots available. If we fill the race and everything goes smoothly, we can hopefully expand the race to 100 next year.

The race is sponsored by two stellar local companies: La Sportiva and GoLite. They will be providing prizes for the race. Please sign up for this race right away. It costs $30 or $40 with a T-shirt. It is a bit pricey, but it is a fund raising event. All the money raised goes to trail building in Eldorado Canyon State Park. If you can't run or don't like running, please volunteer to help out.

The course is 4.1 miles long with 850 feet of climbing and mostly on single-track trails. It is good, technical, fast running with two out-and-backs so that you can see what's happening at the front of the race.

Here's the race link:

www.aceeldo.org

or sign up on Active.com

www.active.com

- Ben Mottinger
Friends of Indian Creek Tue Sep 13 18:27:15 2005
Grassroots Advocacy Group Formed to Represent Climbers' Interests at Indian Creek, UT

The Friends of Indian Creek recently organized as a volunteer climbing advocacy group that seeks to preserve the unique and undeveloped character of Indian Creek while also providing necessary funding and other resources for stewardship projects and outreach efforts to ensure the conservation of the valued and world-class recreational, natural and cultural resources found at Indian Creek.

The mission of the Friends of Indian Creek is to preserve the unique experience we all love at Indian Creek. We support dispersed free camping, reasonable management policies, access to crags, limited development and a voice in future land management decisions. Our vision includes responsible recreation to ensure the conservation of Indian Creek's natural resources and primitive character. To accomplish our mission, the Friends will raise funds for stewardship projects and provide outreach and education to the climbing community to assist in the protection of Indian Creek's unique qualities.

To become a free member, email friendsofindiancreek@hotmail.com and write in to express your views regarding how Indian Creek should be managed and your opinion about the proper role for the Friends group. The Friends will email you updates which can also be seen on the Friends of Indian Creek's website: www.moabdesertadventures.com/foic.htm - Frances Fierst
Reminder - Wednesday is the Trash Bash! Tue Sep 13 14:34:07 2005
Don't forget: It's time to cleanup our Mountain Parks, and BBQ with friends. The TRASH BASH starts with the registration at 5:00pm (after work), at the Flagstaff Mountain Summit (Stone Shelter at the Amphitheater Parking).

Give something back to the community, and take home some free shwag!! - Frances Fierst
Access Fund Survey - Win a Rope! Fri Sep 2 20:32:44 2005
Please take a few minutes to help the Access Fund keep climbing areas open and conserve the climbing environment by providing your valuable feedback in the 2005 Online Survey.

If you respond by 10/10/05 you will be entered in a drawing to WIN one of two 60m MAXIM ropes!

This survey will be used solely by the Access Fund. Your participation will assure our energy and resources are allocated properly to reflect the values and priorities of the greater climbing community. Providing us with your feedback is a direct and meaningful way for you to stand up for your interests as a climber.

TAKE THE SURVEY! - John McNamee
Climbers Federation Radio! Fri Sep 2 10:00:23 2005
Climbers Federation Radio is a full, professional radio show devoted to all aspects of the climbing community. It is available as a podcast on iTunes or for download at Rockgriping

Episodes so far have featured interviews with Hans Florine and Lynn Hill among many others. Be sure to check it out. - John McNamee
Flatiron Climbing Trail Work Opportunity Thu Sep 1 10:20:02 2005
The Flatiron Climbing Council is organizing a trail work project for the climber's trail off the Amphitheater Trail. This is a great opportunity to do some work for the climbing community and to forge a good working relationship with Boulder Open Space and Mountain Park staff, who have been open and helpful with climbers.

Meet at the Chautauqua Ranger Cottage on Oct 1, at 8.30am. People should bring gloves, work boots, food and water. OSMP supplies tools and materials. Contact FCC for details. - John McNamee
Don't be a Jerk! Wed Aug 31 18:49:19 2005
Recently we have been receiving some emails and comments about the "comments posting policy" so we thought now would be a good time to update everyone.

It's simply: Don't be a Jerk!

In other words please lets try to keep the site positive and helpful to the greater Colorado Climbing Community and not turn the site into a place for personal vandettas and slandering matches. If you want to do that I suggest you do it the old fashion way, or go to the pub and share a pint or two.

Without your input this site would suck, so plese keep those comments and route info coming in. If you have any concerns or suggestions for the site, please let one of the volunteer site admins know. Frances, Leo Paik and John. - John McNamee
Mountain Miser - Gear Swap! Tue Aug 30 12:58:35 2005
Mountain Miser will be running their annual fall gear swap on Saturday September 10th, starting at 9am. The swap will be held regardless of rain, shine or snow! As always, there will be hotdogs and plenty of FREE Cold Refreshments brought to you by Tommyknocker Brewery!

See the Mountain Miser site for details. - John McNamee
John F. Stoddard Tue Aug 30 10:53:34 2005
Cb.com would like to extend their deepest sympathy and condolences to family and friends of John Stoddard who passed away recently.

John F. Stoddard, of Nederland, died Monday, Aug. 15, 2005, in Nederland. The cause of death is pending a coroner's investigation. He was 49.

The son of Robert Stoddard and Margaret Whitlock Stoddard, he was born March 5, 1956, in Seattle. He married Sally Lang on Jan. 27, 1990, in Seattle. Mr. Stoddard moved to Coal Creek in 1998, and to Nederland in 2001.

He was a climber, mountaineer and cyclist.

He was "a loving husband, brother, father, grandfather and friend," his family said. "He will be terribly missed."

Survivors include his wife, of Nederland; a sister, Sandra Carson, of Fox Island, Wash.; a daughter, Lesley Temple, of Aurora; and a granddaughter. He was preceded in death by his parents.

Contributions in Mr. Stoddard's name may be made to the family, care of Peak National Bank, 26 Colo. 119 South, Nederland, CO 80466. - John McNamee
Call for boulderProject Web Developer Tue Aug 30 10:33:11 2005
The boulderProject is about how the climbers, the environment and access are interconnected. It depends on community and the power of the movement. Because of this, we're tossing the website to you.

We're looking for a young developer who is passionate about climbing and understands their role in the future of climbing. This project is open to highschool and college students only. You must submit samples/links of past web work/projects and anything else you think would help us make a decision. Include your name, email, phone, address, year in school, and a 200 word essay discussing your role in the future of climbing.

This is an unpaid project though we will set you up with a mondo gear package valued at over $500. This is a great way to build your portfolio, showcase your work, and give back to the climbing community.

E-Submissions only. Send to Media@accessfund.org with “yourname-boulderProject web” in the subject line. - Frances Fierst
Climbers Website for IPod Users Tue Aug 23 09:12:01 2005
Pod Climber, a climber's Podcast station looks like a pretty interesting website. I'm probably the only person out there that doesn't have a Ipod, but I still found it pretty cool! You can download, gear info, interviews, training tips, beta, etc. Check it out at pod climber - John McNamee
Rock Climbing Film Competition Wed Aug 17 17:44:13 2005
Spadout Rock Climbing Film Competition (SRCFC) is an international film competition allowing climbers from around the world to share their media.

Anyone can enter and submitting a film to SRCFC is completely free. The top five films will receive prizes from our sponsor gearExpress. The grand prize is a 300 dollar gear spree on gearEXPRESS.com! Check out the web site for details. - John McNamee
Beth Rodden Redpoints Ananaconda Wed Aug 17 16:49:31 2005
Beth Rodden recently made the first female free ascent of Annaconda (5.13b/c) at Lumpy Ridge. Prior to Beth's ascent, it had only received two other known free ascents by Alan Lester and Tommy Caldwell.

- John McNamee
New area Added Thu Aug 11 19:49:52 2005
A new area called non-RMNP/Alpine was just approved, submitted by - Leo Paik
Vertical Wall Self & Buddy Rescue Course Thu Aug 11 10:17:45 2005
With the assistance of the Eckart Roder Education Fund, the Technical Climbing Section of the CMC Denver Group will offer a Vertical Wall Self & Buddy Rescue program including: information from the AAC, AMGA, & MRA; lecture information from an AMGA Guide & The Alpine Rescue Team; accident analysis information from Jenny Lake Rangers & American Alpine Club; and field practical exercises on vertical terrain.

We climb because it's brilliant fun; technical climbing is considered by many to be the king of all sport. When the fun stops due to a climbing accident, it does so in most dramatic fashion, and what happens next could determine your fate. The Mountain Rescue Association (MRA) firmly believes that training and education are the keystones for effective search and rescue operations, and that climbers must accept responsibility for their actions by being able to utilize self-rescue as potentially the quickest and most effective method to resolve most rescue situations.

If you enjoy climbing, have you ever considered the possibility that you may need to assist your partner to safety? With education and training of a self-rescue program, you may be able to maintain you or your partner's well being & possibly survival chances by getting to anchor safety or off of vertical terrain should an accident occur.

In order to participate, you should have BMS, RSS, or equivalent experience participating in multi-pitch climbing/alpinism. The tentative schedule follows. The cost will be $145.00 for CMC/AAC members & $195.00 for non-members. Orientation will be September 22. Contact Mark Nelson at e-mail: rkymtn_alpine@yahoo.com for more information.

Activity Dates:
09/22/05 - Program Orientation & Overview (Evening @ AMC - Golden, CO)
09/25/05 - AMGA Gear & Anchor Presentation (Daytime @ AMC - Golden, CO)
09/29/05 - Lecture (Evening @ AMC - Golden, CO)
10/02/05 - Field Exercise (Daytime - TBD)
10/04/05 - Alpine Rescue Team/MRA(Evening @ ART Shack - Bergen Park, CO)*
10/06/05 - Lecture (Evening @ AMC - Golden, CO)*
10/15/05 - Field Exercise (Daytime - TBD)

  • Tentative - location & dates could be swapped, and/or lecture rescheduled to 10/05/05 (Evening @ AMC - Golden, CO) - John McNamee
Rack Simulator! Tue Aug 9 13:08:31 2005
I found this on the supertopo forum, a Rack Simulator. It allows you to create any rock climbing rack and graphically analyze the protectable area of the rack. The system also provides you with detailed statistics regarding the weight of the rack and an approximate cash value. For more details check out
Rack Simulator - John McNamee
A request to dog owners Sat Aug 6 09:15:40 2005
It is not OK for your dog to bark at, or approach in an aggressive manner, other climbers coming up to the crag. If your dog is territitorial and aggressive, leave it at home.

It is not OK for your dog to leave a pile of shit at the bottom of a crag. As of last Sunday, there is a big pile of dog shit at the bottom of the route Dead Can Dance at Avalon. This is unconscionable and should never happen. It is not the dog's fault, but the owners. CLEAN UP AFTER YOUR DOG or don't bring your dog.

This stuff is just common sense and common courtesy.

Come on people. We need to work together here. - Richard Rossiter
Catherdal Spires Update Fri Jul 29 09:35:04 2005
This morning I received some further news about the Catherdal Spires from a group that is working on the Jeffco Open Space Climbing Guidelines. The group includes: CMC, AMGA, AAC, Access Fund, CDOW, Jeffco OS and active local climbers.

Jeffco is trying to get an easement from Denver Water to gain legal access to the Spires. Upon which, they will be better able to effectively manage raptor nesting sites in the future as well as offer us access.

During Jeffco's initial request from the public on their Climbing Guidelines; we received several public comments, which all parties on the task force have been afforded copies. We are working delingently to address proper management of these lands so that climbers can continue to enjoy these areas as well as addressing the public concern.

Once we get the overall climbing guidelines redrafted, I believe Jeffco plans to offer them for review for more public comment. Then we will begin addressing each of their inventory areas for specific Climbing Management Plans (CMP).

Thanks to Mark Nelson, Chairperson - Tech Climbing Section, Dvr Group, Colorado Mountain Club for sharing this info. - John McNamee
Seasonal Closures - Catherdal Spires Thu Jul 28 19:10:04 2005
Earlier today I emailed jefferson county to find out whether the seasonal cloures for the greater Catherdal Spires region will be lifted on August 1. They confirmed that the closure will be lifted on Monday August 1, but also mentioned that "After checking with our Natural Resources staff, the closures will be lifted on August 1. However, you need to be aware that no public access exists for this Jefferson County Open Space property." I've contacted the Accessfund and once I hear back I'll post more info on the site. - John McNamee
So you want to be a movie star! Thu Jul 28 19:04:47 2005
I am working for a UK based production company on a documentary for National Geographic about the Hoover Dam. We are filming there in the latter part of August this year, and are keen to be able to film a sequence with some climbers/abseilers in Black Canyon. If you are able to put me in touch with a group who may be able to help with this, and may be willing to be filmed (the point of the sequence is just to illustrate how high and inhospitable the terrain is), that would be fantastic.
Kathryn Johnson, Assistant Producer, Darlow Smithson Productions Tel: +44(0)207 428 7735 kathryn.johnson@darlowsmithson.com> - John McNamee
Clear Creek Canyon Update Thu Jul 21 08:37:03 2005
A little more beta on Clear Creek Canyon. CCC is open for recreation starting at 9am and you need to be out of the canyon technically by 7pm. Be sure to show appreciation that they are even letting us get up there. Be safe. Thanks to Mike Crandall for sharing this. - John McNamee
Boulder OSMP Seasonal closures lifted! Fri Jul 15 12:28:41 2005
Raptor Nesting Closures for 2005 - Updated July 13, 2005

All cliff-nesting raptor closures have been lifted for 2005. Skunk Canyon, Third Flatiron all routes, Mickey Mouse Wall, Devil's Thumb ridge, Matron, Sacred Cliffs, Bear Creek Spire, Fern Canyon, and Amphitheater closures are now lifted. See the City of Boulder Press Release for the full story.

Thanks to Martin le Roux for letting me know! - John McNamee
Routes freed in Yosemite and Alaska Wed Jul 13 12:06:22 2005
Up in Alaska, Ryan Nelson and Jared Ogden free-climbed an existing route on the East Face of Mount Barrille in the Ruth Gorge. The 20 pitch route on the Cobra Pillar went at 5.11. They were successful on the third attempt after previously being foiled by bad weather.

In Yosemite, Lynn Hill made a one-day free ascent of the West Face of Leaning Tower and Katie Brown did a two day free ascent. The climb went at 5.13b A0, starting from the top of the 200-foot bolt ladder at the base of the wall.

For further details check out Climbing News - John McNamee
Comments Database Update - It's Fixed! Thu Jul 7 21:55:23 2005
Over the last couple of weeks we have received some feedback from contributors that their route comments have been disappearing! The good news is that this issue has now been resolved and several hundred comments restored. Kudos goes to Myke for in unraveling this mystery!

One of ClimbingBoulder's principle goals from the beginning was to provide a community forum for all of us to share experiences, opinions and information about routes. All we ask in return from contributors is “Don't be a jerk.”

Yes, we have been doing some clean up, some of it at the request of contributors and some of it by the site admins going through area by area. It is a very slow and tedious process and we hope that fixing obvious misspellings and removing inflammatory and vile stuff improves the site overall.

In the near future we have some exciting developments about to come online, with a major site upgrade that will provide additional features, greater functionality and management tools for contributors. I'll keep you all updated about this as it comes together.

In the meantime, thanks for your contributions & your patience, with this issue.
- John McNamee
Fundraising Event - Carbondale, July 15 Thu Jul 7 07:48:10 2005
On May 7th, Glenwood Springs resident Kurt Birkenmeier suffered serious head injuries in a climbing accident at Red Rocks. In the fall, Kurt fractured his skull, lost his hearing in one ear, and lost his senses of taste and smell. Two helicopter rides, five days in intensive care, and ensuing medical care has left him with enormous medical costs. Friends and fellow locals have gathered together to organize a spectacular fundraising event.

On Friday, July 15 the CRMS barn (Colorado Rocky Mountain School)in Carbondale, CO. will host a slideshow by two of the world's best rock climbers, the husband and wife duo, Tommy Caldwell and Beth Rodden. A silent auction and gear raffle will accompany the show.

There are thousands of dollars of prizes to be had! Doors open at 7 and slideshow begins at 8. $5 raffle tickets and $10 donation recommended at the door. For more information call Dave at 970-928-8955.

Also, join us afterwards for music at the Black Nugget featuring Coyote Gospel with $5 cover charge.
- John McNamee
Emily Harrington 2nd in World Champs Wed Jul 6 08:40:11 2005
Congratulations are due to Boulder climber Emily Harrington after placing second at the World Championships of lead climbing in Munich, Germany. Going into the final round placed 8th, she pulled one out of the bag to beat many of the world's best in the final round. - John McNamee
Access Fund Adopt-a-crag 2005 Challenge Tue Jul 5 10:35:33 2005
Boulder, CO, June 17, 2005- From Alaska to Georgia, Maine to California, Adopt-a-Crag is captivating the country like a superhero. While we might not all climb like Batman, Batwoman, or even Tommy Caldwell, together we will attempt to climb the 120 feet of Flex Luthor (metaphorically speaking of course because, umm, Flex Luthor is Tommy's 5.15a superhuman route) where each foot is represented by an Adopt-a-Crag event. From over-the-head kneebars, hand jams, finger locks, and thumbstacks, we all bring our own expertise that will enable us to jointly climb the incipient crack. As with all visions for success, we can't do it alone. The entire climbing community needs to join in this effort. Through a communal effort we can top-out and become the adventure heroes we have always known we are.

Adopt-a-Crag is an excellent avenue for building alliances and partnerships and to plan for the future. Be it a crag clean-up of 8 volunteers or a fundraiser, comp, and trail work day with 100 volunteers Adopt-a-Crag is about giving back to those places we love and use on a regular basis. Adopt-a-Crag inspires activism, advocacy, volunteerism, and stewardship. In the five years since the inception of Adopt-a-Crag, climbers around the country have built and restored thousands of miles of trails, hauled tons of trash, and completed thousands of conservation initiatives.

Once again Adopt-a-Crag has been expanded to encompass the entire month of September. The Access Fund made this change to encourage organizers to schedule their Adopt-a-Crag event on a day that works best for their community and to partner with other organizations. Download your Adopt-a-Crag Manual here (accessfund.org/pdf/adopt2005.pdf) and register online at www.AccessFund.org/Adopt/. Contact Deanne Buck, Grassroots Coordinator with questions- Deanne@accessfund.org, 303-656-6772 x112.

Since 1990, the Access Fund has been the only national advocacy organization that keeps climbing areas open and conserves the climbing environment. The Access Fund supports and represents over 1.6 million climbers nationwide in ALL forms of climbing; rock climbing, ice climbing, mountaineering, and bouldering. Five core programs support the mission on national and local levels: public policy, stewardship & conservation (including grants), grassroots activism, climber education, and land acquisition. For more information visit www.accessfund.org/ or www.boulderproject.org/. - Frances Fierst
Clear Creak Canyon - Update Sat Jun 25 22:03:49 2005
Clear Creek Canyon is open for recreational use only to within 1.5 miles East of the rockfall area at mile marker 262. With the canyon expected to be closed for several weeks this could be a good opportunity to climb in the canyon without the normal road noise. - John McNamee
Clean and Climb - Morrison, Sat, June 25 Thu Jun 23 19:30:14 2005
Hi everyone, this is a quick message from Dave McAllister, the Head Buyer over at the Mountain Miser. Five years ago I started something called the Clean & Climb, a grassroots "eco-series" for climbers in Colorado's Front Range. Over the last four years of clean ups I would estimate we've pulled out around 250 garbage bags of trash, plus countless other rubbish unmentionables. Basically, we all meet at a bouldering area, clean it up, snarf down some grilled goodies, go climbing as a group, and then I hand out some free schwag from a bunch of different sponsors! I'd like to personally invite everyone to this year's first Clean & Climb at Morrison. We'll be starting the clean-up at 10:30, and it shouldn't last too long (after four previous years of Morrison Clean & Climbs, this should be mostly maintenance). As a bonus, however, La Sportiva, Mad Rock and Montrail demo shoes will all be on hand to try out on the rock until at least 2:00! Come on out and have some good, dirty fun!
- John McNamee
Clear Creek Canyon Closed Tue Jun 21 12:50:18 2005
A 200 ton rockslide 10 miles west of Golden has closed US Highway 6 through Clear Creek Canyon yesterday, Tuesday 21 June. Colorado Department of Transportation officials say that the canyon will be closed for at least one week and up to one month for rock mitigation work.

U.S. 6 is closed on the east from the intersection with Colorado Highways 58 and 93 in Golden and on the west at Colorado 119. The slide occurred about a mile east of where Colorado 119 forks off from U.S. 6.

SeeDenver Post for details. - John McNamee
Eldorado fixed hardware for spring 2005 Wed Jun 15 13:37:49 2005
For spring 2005, Eldorado Canyon has one new application for New Fixed Hardware.

See the:ACE Website for details. Link to the application

Please look over the proposal, and vote yes or no, and leave any comments about the proposal you want.

The public meeting to decide on this application is at 7:30 PM, Wednesday July 13th at The Spot.
All welcome.

Thanks - Stephen Bartlett
Action Alert Update - Oak Flat., Arizona Mon Jun 13 18:36:54 2005
Oak Flat, Arizona Land Exchange Bills have been sent to committees for review and hearings. An interesting point is that several Colorado Representatives are on these committees. Specifically, Ken Salazar, Marilyn Musgrave, Tom Tancredo and Mark Udall. Use the Access Fund link to get the background information, letter templates, addresses, etc and start writing!

Thanks to Kirra from the Arizona Mountaineering Club and Friends of Queen Creek for the additional info.

- John McNamee
Rob Milne dies on Mt Everest Fri Jun 10 15:44:53 2005
I received word earlier this week that Rob Milne died on Mt Everest of a probable massive heart attack some 500 m below the summit. Rob was raised in Littleton, Co and attended college at MIT where he graduated in 1978 with a degree in Artificial Intelligence. Rob remained an extremely active climber his entire life. He climbed extensively in
Colorado with ascents of the Diamond and many other RMNP classics. He climbed in Yosemite and Alaska in the late 1970's. Rob received his PhD in Scotland in 1983. He settled near Edinburgh and became an influential figure in the European Artificial Intelligence academic and business communities. Rob continued to climb extensively adding classics such as the Eiger Nordwand to his resume. In recent years Rob completed 6 of the 7 geographic summits. He embarked on the final peak Mt Everest this last April where he showcased Scottish internet technology with his online Everest diary. Rob commented on how he was feeling fit but frustrated with May's uncooperative weather. His death was sudden and completely unexpected on June 5th during his summit bid. Rob is survived by his wife and two children in Scotland and his family in Colorado. Rob has been an AAC member since the late 1970's. Rick Meinig, Colorado Springs.

Deepest sympathy and condolences to family and friends.
- John McNamee
Gym/Retail Manager - Estes Park Wed Jun 8 20:24:43 2005
Gym/Retail Manager (and salespeople also) wanted for unique high-end outdoor shop with 3,000_sf climbing gym, in Estes Park. Solid retail, climbing gym, and outdoor experience needed. Exceptional people skills and good organizational skills a necessity. Work in a great atmosphere with like-minded folks. Lumpy and the Park beckon! Salary commensurate with experience. Send resume to Andy c/o Trailridge Outfitters PO Box 1558 Estes Park, CO 80517 - John McNamee
Access Fund Alert - Oak Flat, Arizona Wed Jun 8 19:50:21 2005
Our southern neighbour needs your help:

Oak Flat, Arizona Land Exchange Bills Introduced
On May 25, 2005, Arizona's Senator Kyl and Congressman Renzi introduced identical land exchange bills into Congress moving Resolution Copper Company (RCC) one step closer to destroying the publicly-owned Oak Flat area East of Phoenix resulting in the single largest loss of climbing ever.

These bills value the profits of a foreign mining company and discount a more responsible approach to environmental, as well as the recreational and health concerns of Arizonans and the many others who recreate at Oak Flat. Despite many promises of compromise these bills will allow RCC to push ahead with the destruction of Oak Flat and surrounding areas if they are passed without revision.

Don't wait for Oak Flat to be destroyed to voice your opposition. A loss of climbing in Arizona is a loss of climbing no matter where you live.
Access Fund Alert - John McNamee
Climbing Clinic Spots Available Thu Jun 2 09:07:01 2005
Hi there - I'm with Backpacker Magazine and I'm informing all Boulder newspapers, sites, and climbing clubs that Backpacker Magazine will host a Climbing Clinic on June 19 in Boulder in conjunction with NOLS. We're looking to fill some spots that are left (but going fast). Those interested can email me at Lindsey.Aspinall@rodale.com - John McNamee
Biskit - The loved climbing doggie Wed Jun 1 10:00:35 2005
Biskit, the star of Front Range Freaks and Return to Sender went missing in Gold Hill, Colorado and appears to have been the victim of a mountain lion. For details:
Biskit - John McNamee
Memorial Day Fri May 27 14:18:27 2005
Have a great Memorial Day weekend.

Memorial Day History - - John McNamee
New One Day Ascent of Hallucinogen Wall Wed May 18 11:06:24 2005
Ryan Nelson and Jared Ogden climbed the Hallucinogen Wall in just under nine hours on May 12. See

Climbing.com for details.

- John McNamee
DenverPost article about bouldering Mon May 16 12:45:16 2005
In today's (5/16/05) DenverPost there is a interesting article about bouldering. Check out the online version at
Denver Post - John McNamee
Wilderness Exchange Unlimited is hiring Mon May 16 07:10:50 2005
Wilderness Exchange Unlimited, Denver's premier climbing shop, is now hiring for a full time and a part time sales position. Extensive outdoor experience and retail sales experience is required. If you would enjoy working in a non-corporate environment and sharing your love of the outdoors with our customers, please submit a work and outdoor resume to the attention of Don or Gary. - John McNamee
Tentative Clean & Climb Schedule Wed May 11 14:22:13 2005
June 25: Morrison, with a shoe demo
July 23: Red Cliff
August 27: RMNP
September 24: Ute Valley
October 15: Carter Lake with a shoe demo

Any feedback would be appreciated. Thanks, Dave.
Email: fitzelq@msn.com - John McNamee
New Shelf Road Guide Book is out! Thu Apr 28 13:18:50 2005
Finally, a comprehensive guide to Shelf Road is now available. With over 900 plus routes, the new guide covers: The Gallery, Sand Gulch, Dead Colt, The Bank, The Dark Side, The Vault Area, Cactus Cliff, Spiney Ridge, The Gym, The North End and the Great Black North. Co-authored by Fred Knapp, Rick Thompson, and Rich Aschert, Shelf Road Rock: A Complete Climbing Reference is a detailed guide employing detailed cliff photo overlays, written descriptions, bolt counts, first ascent information, aerial photos, Top Ten pick by area developers and much more! Available at local climbing shops, bookstores, or direct from the publisher at
Sharp End Publishing - Frances Fierst
One Day Ascent of Hallucinogen Wall Tue Apr 26 22:07:53 2005
Boulderites Alan Doak and Stefan Griebel completed the first one-day ascent of the Hallucinogen Wall this past weekend when they did the wall in 23h39m. Alan did the aid climbing and Stefan (a 5.13 free climber) the free climbing. They are members of the local speed scrambling group (SMSC). They topped out in the rain. More info here: www.speedclimbing.org - John McNamee
We need your help! Thu Apr 21 13:44:53 2005
I'm currently working on validating rock and ice area information. To help speed up the process, I'm seeking corrections and updated area information.

Likewise, if you know of any incorrect route descriptions, please let me know as well. For example, last weekend I was on a popular route that stated “follow the right facing dihedral” whereas, it should have been left facing.

Please email me with your suggestions.

Cheers - John McNamee
Nominate photos for the Front Page Thu Apr 21 11:33:48 2005
Want to see your picture on the front page of the website? I am updating the "Shot of the Moment", and I need some recommendations. If you would like to see your photo (or any new photos) on the front page, please send me a link to the photo on the climbingboulder.com website. Feel free to nominate photos, even if they are not yours. I'll do my best to get new photos added soon. Thanks! - Frances Fierst
Remember the Closures Sun Apr 10 21:28:17 2005
Check out boulderaccess.com for all the closure info.
- Ben Mottinger
New area Added Sun Apr 10 15:43:29 2005
A new area called Rabbit Mountain was just approved, submitted by -
We're in Business Folks! Fri Apr 1 18:35:54 2005
Good news! It looks like there's a group of people who are going to keep the sites running - so we're NOT going down. The site's going to stay up for the time being. More information as the situation develops. No april fool's joke! - Myke Komarnitsky
Boulder Daily Camera Article Fri Apr 1 18:35:54 2005
A nice Daily Camera article (registration required) by Kasey Cordell. Too bad the editors cut out the possibility of a future part (see the original at the Boulder Dirt), given that it looks like we might be sticking around for a while longer. - Myke Komarnitsky
New area Added Fri Mar 25 14:47:22 2005
A new area called Lime Park was just approved, submitted by - Anonymous Coward
New area Added Fri Mar 25 14:47:04 2005
A new area called Georgetown was just approved, submitted by - Richard M. Wright
New icearea Added Wed Mar 23 21:18:46 2005
A new icearea called Rocky Mtn Nat Park - Flattop Mounta was just approved, submitted by - Joel Levenberg
All Good Things... Tue Mar 15 22:34:56 2005
Over 5 years ago, Ben Mottinger and I started ClimbingBoulder.com. It's been a marvel to see how the site (and its sister sites) has flourished, embraced by the local community. We've sweated and toiled to make the site function, look, and sound better. But it's always been you, fellow climbers, who have made this site a success.

When we started, Ben and I were dirtbag college students with no jobs - spending a bunch of time on the site was a welcome alternative to orbital mechanics. But things change - we've changed. Ben's working full-time at an aerospace firm, paying a mortgage, taking care of a dog, and planning a wedding. I'm in Washington DC at graduate school, studying business and searching for a job. Our lives have grown, in different directions, away from this site. We both still love climbing, and the outdoors.

But running the site has ceased to be fun, and I think that's reflected in what's happened on the site the last year or so. We no longer have the passion for the site that we had 3-4 years ago. We've found other things in our life that we spend our time on. Ben's got his fiancée, his dog, and his tricked-out WRX. I've got the world to take over.

All good things, they say, must come to an end. So as of March 31, 2005, this site (and the sister sites) will be frozen in time. It will remain a resource for the community, but no new comments, photos, routes, or news items will be posted. Think of it as the site going into print.

If there's a team that has the skill, motivation, and commitment to continue the network - be my guest. Contact me and I'll give you the db's, the scripts, everything.... Though it might be easier to just use the data and build a new architecture (5 years of perl can be a real mess).

I've said it a number of times - It's been a pleasure to work on this site. It really has. I think my favorite page on this site is the compliments page. It's always been more rewarding to receive these emails than checks from our advertisers.

Best of luck to all of you, and thank you for a great five years.
- Myke Komarnitsky
RMNP Press Release Tue Mar 15 22:04:42 2005
Rocky Mountain National Park News Release

March 11, 2005
For Immediate Release
Kyle Patterson 970-586-1363

Temporary Closures to Protect Nesting Raptors in Rocky Mountain National Park

Each year to protect raptor nesting sites, Rocky Mountain National Park officials initiate temporary closures in the Lumpy Ridge and Sheep Mountain areas of the park. To enable wildlife managers to gather information and ensure that raptors can nest undisturbed, specific areas within the park are closed temporarily to public use during nesting season.
All closures will go in to effect on March 15 and will continue through April 30. These closures may be extended longer or rescinded at an earlier date if determined necessary.

Closures include Alligator Rock, Lightning Rock, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Checkerboard Rock, Sheep Mountain, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Deer Mountain Buttress and Twin Owls, Rock One. These closures include the named formations as well as areas extending 100 yards in all directions from these formations. The perimeter around Alligator Rock extends for 200 yards in all directions. Closures include all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes and climber access trails to the named rock formations.

The National Park Service is committed to preserving birds of prey. The same cliffs that attract raptors also appeal to climbers. The cooperation of climbing organizations and individuals is essential to the successful nesting of raptors in the park.

-NPS-
- Ben Mottinger
Whoa Nellie Wed Mar 9 10:10:38 2005
I woke up with nearly 600 emails in my inbox about jerks, and I've ignored about 60% of them. Let me clarify what is an inappropriate posting and what is not:

What is not:
1) Discussing the sex lives of other climbers
2) Comments that insulting another climber
3) Comments that appear to be inciting a flame war

What is:
1) Just about everything else

Don't go through asking me to delete any posting that's not an instant classic.... cause you're just wasting your time and mine. - Myke Komarnitsky
R&I & Boss McGillicutty Tue Mar 8 13:00:54 2005
Also, if you haven't seen the new Rock and Ice, there's a hilarious article by Kelly Cordes, coming clean about being Boss McGillicutty. It caused us headaches at the time, but tragedy plus time equals comedy. - Myke Komarnitsky
Jerks & Suggestions Tue Mar 8 12:54:54 2005
Two items: one, the "suggest a correction" form has been broken for a few months and we never knew it. It's fixed now. If you submitted a suggestion but never saw anything happen, that's why.

Second, check out the new Jerk Reporting Function. If you see someone acting like a jerk, report them. If they are being a jerk, we'll delete it.

Please don't go crazy on the first few days - I'm expecting to get deluged with historic jerk reporting. For those who whine about freedom of speech or censorship - this is Ben and I's site. It's not a democracy, it's a benevolent dictatorship. If you want to be a jerk, go over to FRB.com or RC.com.

A solution like this is way overdue, and I think it might actually be a solution for the junk that has been growing at an increasing rate on the site over the past couple of years.

Any thoughts, drop me a line.

- Myke Komarnitsky
Notice about AC comments Sun Mar 6 20:01:17 2005
In the past few months--heck, years--we have been receiving e-mails alerting us to one AC or another posting foul, slanderous, rude, or simply spam comments. Every once in a while there is a particularly offensive post that needs to be sanitized.

I just read an e-mail tonight from a legitimate user who notified me of an individual who has crossed the line and then some with his comments on the Bolts Chopped thread.

AC 209.94.75.150 (and all other users who abuse the AC capability)--this site is not a medium for personal attacks and we simply won't tolerate it.

Anyone who comes across posts that have crossed the line, please e-mail me through the site. I still have pride in a site that started with community in mind and don't want to see it get polluted with the trash that other sites have suffered. And if anyone thinks it has already reached that point, e-mail me with your ideas. Thanks for those who already have.

We have a capability that is still in the works that will eliminate AC posts. Users will need to login so we can track and delete an entire profile if necessary. Until that is implemented, I'm asking for help in weeding out the toxic users.

Thanks,

Ben Mottinger (a founder and maintainer of the site)

- Ben Mottinger
Take a survey on climbing Tue Mar 1 20:59:01 2005
My name is Ethan Plaut from the University of Colorado and I am conducting research about congestion and rock climbing. This issue is very important and I urge you to take the survey that is linked below. By taking the survey you can ensure that your opinions are accounted for in this study. It should take less than ten minutes. Thanks, here is the link:

survey
- Ben Mottinger
BMS Events Wed Feb 16 20:38:33 2005
Now in its 58th year, the Boulder Mountaineering School is widely recognized as one of the finest schools of its kind in Colorado ? and perhaps in the nation. If you are interested in general mountaineering or rock climbing and want to learn new skills in a fun and safe manner, you owe it to yourself to enroll in BMS. Prior mountaineering or rock climbing experience is not required!
Benefits of BMS

-Five full-day field trips provide a thorough hands-on learning opportunity
-Excellent instructor-to-student ratio, with no more than six students assigned to a group of three experienced instructors
-Groups stay together for all field trips so you have plenty of time to get to know your instructors and fellow students
-Learn how to enjoy the mountains safely
Please visit our web site at www.cmcboulder.org/ for more information on Spring BMS including the schedule and location. - Ben Mottinger
Access Fund Action Alert Wed Feb 9 21:09:51 2005
Jefferson County Releases Draft Climbing Management Guidelines
Comments due by February 28, 2005

Jefferson County Open Space (JCOS) is currently in the process of developing climbing management guidelines. Following the finalization of the guidelines, site specific climbing management plans will be developed for each of the significant climbing areas in JCOS including Clear Creek Canyon, Cathedral Spires, North Table Mountain, Windy Saddle, and Mt. Lindo.

The guidelines can be viewed here.

The guidelines focus heavily on restricting fixed anchors, along with possible restrictions and closures. Of particular concern, the guidelines prohibit the placement of new fixed anchors until site specific management plans are developed for each park. In effect, this is a ban on bolts that could last indefinitely. The guidelines also give JCOS broad authority to restrict or close certain areas deemed as 'sensitive' although no criteria are listed for that designation.

Please take a moment to view the guidelines and submit your comments to:

Colleen Gadd
Jefferson County Open Space
700 Jefferson County Parkway, Suite 200
Golden, CO 80401
Comments can also be sent via fax to (303) 271-5997 or email:

It's vital that guidelines for these significant climbing areas are developed with input from the climbing community. Therefore, please urge JCOS to work with the climbing community in revising the guidelines.

For more information, please contact access and acquisitions director Shawn Tierney at shawn@accessfund.org - Ben Mottinger
Seasonal Closures Sat Feb 5 16:03:57 2005
A little late, but here are the closures this year in Eldo. Also a News Release.

- Ben Mottinger
Thu Jan 13 13:37:47 2005

Sean Isaac Presents- PLANET GRANITE Alpine Adventures from Around the World JANUARY 19TH 8:00 P.M. at the Denver Wilderness Exchange location. $5.00 admission.

2401 15th Street Ste. 90 - Myke Komarnitsky
Planet Granite Show January 19th Thu Jan 13 13:37:47 2005
In case you were wondering where that Planet Granite Show is, it's at Wilderness Exchange at their new Denver location. Check it out!

Sean Isaac Presents- PLANET GRANITE Alpine Adventures from Around the World JANUARY 19TH 8:00 P.M. at the Denver Wilderness Exchange location. $5.00 admission.

2401 15th Street Ste. 90 - Myke Komarnitsky
New icearea Added Sun Jan 9 14:52:49 2005
A new icearea called Durango was just approved, submitted by - Eddy Daly a.k.a. Two Bears
Photos Thu Jan 6 22:10:09 2005
If you have uploaded a photo to the beta section expecting a link, hold on a little longer. Our photo guy is on vacation and will be back this weekend.

Thanks for the patience.
- Ben Mottinger
Sorry for the Blackout Tue Dec 28 17:47:15 2004
Sorry about taking the site down for 24 hours there... but my brother Alek's Christmas Lights was receiving high profile attention. It was pretty fun to watch - nearly everyone took it as a good joke, except for the media which wasn't too happy. Oh well, you can't please everyone.

Warm holiday wishes, - Myke Komarnitsky
Take a Climber Survey! Sun Dec 19 22:37:54 2004
My name is Daniel Mirsky. I am a student at the Colorado College in Colorado Springs. I am writing you in regards to my senior thesis project for my Economics Major. I am writing a thesis about the value of rock climbing.

This is purely an academic research project -all information I collect will be kept confidential and will not be used for commercial purposes. I am not affiliated with any other organizations or companies.

This is an important study for anyone who values the outdoors and especially access to climbing areas. Knowing an accurate economic value for the climbing experience is important to organizations like the Access Fund as well as the National Forest Service and the Bureau of Land Management when making decisions on access to climbing areas as well as structuring land management plans. Also, by determining an economic value for climbing in the outdoors, we the climbers have a viable way of protecting our climbing areas that can be understood by politicians and policy makers.

Specifically I am writing about the value of climbing in the outdoors to climbers themselves. For this project to be successful I need to collect data from active climbers. To do this I have developed a survey (there is a hyperlink to the survey at the end of this letter). Since it is now winter and all our favorite climbing spots are covered in now and ice the best opportunity I have to get this survey out to the climbing community is through the climbing web sites that we all frequent when we can't be outside actually climbing.

Go to the survey!

- Ben Mottinger
Chopped bolts in the flations Sun Dec 19 22:27:45 2004
This might be something to get the word out about and find out who is responsible and why, and what can be done about it.

I was up in the flatirons climbing today (Sunday, December 19th), in the area where Back In Slacks, Street Hassle, Power Bulge, Drugs and a few other routes were. Street Hassle, Back In Slacks, Drugs, and the routes lower down on Dinosaur (Knot Carrot, Touch Monkey, etc.) have been chopped. We checked a few other routes in the area - Sneak Preview, Hot Spit, Discipline, and Monodoigt are still intact.
- Greg B. Hill
New icearea Added Tue Dec 14 06:45:48 2004
A new icearea called Coal Creek Canyon was just approved, submitted by - Leo Paik
Major Climbing Access Is In Danger! Sun Dec 12 22:43:36 2004
Umm, help. Mickey Mouse Wall will soon be closed. Permanently.

It is owned by Boulder City OSMP. Under the proposed new Visitor Plan, a number of local crags will be shut down forever. Mickey Mouse is the largest. Others include Continental Crag (up above Peanuts), Upper Peanuts Wall, The Sacred Cliffs.

Boulder Open Space and Mountain Parks have presented this proposal to Boulder City Council. Boulder City Council will discuss this on Tuesday 14th December.

Please phone or email the Boulder City Council Members (who love to hear from people about issues like this) that this is unacceptable.

Show up this Tuesday, Dec 14th at 6:00pm at Council Chambers (Broadway and Canyon). Bring a friend, or two, or eight. Let?s pack the room.

More details are at:

www.keep-open-space-open.org

Details of the folks who will decide on this issue are at:

www.ci.boulder.co.us/cms/citycouncil/leaders.html

They are:

Robin Bohannan 303-524-9067 11/18/03 11/07
2814 15th Street; 80304 720-938-5215
bohannanr@ci.boulder.co.us
bohannan@indra.com
Thomas Eldridge 303-449-8419 303-443-3336 02/18/97 11/05
1301 Canyon Blvd. #406; 80302 303-443-3336 (fax)
eldridget@ci.boulder.co.us
Crystal Gray 303-449-9680 11/18/03 11/07
1709 Spruce Street; 80302
grayc@ci.boulder.co.us
crystal_boulder@hotmail.com
Shaun McGrath 720-304-2165 11/18/03 11/05
225 29th Street; 80305
mcgraths@ci.boulder.co.us
s.l.mcgrath@att.net
Gordon Riggle 303-530-7181 11/18/97 11/05
5225 Pinehurst Dr.; 80301
riggleg@ci.boulder.co.us
Mark Ruzzin 303-417-9798 11/20/01 11/07
3135 5th St.; 80304
ruzzinm@ci.boulder.co.us
mruzin@swenergy.org
Andy Schultheiss 303-440-3321 11/18/03 11/05
3370 25th Street; 80304
schultheissa@ci.boulder.co.us
Jack Stoakes 303-449-3374 303-449-3374 11/18/03 11/07
2727 Folsom St., #110; 80304
stoakesj@ci.boulder.co.us
William R. Toor 303-544-0104 11/18/97 11/05
3032 10th St.; 80304
toorw@ci.boulder.co.us

Email, phone or write. Do all three.

Steve Bartlett - Stephen Bartlett
Boulder ice petition Wed Dec 1 21:25:47 2004
Heard this through the grapevine...

"...were at EMS on Sunday and there is a petition concerning farming Boulder Canyon for ice climbing. I talked to the gal at the checkout and she said the City of Boulder is willing to install several spickets where the falls are currently as well as across the road just east of Castle Rock. I don't know if the petition is at Neptune's or not, but if you get a chance please stop by and sign the petition. It would be great if the City of Boulder would all Boulder Canyon to become a mini-Ouray.
- Ben Mottinger
Boulder OSMP VMP--Time to Act! Thu Nov 18 21:29:40 2004
November 2004

Dear Climbers, Runners, Hikers,

As you may know the City of Boulder's Department of Open Space and Mountain Parks (OSMP) has finished its Visitor Master Plan (VMP). Now seven years in the works, this document is a comprehensive plan for the management of our Open Space and Mountain Parks. The VMP has now been forwarded to the City Council for discussion and possible approval.

At this point, the history of the VMP is less important than its impact for people who enjoy the open space and mountain parks for recreation. Here are a few observations about the proposed VMP.

1. The VMP puts all of OSMP land into one of four categories; the map is a complex patchwork that is itself open to debate. But accepting the map as it stands, over 40% of the OSMP land would be in the most highly regulated category (called HCA for Habitat Conservation Area) with rules that are more stringent than current rules. The HCA includes all land west of the high ridges between Chautauqua and Eldorado Canyon, Eldorado Mountain, plus various pockets elsewhere.

2. Within the HCAs the proposed VMP calls for no off-trail travel. All hikers must stay on designated trails (those with official trail signs). It's likely that non-designated social trails will be closed, restricting access to some popular crags and long-standing climbing areas. This alarming development might be acceptable if OSMP planned to build new trails. But that doesn't appear to be the case. In that last 10 years, while OSMP acreage doubled, a total of 7 miles of new trails were built.

3. The will be no access to HCAs at night; no more moonlight hikes up Green Mountain. This policy is both baseless and unenforceable.

4. The maximum group size on all OSMP land will be reduced from 50 to 25 people, without a special permit.

5. The current ban on competitive events will remain. While OSMP needs to have some flexibility to reject or modify requests for inappropriate competitive events, there is no need for a complete ban on all events. The policy prohibits innovative events such as last year's Cardiac Arete, in which runners (up Mt. Sanitas) volunteered time for trail maintenance.

6. Overall, the Open Space Board of Trustees consists of people who don't have much understanding of the importance of recreation for many Boulder citizens. Their policies are exclusionary and their perspective on preservation and recreation is (they admit) skewed. Overall, the priority of the Board is still acquisition of land (which is becoming increasingly scarce and expensive), rather than establishing new trails and maintaining existing trails. I think it's fair to say that the views of many Boulder people have been ignored during the writing of the VMP and are not reflected in the VMP.

It's time to mobilize people who care about open space and mountain parks, who want to see it protected and preserved, but who believe that people should have reasonable access to the public land that they have purchased. Please write to City Council members, email them, or visit with them (see addresses below). Please write letters to the local newspapers. Please forward this message and get others involved in opposing the VMP. If you want to read the VMP, it's at www.ci.boulder.co.us.

On December 14 at 6:00 p.m., there will be a study session with both the City Council and Open Space Board of trustees at the Senior Center at 909 Arapahoe. Although the public will not be allowed to speak, try to attend and show support in numbers. The City Council is scheduled to reach a final decision on the VMP in February 2005.

  • You can mail letters to City Council members at Office of City Council, P.O. Box 791, Boulder, CO 80306-0791.

  • You can fax letters to City Council members at 303-441-3002.

  • You can email letters to all City Council members at Council@ci.boulder.co.us.

  • City Council members read the Open Forum in the Boulder Daily Camera, so send letters (openforum@dailycamera.com or fax 303-449-0358).

COUNCIL MEMBERS:

Tom Eldridge, eldridget@ci.boulder.co.us, 303-449-8419
Robin Bohannan, bohannanr@ci.boulder.co.us, 303-524-9067
Crystal Gray, grayc@ci.boulder.co.us, 303-449-9680
Shaun McGrath, mcgraths@ci.boulder.co.us, 720-304-2165
Gordon Riggle, riggleg@ci.boulder.co.us, 303-530-7181
Mark Ruzzin, ruzzinm@ci.boulder.co.us, 303-417-9798
Andy Shultheiss, shultheissa@ci.boulder.co.us, 303-440-3321
Jack Stoakes, stoakesj@ci.boulder.co.us, 303-449-3374

Contact: Buzz Burrell (Boulder Trail Runners, buzz@dimensional.com), Willie Mein (Flatirons Climbing Council, Willie.Mein@lasp.colorado.edu), Bill Briggs
(wbriggs@math.cudenver.edu) - Willie Mein
New Climbing Plan released for the Black Mon Nov 15 21:22:47 2004
According to Climbing.com, there is a new Black Canyon management plan: see Climbing.com for more.

- Todd Bauck
Today is Veterans Day Thu Nov 11 05:26:27 2004
Thank a veteran today for their service to the country.



We would not die in that man's company
That fears his fellowship to die with us.
This day is called the feast of Crispian:
He that outlives this day, and comes safe home,
Will stand a tip-toe when the day is named,
And rouse him at the name of Crispian.
He that shall live this day, and see old age,
Will yearly on the vigil feast his neighbours,
And say 'To-morrow is Saint Crispian:'
Then will he strip his sleeve and show his scars.
And say 'These wounds I had on Crispin's day.'
Old men forget: yet all shall be forgot,
But he'll remember with advantages
What feats he did that day: then shall our names.
Familiar in his mouth as household words
Harry the king, Bedford and Exeter,
Warwick and Talbot, Salisbury and Gloucester,
Be in their flowing cups freshly remember'd.
This story shall the good man teach his son;
And Crispin Crispian shall ne'er go by,
From this day to the ending of the world,
But we in it shall be remember'd;
We few, we happy few, we band of brothers;
For he to-day that sheds his blood with me
Shall be my brother; be he ne'er so vile,
This day shall gentle his condition:
And gentlemen in England now a-bed
Shall think themselves accursed they were not here,
And hold their manhoods cheap whiles any speaks
That fought with us upon Saint Crispin's day.


Henry V (IV.iii)


- Myke Komarnitsky
New area Added Tue Nov 9 13:37:00 2004
A new area called Red Rock Canyon Open Space was just approved, submitted by - Stewart Green
The Accident in Eldo Mon Oct 25 22:11:52 2004
I was in TX all weekend and just heard about it...

Here's the story.
- Ben Mottinger
New area Added Sun Oct 17 19:43:50 2004
A new area called Ophir Wall was just approved, submitted by - Maxwell Schon
FHRC Application Review Tue Oct 12 22:50:44 2004
There is one application for the fall FHRC meeting, and it may be viewed at www.aceeldo.org/fhrc. - Ben Mottinger
Black Canyon Trifecta Revisited Thu Oct 7 20:40:15 2004
Inspired by his good friend Mike Pennings' feat, Josh Wharton went to the Black Canyon to try to climb the same three routes in a day. Wharton teamed up with Thad Friday and started from the North Rim on Sept. 28th at 4:30am for Southern Arete. They returned to campground in 6h15m to refuel and then headed for Astrodog, arriving at 12:20pm. They topped out on Astrodog at 5pm, rapped, started up the Scenic Cruise at 7pm. They then "entered a fatigue induced time-warp", and arrived in camp at 1:15 a.m.

They completed the link-up in the same order as Pennings and Jeff Hollenbaugh, though the latter party climbed The Cruise instead of the Scenic Cruise. Wharton said he just couldn't stomach another offwidth.

Pennings and Hollenbaugh did the link-up in just over 24 hours and now Wharton and Friday have done it in 20h45m. This is about 6000 feet of technical climbing and both Wharton and Pennings think it is harder than linking the Nose on El Capitan to the Northwest Face of Half Dome.
- Bill Wright
Market Research and Free Pizza/Schwag Thu Oct 7 12:52:24 2004
Volunteers needed for Market Focus Group - Thursday, 10/7 at Spot Gym immediately!!

If you are between the ages of 16-22 and you climb, we want to hear from you. We are an independent marketing group hosting a marketing focus group for a climbing organization at the Spot Bouldering Gym on Thursday, October 7th at 6pm. We need between 9 - 12 individuals who are willing to give an hour of their time to talk about themselves. We will provide pizza and some schwag for those who participate. If you are interested or have questions, please email Deanne at: market_research@hotmail.com. Let us know your name, phone number, gender and age. All your information will be kept confidential. We will contact you if you have been selected. - Ben Mottinger
Back in town now Tue Oct 5 12:24:49 2004
I was in Yosemite for 9 days but am back now so give me a few days to catch up on beta photos and other submissions.

Had a great time there--did the regular route on Half Dome along with some free routes.
- Ben Mottinger
Wild Country Biner Recall Wed Sep 22 21:06:51 2004
Link to a consumer report:

www.cpsc.gov
- Aileen Saenz
Clear Creek Canyon Mon Sep 6 21:12:28 2004
You all probably have seen this but in case you missed it, Clear Creek Canyon will be closed for 3 weeks starting 9/13/4 for work on 3 bridges and rock-fall mitigation for 11 miles from Hwy 93 to Hwy 119. Climbing access will be affected.
- Leo Paik
Stolen gear at Lumpy Fri Sep 3 08:52:35 2004
On Aug 30th I stashed my aid rack and rope on the far left side of the Roosting Ramp on the Twin Owls of Lumpy Ridge. On Sept 1st i returned at 3pm to climb and all my gear was gone. All my gear was in a large black and green North Face pack which was on a ledge 20ft above the Roosting Ramp.

This is a loss of over $2000 dollars. gear included two sets of every cam, two sets of nuts, rp's, hb's, jumars, aiders, etc, etc. All the gear was marked with blue and brown tape and all hooks, cam hooks,beaks, etc. are spray painted brown.

Any information would be greatly appreciated. emails me at marchemmes@excite.com or call me at (970) 691-0899

Thank You-
Marc Hemmes

- Ben Mottinger
Daniel 'Clean Dan' Grandusky Wed Sep 1 21:45:54 2004
Daniel 'Clean Dan' Grandusky died August 23rd, 2004. He died at home in his sleep.

Dan came to Boulder in 1978 after having served his climbing apprenticeship on the East Coast at the Gunks and Rattlesnake Point, Ontario. He never moved away. He was friendly, forward and entertaining to everyone he met. He didn?t think twice about going up to Marlon Brando in the Awanhee Sweet Shop and listing his favorite movies or challenging a convicted murder he gave a ride to ?Why?d you do it?? Dan was a generous person and a font of interesting facts and stories.

Dan put up routes in the Boulder area and in the Desert, soloed the Yellow Spur 17 times, and did numerous full moon ascents in the Flatirons. And in the early 1990?s he inspired and helped create the Paradise Rock Gym. But mainly Dan was fun to be with and a great climbing partner.
- Ben Mottinger
Accident at Castle Rock Sun Aug 29 08:45:16 2004
A man from CT fell last week.

Daily Camera article

- Ben Mottinger
Wilderness Exchange is hiring Wed Aug 18 23:04:27 2004
Wilderness Exchange Unlimited, Denver's premier climbing shop, is expanding and currently hiring for P.T. and F.T sales positions. We are looking for highly motivated sales professionals with extensive outdoor experience who enjoy working in a non-corporate environment and love climbing. If interested, please submit work and outdoor resume to Don or Tracy's attention. Call (303)964-0708 for details!


Cheers!
Don
Wilderness Exchange Unlimited
- Ben Mottinger
A Milestone For ClimbingBoulder.com Sun Aug 8 22:59:05 2004
Well, it's finally here. 5000 routes in the database. It's not just 5000 entries to make statistics look good. They are 5000 quality routes, photos, and comments that you have all contributed over the past 4 1/2 years.

The site started off very small--we had a link to each route on the home page! I never thought it would grow to this.

For those interested in nostalgia, I have recreated part of the site from October 2000, about 9 months after we put up the first links. None of the links are functional, but here is a route from that time. Now compare that to what we have today.

Thanks to everyone on the site who have grown a small collection of routes around Boulder to the most comprehensive single guide for Colorado. I'm looking forward to more growth and improvement in years to come.

- Ben Mottinger
Fixed Anchor Ban Thu Jul 29 15:52:38 2004
Please see the news posting on ClimbingJTree.com about a proposal in San Bernardino National Forest (which includes Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks). - Ben Mottinger
New Longs Peak Book Tue Jul 27 09:23:02 2004
I just read and reviewed Dougald MacDonald's new book, Longs Peak - The Story of Colorado's Favorite Fourteener. Check out the full review.

- Myke Komarnitsky
Raptor Closures are Over! Mon Jul 26 20:07:22 2004
The seasonal raptor closures for the following Open Space and Mountain Parks areas will be lifted beginning Friday, July 23.

Skunk Canyon - Includes Ridge Two and all areas west of Ridge Two, the Achean Pronouncement, the Dreadnaught, and the North Ridge.
Sacred Cliffs - Includes south rib of Green Mountain and all bouldering areas along the ridge.
Bear Creek Spire.
North side of Fern Canyon - Includes East Ridge , Nebel Horn Ridge, The Goose, and Goose Eggs.
Shadow Canyon - Includes Elephant Rock, Towers of the Moon, Jamcrack Spire, and the entire Devil's Thumb Ridge.
The Matron - Includes all areas within ¼-mile radius.
Third Flatiron - All routes, including: the approach and descent trails, Queen Anne's Head, W.C. Pinnacle, 1911 Gully, The Ghetto, East and West Ironing Boards, including The Fin, Green Thumb and Jaws.
Lefthand Canyon Palisades .
Mickey Mouse Wall - All routes.

The Full Press Release. - Myke Komarnitsky
Thank You Fri Jul 9 15:19:30 2004
I know the groveling/guilt trip went on all week, a little too long for a few of you, but thank you for your patience. We've sold a ton of shirts, almost more this week than the entire last 8 months. I'm leaving for a weekend trip in 30 minutes, but I'll write up a summary/analysis on Monday when I return.

Thanks again - Myke Komarnitsky
Wolfgang Schweiger hurt in Boulder Canyo Tue Jun 29 14:59:16 2004
The Daily Camera Story, and updates:

I have good news about Wolf today. Heidi (Wolf's wife, for those unaware) called last night and left us an encouraging message. She said Wolf was awake a lot yesterday. He actually stood with some help and sat in a chair. He looked at her and smiled and recognized a few more people, and did everything the doctors asked. Though he didn't talk at all yesterday, he has previously......different parts are resting and healing at different paces. The outlook sounds very positive, and we are all amazed to hear this kind of report so early in his recovery.



With Wolf's condition steadily improving, we feel it's an appropriate time to provide additional assistance to the family. We have researched a few options that we feel may be helpful, but will speak directly with Heidi this morning to confirm her and her family's needs. We still encourage people NOT to visit Wolf yet, as he needs incredible amounts of rest for his recovery to continue. However, Heidi wanted to express, once again, her appreciation for everyone's support and concern.

----------------------

Wolf continues to improve but at the same time, is experiencing some setbacks. They discovered Wolf's left wrist is dislocated / broken and may require surgery. Apparently, Wolf has had considerable swelling throughout his body, including both wrists, and the injury wasn't discovered until this weekend. His swelling, however, has now started to dissipate and his other injuries continue to heal well. The accumulation of fluid in his lungs has led to a mild case of pneumonia which they are treating with antibiotics.



Wolf has, at times, been responsive to voice commands, having squeezed a hand when requested, and has even opened his eyes to recognize a few people. He has even responded verbally from time to time. Wolf continues to drift in and out of responsiveness, but again, that is expected and shows positive signs of the slow comeback expected with type of injury. Doctors assure us that he is experiencing a very positive recovery for this stage in the game.



As a reminder to everyone, Wolf's recovery will be a slow and lengthy process. He is still not ready to receive any visitors. What he needs most right now is rest and your positive thoughts and prayers. As more news becomes available, and as we determine the best ways to help him and his family, I will share that information.

Here's an address where people can send flowers or cards for Wolf:

Wolf Schweiger
c/o Heidi Brinkman
1720 Spruce St.
Boulder, CO 80302 - Malcolm Daly
Tue Jun 22 19:10:01 2004
- Anonymous Coward
FHRC Meeting Canceled Tue Jun 22 19:10:01 2004
The Chianti application has been canceled, and thus, there will be no FHRC meeting on the 23rd. - Myke Komarnitsky
New FHRC Applications Mon Jun 7 17:11:24 2004
Check out the proposed bolts in the middle of Chianti and add your comments. - Myke Komarnitsky
Today is Memorial Day Mon May 31 14:55:17 2004
Have you thanked a veteran today? Enjoy the holiday, but remember the people that it honors, people like PFC Chance Philips. - Myke Komarnitsky
Injured Climber in Eldo Mon May 24 11:48:52 2004
A soloist fell on Smoke and Mirrors yesterday in Eldo.

Daily Camera article
- Ben Mottinger
Flatirons Climbing Council Meeting Wed May 19 21:43:50 2004
Public Meeting - Visitor Master Plan and Climbing in our Mountain Parks

The Flatirons Climbing Council (www.flatironsclimbing.com) invites you to attend a public meeting regarding the Open Space and Mountain Parks draft "Visitor Master Plan".


When: Tuesday, May 25, 7:00-9:00ish
Where: The Spot Climbing Gym
What: Learn about the proposed VMP and how it will impact climbing access in our Mountain Parks.

See the plan at www.visitorplan.com. Refer to Map 3.1 and Table 3.1 for a summary. Also note under References and Supporting Documents, "Description of Management Areas" details specific management actions for climbing areas including Mickey Mouse Wall, Sacred Cliffs, lower Skunk Canyon, and south of Shadow Canyon.

Free beer will be provided by your Flatirons Climbing Council.

Come to share your thoughts, and to listen to others. If you boulder, climb, or scramble in the Flatirons you will want to hear this.

For directions or info contact The Spot Climbing Gym at (303) 379-8806, or online at www.thespotgym.com - Ben Mottinger
Stolen draws Tue May 18 23:05:15 2004
I was climbing at Anarchy wall in Clear Creek Canyon and someone stole my 7 quickdraws off of a climb called Matriarch. I am looking for information as to who would have taken them, or to simply voice that these kind of actions are unacceptable in the climbing society. Any information would be much appreciated.

- Mark MacClary
New area Added Fri May 14 07:15:51 2004
A new area called Elevenmile Reservoir was just approved, submitted by - Bier
New area Added Wed May 5 05:56:33 2004
A new area called Oak Creek Canyon was just approved, submitted by - Todd Miller
Climbing for Life Mon May 3 23:18:46 2004
Climbing for Life is looking for volunteers. Here is an opportunity to use your skills and knowledge about climbing to help introduce at-risk youth to the sport and lifestyle you love.

Whether you flash 5.14 or are a novice, as long as you are enthusiastic and willing to help others, we need you. We will be running numerous one and two-day programs throughout the summer and need volunteers to set-up top-ropes, teach climbing skills, belay, and just be positive role models to the kids. We will be holding a volunteer training session soon, so please check out our web-site: climbingforlife.org, send us an email: info@climbingforlife.org , or give us a call at (303)278-0455 today. - Ben Mottinger
Patrick Berhault Mon May 3 23:11:21 2004
Patrick Berhault died last week above Saas-Fee while in process of climbing the 82 4000m peaks in the Alps in 82 days with Philippe Magnin. Details are at planetmountain.com.

Huge, sad loss.
- Tom Painter
Splitter Film Tue Apr 27 22:44:25 2004
If you haven't already--get some tickets for the premier of Splitter, this Thur at the Boulder Theater.

Check it out! - Ben Mottinger
McCrumm's Crack Wed Apr 21 20:44:51 2004
This is really cool. I got an e-mail a few days ago from the son of John McCrumm telling me about his father's first ascent in 1931 (of McCrumm's Crack). No kidding--that's great for this area. So then John actually e-mails me his own account of the climb (he's 92 now and using e-mail!).

I decided to post it here since it's not often that you hear about these things first hand. Thanks, John.

I am 92 now - an age when one looks back to long- gone days. On a misty, cold November afternoon in 1931, I walked along Baseline Rd. and up to the Amphitheater. In earlier scrambles, I had spotted the interior N.E. corner as a climb to be tried, all the way to the top of the north wall.

Armed with my gym shoes and 120 feet of hemp rope from the local hardware store, I felt I was well prepared! 5.4 didn't even exist in those days and I faced no chipmunks. Getting up the crack/chimney from the ground to the flat top of the N.E. pedestal was no great problem.

It was cold and getting dark; I spent several minutes examining the final pitch up the right side of the north wall when reality struck. If I once took the big step out onto the wall, to a crack running up to the top of the north pillar, there was no retreating. The rope was no help, I was alone and the exposure out on the wall was truly scary.

I decided I had to give it a shot. I stepped out to a little ledge with my left foot, found some half decent hand and foot holds and then I remember leaning my forehead against the stone and asking myself what the hell did I think I was doing to put myself in such a situation. Then I found some more good holds and in a few minutes of scrambling, I was on top of the pillar.

I took the heavy, scratchy rope off my shoulder and just sat until the shaking stopped. A gentle rain had come as I started home. Walking back along Baseline I was really pumped and I probably said to myself, "I did it, I did it". - Ben Mottinger
FHRC Meeting Mon Apr 19 22:37:44 2004
The Flatirons Climbing Council's Fixed Hardware Review Committee invites all to attend the first Public Meeting and Vote at 7pm on April 20 at The Spot Bouldering Gym (3240 Prairie Ave). Two proposed routes within the Pilot Area will be discussed and voted upon. Everyone is encouraged to participate in this significant step toward the future of Flatirons climbing. Please visit flatironsclimbing.com for additional information on the proposed routes and the FHRC process. - Ben Mottinger
New area Added Tue Apr 13 04:33:23 2004
A new area called Redstone Boulders was just approved, submitted by - Terry Fisher
2nd Annual Eldo Photo Contest Sat Apr 3 11:01:42 2004
2nd Annual Mike's Camera and Eldorado Canyon State Park Photography Contest - Eldorado Canyon is looking for outstanding photos of rock climbing and general photography featuring the people and places of Eldorado Canyon in all seasons. On your next visit to Eldorado Canyon, bring your camera and snap away. Your winning photo could be featured in a 2005 Eldorado Canyon State Park calendar and/or postcard or notecard packets. Photos taken prior to this contest are eligible and encouraged. Entries must be received between April 1 and June 11, 2004.

Plan to come to the Park Visitor Center and help judge the photographs on display from June 16 to July 31. Many distinctive local businesses are sponsoring the contest and have donated a variety of fabulous prizes including the grand prize, a digital camera, from Mike's Camera. The Eldorado Artesian Springs company, Boulder Rock Club, Alpine World Ascents, Eastern Mountain Sports (EMS), Mountain Sun, Neptune Mountaineering, La Sportiva, Trango, Mountain Sports, Front Range Anglers, and Narayan?s are all contest sponsors and have donated prizes from gift certificates to gear to guided trips. Winners will be announced no later than August 9, 2004.

To obtain entry forms and for more information, call the park at (303) 494-3943 or visit www.parks.state.co.us and select Eldorado Canyon State Park. Additional information can also be obtained at Mike's Camera in Boulder or www.mikescamera.com - Ben Mottinger
Access Fund Releases Bouldering Paper Fri Apr 2 00:02:50 2004
Unique Resource to Benefit Land Managers

March 31, 2004, Boulder, CO - The Access Fund is proud to announce the publication of a unique resource providing the first-ever overview of bouldering issues and management approaches in the Unites States. Bouldering: Understanding and Managing Climbing on Small Rock Formations is intended to provide a knowledge base for managing bouldering as a unique form of outdoor recreation, and contains an overview of bouldering, participant demographics, impacts caused by bouldering and management considerations.

"The tremendous growth of bouldering in recent years has fueled many of the emerging access issues at numerous areas around the country including Bishop, CA; Joshua Tree, CA; and the Ross Lake Recreation Area of the North Cascades, WA" said Shawn Tierney, Access Fund access and acquisitions director. "Given the growing popularity of climbing and outdoor recreation it is critical that management practices are in place to protect natural resources while allowing for diverse climbing experiences. The goal of this paper is to share information and encourage greater consistency in climbing management in the US."

Copies of Bouldering will be available to anyone working on climbing issues. Copies will also be sent to land managers, educators, Access Fund regional coordinators, and local climbing organizations. Copies will also be available as a PDF on the Access Fund website.

The Access Fund is a national non-profit organization dedicated to keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment. The organization works in cooperation with climbers, other recreational users, public land managers and private landowners to promote the responsible use and sound management of climbing resources throughout the United States. The Access Fund encourages an ethic of personal responsibility, self-regulation, strong conservation values and minimum impact practices among climbers. For more information, visit www.accessfund.org. - Ben Mottinger
New area Added Wed Mar 31 01:44:38 2004
A new area called Fortress of Solitude was just approved, submitted by - Matt Samet
New product--the Bottle Belt Tue Mar 23 20:27:13 2004
A cool new piece of gear for your collection of Nalgene bottles--check em out!

The Bottle Belt - Ben Mottinger
Climber Killed in Avalanche Mon Mar 22 19:56:34 2004
Three climbers scaling La Plata Peak triggered an avalanche Saturday. It killed one member of their team.

Story

- Ben Mottinger
Flatirons FHRC Application Review Thu Mar 18 22:22:46 2004
The Flatirons Climbing Council's Fixed Hardware Review Committee is now accepting public comment on two proposals for new routes in the Pilot Area on Dinosaur Mountain. One proposed route is located on the west face of Der Zerkle and the other, a two pitch route, on the upper, south face of the Red Devil.

Please visit the FCC website(www.flatironsclimbing.com) to review the applications and e-mail your comments. Using the named formations to search, hiking directions may be found at climbingboulder.com

The comments, made available only to the FHRC, shall be given consideration during the Public Vote and Meeting, which will be held at 7pm, April 20 at The Spot Bouldering Gym. Your attendance and that of your friends will be welcomed! If approved at the Public Meeting, the application(s) shall be sent to the City of Boulder's Open Space and Mountain Parks Department for their review and final decision.

This is the first Public Meeting and Vote for new routes permitted by the Memorandum of Understanding between OSMP and the FCC. Two additional cycles shall occur (fall 04, spring 05) before the expiration of the Pilot Program, at which time the success of the Program will be critiqued by OSMP. It is the FCC's hope that a successful outcome will warrant an extension and expansion of the Program. - Ben Mottinger
Update on Malcolm Daly Thu Mar 18 07:54:34 2004
You will all be pleased to know that Malcolm is in the comfort of his own home resting and recovering. He arrived mid morning on Friday, March 12th as scheduled.

We still do not have a very clear sense/confirmation of how much damage Mal's heart sustained or of how much rest and recovery will be needed. He will be going back to the hospital on Thursday for an eco cardiogram (spelling?) test that should reveal how much of the heart is functioning.

Many of you have asked how you can help or best contribute to Malcolm's recovery and a wonderful idea has surfaced. In speaking to Karen, I learned that one challenge Karen currently faces is preparing a heart healthy meal for Malcolm that the boys will still consider "REAL" food.

Janie Lowe together with Lisa Winston came up with a marvelous idea to have meals catered to the family. We have contracted the services of a local chef to deliver fresh and healthy dinners for four each day to the Daly residence. Peak Exposure (our PR firm) has committed to sponsoring the first week. At this point we anticipate that Malcolm will be home recovering for a minimum of two months. Please send your contributions to GTHI along with a notation of "Daily Deliveries to the Daly's."

You may sponsor a meal for one at $15 or a meal for four at $45. All contributions will be greatly appreciated and noted.

Thank you for all of your well wishes and the outpouring of support. Everyone in our office has been touched by all that you have shared.

The Gang at GTHI!
- Ben Mottinger
Rapture closure lifted in Boulder Canyon Tue Mar 16 22:55:58 2004
FOR IMMEDIATE RELEASE

In response to the Access Fund's and the Friends of Boulder Canyon's requests for information supporting the expanded raptor closures of Bitty Buttress, Blob Rock, Security Risk, Happy Hour, etc., rather than provide any information supporting the closure, the US Forest Service has lifted the closure and opened up this area up to climbing effective 16 March 2004. The eagles have nested yet again at Eagle Rock. There has been no nesting at Security Risk for well over a decade. - Chris Archer
Malcolm Daly in hospital Wed Mar 10 19:36:11 2004
Malcolm was leading ice in Ouray this past weekend and later that day felt discomfort in his chest. After being taken to the hospital, he learned he had suffered a major heart attack. He's in intensive care in Montrose, but will come to Boulder hopefully by the end of this week.

Many of you may know Malcolm personally. You can send wishes to Trango and they'll fwd them on. We all hope he gets better soon.

Great Trango Holdings, Inc.
Attn: Malcolm Daly
4699 Nautilus Court South #504
Boulder, CO 80301 - Ben Mottinger
Twitch rants and others Wed Mar 10 12:24:15 2004
Any time a discussion for a route starts to stray too far, we usually create a new feature for rants. Features also include gear reviews and activist issues.

The newest feature is for the current discussion on Twitch. - Ben Mottinger
New Sister Site - Red Rocks, Nevada Tue Feb 17 13:07:04 2004
Mike Morley, contributor here and maintainer of ClimbingJTree.com, has just started up a new sister site for Red Rocks, Nevada - ClimbingRedRocks.com - check it out, and better yet, start posting routes from your road trips out there. - Myke Komarnitsky
David Benson Hurt in avalanche Tue Feb 17 12:33:42 2004
David Benson, a site contributor and friend, is in critical condition after being caught in an avalanche. Rocky Mountain News, Denver Post. - Greaser
Climbing Red Rocks Mon Feb 16 21:21:32 2004
Climbing Red Rocks is live! What will be the first route to be posted? Crimson Chrysalis? Levitation 29? Prince of Darkness? Get on it! - Mike Morley
Last Chance to Save $ on Tshirts Sun Feb 15 18:40:47 2004
This is the last week to order t-shirts with a pick-up option. After Friday you'll have to pay for shipping. Come on, buy a shirt and support this site. - Myke Komarnitsky
2004 Area Closures Sun Feb 15 18:39:53 2004
Annual Closures are now on the site - Seasonal Area Closures. - Myke Komarnitsky
Climb for Life Road Tour Tue Feb 10 19:13:40 2004
REI and Black Diamond have partnered with The HERASM (Health, Empowerment, Research and Advocacy) Foundation to bring you the Climb for Life Road Tour. From January through April, participating REI stores and climbing gyms in Southern California, Salt Lake City, Minneapolis/St. Paul, Puget Sound, Denver and the Bay Area will each host a month-long climbing challenge: to climb as many indoor routes as possible within that period. Participants can get friends and family to sponsor them, and the money raised will go towards ovarian cancer research and treatment. And fun prizes will be awarded to the climbers with the most feet climbed!

How does the challenge work?
For every foot you climb, you will earn one point. Points can be used for sponsorship as well as for winning great prizes which will be awarded in a number of categories. All sponsorship funds raised will go to HERA to raise awareness and help find a cure for ovarian cancer.

Once you register, you will receive a Personal Challenge Book for recording the routes you climb at participating REI stores and climbing gyms. Additional points will be awarded for attending kick-off events and climbing clinics and for visiting all participating climbing locations in your area. Set your personal goal, then get friends, family and coworkers to sponsor you for this great cause.

Do I need climbing experience to participate?
Anyone interested in a personal climbing challenge and in making a difference in the lives of women with ovarian cancer is encouraged to participate. All ages and abilities are welcome. There will be prizes awarded to the male and female climbers who earn the most points in the following categories: 12 and Under, Novice, Intermediate and Expert. Prizes will also be awarded to the top three fundraisers.

More info
- Ben Mottinger
Woot Woot - It's My Birthday Tue Jan 27 16:40:27 2004
Dear Mr. Komarnitsky:

Congratulations! Upon recommendation of the Graduate Admissions Committee of the McDonough School of Business, I am pleased to approve your admission to the Georgetown University MBA Program, effective in the Fall 2004 semester.
- Myke Komarnitsky
Four Year Anniversary Fri Jan 23 13:42:55 2004
I'm a young guy, barely 25, so 4 years is a long time for me. Yet somehow we've reached the 4 year anniversary of the creation of this site. I have to say what I always do - thank you. Ben, Shaun, and I started this site, but it's the many contributions that have made it great. It's not feeding the homeless or eradicating land mines, but your contributions are a community service, and something you should take pride in. So, thank you.

2004 will be a year of change for me, and for the site. My life appears to be taking me to flatter pastures, for better or worse. We will do our best though, to make sure this site continues to grow and thrive.

I'd also like to thank the sponsors who have supported the site - their financial support has had a substantial impact on our ability to serve you. In particular, I'd like to thank Gary Neptune. We came to Neptune when this site was nothing - April of 2000. Gary believed in us then, and his never-flagging support has been tremendously helpful. Next time you're at Neptunes, you might tell him thanks for supporting the site.

I have a final request, to you, dear user. I still have 200+ climbingboulder.com tshirts in my house that I dropped a huge wad of dough on. We may re-order shirts, but I somewhat doubt it, given that demand has been rather lukewarm. I dropped the money, spent the time handling logistics, and priced them as low as I could to get them in a lot of people's hand. I simply ask that you consider buying a shirt or two. Support the site, show your pride and ownership in the site, and get a great climbing shirt in the process.

Again, my thanks for all your help in building what is certainly one of the best climbing sites on the internet. It's been a great adventure, and I'm glad to have been on this ride for the last four years.

I'll second everything Myke has said and add that I'm enjoying this experience and will continue to devote spare time to developing and maintaining the site.

Ben Mottinger
- Myke Komarnitsky
CDOT Rockfall Mitigation Project Sun Jan 18 20:06:40 2004
January 14, 2003 Boulder, CO. The Colorado Department of Transportation announces that construction at rockfall mitigation sites on State Highway 119 in upper Boulder Canyon will begin in late March 2004, and should be complete by Memorial Day.

The mitigation sites are located near MP 29.3 (Castle Rock), MP 31.8 (Coney Island), and MP 32.3 (Boulderado). The contractor will work one site at a time, weekdays only between 8:30 AM and 3:30 PM. Depending on site conditions, the work may include scaling, rock bolting, the application of shotcrete, and the installation of cable net and draped wire mesh. At each site, both lanes of SH 119 will be closed for 20-minute cycles during scaling operations. Other operations will require closure of a single lane, which will accommodate alternating one-way traffic through the site.

Work at each site will be confined to state highway right-of-way, and will impinge on neither established climbing routes nor access to those routes. Climbers are advised that parking near the site being worked will be difficult, as the contractor is entitled to use space adjacent to the roadway for staging equipment and supplies.

Notice of planned construction activities will be distributed weekly by e-mail, for which purpose a distribution list is being developed. Climbers and others who may be affected by construction are encouraged to sign on to the list by contacting project manager Bill Aldorfer at 303.546.5661 or bill.aldorfer@dot.state.co.us.
- Ben Mottinger
New Site Supporter Tue Jan 13 17:12:28 2004
We're excited to have the Boulder Rock Club and the Colorado Mountain School support this site. The BRC's been doing some major upgrades lately, with a wild new bouldering cave and plans to massively expand the climbing walls. You should check them out! Meanwhile, CMS has all sorts of great clinics as well as good conditions reports on the Ice in the Park. Check em out! - Myke Komarnitsky
New icearea Added Mon Jan 12 16:36:52 2004
A new icearea called Blue Mesa was just approved, submitted by - Matt Ledges
Gear repairs Mon Jan 5 21:46:30 2004
Found out about this company in Boulder that repairs all sorts of outdoor gear. Check em out instead of throwing away your old pants, tent, jacket, etc.
RipstopRepairs.com

- Ben Mottinger
Eldo Calendars Mon Dec 22 11:16:10 2003
Don't miss this opportunity to enjoy a year's worth of pictures in a calendar dedicated exclusively to one of Colorado's premiere climbing areas, Eldorado Canyon State Park. The winning photos from the First Annual Mike's Camera and Eldorado Canyon State Park Photography Contest are included in a 2004 calendar highlighting the diversity of Eldorado's climbing at its finest.

Pictures depict everything from world-renowned classics such as The Naked Edge to quintessential, poorly protected desperates like Scary Canary to classic moderates like The Bomb. The other half of the calendar presents Eldorado at its scenic best featuring a rushing South Boulder Creek complementing the seasonal landscape, glowing canyon walls, and a winter wonderland.

The calendar is available for only $9.95, with all proceeds supporting Eldorado Canyon State Park's educational programs. Discounts apply for orders of six or more calendars and shipping and handling is available.

To view the winning photos and order your calendars go to www.parks.state.co.us, choose Eldorado Canyon and click on the photo contest link on the left side of the page. You can also order your calendar by calling 303-494-3943 or coming to the Park Visitor Center. And get your cameras out and start taking pictures for the 2004 contest! - Ben Mottinger
New area Added Mon Dec 22 10:45:41 2003
A new area called Royal Gorge was just approved, submitted by - Ben Bruestle
New area Added Tue Dec 16 09:56:48 2003
A new area called Glenwood Canyon was just approved, submitted by - Bryan Gall
Climbing Survey Mon Dec 15 20:35:33 2003
I am an emergency medicine physician (and a climber) in Illinois. I am doing a research survey on climbing safety practices and injury patterns. The survey is anonymous and takes only a few minutes to complete on the internet.

Survey

Please email me with any questions or concerns.

Thanks in advance for your help!

Erik Gerdes, MD and Climber
Member: AAC, Chicago Mountaineering Club, Access Fund - Ben Mottinger
Looking for a Christmas Gift? Wed Dec 10 15:37:20 2003
[Shameless Plug] We've got these SWEET tech fiber shirts for sale. Great for climbing, trail running, or just watching football, these shirts will proclaim to all those around you that you are indeed a hard-core Boulder climber.

Why don't you buy a few? They're great stocking stuffers for that fellow climber family member or friend.

Buy one Now!



- Myke Komarnitsky
Sport Park Parking Lot Closing Down? Wed Dec 10 10:10:36 2003
This is curious. I haven't seen it, but it sounds like the parking lot for the sport park is going to be closed by CDOT.

---------------------------
Subject: RE: Boulder Canyon Parking Lot Closure
From: "Galvez, Tara"
Date: Wed, December 10, 2003 8:08 am

On Oct.22 a road trip was done by the Junior Forman for this area Bill
Slade, our Resident Engineer Mark Gosselin, and the Region 4 Access
Coordinator Gloria Hice Idler. It was determined after visiting the site
that this location was not a safe place for people to be pulling on and
off the roadway because of the location which is on a severe curve. The
sight distance is very much limited, so it looks like this area will be
closed permanently. We are currently trying to find a safer place for
people to park, but this area of Boulder Canyon is very narrow and it is
almost impossible with out doing some major widening and spending alot of
money which we don't have at this time. I have passed on your concerns to
our Traffic Engineering Office and Maintenance Office for their record.
Thank you for taking the time to contact us. Tara Galvez
Public Relations Office


-----Original Message-----
Sent: Saturday, December 06, 2003 6:55 PM
To: INFO (Public Information)
Subject: Boulder Canyon Parking Lot Closure



Hello,


Today I was up at the "Sport Park" a rock popular climbing destination
situated in Boulder Canyon, Hwy 119 between Boulder and Nederland, around
mile marker 12.5.


There is an existing parking area situated on the south side of the road
there (right hand side as heading to boulder from nederland). This parking
area has 2-3 car widths worth of dirt that was recently placed at one end
of the lot. several tons worth of dirt I would imagine...


I heard a rumor that the entire parking area is going to be closed. Is
this true? If so, I would strongly encourage posting of signs or an
alternative to closure. I know several people who use the parking area to
access forest service land. This is quite a popular area, year round.


If it is being closed for safety purposes, having people walk from another
parking area, down the narrow road, with little shoulder, would probably
cause more traffic problems than the current lot - and it would be quite
dangerous for folks trying to access the rock.


Thank you for your time!
- Myke Komarnitsky
New area Added Thu Dec 4 20:44:07 2003
A new area called The Narrows was just approved, submitted by - Matt Samet
Mountaineering Death near Cameron Pass Mon Dec 1 10:56:30 2003
A kid died up near Cameron Pass. Be careful out there.
The Story. - Scott Duke
Southfork Ice Conditions Fri Nov 28 19:20:59 2003
Hello Ice-Climbers and Outdoor Enthusiast,

I'm Writing from the National Park Service Law Enforcement Academy in Santa Rosa, California.

Many of you keep contacting us by phone and email in reference to the ice conditions on the southfork, so here's an up-date.

YES, the local ice-climbing season on the southfork of Cody, Wyoming is almost full blast. Most popular classic climbs are forming and some already climbed recently by some locals and visitors. Thanksgiving weekend will be a great way to kick off the season for most. Aaron Mulkey with coldfear.com has been climbing several days this season and has done a fantastic job up-grading his web site. Aaron has revised his
ice-conditions page and bisonwillys.com, Sierra Trading Post Outlet store, codyice.com and southforkice.com will all refer current ice-condition info to his web site this season.

The 6th Annual "Waterfall Ice" Roundup will take place once again at the Double Diamond X Ranch on the southfork Presidents day weekend.

Hope everyone is enjoying the ice-climbing season and we look forward to seeing you in Cody on the southforkice this season. Pass the word and let climbers and sponsors know when the event is.

Climb Safe,
Don Foote, event chairman
Bison Willy's Bunkhouse Kenny 307.587.0629
Double Diamond X Ranch Bev 1.800.833.RANCH - Ben Mottinger
Boss's Place Fri Nov 21 16:21:56 2003
In the interests of sanity, I've turned off Boss's Place from the comments summary page. Feel free to check out his place via the above link, since it's a lively place. - Myke Komarnitsky
Lots o Screwups - sorry Wed Nov 12 22:50:06 2003
In upgrading the site last night, I made some mistakes that's causing some funky behavior. I'm working on it. - Myke Komarnitsky
Ice Conditions is Now Working Wed Nov 12 10:31:20 2003
Sorry about that, in my mucking around with the system recently I wasn't showing new ice reports. Click on the conditions page and you can check them out in all their glory. - Myke Komarnitsky
T-Shirts Tue Nov 11 20:29:44 2003
Yup, we've got shirts now too. Check em out, buy one, two, or three. They're tech-fiber wicking material, perfect for climbing, running, or any other high-perfomance activity. I wore the long sleeve out tonight with a vest and felt fine in the slight breeze that was in Boulder. Did I mention you can Buy a Shirt?


- Myke Komarnitsky
New Look! Tue Nov 11 20:27:06 2003
It only took us 20 months to implement, but it was worth the wait, no? In case you forgot or weren't around, we had a legendary Logo Contest. Check out all 22 submissions, see if we picked the right one, but most importantly, Read the Comments from the masses. Hilarious.

Let us know what you think, and if you see anything messed up! - Myke Komarnitsky
Tacoma For Sale Mon Nov 3 10:04:05 2003
I'm selling my 98 Tacoma ExCab. You can see my add here. Or e-mail me for questions.
- Ben Mottinger
Lost + Found Sat Nov 1 11:15:25 2003
Quick reminder, you can view and post Lost and Found Items yourself. - Myke Komarnitsky
Local Climbers in Climbing Thu Oct 30 15:56:11 2003
Some crazy local climbers did a time trial up the Third Flatiron, and Climbing Magazine picked up The Story. - Myke Komarnitsky
New icearea Added Tue Oct 21 12:31:21 2003
A new icearea called Pikes Peak was just approved, submitted by - Hamish Gowans
New area Added Mon Oct 20 14:35:35 2003
A new area called Hell's Gate/ Hagerman Pass was just approved, submitted by - Bryan Gall
Anyone have a PayPal account - nevermind Thu Oct 16 10:36:03 2003
And a couple of minutes to help me out? I'm working on something, and I need another paypal account. Drop me a line if you got a couple of minutes.

[got it all figured out now, thanks.] - Myke Komarnitsky
Priceless Wed Oct 15 12:10:10 2003


- Myke Komarnitsky
FHRC Application Review Wed Oct 8 08:16:19 2003
The new FHRC (Fixed Hardware Review Committee) applications are available for review and comments at the ACE web site.

Please visit the site and give your 2 cents.

The public meeting (everyone welcome) will be at the Spot, on October 15th, at 7pm.

www.aceeldo.org

For those not familiar with the FHRC or ACE, please visit the website and find out! In a word, they are volunteers who help with Eldo efforts in the way of conservation. - Ben Mottinger
Indian Creek Comment Period Sat Oct 4 17:49:33 2003
MORE PUBLIC COMMENTS NEEDED FOR THE

INDIAN CREEK RECREATION PLAN



TIME FOR CLIMBERS TO STEP UP!



Indian Creek Recreation Plan.



The BLM recently extended the “scoping” comment period until October 24 for the upcoming Indian Creek Corridor Recreation Plan because it received so few comments -- only about 30 total. More climbers park at the Supercrack parking lot in a single day during the climbing season than wrote to the BLM to comment on how the area should be managed. In fact the proposed ATV safari for the Monticello area received over five times as many comments as the Indian Creek Corridor Recreation Plan!



This is the opportunity for climbers to make known how they feel about Indian Creek and tell the BLM what issues should be considered in the Plan. See the attached pdf for more information about where to write and the general outline of the planning process for Indian Creek.



The new deadline for comments is October 24,

so disregard the August 28 deadline noted in the attached BLM newsletter.



Climbers are increasingly seen as indifferent funhogs that just want free camping without the hassles of agency management. However, hundreds of climbers flock to Indian Creek every weekend during the spring and fall and impacts are increasingly apparent. The BLM's Monticello Field Office is willing to listen to climbers but we have to speak up and get involved. Either way a plan will be written, your input is important!



Issues at stake under the recreation plan include:



· Camping fees

· Camping restrictions (your favorite campsite could be closed or restricted)

· Trail access

· Climbing route closures to protect cultural and natural resources

· Conflicts with other use groups

· Human waste issues



Send your comments to:



Ralph Becker or Laura Hanson
Bear West/BLM
RE: Indian Creek Corridor Recreation Plan

145 South 400 East

Salt Lake City, Utah 84111

Rbecker@bearwest.com or

lhanson@bearwest.com



Phone: 801.355.8816

Fax: 801.355.2090





Access and Private Land.



Access to numerous cliffs at Indian Creek is not secure. Approaches to the following crags cross The Nature Conservancy's private Dugout Ranch and have only remained open up until now because of the generosity of former owner and current lessee Heidi Redd:



Battle of the Bulge Buttress

Supercrack Buttress

Donnelly Canyon

Tricks Wall

Paragon Prow

New Wall

New Wave Wall

Scarface Wall

Love Wall

Power Wall



Over the years, Dugout Ranch owners have allowed climbers to cross their property to access the world class climbs found on Supercrack and Battle of the Bulge buttresses (the cliffs are on public land but the approach trails are on Dugout Ranch property). In particular, Heidi Redd has for decades been friendly to climbers. However, in recent years the number of climbers at Indian Creek has increased many times over and a few folks have been outright rude to Heidi and her cowboys. Moreover, dogs have run wild harassing her cows and horses. If we want to continue the privilege of access across the Dugout Ranch, owned by The Nature Conservancy since 1997, we need to monitor ourselves, take care of the land and be respectful to the BLM, local landowners, and other user groups.



To return the favor to Heidi, please consider the following:



Do not trespass to reach New Wall, New Wave Wall and Paragon Prow. This areas in particular infringe upon the privacy of the Ranch. Keep a low profile when parking below and hiking across to Scarface and nearby walls. Be respectful of Dugout Ranch employees, and keep pets under control when cattle are present. Strive to Leave No Trace during all your activities at Indian Creek, especially along the Bridger Jack road camping areas.



GET INVOLVED!!

WRITE THE BLM AND COMMENT ON THE UPCOMING PLAN!

- Myke Komarnitsky
Comments Reform Mon Sep 29 16:40:51 2003
I'm working on a new comments submission process - should be a little easier, more intelligent, and filter out some of the spray more effectively.

Only rule: Don't be a jerk. - Myke Komarnitsky
Lost and Found Mon Sep 29 13:01:32 2003
An eternity later, I finally got this up and working. you can post both found AND lost items. Get your karma points up or offer six packs to get your gear back in our lost and found. - Myke Komarnitsky
New area Added Sat Sep 27 08:30:24 2003
A new area called Jackson Creek was just approved, submitted by - Richard M. Wright
Craig Demartino TV piece Sat Sep 27 08:00:45 2003
ROCK CLIMBER CRAIG DEMARTINO FEATURED IN THE NEW DISCOVERY CHANNEL SERIES - VITAL SCAN

On July 21st, 2002 a moment of miscommunication sent rock climber Craig DeMartino plummeting nine stories off a rock face. The impact knocked him unconscious, shattered his ankles and broke his back. A series of amazing coincidences found Craig in the hands of expert physicians with a chance for survival. Craig's story demonstrates the remarkable restorative powers our bodies possess and the strange turn of events that cause accidents and that help us survive them.

Friday night at 10pm EST October 17, 2003
- Myke Komarnitsky
Thank You! Mon Sep 22 12:13:39 2003
...for all your votes in the recent Daily Camera Best of Boulder poll.

This is pretty cool and exciting.

- Ben Mottinger
New area Added Wed Sep 17 20:51:49 2003
A new area called Taylor Canyon was just approved, submitted by - Kirk Woerner
Found Stuff Wed Sep 17 11:59:25 2003
Found a Black Diamond chalk bag on a piece of cord half way up Vershneidung on West Ridge at Eldo. Email me with its color and its yours. ernieport@msn.com

Found: Climbing gear bag with shoes, harness and chalk bag. Happy Hour
Crag. 9/13/03. Email me with description. sbudde@amfam.com. - Myke Komarnitsky
Found Shoe at Cob Rock Mon Sep 15 16:49:20 2003
found: one shoe at cob rock. email me with a description and i would be more than happy to get it back to the owner. - Patrick Pharo
That time of the year again... Sun Sep 7 22:29:27 2003
Time to give back a bit to the climbing area that you can't help but love.... just another day in The Office.

Check out the events this week for Celebrate Eldorado, pick a couple, and come on out! - Myke Komarnitsky
Found: Shoes at Sanitas Fri Sep 5 12:53:55 2003
found a pair of la sportivas at mt sanitas late evening on friday the 29th. get in touch - palacial@hotmail.com - Myke Komarnitsky
Some Thoughts on Boulder Canyon Fri Aug 29 08:54:23 2003
I have waited out the threads on Little John's Big Stick and Pincushion, hoping for exhaustion under the sheer weight of their own borishness. Now that they finally have, I have transferred all the 3 star rated spray comments to Beating on Little John's Big Stick and Banging on Pincushion. Here you can goad others, display your rapier's wit, and quote others ad infitum.

For those who contributed their comments on these threads, let me work in a Socratic method with you for your future benefit:

1) Does this quote from LJBS: "Your fascination with my personal life is truly heartwarming..." imply that the topic of conversation is relevant to the climb?
2) Before clicking the button, you might ask yourself: "Will this help someone 5 years from now climb this route? Or am I merely a petty spray-lord attempting to establish dominance on the local (ethernet-connected) fire hydrant?"
3) Should you spend your valuable time writing eloquent verses on "a discussion/argument over television programming" under a route?
4) Will your post piss me (Myke) off to the point where I just delete it, relegating your 30 minute, carefully researched post to the admin logs? Are you willing to accept that?
5) Do you really want to do your part to turn climbingboulder.com into this, this, or this?

I am not asking for an end to debate on controversial issues, which can take place happily in the features section. What I am asking is that people stay on-topic when you are posting comments on a route. This site is Great because, for the most part, we stay focused on the task of building an online guide book that people can use. I personally have met strangers from such places as Utah, Georgia, Virginia, Ohio, Kansas, New York, Washington, and Europe who have used the site and call it a Godsend. Have you ever read the comments about us page? I consider the praise on that page comes because most of the posts on the site are on-topic, data-intensive, and without personal attacks.

To summarize: Chill out, keep climbing, drink beer, and have fun. Don't be a dick and bring down the quality of this site. - Myke Komarnitsky
Found: Mythos by sharkstooth Thu Aug 21 17:45:17 2003
I found a single mythos shoe (right foot) while descending from Sharkstooth on August 10th. I wrestled it from a Marmot, and it is now in Boulder at my house. Contact me to get it back... - Tyler Erickson
Accidents Mon Aug 18 12:32:09 2003
A zoomie got hurt on Cob Rock yesterday (Daily Camera Article), and a death up on Snowmass.

Also, here's a first hand report from an accident in Clear Creek a few weeks back. Be careful!

I had taken vacation time for the afternoon, to handle some house
stuff and go climbing. I got home around noon, and got really lucky
since both the contractor and the cable dude showed up right on time,
so I was able to leave the house by two. Yay! Darrin picked me up,
we headed west to get another friend, Steve, then drove up to
Highwire Crag in Clear Creek Canyon.


Steve led an easy 5.7 route, then I led the same route to get my sea
legs back after a month off from climbing outside b/c of the ankle.
I had just touched back down to the ground and was about to untie
from the rope when we all saw a body come hurtling down from the top
of the rock and land -- THUD -- on the ground about 5 feet away from
us. Steve and Darrin jumped into action and ran down the tricky
approach climb to the road, while I quickly pulled the rope out of my
harness, ran over to the fallen guy, and tried to get his girlfriend
to stop screaming. He was blue in the face and foaming at the mouth,
bleeding badly from a gash in the back of his head and lacerations
all over his legs and arms. But we got his head stable, got some
clothes over him, and within a few minutes he pinked up and regained
some lucidity. There were three other guys on the crag, and they also
rushed over to help. I concentrated on keeping the guy stable and
warm and preventing him from moving his head, and keeping his
girlfriend calm.


Meanwhile, Darrin and Steve had driven down a very short way (we were
at least 20 minutes from cell service or a land line phone), when
they saw a casino bus heading up the road to Black Hawk. Steve had
the good sense to realize that the bus would have a CB radio, so he
jumped out of the car and waved it down. The driver called emergency
services, and a state trooper happened to be just down the canyon.
The trooper called for the search/rescue people, then hiked up to
where we were. Within a few minutes, the news helicopters were
circling overhead, the troopers had closed off the canyon road (I'm
sure pissing off legions of commuters), and by about 20-30 minutes
after the accident, the EMTs were on-scene. They got him on an IV
and in a better position, and determined that he was in surprisingly
good shape other than the head injury and a broken shoulder, and some
shock. Meanwhile the girlfriend started panicking again because their
puppy (which they did not have on a tied-down leash!) had taken off
when the guy fell (we never did find the dog, unfortunately, but it
has their phone # on its collar, and there should be climbers in the
area today, so hopefully someone will find it soon).


In between the time that the guy fell and the time the EMTs arrived,
it started to pour -- one of those short, intense mountain storms,
with lightning and even a bit of hail. We had a tarp under our rope,
so I whipped it out and we set up a sort of a tent over the hurt guy,
and got everyone's spare clothes and rain jackets over him to keep
him warm. The EMTs ended up working under our little tent, since it
was still raining, so we all stood in the rain, holding the tarp over
them while they worked. Steve was holding the IV bag up the whole
time, even while getting drenched.


Perhaps 45 minutes after the fall, the Golden Fire Dept.
search/rescue folks arrived. Darrin and another friend of ours,
Greg, who had arrived on his motorcycle while this was all happening,
helped them rig up a pulley system with one of the ropes so they
could get their gear up the approach, then they brought up a
stretcher and a really cool device to help them lower the stretcher
down on a rope system. Once they got the guy immobilized and warm,
they very slowly lowered him down (partly being carried, partly on the
rope system) to a waiting Flight for Life helicopter.


Then I helped the girlfriend get all of their stuff down to the road
and went with her to the hospital, while Steve and Darrin cleaned
their gear from the rock (and ours, too) and met me at St. Anthony's
a little bit later. The guy was in CAT scan when we left, and the ER
folks said he would basically be fine, but had a really close call.


Apparently, the two of them had miscommunicated somethin' awful. He
was planning to lower down on the rope, whereas she thought he was
going to rappel. I guess she thought he was anchored on the bolts at
the top, ready to come off belay and set up his rappel. In fact, he
was just going to lean back on the rope and lower down. I have no
idea how they made such a huge mistake, since you ALWAYS decide with
your belayer, BEFORE you leave the ground, whether you're lowering or
rapping off, but she took him off belay. So when he leaned back,
there was nothing holding him up, and he fell all the way from the
top of the route to the ground! Truly horrifying.


What makes this sad story even worse is that (as I learned while
staying w/the girlfriend) they have been climbing together for 3 1/2
years (so they should know their communication routine by now!),
they're engaged and supposed to get married on September 6, and
yesterday was her birthday. Ugh.


Oh -- and the three other guys up on the crag were DRUNK! When we
were all standing together holding the tarp over the guy, I could
smell them reeking of booze. They probably thought I was a huge
b**ch, but I totally yelled at them and said something like "I hope
this reminds you that climbing is dangerous enough, and you can't add
to the risk by drinking!"


Anyway, by the time Darrin and Steve met me at the hospital, it was
almost 8 and none of us had eaten all day, so we got some food and
tried to stop seeing the body falling from the sky over and over in
our minds. It was a hell of a scare, and a big reminder of why you
have to be absolutely certain about your protection system in
climbing.


And hopefully someone will find that puppy soon!!!


postscript


By the way -- I talked to the fiancee of the guy who fell, perhaps 4
or 5 days later. He was going home from the hospital that day, and
was doing pretty well. I think she said he had a broken shoulder,
fractures in both legs, some kind of back injury (but no paralysis),
broken ribs, a punctured lung, and 16 staples to close the head
wound. They also found the dog over the weekend after the accident.


(report by Madeline Cohen)

- Myke Komarnitsky
Found: Tim Hart Gear & Shoes Mon Aug 18 12:10:09 2003
Found Five Ten climbing shoes on West Ridge trail in Eldo on Thursday, 8/14/03. If they are yours, e-mail me at christac@kapp-usa.com.

-----------

I found a #6 Wild Country nut at Sundance Buttress 25 July. It belongs to Tim Hart (he tagged it), and I'd like to try to contact him and return it. Would it be possible to post a "found gear" message for Tim?

[Ed. Note - yes, I am working on a lost+found function] - Tim Judkins
Dropped slings/carabiners on 1st flat. Thu Aug 14 09:55:49 2003
a pair of climbers dropped some slings and carabiners from the second pitch of the Direct Route on the 1st flatiron on 8/12/2003 in the morning. Our rope team of three was moving slower than them, so we weren't able to return the gear; perhaps you can post the info on the news page and we can get it back to them. Thanks! - James Garnett
Waiting for beta photos? Tue Aug 12 12:39:29 2003
I'll be adding all the recent additions tonight. I've been back-logged for a while here. Sorry about that.

- Ben Mottinger
Found Shoes at cob and great zot Mon Aug 11 15:36:47 2003
Found: a shoe at cob rock and shoes at great zot area in eldo. Email vitalimg@aol.com to claim. - Mark Hammond
Found: shoe at dream Sun Aug 10 19:11:41 2003
found 1 right shoe (Cobra) on the trail at Dream Canyon yesterday (Sat. 8/9). - Ben Faber
Found Shoes at Avalon Sat Aug 9 15:45:43 2003
Found: Shoes at Avalon....Found on the 2nd tier. Email brenda_leach@yahoo.com to describe. Or, call 303-525-3660. - Myke Komarnitsky
Gear found at the Bastille Mon Aug 4 08:17:31 2003
Gear Found in Eldo on July 30th near the Bastille. Email me to identify @ rltmmb@earthlink.net - Myke Komarnitsky
Check out Flatironsclimbing.com Fri Aug 1 16:28:31 2003
The Flatirons Climbing Council(FCC) now has a web presence at www.flatironsclimbing.com. The website is a great place to get the full flavor of what the group is all about and trying to accomplish. Also, you can get all the latest and most up to date news and events related to climbing in the Flatirons.

In a nutshell, the FCC is the climbing community's liaison to the City of Boulder Open Space _ Mountain Parks(OSMP) division for climbing issues in the Flatirons. The group organizes stewardship events like Adopt-a-Crag in the fall and actively works with OSMP to ensure access for the future. Most notably, the FCC has established a Pilot Program on Dinosaur Mtn. with OSMP to allow for new route development with fixed anchors through an application process similar to the program currently in place in Eldo. Check out the website for details. - Myke Komarnitsky
Found Gear at High Wire Fri Aug 1 16:25:14 2003
FOUND: a large amount of gear at High Wire crag in Clear Creek on Thursday, 7/31. Apparently there was an accident there on Wednesday, and I suspect this gear was left as a result. If these belong to you, email me to identify the gear and route. - Joe Collins
Found: Shoes at Table Thu Jul 31 16:27:34 2003
I found a pair of climbing shoes at North Table Mountain in Golden on July 30th. I'll gladly return them to anyone who can identify the brand, style and size. Erik Garnett(egarnett@uiuc.edu) - Myke Komarnitsky
Found: Brace at Avalon Sat Jul 26 11:32:56 2003
i can't figure out how to post to the lost and found so maybe you can do this for me. i found an ASO ankle brace at Avalon last weekend. beth bennett (nosema08@yahoo.com) - Myke Komarnitsky
We Need your Help Wed Jul 23 15:51:41 2003
The Daily Camera is having a "Best of" ballot. Obviously, this is the best site for Boulder County. Take 2 minutes and cast your vote for ClimbingBoulder.com as Best Local Web Site! Here's The Ballot.

This would be some pretty cool publicity for us if we could snag this. This site is free, so consider this in-kind payment. - Myke Komarnitsky
Found: Glasses & Shoes Wed Jul 23 11:26:46 2003
I found a pair of wire frame prescription glasses while bouldering at the Pebble Wall on Flagstaff last night (Tue 7/22). Hopefully someone will claim them... Kirk Chynoweth (kirkc@lasermarking.net)

I'd like to post a find: a pair of Anazazi's found July 17th at the Primo wall. The owner can email me to pick up the shoes. chad wolak (chadwolak@hotmail.com) - Myke Komarnitsky
Found: Sunglasses (also keys followup) Wed Jul 16 15:13:36 2003
a pair of sunglasses was found at the main (scoop) area of three sisters park. they can be picked up at the paradise gym with proper identifying info.

Also, I got this email today:
Myke,
Thanks for the great community service you provide by running this website. Thanks to you I was able to get my keys back after having lost them over a month ago at Animal World.
Keep up the good work.
John Christie

Kinda neat to see things work like that.... though I'd say that credit goes to Greg Hartman for thinking of posting the information. - Myke Komarnitsky
(Update) Climber Hurt at Cob Rock Tyro Wed Jul 16 15:09:30 2003
The Daily Camera has the story:

Rock pins Boulder Canyon climber
By Greg Avery, Camera Staff Writer
July 16, 2003

Emergency squads rescued a man who was pinned on the bank of Boulder Creek when a rock the size of a couch crushed his leg this morning.

The man, identified as Boulder resident Douglas Shaw, writhed in agony for more than 30 minutes as crews used winches and chains to stabilize the rock and then inch it off Shaw's right leg.

Shaw and two companions, identified as Mary Riddel and Simon Peck, were preparing to cross the creek on a traverse rope used to reach a climbing area on the southern slope of Boulder Canyon about 10 miles west of Boulder.

Riddel and Peck told rescuers that they were standing on the large rock around 9:45 a.m. while Shaw prepared to clip onto the traverse rope. The rock suddenly rolled and then slid onto Shaw's leg, crushing it.

Freeing Shaw required closing Colo. 119 through Boulder Canyon for nearly an hour, causing traffic to back up more than a mile in each direction.

Shaw remained conscious throughout the ordeal and was able to talk with rescue crews.

He was taken by ambulance to Boulder Community Hospital at about 10:35 a.m. His condition was not immediately available.

---------------
Later Info:
The tyrolean was actually the Sherwood Forest one. Not the one from the big boulder either (the bolts are still there on the boulder), but a new one.

- Myke Komarnitsky
Found: Keys & GriGri in Bouldler Canyon Tue Jul 15 07:50:38 2003
Found: set of keys near the base of The Lower Animal World
crag on 7/14. To claim them email me at : ghartman@wind-tower.com

I found a grigri at Easter Rock in Boulder Canyon on Saturday (7/12) with very distinctive marking. Please email me with description to claim. CandDStebbins@juno.com - Myke Komarnitsky
New Bolts in the Flatirons? Sat Jul 12 09:10:34 2003
FHRC (Flatirons Hardware review Committee) is now acepting applications to add fixed hardware to new or existing routes in the Flatirons until August 15. This is part of a two year pilot program reached between the City of Boulder Open Space and Mountain Parks (OSMP)and the Flatirons Climbing Council (FCC). The pilot program will include the West and South sides of Der Zerkle, South side of Red Devil, West and North sides of The Box, and the North side of Finger Flatiron. Additional information and applications can be found at REI-Denver, Paradise Rock Gym, Rock'n_Jam'n, Boulder Rock Club, The Spot, Neptune Mountaineering, Mountain Sports and starting on August 1, on the FCC's website (www.flatironsclimbing.com). Applications will be prioritized on a first come basis. - Rui Ferreira
Justin DuBois? Sat Jul 12 07:12:10 2003
When you see this, send us an email.... need to ask you something, and your email address doesn't work. - Myke Komarnitsky
Alright! Beta photos upgraded. Wed Jul 9 20:49:52 2003
Now I got beta photos working too, no more blacked out photos. Let me know if you try to upload something and experience problems... - Myke Komarnitsky
I'm Back... Wed Jul 9 18:06:18 2003
Back in the Saddle Again.... and on the list is to improve a few things that I've a been neglectin over the past few months. The first goodie is the action photo upload function. Now it's not two steps, just one. Hopefully this will cut down on the number of blown file uploads. Check out the big brain on brad... - Myke Komarnitsky
Left Gear at Animal World Wed Jul 9 11:34:38 2003
The Tue, July 8 "dork award" goes to me. I left a gear sling with 4 cams and some nuts at the base of Cannabis Sportiva at Animal World. Please, please, please call me at 303-442-6947 x133 if you found this. I went back Wed morning and, as expected, the gear is no longer there. Although I can't offer you total enlightenment, I would be happy to buy you a case of your favorite brew. (kleiden@maad.com) - Ken Leiden
Shelf Road Access Shizzou Thu Jul 3 21:40:37 2003
  • *SHELF ROAD ACTION ALERT**
BLM Developing Travel Management Plan


HELP PROTECT THE SOLITUDE OF THE SHELF ROAD CLIMBING AREA
The Bureau of Land Management (BLM) is developing a travel management plan for off-road vehicles (ORVs) and other recreation use on 350,000 acres of interspersed private, state, and BLM lands between Canon City and Cripple Creek. This area is known as the Gold Belt Travel Management Area, and it includes the Shelf Road climbing area. Low population and rugged terrain have kept most of these lands relatively pristine. However, the area has recently been discovered by growing numbers of off-road vehicle users. ORV advocates are well organized, vocal, and have been lobbying the BLM for greater access.

Intensive ORV use will have an adverse effect on the Shelf climbing experience, degrade wildlife habitat and water quality, and increase noise pollution and soil erosion. The BLM is now in the process of deciding how much of the area will be available to ORVs and how much will remain wild and provide solitude.

PLEASE TAKE THE TIME TO COMMENT BY JULY 18
The BLM has held two scoping meetings (to identify important issues and develop alternatives) and is now in the process of developing the Travel Management Plan. Now is the time to comment! Please encourage the BLM to restrict ORV use to existing roads, and most importantly, not to allow their use in or near the Shelf Road climbing area!

The BLM is accepting comments until July 18. You can submit your comments via mail, email or fax to:

BLM Royal Gorge Field Office
Gold Belt TMP comments
Attn: Dave Walker
3170 E. Main St. Canon City, CO 81212
rgfo_comments@blm.gov
Fax: 719/269-8599

For more information on the plan, contact:
Dave Walker, Travel Plan Coordinator
Royal Gorge BLM
719/269-8500

The Access Fund 2475 Broadway, Boulder, CO 80304 303/545-6772 - Myke Komarnitsky
Found Gear at Vedauwoo (Memorial Day) Thu Jul 3 13:38:15 2003
Some gear was left in Vedauwoo, WY Memorial day near the Nautilus, at the base of Cornelius and Easy Jam. E-mail Steve at noah95@frii.com - Myke Komarnitsky
Lost Dog by Mt. Sherman (Update) Mon Jun 30 08:06:59 2003
My friend's dog was lost Yesterday (Sunday) at a camping spot near the trailhead of mount sherman (near Leadville). We had tied the dog up b/c she can't make the hike, and left her near our tents. When we returned to the camp site around 11:30 a.m., the dog was gone. She might have chewed through her rope, or she might have been taken. I am attaching a picture of this dog. If anyone has seen her (if you can't tell from the picture she is a mix between a basset hound and an Australian Shepard, very short legs) PLEASE contact Tracy Roach at 720-373-0365 (home) or (303) 575-4153 (work) or email myself lsiegel@co.boulder.co.us or Tracy tracy_roach@dpsk12.org.

See a Photo Here

----------------
Thanks to everyone for your suggestions- "Torrey" was turned into the leadville shelter and claimed by her joyous owner!
HURRAY!!!! - Myke Komarnitsky
Found Keys at Elephant Buttresses Sun Jun 29 13:45:29 2003
Anyone missing a Nissan truck key? I found one 6/27 in the Elephant Buttresses parking lot. If it's yours, email me your mailing address & I'll get it to you. - bee wallace
New area Added Mon Jun 23 12:04:01 2003
A new area called Newlin Creek was just approved, submitted by - John Sherman
ATV's in the Desert = Bad Idea Mon Jun 23 11:23:05 2003
Yikes. Just heard about this. One of the new proposed off-road trails, due to be ridden by hundreds of ATV riders, circles Bridger Jack Mesa. Hundreds more ATVs will go to Texas Tower. Unbelievable. I'm sick of hearing about this kind of shit. Please forward to anyone else, amd
email/write comments to the address at the bottom.


www.blm.gov/utah/monticello/safari-ea.htm




COMMENTS NEEDED IMMEDIATELY ON PROPOSED ATV SAFARI THROUGH SAN JUAN COUNTY!
COMMENTS DUE JULY 9!


The BLM has released an environmental assessment (EA) draft "finding of no
significant impact" for a "proposed" three-day, 350 ATV event on BLM and
Forest Service managed lands throughout San Juan County, Utah this September
25-27. The EA can be viewed at www.blm.gov/utah/monticello/prog.htm
(See www.suwa.org for photos and the press release).


Currently, the EA lacks consideration of an alternative that would disallow
proposed routes through inventoried wilderness and other sensitive lands.
This is the first example of the kind of wilderness attack for which the
collusive agreement between Governor Leavitt and the Interior Dept. has
paved the way, as some of the routes traverse areas whose pristine
wilderness qualities stood to be protected from ORVs and other development
until the April 11th settlement, including: Jacob's Chair-- the route would
bisect an area that the BLM found to have wilderness character in 1999; and
Bridger Jack--ATVs would loop through another BLM inventory unit on a route
illegally bulldozed by San Juan County (rather than pursuing a trespass
violation against the County, the agency is rewarding the illegal action by
now permitting an ATV event on the same route)!


Other proposed routes fall within the Cedar Mesa Area of Critical
Environmental Concern (ACEC), the Scenic Highway Corridor ACEC, citizen
proposed wilderness, and other lands rich in archaeological sites and
wildlife habitat. These include John's Canyon (located within the Cedar
Mesa ACEC), Piute Pass (within the Scenic Highway Corridor ACEC). The
routes proposed in Arch Canyon (also in Cedar Mesa ACEC) and Indian Creek
(near Canyonlands National Park; proponents call the route "Falls Missile),
lie in ecologically fragile streambeds with lush riparian vegetation, a
violation of BLM policy to protect- not damage rare riparian areas. Each
rider would crash through Arch Canyon creek over 100 times during their
trip-- a total of 1,700 crossings per group.


Sections of proposed routes that conflict with proposed wilderness lands in
National Forest must not be permitted, including the "White Rim" section of
the North Long Point route, and portions of the Shady Ridge route.


Proponents of the event hope that it will follow the pattern of the Moab
Jeep Safari--which we all know has expanded into an often uncontrollable
event. In 1979, the Moab Jeep Safari consisted of 10 trails with 400
vehicles participating in a one day event. Now, the Jeep Safari extends
over 9 days on thirty trails with over 1,700 registered participants, and an
additional 4,000 ORV riders who take to the trails without a permit.


Simply put, ORV events like the one proposed have proven to be unmanageable,
damaging to public lands, and dangerous to participants, community members,
and other public land users. Prior to even thinking about approving a large
scope, problem-laden event like the proposed San Juan ATV Safari, the BLM
must prepare an environmental impact statement (EIS) based on the following:


  • *All "routes" must be analyzed for conflict with other resources and
resource users, including wilderness, primitive recreation, wildlife, soils,
vegetation, water/riparian and cultural sites. Any routes found to be in
conflict with such resource values must not be permitted.


  • *The EIS must analyze the direct, indirect, cumulative, and reasonably
foreseeable impacts of the proposal. Indeed, no permit should be considered
until a full-scale travel plan is completed in the EIS prepared in
conjunction with the San Juan Area Resource Management Plan amendments.


  • *All proposed "routes" and potentially affected areas must be
field-inventoried for archaeological, paleontological, vegetative, and
wildlife resources, including endangered species.


  • *Wilderness character of all potentially affected lands must be inventoried
and evaluated.


  • *Any permit issued following completion of a full EIS must include a
monitoring plan and stipulations designed to prevent undue damage to
resources. Such monitoring must occur and stipulations must be enforced! A
bond sufficient to cover any damage to public land resources must be
required, and a reclamation plan must be submitted and analyzed.


============================================================================
Please send in comments requiring the BLM to adhere to their own regulations
outlined above and to reconsider issuing a permit for the San Juan ATV
Safari for the reasons listed above.


======== Comments are due JULY 9, 2003 ==============


Please address letters to:


Patrick Madigan
Monticello Field Office Manager
BLM
P.O. Box 7
Monticello, UT 84535
Fax (435) 587-1518
- Myke Komarnitsky
Another Climber Accident (updated) Mon Jun 23 07:13:24 2003
Be safe, please. Ryan Sayers, who contributed to this site, died in the Wind Rivers last week from a lightning strike.

>Daily Camera - 2, and the Gazette.

Here's a Profile of Ryan. - Myke Komarnitsky
Eldo photo contest Thu Jun 12 09:12:18 2003
Discover Eldorado Canyon State Park and share your memories through
pictures!

Eldorado Canyon State Park is looking for outstanding photos of rock climbing and general photography featuring the people and places of Eldorado Canyon in all seasons. On your next visit to the Eldorado Canyon, bring your camera. Snap away and your winning photo could be featured in a 2004 Eldorado Canyon State Park calendar. Photos taken prior to this contest are eligible and encouraged. Entries must be received between May 15 and July 31.

Plan to come to the visitors center and help judge the photographs on display from August 1 to September 15. Many distinctive local businesses are sponsoring the contest and have donated a variety of fabulous prizes including the grand prize, a Minolta Dimage F100 4.0 mega pixel digital camera, from Mike's Camera. The Eldorado Artesian Company, Boulder Rock Club, Alpine World Ascents, Eldorado Corner Market, EMS, Mountain Sun, Neptune Mountaineering, La Sportiva and their Eldo line, Trango, Mountain Sports, Front Range Anglers and Art Wolfe are all contest sponsors and have donate prizes from gift certificates to gear to guided trips. Winners will be announced September 22. To obtain entry forms and for more information, call the park at (303) 494-3943 or visit www.parks.state.co.us and select Eldorado Canyon State Park -the entry forms are rules are on the left under the Photo Contest link. Additional information can also be obtained at Mike's Camera in Boulder or by visiting www.mikescamera.com.

Contact:

Mary McCormac
303-494-3943

eldorado.park@state.co.us
Eldorado Canyon State Park - Ben Mottinger
ACE FHRC applications Wed Jun 11 09:50:41 2003
The spring 2003 new fixed hardware proposals are up on the ACE website. Please check them out, and give your opinions!

ACE

applications

The public meeting for deciding on these proposals is on June 18th, at the Eldo Visitor Center. Please come and voice an opinion, and vote.

Thanks,

- Steve "Crusher" Bartlett
Unfortunately, more sad news Tue Jun 10 23:46:56 2003
A Breckenridge climber, Chris Hampson died on May 31.

Read more.
- Leo Paik
Tragic news... Thu Jun 5 21:35:55 2003
Bruce Andrews was a friend to many in our community.

Story from Anchorage Daily News
- Anonymous Coward
Back from a short vacation Tue Jun 3 12:33:24 2003
My bro graduated from the Air Force Academy on Wed. and is now a 2nd Lt. then he got married on Sat and Dan and I were the best men. Exciting times.

I'm starting to catch up on photos, comments, etc now.
- Ben Mottinger
Suggestions for front page images Tue May 20 12:13:19 2003
I want to add more photos to the random front page images and need some suggestions. I'm looking for pics like the recently submitted Sphinx Crack photo to fill this in and get some fresh rotations.

E-mail me with the subject: "CB Front Page Photo Suggestion."

Thanks!
- Ben Mottinger
Lt., what exactly were you doing there? Fri May 16 22:23:08 2003
uhh... communicating. Keeping up with foreign relations. You know, giving them the bird.

Given the turmoil in the world today, and the unprecedented split in policy between the US and Europe, I feel it is my obligation, nay, my duty, to travel to our brothers and sisters across the pond and do my part to maintain the peace.

For 30 days I'll be drinking with some of the best partiers in the world. This is the real thing. This is what I've been trained for. I am america's best. And I will make you proud.

Obviously, site updates will be a little infrequent as I maintain my diplomatic presence in Europe. I'm sure you can understand; between deleting an argument on daisy chains, and dancing at a bubble bath club in Ibiza, the logical choice is the latter.

Wish me luck - if I'm not back by June 20, call Interpol. - Myke Komarnitsky
Booty Ethics Fri May 16 08:39:02 2003
Given the thoughts on the Discussion List recently regarding the ethics of stuck gear, booty, and returning gear.... this new request by Chris Parks could be an interesting discussion... - Myke Komarnitsky
Features (Discussion threads) Thu May 15 12:43:44 2003
For those who didn't know, there is a section of the site devoted to discussion threads that stray from the raw beta of a route. For example, we just created three new features that contain the comments from discussions such as 1. Direct Route, First Flatiron gear, 2. Route Grades, (IV, III, etc), and 3. The bolting/anchor discussion on Kirk's Corner in S. Platte.

Look here for topics if the comments disappear off of a route/rock/area. Or start your own discussion!
- Ben Mottinger
Partial Hayman Reopening Tue May 13 13:16:15 2003
Hayman has reopened to partial use, including hiking and camping. Not all roads to all of the areas are open, there are parking restrictions, and camping areas/overnight stays are still restricted. Sheeps Nose is accessible, but it's a 3-mile hike to Turkey Rocks still. FYI. There is a map of the area with open roads on the web.
- Tradkelly
Lumpy Closures Sun May 11 21:40:37 2003
The wildlife closures have been extended on Twin Owls, Lumpy Ridge due to a "suspected" falcon nesting. The didn't put the new signs up till after we had begun the route and proceeded to give us a warning ticket anyway.
Thanks for your kind and loving support RMNP rangers. Thunder Buttress closure has also been extended. - Jason Nelson
Jonathan Thesenga Sun May 11 21:28:04 2003
A statement by JT

May 6, 2003

MEMO:

We're helping Jonathan Thesenga, former editor of Climbing Magazine, in his need to set the record straight about circumstances surrounding his departure from the magazine.

In brief, Thesenga was dismissed April 16 following his guilty misdemeanor plea in a California federal court, admitting that he caused a fiery prank on New Years Eve, 2002, in Joshua Tree National Park. The National Park service made an example of his behavior by issuing a news release. Following his dismissal, an Aspen newspaper, in a headlined front page story, wrongly proclaimed him "guilty of felony arson and vandalism," prompting a flurry of incorrect charges, accounts and allegations on climbing websites around the world.

Jonathan is extremely proud of his role at Climbing, and the reputation he has established in the climbing community. He began climbing at the age of 14 (17 years ago), has climbed on three continents, and like many Coloradoans, regularly chalks up completions of the "14'ers" in the state.

Jonathan's remorse and embarrassment are palpable parts of his character today. I asked Jonathan to write a first-person piece about his latest untoward experience, and I offer it to you to publish in your publication or website.

Please contact me at 303-796-8888 if you have any questions.

Regards,


Pete Webb
Principal/Partner
Webb PR-Denver
pwebb@pwpr.com - Ben Mottinger
We're Best of Boulder Thu May 8 13:02:58 2003
Well Kind of. From the Boulder Weekly's Best of Boulder page. Next year we'll get "best web site"

BEST ROCK CLIMB
The Naked Edge (5.11a/b)
Eldorado Canyon State Park

Boulder is a climber's paradise. From the Flatirons to Hillbilly Rock to the Matron and the Maiden, there is enough bare stone for climbers of all abilities to get vertical. But one area-and one climb-stand out from the rest. The area is Eldorado Canyon State Park, with its 700-foot-high sandstone cliffs and countless climbs. No climbing trip to Boulder is complete without a trip to Eldo. The highest cliff, Redgarden Wall, hosts some of the best known climbs in the United States-Bastille (5.8+), Rosy Crucifixion (5.10a) and Scary Canary (5.12b). But one is perhaps better known than the others, The Naked Edge (5.11a/b). First conquered by legendary climber Layton Cor, who put up many of the first ascents on Redgarden Wall back in the 1970s, Naked Edge will keep your heart pumping from the first fingercrack through the dicey fourth pitch and to the top of the fifth. The only drawback is that Naked Edge is closed until July 31 to protect the nesting and roosting sites of eagles and peregrine falcons. Climbers who violate the closures not only risk disturbing the very beauty most of us enjoy while we climb, but will get smacked with an enormous fine and a fun day in court. Respect nature, respect the closures, and climb on.
For more information on climbing around Boulder, go to www.climbingboulder.com. When it comes to rock, these locals rock.

- Myke Komarnitsky
Old Man of the Mountain Thu May 8 12:12:46 2003
It's nice that the Rockies are still going up, not down.

News Story - Ben Mottinger
Found shoes in CCC Thu May 8 12:10:53 2003
Found: Approach shoes. Clear Creek Canyon. You lost'em, I have them. Describe and they are yours. Contact Doug: dfhallerrock@netscape.net - Ben Mottinger
BC Closures Lifted Thu May 8 12:08:14 2003
In case you didn't already know...

Closures Notice
- Ben Mottinger
4000 - Holy Shat Mon May 5 13:39:29 2003
4000th route. Yeeehaw! - Myke Komarnitsky
Lost+Found - Shoes at Sport Park Fri May 2 08:06:39 2003
Found a pair of shoes at Sport Park on 4/28/03. Please call 720-494-0160 to claim. - Myke Komarnitsky
Colorado Climber Amputates Arm... Thu May 1 23:05:23 2003
From USA Today. - Myke Komarnitsky
Coming up on 4000 routes... Thu May 1 11:14:21 2003
Good Lord, how did this project get this big? I just found out yesterday that our server is using 10 times as much bandwidth as we're supposed to, I'm probably going to have to buy a new server since the current one is too slow on some important tasks, and Sven's even back.

I'm not complaining at all, I just find that the growth of this site to be incredible. I'll be gone in the NE for the next two weeks, so I'll most likely be gone for that fateful 4000th route. Maybe at 5000 we'll have a big party or something... any ideas?

So.... thanks. Thanks to everyone who has made this the best climbing site on the Internet. This IS something special, and even people outside of our community can recognize it. Thank you for making this such an interesting project. - Myke Komarnitsky
Trundle time! Wed Apr 30 13:47:50 2003
ACE - Working for the Climbing Community

For many years climbers descending from the routes that ended on the Upper Ramp have downclimbed the Ramp to the anchors at the base of the Naked Edge to rappel. The lower portion of the Ramp beneath Green Willow Wall, Jules Verne, and Genus Loci was filled with tons of dangerously loose and unstable rock. On Friday, April 25, ACE, supported by Park staff, removed thousands of pounds of loose rock from the base of the Upper Ramp. Care should still be taken when traversing this area, but the likelihood of a climber inadvertently knocking off a basketball or larger size rock onto climbers on the popular routes below has been significantly diminished. - Ray Snead
Rope strength factors Wed Apr 30 11:50:11 2003
Interesting FYI from Leo:

Found the UIAA guide testing from p 36 Climbing issue no. 222. Drop test
factor 1.78 falls 7-30 days after marking with a marking pen (including those
marketed specifically fro marking ropes) damaged the sheath 7-50%. Unmarked
ropes held 10-12 falls and marked ropes held 6-8 falls. Also, a non-wet rope
that can hold 6-7 falls might only hold 1-2 falls when soaked. Italian
Alpine Club testing noted only 1/3 strength after 48 hours immersion in
water. Dried ropes (after immersion) near-normal dynamic performance.
- Leo Paik
Found gear at Elephant Buttresses Tue Apr 29 07:55:19 2003
Found gear on 4/15/03 at the base of Monster Woman on Elephant Buttress in Boulder Canyon. Owners can call me to identify - 303-819-2815. -Ken - Myke Komarnitsky
Found Shoes Mon Apr 28 14:12:39 2003
Found: pair of 5.10 Asym slippers with the letters "L" and "M" and flames drawn on them. Found in the middle of the street on Broadway and Highlands Ranch Pkwy. Contact jjbaldw@yahoo.com - Myke Komarnitsky
Our Newest Sponsor Thu Apr 24 10:23:57 2003
We're excited to have the The Spot Gym join us as the newest supporter of climbingboulder.com! Dan and Dan have put their blood, sweat and tears into creating what is hands down the best climbing gym I've ever been to. Seriously.

The boulders are one of a kind, with geometry so complex that it makes every route feel like a completely different type of problem (as opposed to that typical overhanging wall that's the same angle everywhere). What's also cool is that they are constantly putting in new problems - probably on the order of 3 or 4 a day. This means that every day you come in there's new and interesting problems to figure out!

I definitely recommend you check them out, tell them climbingboulder.com sent ya! - Myke Komarnitsky
Leave your cam on Cozyhang? Fri Apr 18 08:35:19 2003
I was teaching a guy trad up on the dome last Wednesday April 9th, in Boulder Canyon. A young lady told us about a cam she couldn't remove from the top of "Cozyhang." When I got to the top, I saw it and was able to remove it. She did not leave her name, she just told us about it. When we got down, she was gone. If she is interested in retrieving this piece, it looked brand new. Have her call me at 303-729-3281. - Bryan Hylenski
New area Added Thu Apr 17 14:11:55 2003
A new area called The Stonewall was just approved, submitted by - Bryan Gartland
Well That was Quick Thu Apr 17 08:33:50 2003
Looks like JT over at Climbing was fired yesterday.... - Myke Komarnitsky
Boulder Falls Closed Tue Apr 15 15:55:17 2003
www.ci.boulder.co.us/comm/pressrelease/2003/0414a.html...

I don't know if you saw the notice about Boulder Falls in the Daily Camera. It is a mess up there due to the big snow storm, and city staff feels that there are unstable boulders that pose a safety concern. - Ray Snead
Setback on Climber/Govt Relations Tue Apr 15 15:51:29 2003
From data2.itc.nps.gov/morningreport/.... I'm not even sure what the hell they did, but it seems like it's pretty stupid to me. Maybe keeping up "foreign relations" ("You know, giving them the bird" "I know what the bird is, goose")....

Joshua Tree National Park (CA)
Conviction for Arson, Vandalism of Natural Resources

Joshua Tree NP has historically been a popular gathering spot for outdoor enthusiasts during the Christmas and New Years holidays. During the 2002 holiday, all park campgrounds and facilities were full. While patrolling the Hidden Valley campground after dark on New Year's Eve, rangers Tim Bertrand and Scott Fischer saw two people on a rock formation above the campground. After hearing the distinctive sound of a tin white gas container hitting the rock, they observed a large fire erupt on the face of the formation. When they identified themselves to the pair, both fled from the area. The rangers apprehended them as they climbed down the back of the formation. They were subsequently identified as Jonathan Thesenga and Erin Whorton. Both were cited for arson, with mandatory court appearances stipulated. Later in the evening, the two rangers were again patrolling the campground. They came across a site with a large fire and several people talking loudly. As the rangers approached the site, they recognized Thesenga and Whorton. Thesenga made several statements indicating that he had no remorse or understanding of what he had done. He stated several times that he planned on doing the same thing next year, and the he would also light several other fires. Thesenga also said that "as the editor," he was not supposed to do things like this. Several days later, the rangers discovered that Thesenga was the senior editor for Climbing Magazine, one of the top two publications on rock climbing. On April 4th, Thesenga and Whorton appeared in federal court. They appeared separately in front of the magistrate, and each pled guilty. Thesenga showed no remorse and did not apologize for his actions to the court. He was sentenced to five years' unsupervised probation, banned from entering the park for five years, and ordered to pay a $1,000 fine. The court also required him to provide copies of the rangers' report and the court proceedings to his employer and the magazine's owner, the Primedia Corporation. Whorton showed remorse and apologized to the court and to the park staff present for her actions. She was sentenced to a $500 fine and three years' unsupervised probation and banned from entering the park for a period of three years.
[Submitted by Jeff Ohlfs, Acting Chief Ranger]

- Myke Komarnitsky
Gear found in Eldorado Mon Apr 14 08:26:30 2003
Found gear: piece dropped from Long Johns Wall in Eldo on 4/13/03. Call 720.771.8089 to identify.
- Michael Sharp
Karma and the Filcher Sat Apr 12 22:48:41 2003
Karma is a funny thing, with the rash of gear thefts in the past few weeks one must wonder what is happening in our community. Yet another prime example can be found on Friday, April 11th. A pair of climbers dropped a green Alien from the first pitch of the Bulge in Eldorado Canyon, the dropped cam landed no more than 3 feet from their packs, they decided that since it was so close to their packs they could continue their climb and surely anyone who happened upon the cam would realize that it belonged to the owners of the pack. Yet upon returning to the start of the climb after four wonderful pitches the dropped Alien was gone. Maybe if your the one who picked up the Alien, or your one of the people who have been filching gear, you might want to consider the following: Do you know the history of the gear? Some pieces are on a rack so they can be left in a an emergency, they should not be trusted for more than body weight. More importantly is a couple hundred dollars worth of gear worth the Karma you will incur for stealing it? What goes around comes around. I certainly would not want climb with someone on gear that they had stolen....Just a few thoughts.

So do the right thing and return the gear.
- Michael Sharp
Want to Volunteer? Wed Apr 9 13:19:58 2003
CLIMBING VOLUNTEERS NEEDED!!
New Volunteer Training
Saturday April 12 at the BRC

Want to make a difference in the lives of the youth in your community? Climbing For Life is now scheduling weekend programs for the summer!! We are looking for folks that are interested in making new friends while helping youth to develop self-esteem and supportive, caring relationships with adults and peers. Weekend programs begin in late April/early May and run the duration of the summer. We also have an extended B.E.L.A.Y. program which involves pairing a mentor volunteer (you) with a youth.

Founded in 1994, Climbing For Life, Inc. (CFL), a non-profit organization, has been committed to providing an experience that will deeply impact the self-image of young persons at risk, and providing them with the building blocks to carry that image into creating a positive future for themselves and their community. CFL is committed to benefiting the community through positive impact on youth and by providing an opportunity for volunteers to give their best. We serve youth at risk in the Denver/Boulder area, including:

Pine Street Attention Home
BLINK
Boulder County Mental Health
Colorado High School
I Have a Dream Foundation
Jefferson Hall
Adams County Mental Health
Binning Family Foundation
Jefferson County Probation
Youth Biz

The intent of the weekend programs is to create an outdoor rock climbing experience that combines the exposure to a new set of skills with a physical metaphor for teaching youth how to face fears and challenges in their lives. In the 2002-2003 programs we served 132 youth on 15 weekend programs. The organization has grown substantially from the four founding members, but we need your help to continue the program. No climbing experience is necessary. We have additional need for office help, web maintenance, developing new youth programs, developing partnerships with climbing corporations, and grant writing. Or if you'd just like to make a donation, we'd be happy to talk to you.

For more information, contact us at 303-278-0455 or info@climbingforlife.org - Mike Morley
Gear Stolen in Ouray Fri Apr 4 13:04:26 2003
No good deed goes unpunished. I have spent hundreds of hours and thousands of dollars developing rock climbing in Ouray, Colorado. Unfortunately, there have been several thefts of gear during the last couple of years, including a rack of quickdraws and a rope.

On March 31, 2003, the thefts escalated. A gear stash that had been left at the base of the wall in an old mine shaft was ripped off of about $1,300 worth of stuff, which is identified below:

1 Bosch Annihilator; Model # 11225VSRH (Battery Operated Hammerdrill)
2 Petzl Ascenders; Model: Ascension (Blue and gold)
2 Daisy Chains: yellow/white; Black Diamond: grey/white
3 Slings: Spectra grey/white
8 Caribiners: various
1 2lb dead weight hammer - yellow handle, red sling attachment
1 J-Rat chalkbag
1 Purple Aider
4 Aliens
2 Friends #1 & 2
3 Sky Hooks

There was no battery with the drill, so be on the lookout for someone trying to find just a battery and charger.

There is some reason to suspect that someone from Boulder may have been involved. I would appreciate any information anyone may have regarding this theft. You can reach me at mgilbert@ouraynet.com, or 970.325.4290. Mike Gilbert.
- Myke Komarnitsky
Googlerific Thu Apr 3 23:22:14 2003
Some terms that we come up #1 in Google for:

Hitler's Sex Life
polyester leisure suit
bad girls get spanked
necrophelia
nazi sport

Is this a climbing site or some kind of site for sick perverted people? Oh wait it's both.... - Myke Komarnitsky
FCC Committee Application Fri Mar 28 13:24:33 2003
Flatirons Fixed Hardware Review Committee Application

The Flatirons Climbing Council (FCC) is currently seeking climbers interested in serving on the Flatirons Fixed Hardware Review Committee. The FCC board may select several people to serve on the Committee for the 2003 calendar year for one or two year terms.
The Fixed Hardware Review Committee holds periodic meetings at which public comments are elicited on the merit or demerit of proposed new routes and the replacement or relocation of fixed anchors. The Committee then advises the City of Boulder Open Space and Mountain Parks (OSMP) staff regarding the community's opinion of the proposals. The Committee meets at least two times per year, in the spring and fall. Members should expect to volunteer approximately thirty hours of service per year. The FCC periodically engages in special service projects for OSMP, and additional time may be required for these projects. If you are interested in helping to preserve and enhance the quality and diversity of climbing opportunities in the Flatirons, please fill out and submit the following application via mail to: Flatirons Climbing Council, 3935 Carlock Drive, Boulder, CO 80305. All applications are due by May 1, 2003. If you have questions regarding your application please email Dave Turner at TURNLAW@aol.com or call 303.860.9844. - Myke Komarnitsky
Kinda Neat Website Mon Mar 24 12:38:45 2003
Just wanted to mention I put up a short website. - John Gill
Lost+Found - rope and a radio Tue Mar 18 18:03:57 2003
Brent Roaten (brent.roaten)
Hey Mike. After climbing handcracker direct on Saturday (3/15) I made the mistake of rappeling directly down the route and ended up getting my rope stuck over Blokes on the side right at sunset. I had planned on returning Sunday to retrieve my rope but couldn't find a willing partner to belay me up the first pitch of handcracker...anyway , I was wondering if anyone found and retrieved the rope. Thanks

I stumbled upon a single two-way radio while rapping from Shirt Tail Peak on Sunday March 16th. If you can ID it, it's yours. Reply to:clintlocks@hotmail.com
- Myke Komarnitsky
Lost Guidebook Mon Mar 17 19:24:19 2003
I believe I left my Rocky Mtn. National Park-Crags Area Guidebook at the base of Batman Pinnacle (climb Batman and Robin) on Saturday. It has my last name written across the outside of the pages: 'Barnard'. It is very important to me since I use it as a climbing log as well as a guide. I'd really appreciate any help in its return. I can be contacted via email at hrbarnard@yahoo.com.
- Holly Barnard
Gear Found on First Flatiron Mon Mar 17 15:03:49 2003
From: "gaz_solo"

Found some gear on Sunday that were probably used for a belay at the First Flatiron. Email me what I found and I can return them. - Myke Komarnitsky
More Lame Gear Stealing Fri Mar 14 15:36:54 2003
Hey Myke, along the same lines as the post on Friday. I had some friends get some backpacks and cds stolen from their car that was parked in the South lot (the passenger window was broken into). I hope this does not become a problem. But I thought that I would put the info out there so that people are that this may be an increasing problem. - Myke Komarnitsky
Gear Stolen at Red Rocks Fri Mar 14 10:57:17 2003
Two of my friends had some trad gear and draws stolen from the base of West Point Crack in Garden of the Gods at about 5:00 on Thursday, March 13. Stolen gear includes: On red 1" webbing: 4 older Trango 3 wheel cams, 2 tri-cams (Brown and dark Blue), 6 draws on long 24-36" runners, 1 standard "D" locking carabiner, and one black Omega belay-style locking carabiner. This gear was taped with yellow gear-marking tape. Also on a flourescent orange sling: 3 Blue Water quickdraws with short runners, 3 oval carabiners, and 2 belay-style Omega locking carabiners, taped with gear-marking blue/pink tape.
Two teenagers; one Asian and one white, were seen in the vicinity, but that is more rumor than substance. In any case, if you have any information about this, please email crusselavage@yahoo.com, and help us all get rid of these characters who drag our collective sport to new lows. Thanks.......chrisR - Myke Komarnitsky
Found Keys Mon Mar 10 12:57:14 2003
On Mar 9, 2003 a set of keys were found at Scout Rock in the South Saint Vrain Canyon. Please send an email to kelmic@techemail.com with the description so I can get them to the rightful owner.
- Ben Mottinger
Mister Rogers Passed Away. Thu Feb 27 07:43:00 2003
Kinda Sad
....

PITTSBURGH - Fred Rogers, who gently invited millions of children to be his neighbor as host of the public television show "Mister Rogers' Neighborhood" for more than 30 years, died of cancer early Thursday. He was 74. - Myke Komarnitsky
New area Added Mon Feb 24 21:50:10 2003
A new area called Ute Pass was just approved, submitted by - Richard M. Wright
Job Opening: Lakewood Link Climbing Gym Fri Feb 21 12:40:42 2003
We are part of a rec center, but are a big gym as far as rec centers go, and have an opening for a route setter/ customer service coming up in a month or so. I am the manager of the gym and would like to get some fresh blood.

I realize we are only a rec center and denver alone has 4 major gyms, but its a fun job and it pays much better than the minimum wage at regular rock gyms because we are owned by the city of Lakewood.

Contact Chris Hanson for more info.
- Ben Mottinger
New icearea Added Fri Feb 21 08:30:59 2003
A new icearea called Cascade Falls was just approved, submitted by - Nate Christiansen
Found Shoes in Morrison Tue Feb 11 00:16:40 2003
NAME: Jason Gilbert
EMAIL: JasonRGilbert@Hotmail.com

I recently found a pair of climbing shoes up on Morrison Mtn. and I'm trying to find their owner. - Jason Gilbert
New icearea Added Tue Feb 11 00:15:57 2003
A new icearea called Rifle Mountain Park was just approved, submitted by - Chad Stebbins
Local Climbers on Nova TV Sun Feb 9 22:50:45 2003
Just a note to let you know- Two of our local climbers, Jon Krakauer and Dan Stone will be on Nova(channel-6) this Tuesday Feb 11th at 7pm. "Mountains of Ice" filmed in 2001 captures the eight person team including Conrad Anker summiting the Antartica's Vinson Massif. - Tony Goffredo
Front Range Freaks Review is Up! Sun Feb 9 00:08:26 2003
I was a little hung over, ok? I was a day later than I wanted to be, but it's just because I made it that much better. Check out our Front Range Freaks Review, and after you see it, post your own thoughts on it! - Myke Komarnitsky
Closures are Here Thu Feb 6 09:50:18 2003
I'm a few days late, but the closures have all been posted. They include eldo, chataqua, and boulder canyon, check them out here. - Myke Komarnitsky
Lost+Found+Lost Tue Feb 4 08:44:42 2003
I found rock shoes in Dream Canyon some time ago and have had no responses to notes on boards. Email me at: vitalimg@aol.com

Found a pair of shoes at the Plotinus Wall near the "Bobsled". Identify to claim. Bob D'Antonio (bobdant@msn.com)

I lost a camera at the North Table Mountain(Golden) crag on Feb. 1 2003. The camera was a small Fuji Discovery series, an older model, with a black carrying case. If anyone has found the camera, please contact Dave at rckclimber@hotmail.com Thanks.
- Myke Komarnitsky
7 Astronauts Lost in Columbia Accident Sat Feb 1 12:06:18 2003
Oh! I have slipped the surly bonds of earth
And danced the skies on laughter-silvered wings;
Sunward I've climbed, and joined the tumbling mirth
Of sun-split clouds and done a hundred things
You have not dreamed of- wheeled and soared and swung
High in the sunlit silence. Hov'ring there,
I've chased the shouting wind along, and flung
My eager craft through footless halls of air.
Up, up, up the long, delirious burning blue
I've topped the wind-swept heights with easy grace
Where never Lark, or even Eagle flew -
And while with silent lifting mind, I've trod
The high untrespassed sanctity of space,
Put out my hand and touched the face of God.

- John Gillespie Magee, Jr, 1922-1944

- Myke Komarnitsky
Lost Guidebook Thu Jan 30 22:41:17 2003
NAME: Austin Arensberg
EMAIL: austinarensberg@hotmail.com
I was wondering if I could post up on your site a "Best of Boulder Bouldering" guidebook I lost up near sacred cliffs on Sun. Jan. 26. Thank you.- Austin - Myke Komarnitsky
Found Shoes on Flag Tue Jan 28 10:33:12 2003
Found a pair of climbin shoes at flagstaff and thought I'd send out a message. My email is jegartner@yahoo.com if these belong to anyone. - Myke Komarnitsky
New icearea Added Mon Jan 27 20:25:19 2003
A new icearea called Rifle Mountain Park was just approved, submitted by - Chad Stebbins
New area Added Mon Jan 27 20:17:35 2003
A new area called Combat Rock was just approved, submitted by - Kurt Godwin
Lost: Gloves in Boulder Canyon Fri Jan 24 09:51:14 2003
Anyone find they came home with an extra pair of new ice gloves, mens Small. My climbing partners came down after me, and put them in someone elses pack, not realizing I had left them behind. Happened at boulder canyon 1/10 about 3pm. Cindy Gagnon (cgagnon@qwest.com) - Myke Komarnitsky
Found: Ice Gear in Boulder Thu Jan 23 10:55:23 2003
Lose something? Ice gear found in Boulder Canyon, 1/22/03. Call & identify. 303-440-5100. (Manny rocknoggin@hotmail.com) - Myke Komarnitsky
3 year anniversary Thu Jan 23 08:45:44 2003
Yesterday was our 3 year anniversary of the creation of this site. It was a sunny day in eldo, and we were searching for positively fourth street, when one of us asked "hey, why don't we do our own online guide?"

It's pretty amazing how site this has grown. I've put untold hours into this, and have been rewarded by hearing about how many unproductive hours climbers have spent looking at it. But perhaps that is what this site is: entertainment. It can help you dream of that which you want to do, or will do, and prod you to make a "when" on that dream. Or it allows you to remember that great climb, rehash the beautiful moves, even invite you to share your story with the community.

There's a lot of things that could be better, of course, and maybe someday I'll even get to them all and say, "there. I'm done." But I doubt it. Every step higher on the mountain lets you see further, and know the possibilities that lie beyond. And while this is a worthwile endeavor, this is not the only mountain I want to climb.

What lies ahead this year? Personally, I am going back to school, and getting more involved in an organization that I think does a lot of good for kids. My involvement may lessen with climbingboulder.com. Don't worry, I'm not giving up on it, or just showing up once a month.... but I think the 2 hours a day routine is unsustainable.

I'd like to say thank you. We've set up the rules, but it's you, the humble reader, and you, the not-so-humble poster, that is really the heart of the site. It's been fun.

See you at the crag.



- Myke Komarnitsky
Submitting beta photos Mon Jan 20 12:20:25 2003
Please...when you're submitting beta photos, DO NOT SUBMIT DUPLICATES. We can link one photo in the database to multiple routes or rocks. In the single submission, simply list all the routes/rocks to which the photo should be linked. I will delete all duplicates so this saves me (and you) some time.

- Ben Mottinger
Turkey Rocks still Closed Thu Jan 16 11:09:36 2003
I just got off the phone with the Forest Service. Turkey Rocks is still closed - as are all the other previously closed areas. There had been talk about the closure being lifted after Jan. 15. It wasn't. I told the ranger that I would pass the word so that there wouldn't be 150 more phone calls to him today. - Ben Faber
Survey at the Spot Tue Jan 14 17:14:44 2003
There is a survey at the Spot for the planned Spot Training & Body Arts Center. Look at the calendar about the comp there this weekend, too.

- Ben Mottinger
Lost Gear on Allosaur Mon Jan 13 14:00:39 2003
Lost blue and green aliens plus 2.5 and 3 tech friends on or around Allosaur in Eldo $50 reward for return. Contact Ken Heiser (kenh11@msn.com). - Myke Komarnitsky
Lost: Gear at Lincoln Falls Fri Jan 10 09:42:17 2003
Lost Gear: OR crampon bag containing
ice screws and quick draws at Lincoln Falls. December 10, 2002. Reward! Contact Daniel Peterson (dapeter@rei.com).
- Myke Komarnitsky
Climbers Lost to Us in 2002 Sun Jan 5 04:04:01 2003
I have no idea how you might handle this so I am sending this news to you directly first. This past year has been a difficult time in terms of climbers passing away. I, like so many others have been deeply and directly affected by the tragic sense of loss. I am saddened to add to the list of fallen for 2002. In the early morning hours of Thanksgiving Day on a climbing road trip Boulder climber Zack Martin died in a roll over accident outside of Phoenix, Az. Zack who was the recirient of many climbing grants and awards including the Anatolli Boukerev award last year would have turned 26 in a few days. Zack had an unquenchable passion for climbing and a "joi de vivre'" that enlivened anywhere he went and anyone he met. There will be a perpetual fund established in his name through the AAC to fund grant money for climbing trips that incorporate humanatarian endeavors. For details contact j.p.parsons@att.net
Tragically, Black Canyon legend Earl Wiggins took his own life on Monday Dec. 30th. in Oregon. Earls' 1 day free solo of the Cruise _back before most people even knew the Black existed_ broke all stardards and conventions of "adventure ascent" and set the stage for the amazing accomplishments we witness today.
Both of these remarkable souls as well as all the others who passed in 2002 will be sorely missed. They will be remembered through their connections and accomplishments. But while you have a moment to reflect look around your self and notice that which abides and those who remain. Take nothing for granted! Thanx. Philo

[Ed. Note: I think of Mike Sofranko, Rod Willard, and Scott Hamilton, other local climbers who died while climbing this year. I pray that 2003 brings less of this type of sadness to our community.]

[1/14/03 - "A sad note, but thanks for the rememberance. Please also add Mike Bearzi and Randy Grandstaff to the list of friends and partners no longer with us." - Chris Archer] - phil broscovak
Lost: Boulder Canyon / Table Mountain Mon Dec 30 09:19:37 2002
lost: a mess of slings tied as well as spectre and a few biners, at happy hour crag or inca stone - it was freezing and terrible at both so i cant remember which. last i saw them was the beginning of december. found: a pair of fancy sun glasses at happy hour, early december. get me a description. thanks for any help. palacial@hotmail.com.

Lost red North Face Mtn. Lite parka at No. Table Mtn. in Golden, CO on Sunday, Dec. 15th. There was a black fleece hat and a pair of black fleece gloves in the pockets. Offering $50 reward. Please call 303-333-6993 or e-mail at peterlosness@juno.com Thanks! BTW - I just had a pair of shoes resoled at Rock and Resole and they did a tremendous job! - Myke Komarnitsky
New area Added Mon Dec 23 15:58:08 2002
A new area called Pinewood Rock was just approved, submitted by - Dan Levison
PCA Comp and the Spot Thu Dec 19 15:54:57 2002
A PCA comp was recently held at the Spot Gym. Read about the comp (linked at the Spot) and look at the updated site and gallery of pictures.

It looks like another comp will be held, unfortunately, the same weekend as the Ouray ice festival at the BRC/Spot.

- Ben Mottinger
New icearea Added Sun Dec 15 23:04:59 2002
A new icearea called Leadville Ice was just approved, submitted by - Lon Black
found: glasses on rewritten Fri Dec 6 15:36:00 2002
Jens Rauschenberger (jrausche@jilau1.colorado.edu)
Found sunglasses: Uvex, blue on Rewritten Redgarden Wall. - Myke Komarnitsky
22,000 Christmas Lights Fri Dec 6 10:22:30 2002
Money spent on 22,000 Christmas Lights: $1000
Time needed to get them up: ~40 hours
Total Amps: 78.6
Having an eccentric brother: 24 years
Turning my brother's Christmas lights on and off via a web browser: priceless

You should check this out; Clark Griswold in the flesh. *22,000* Christmas lights.
www.komar.org/xmas/

What's even sicker is if you visit this page between 6pm and 10pm (mst) you can turn them ON and OFF via the web.

www.komar.org/cgi-bin/xmas_webcam

Happy Holidays,
- Myke Komarnitsky
Lost and Found Thu Dec 5 15:22:21 2002
Mark Felber (markfelber@earthlink.net):
I found an ice axe on the Long's Peak Trail Wednesday night 12/4. I think it may belong to the party that was doing Dream Weaver that day. Please contact me and describe it so I can return it.

--------
Tom Wilson (tomw@csd.net)
I don't know if this is worthy of posting on www.ClimbingBoulder.com, perhaps you will decide:

Last Sunday I dropped what amounted to about $100 worth of new gear (blush - blush) off of Redgarden Wall while cleaning our first pitch. It's never that old frayed nut stopper you drop, now is it? Our thanks to the climbers who picked it up off the trail and stashed it for us in our nearby pack. We had a great day climbing, and finding that gear when we got down was the icing on the cake. Maybe it's just that festive December holiday atmosphere talking but I'd like to think everyone who climbs is so trustworthy. Again we'd like to thank our benefactors. There are a few beers in it for them if they care to contact me! - Myke Komarnitsky
Hat by Lucid Dreaming Sun Dec 1 22:15:42 2002
Found a Mountain Hardware hat up at the base of Lucid Dreaming on Friday, 11.22 afternoon. Contact me to identify and claim. 303.888.7119 Tommy Painter - Anonymous Coward
Found: Rope by Tagger Mon Nov 25 11:15:29 2002
A rope was found at the base of Tagger in Eldo on wind tower on Nov 23. If it is yours, please contact me via email at kelmic@techemail.com . - Myke Komarnitsky
ACE looking for FHRC members Fri Nov 22 08:45:22 2002
The Action Committee for Eldorado is seeking climbers interested in serving on the Fixed Hardware Review Committee (FHRC). There are several openings this year for one or two year terms, and the deadline for applications is 1/31/03. Interested parties can get more information here.

Also feel free to contact us at ace@ACEEldo.org if there are any questions.

- Ben Mottinger
Leonid Meteor Shower Tonight Mon Nov 18 08:48:23 2002
"(CNN) -- One of the most celebrated meteor showers will peak early Tuesday over Europe and North America, sending hundreds or thousands of fireballs streaking through the atmosphere each hour."

Boulder Weather Report and the CNN Story. - Myke Komarnitsky
New icearea Added Thu Nov 14 11:54:23 2002
A new icearea called Eldora was just approved, submitted by - Dougald MacDonald
Yvon Chouinard on NPR Tue Nov 12 08:30:21 2002
A story about climbing on NPR!? Well, not really. Read (or listen) about it on NPR.org. - Ben Mottinger
Today is Veteran's Day Mon Nov 11 16:56:37 2002
It is the Soldier,
not the reporter who has given us freedom of press

It is the Soldier,
not the poet who has given us freedom of speech

It is the Soldier,
not the campus organizer who gives us freedom to demonstrate

It is the Soldier who salutes the flag,
who serves beneath the flag,
and whose coffin is draped by the flag,
who allows the protester to burn the flag.

Father Dennis Edward O'Brien, USMC
- Myke Komarnitsky
Shunning the A.C. and ice conditions Sun Nov 10 21:58:59 2002
Two upgrades tonight:

1) made it harder to post as an anonymous coward.
2) made it a lot easier to post ice conditions.

enjoy. - Myke Komarnitsky
New icearea Added Fri Nov 8 16:18:49 2002
A new icearea called Bear Creek ice was just approved, submitted by - Anonymous Coward
New icearea Added Fri Nov 8 16:18:35 2002
A new icearea called South St. Vrain ice was just approved, submitted by - Anonymous Coward
The Spot Gym Fri Nov 8 08:20:59 2002
The Spot opens today--read the article in the Daily Camera.

- Ben Mottinger
Castleton Tower Preservation Tue Nov 5 08:39:45 2002
Article on the subject today in the Daily Camera:

Read the article. - Ben Mottinger
Need a Job? Thu Oct 31 14:09:20 2002
Wilderness Exchange Unlimited is Now Hiring

We are looking for sales professionals committed to the climbing lifestyle. Full and part time positions are currently available. Extensive climbing experience and 1-2 years of retail experience prefered. Contact Don or Steve at (303)964-0708 for details.

- Myke Komarnitsky
Lost+Found & Vacation Wed Oct 23 13:33:40 2002
I was hoping you could post this on the lost and found section of your site. Thanks a lot. I lost a pair of shoes at the sport park about a weak ago. They are Sportiva Katanas. If anyone has found them please contact me at chris061080@aol.com or at (303) 440-8301. Thanks, Chris

Jens Rauschenberger (jrausche@jilau1.colorado.edu)
purple Lowe helmet in Eldo Canyon this Sunday, close to the Milton Boulder.

Also, I'm out of town for the next 5 days, so hold down the fort and don't get out of control on the Hound Dog discussion.... did anyone see the truck that hit me on Pearl Street last night? i didn't get the license plate... - Myke Komarnitsky
It's My Birthday Tue Oct 22 00:19:16 2002
Wheee. If anyone wants to buy me a shot we'll be at Old C's at 9pm. I'll be the one getting hammered.

I am carrying 7 animals in my hands and stuffed down my shirt, and I just about drowned myself bobbing for apples.

- Myke Komarnitsky
Fort Collins Climber "good" Fri Oct 18 12:00:22 2002
From the Daily Camera...


Climber's condition upgraded to good

A man who fell over the weekend while climbing in Eldorado Canyon State Park was listed in good condition Thursday night.

Kelly Elverum's vital signs are stable and he is conscious, according to officials at St. Anthony's Central Hospital.

Elverum, 34, of Fort Collins, fell 40 feet in the park Sunday after his climbing partner lost control while lowering him to the ground, according to witnesses. He suffered head injuries and was unconscious at the scene.
- Myke Komarnitsky
Want a Belay? Wed Oct 16 12:39:20 2002
- Myke Komarnitsky
Cool Photo Contest Tue Oct 15 22:37:33 2002
Sean over at Camp4.com is running a photo contest with lots of schwag to give away. Check it out.... - Myke Komarnitsky
Climber Hurt in Eldo Mon Oct 14 12:09:09 2002
Climber Injured on Darkness 'Til Dawn.....

ELDORADO CANYON STATE PARK
Fort Collins climber injured in fall

A 34-year-old male rock climber from Fort Collins was airlifted to St. Anthony's Central Hospital in Denver after falling 40 feet in Eldorado Canyon State Park. According to witnesses, the victim's climbing partner lost control while lowering the climber to the ground. The climber suffered head injuries and was unconscious at the scene. Members of Rocky Mountain Rescue and the Eldorado Springs Fire Department carried the victim about one-quarter mile to an ambulance. He was then driven to the Flight for Life helicopter, which was waiting at the Eldorado Springs Fire station. The victim was flown to St. Anthony's, where he underwent tests to determine the extent of his injuries.


From the Discussion List:
I was in Eldo, watched the rescue; the guy looked in bad shape. The rescue guys were doing an impressive job of getting the him down the talus, lowering/carrying the stretcher tree to tree. According to some other climbers nearby, the accident involved someone being lowered off of Darkness 'til Dawn. Of course, a sixty-meter rope (who knows, maybe they had even a shorter rope?) will not be long enough for lowering off the two bolts, as they are about 120 feet up. Their rope went through the belay plate and the climber got pretty badly hurt. Horrible injuries are easy to imagine, as one is usually leaning backwards while being lowered, and the fall zone is bouldery and flattish. He had no helmet. As far as I know, there has never been an accident on Darkness 'til Dawn before. Myself, for Darkness, I usually take two ropes (which works well for protecting the traverse moves into the corner low down). The one-rope descent is to rappel/lower carefully to very close to the end of the rope, then scramble down 25 feet or so on steep third-class rock.
- Myke Komarnitsky
Are we Good or do we Suck? [Updated] Sun Oct 13 00:20:29 2002
FrontRangeBouldering.com spray on whether this is a good site or not.

Update: Got this email this morning...
Hey Myke,
I posted a message on frontrangebouldering.com last week, and it mentioned how your site is much better
and they banned me from their board ever since!!!! f'ing ridiculous. Your site is much better, I
absolutely love it, a great resource.

Jay - Myke Komarnitsky
Gear on Verschniedung Sat Oct 12 22:56:22 2002
Adam Babcock (adambabcock@interfold.com)

I left my rack on the top of Verschniedung on 10/5. Black Diamond Camelots #1 and smaller, set of nuts, set of tri-cams. Please call 303-333-3699. - Myke Komarnitsky
New Improved Search Function Fri Oct 11 16:43:52 2002
I've improved the rock route search function, allowing a lot more precision when looking for routes of a certain rating. Additionally, I've thrown up a little 'mini' search function on the front page. For those quick fixes...

- Myke Komarnitsky
Lost+Found: Rack in Eldo & Shoes Mon Oct 7 15:43:03 2002
Kevin Craig (krcraig@dimensional.com)
Found a pair of shoes at the Amphitheater on Saturday. ID them via e-mail and I'll get them back to you.

David Jones (djjones@jila.colorado.edu)
Found on 10/6 in Eldo large amount of gear. Email to claim. - Myke Komarnitsky
More volunteer stuff this weekend Thu Oct 3 16:00:14 2002
10/5-6 - Adopt-a-Crag Day in the Flatirons, sponsored by the Flatirons Climbing Council. For more info, contact Dan Bereck at 303-499-1626.

10/5-6 - Adopt Shelf Road - 10th Annual Volunteer Weekend - Contact RMFI for more info, 719-471-7736 - Myke Komarnitsky
Reminder: Celebrate Eldo Thu Oct 3 13:14:31 2002
Celebrate Eldo is here this weekend:

Saturday, October 5: Climb-a-thon
Sunday, October 6: Chalk Clean-up and Trailwork
...then we'll Party...
Wednesday, October 9: Neptune's in Boulder
For all the details go to...

www.aceeldo.org/celebrate_eldorado/. You'll need an invite for the Neptune's party, see www.sportiva.com/celebrateeldo.

Finally a little humor which probably at least a few of you will apprciate:


To: myke@komar.org
Subject: Re: Celebrate Eldo!

hey Myke! It's time to show your support for Eldorado by flooding inboxes all over Boulder! Woo hoo!!

Sorry, but if I get one more email about this thing I'm going to kick someone in the nuts.

cheers,
[xx], Celebrate Sport Park!
- Myke Komarnitsky
Goran Kropp Dies in Fall Wed Oct 2 11:02:09 2002
Goran Kropp died in a rock climbing fall Monday near Yakima, Wash. when he took a 60' whipper off the top of Sunshine Wall in the Frenchman Coulee area near Vantage. He struck a ledge and then hit the ground, pronounced deaad of head injuries at the scene. He was 5' from the top when he peeled according to his follower. News Reports Here, and report from hisbelayer on cascadeclimbers.com. - Myke Komarnitsky
New area Added Tue Sep 24 23:46:51 2002
A new area called Big Elk Meadows was just approved, submitted by: - Richard M. Wright
Ratings/Stars/Photo Uploads Tue Sep 24 20:03:54 2002
As some of you have noticed, there's been some bugginess with these new functions. I've fixed/updated a number of them.... most notably, the photo upload script now does take the climber's name correctly. - Myke Komarnitsky
Celebrate Eldo! Tue Sep 24 17:04:17 2002
A couple of quick updates: 1, the party will be at Neptune's. And two, I should mention that we are Silver Level Sponsors of Celebrate Eldorado. Are we the shit or what??



- Myke Komarnitsky
Salathe Speed Record Tue Sep 24 09:18:07 2002
-----Original Message-----
From: Hans Florine flt [mailto:Hans@speedclimb.com]
Sent: Saturday, September 21, 2002 8:03 AM
Subject: Yuji - Salathe 2002!

September 19th- Yuji FREE CLIMBED the whole Salathe route* in 13 hours!

  • he took the offwidth variation below the spire, and the Huber variation instead of the Teflon corner. BIG LINK UP! - Yuji climbed from Sois le tois ledge to Long Ledge in TWO PITCHES! He belayed at the lip of the roof/beginning-of-the-headwall!

-----------
No falls in this 13 hours! Amazing. Tommy did this with no falls in 19 hours.

The link-up Yuji did is normally done as FIVE pitches. Even by Jim Herson, though Jim has linked from Sous Le Toit to the roof (just two pitches). The first pitch of Sous Le Toit has been rated from 11b to 11d. I've free climbed on TR (with lots of hanging and power belaying) and it seems to be at least 11c to lead. The next pitch is rated 12b. When Jim linked these pitches, he called it 12d. Yuji put those two together with the Salathe Roof pitch (12a). This combo has got to be 13a.

Then Yuji climbed the entire headwall in one pitch. This is normally done as two these days, but Skinner/Piana did it as three pitches, I think. They are both 13b, I think. I think Jim Herson has nearly linked these pitches before. Yuji is likely the first to do it and after all the other climbing, this is truly amazing. The link-up has to be 13c/d for these pitches as there isn't really any rest. Heck, both Herson and Caldwall have fall right at the anchors at the top of the first headwall pitch before, yet Yuji had to launch straight into the 13b Boulder Problem pitch. The dude is STRONG!!

It must be noted that Yuji avoided two of the hardest pitches on the route: the 13c 19th pitch (only Herson had redpointed this pitch) and the Teflon Corner (12d and a short crux, but an EXTREMELY technique stemming crux).

Exciting news from the Valley, indeed! Hopefully it will motivated you to get out and do something great.
- Bill Wright
Lost+Found Sun Sep 22 20:52:35 2002
Found a pair of shoes at High Wire in Clear Creek. E-mail me the identity and we'll work out a way to return them. (dbranstr@jeffco.k12.co.us)

Was climbing Long John Wall on the West Ridge yesterday (9-21) and I dropped a Red Alien with a purple Petzl draw from the crux finger crack at the top. My guess is that it landed and stayed securely on the middle ledge on the wall. If anyone spots it I would appreciate it being returned or at least being told its whereabouts so I might go retrieve it myself. Thanks Adam Hicks (climbhoser@yahoo.com) - Myke Komarnitsky
Plagiarism :-( Thu Sep 19 23:06:15 2002
I hope everyone knows what this word means--especially if you're adding routes to this site. We cannot tolerate any sort of plagiarism or the site will not exist.

I think nearly everyone understands that one of the goals of this site is to provide a resourse for climbing beta in the contributer's own words. Otherwise, what's the point of having a second opinion on a route? Just paste a whole guidebook onto the web.

Unfortunately, we had an instance of blatant plagiarism. I'll post Bernard Gillett's comment on such a route (which has been since deleted). Let's not make this a habit or the quality or plain existence of this site may no longer be.

If you're still not clear about legal matters, please read the Terms of Use for this site.

Thanks.


-----------
It's been said that imitation is the most sincere form of flattery (something like that), but I draw the line at plagiarism.

Compare the following passage that I wrote on page 165 of my guidebook to what you have submitted above: "This route is the lowest of the seven; it climbs the south face of Basilica and Belfry (8 bolts with continuous climbing). The thin spire on the right (the Belfry) may sprout a route in the future."

Yours is not the first route description on this site that sounds suspiciously like my writing, but it's the first I am aware of where I've been quoted verbatim. I've also had my work copied in another guidebook (I'll spare the author public embarrassment by not mentioning his name here). It is disturbing, at best, to find my prose showing up where it shouldn't, especially when someone else earns money from it (not the case here for you, (name taken out), though it's possible the owners of this site realize monetary gains for their endeavors). You also copied my guide in the other routes you submitted for the (name taken out).

It takes considerable time, skill, and financial investment to write a good book. Though I have no intention (nor interest) of pursuing any legal action, I think it's best that my intellectual property remains intact, and I'd hazard a guess that my publisher would view such plagiarism as a rather more egregious offense than I have.

Play by the rules - you may come to appreciate a well-written guidebook after being forced to describe 1300 routes in your own words. (Don't try this at home, as you'll surely come to grief after writing the phrase "right-facing dihedral" for the thousandth time).

Thanks, Bernard - Ben Mottinger
Celebrate Eldorado! Wed Sep 18 16:31:23 2002
The second week in October, Action Committee for Eldorado will be putting on Celebrate Eldorado. If you've ever climbed in Eldorado Canyon, you know what a special place it is. Now is the time for you to help keep it special for climbers and children.

List of Events:

A Weekend in Eldorado
Saturday, 5 October, 2002
Climb-a-thon, 8:00 am - 4:00 pm

Sunday, 6 October, 2002
Chalk Cleanup, 9:00 am - 3:00 pm
Trail Work, 9:00 am - 1:00 pm

Party for Eldorado, Rave-style!

Wednesday 9 October, 2002
Swag, Beer, and Silent Auction Sponsored by Trango/Stoneware and La Sportiva.
6:00 pm til it's over, Admission $5. Location is Neptune's.


check out the ACE website for more info!



- Myke Komarnitsky
Rope Soloist Hurt in Eldo Mon Sep 16 10:27:41 2002
The Daily Camera Article.

There were a couple odd details with this one. The victim was rope soloing with a Gri-gri and gear. When he fell, he wasn't wearing his climbing shoes or a helmet. He also had a #4 Camalot with two lobes wired shut (probably because the trigger had broke). One of the two lobes that did function had a severely bent wire with a little fraying.
He landed on a sloping, rocky ledge that was maybe 50 feet up and right from the anchors of the first pitch of T2. Two people got up to the victim before Alex and I did. Then the EMT and others members of Rocky Mountain Rescue
jugged up immediately thereafter. He had cranial and wrist fractures and had to have his chest popped twice to relieve pleural pressure. One account from a member of RMR that happened to be climbing Touch and Go at the time of the accident said that the soloist probably fell from 20 ft above his anchor. His anchor had three pieces for upward pull (a small stopper, a medium stopper and a small/medium sized cam). He also had one larger cam clove hitched to the rope for downward pull. Alex will probably post a
message relaying his version of the set-up since he was the one that investigated the soloist's anchor.

RMR did a good job with the evac considering the position of the climber and rock. We should all appreciate their efforts and support. I know I do.

Lon
- Lon Black
FRB poll - CB.com is tops! Sun Sep 15 21:29:40 2002
Nice acronym title, perhaps, but www.frontrangebouldering.com has a poll asking "What is your favorite climbing site to visit?" The Results Show ClimbingBoulder.com as #2 on the list, after
climbXmedia.com. Whoop de doo for us. - Myke Komarnitsky
A Number of new functions. Sun Sep 15 21:29:40 2002
As you may have noticed, we've added a number of new statistics to the site over the weekend. I wish I'd been smart enough 18 months ago to do this, but regardless it's been done now. Basically, the point is to separate comments into different categories, so that people who are interested in arguing over how Hard a Route is, or on how "good" (depends upon how you Define Quality, I guess) can do so without making a route page 20 pages long.

Another new addition is the Gear Alert box. This is meant for times where you want to report specifically on the status and nature of possibly suspect gear on a route. Read disclaimer before using this feature. - Myke Komarnitsky
Pack taken at base of 3rd Flatiron Sat Sep 14 16:35:17 2002
I had a backpack stolen from the east bench of the third flat friday night. Arc'teryx Borea, Platypus hydration system, hexes, coupla biners, cash and license. if anyone knows anything, please email me - srthompson80401@yahoo.com Thanks - Scott Thompson
Big Update Fri Sep 13 22:34:54 2002
I kinda went nuts in the last 36 hours, and revamped the comments, gps, stars, ratings, gear, forms. I don't know if everything works, but I'm in desperate need for a beer, so screw it. Add a comment to a route, and check it out.
- Myke Komarnitsky
9/11/2002 Wed Sep 11 00:41:40 2002
It's been one year since the WTC attack, and today the television will be full of tributes and montages, and commercial ventures everywhere will offer patriotic discounts on their products. While we salute their intentions, we will not do the same.

"The tree of liberty must be refreshed from time to time with the blood of patriots & tyrants." - Thomas Jefferson

As you enjoy your freedom today, remember the tragedy of those who died one year ago today. Realize the history of men and women who have given their lives for your freedom. And be grateful for those who give up their freedoms today to continue to protect yours.

May God Bless America.

----------------------------------------------

Army Sgt. 1st Class Christopher James Speer, 28, of Albuquerque, N.M.
Speer was one of five U.S. soldiers injured in a July 27 ambush while hunting for al Qaeda and Taliban fighters in eastern Afghanistan. He was moved shortly after to a hospital in Germany, where he died Aug. 12. Speer was based at U.S. Army Special Operations Command at Fort Bragg, N.C.

Air Force Tech. Sgt. Sean M. Corlew, 37, of Thousand Oaks, Calif.
A member of the Air Force's 16th Special Operations Wing at Hurlburt Field, Fla., Corlew was one of three troops killed June 12 when their Air Force MC130-H crashed near an airstrip in the Gardez region of Afghanistan.

Air Force Staff Sgt. Anissa A. Shero, 31, of Grafton, W.Va.
Shero, of the Air Force's 16th Special Operations Wing, was killed June 12 when an Air Force MC130-H crashed near an airstrip in the Gardez region of Afghanistan.

Army Sgt. 1st Class Peter P. Tycz II, 32, of Tonawanda, N.Y.
Tycz, assigned to the Army's 3rd Special Forces Group, Fort Bragg, N.C., was killed in the June 12 crash of an Air Force MC130-H near an airstrip in the Gardez region of Afghanistan.

Sgt. Gene Arden Vance Jr., 38, of West Virginia
Gene Arden Vance, a U.S. Special Forces sergeant, was fatally wounded when his unit came under heavy fire while on patrol in eastern Afghanistan on May 19, and died while waiting to be evacuated. The 38-year-old soldier from Morgantown, W. Va., was recently married and had canceled his honeymoon plans when he was called up to serve in Afghanistan with the 19th Special Forces Unit. He is survived by his wife Lisa and a daughter.

Staff Sgt. Brian Craig, 27, of Texas
Craig was one of four soldiers killed April 15 in an explosion in Afghanistan. Craig and the other victims were killed when old Chinese-made rockets they were attempting to dismantle exploded. Craig was a member of the 710th Explosive Ordnance Detachment based in San Diego.

Staff Sgt. Justin Galewski, 28, of Kansas
Galewski was killed in Afghanistan April 15 when rockets he was attempting to dismantle exploded. He was a member of the 710th Explosive Ordnance Detachment based in San Diego.

Sgt. Jamie Maugans, 27, of Kansas
Maugans was killed April 15 in Afghanistan when rockets he was attempting to dismantle exploded. He was a member of the 710th Explosive Ordnance Detachment based in San Diego.

Sgt. 1st Class Daniel Romero, 30, of Colorado
Romero, of the Colorado Army National Guard, was killed April 15 in Afghanistan when rockets he was attempting to dismantle exploded. He was a member of the 19th Special Forces Group based in Pueblo, Colo. He is survived by his wife and parents.

Chief Petty Officer Matthew J. Bourgeois, 35, of Talahassee, Fla.
Bourgeois, a Navy SEAL, was killed after stepping on and setting off a land mine March 28 during a training mission near the U.S. base at Kandahar airport in Afghanistan, officials said. Another serviceman suffered a non-life-threatening wound.

Sgt. Bradley S. Crose, 27, of Orange Park, Fla.
Crose, a member of the 1st Battalion of the 75th Ranger Regiment, based at Hunter Army Airfield in Savannah, Ga., was one of six U.S. troops killed March 4 after their helicopter came under intense fire near the Afghan town of Gardez, southeast of Kabul. Crose was a tae kwon do master who competed on a national level.

Sgt. Philip J. Svitak, 31, of Joplin, Mo.
Svitak, a flight engineer assigned to 2nd Battalion of the 160th Special Operations Aviation Regiment in Fort Campbell, Ky., was one of six U.S. troops killed March 4 after their helicopter came under intense fire near the Afghan town of Gardez, southeast of Kabul. His mother recalled him saying, "If they send me over there and anything happens to me, I'm proud to die for my country." Svitak left behind a wife and two sons, ages 2 and 4.

Spc. Marc A. Anderson, 30, of Brandon, Fla.
Anderson, a member of the 1st Battalion of the 75th Ranger Regiment, based at Hunter Army Airfield in Savannah, Ga., was one of six U.S. troops killed March 4 after their helicopter came under intense fire near the Afghan town of Gardez, southeast of Kabul. Anderson left behind a wife and three sons.

Pfc. Matthew A. Commons, 20, of Boulder City, Nev.
Commons, a member of the 1st Battalion of the 75th Ranger Regiment, based at Hunter Army Airfield in Savannah, Ga., was one of six U.S. troops killed March 4 after their helicopter came under intense fire near the Afghan town of Gardez, southeast of Kabul. His father and grandfather were U.S. Marines.

Tech. Sgt. John A. Chapman, 36, of Waco, Texas.
Chapman was one of six U.S. troops killed March 4 after their helicopter came under intense fire near the Afghan town of Gardez, southeast of Kabul. Chapman, who received two Air Force commendation medals, left behind a wife and two daughters.

Senior Airman Jason D. Cunningham, 26, of Camarillo, Calif.
Cunningham, a pararescueman and combat medic with the 38th Rescue Squadron, stationed at Moody Air Force Base near Valdosta, Ga., was one of six U.S. troops killed March 4 after their helicopter came under intense fire near the Afghan town of Gardez, southeast of Kabul. He left behind a wife and two daughters, ages 2 and 4.

Petty Officer 1st Class Neil C. Roberts, 32, of Woodland, Calif.
Roberts was killed March 4 after falling from his helicopter during fighting near the Afghan town of Gardez, southeast of Kabul. One of 12 children, he also left behind a wife and an 18-month-old son.

Chief Warrant Officer Stanley L. Harriman, 34, of Wade, N.C.
Harriman was killed March 2 in a ground attack shortly after American forces, joined by Afghan and other allied troops, began an offensive against al Qaeda fighters near the town of Gardez. The father of two children, Harriman was assigned to the 3rd Special Forces Group at Fort Bragg, N.C.

One of two crew members aboard a U.S. Navy F-14 fighter jet was killed March 2 when the jet crashed in the Mediterranean Sea as it took off from the aircraft carrier USS John F. Kennedy. The soldier's name was not immediately released.

Staff Sgt. Walter F. Cohee III, 26, of Wicomico, Md.
Cohee joined the Marine Corps Aug. 3, 1993, and was a communications navigations systems technician. Cohee died Jan. 20 aboard a CH-53E helicopter that crashed south of Kabul, Afghanistan. I knew SSgt Cohee personall and he was an outstanding Marine and I will miss him dearly.

Sgt. Dwight J. Morgan, 24, of Mendocino, Calif.
Morgan joined the Marine Corps August 15, 1998 and was a helicopter mechanic. Morgan died Jan. 20 aboard a CH-53E helicopter that crashed south of Kabul, Afghanistan.

Capt. Matthew W. Bancroft, 29, of Shasta, Calif.
The command pilot of the KC-130 plane that crashed in Pakistan on Jan. 9, Bancroft had been a Marine since 1994. His parents said he was seven years old when he decided he wanted to be a pilot.

Capt. Daniel G. McCollum, 29, of Richland, S.C.
McCollum joined the Marines in 1993 and was the co-pilot of the KC-130 that crashed on Jan. 9.

Gunnery Sgt. Stephen L. Bryson, 35, of Montgomery, Ala.
Bryson had just called his mother on Jan. 8, his birthday, to tell his mother he was thinking about her — one day before he was killed along with six other Marines when their KC-130 crashed. He joined the Marines straight out of high school in 1983.

Staff Sgt. Scott N. Germosen, 37, of Queens, N.Y.
A 19-year-veteran of the Marines (just ONE year away from full retirement), Germosen was the loadmaster on the KC-130 that crashed Jan. 9 in Pakistan.

Sgt. Nathan P. Hayes, 21, of Lincoln, Wash.
In his hometown of Wilbur, Wash., Hayes was remembered as a football player who worked harder than many of the others on his high school team, even if he did not have as much talent as some athletes. He joined the Marines in 1999 and was the flight mechanic on the KC-130 that crashed Jan. 9 in Pakistan.

Lance Cpl. Bryan P. Bertrand, 23, of Coos Bay, Ore.
Bertrand could have been home a month ago, but volunteered for another tour of duty as flight navigator. He recently wrote his parents that he had saved enough money to buy an electric guitar. He was among the seven who died on the KC-130 that crashed on Jan. 9 in Pakistan.

Sgt. Jeannette L. Winters, 25, of Du Page, Ill.
A radio operator who joined the Marines in 1997, she was the first U.S. servicewoman to die since the U.S.-led Afghan bombing began in early October. She was on the KC-130 that crashed on Jan. 9. Her high school track coach remembered her as someone who gave everything she had, even if she was in physical pain, for her team.

Sgt. 1st Class Nathan Ross Chapman, 31, of San Antonio, Texas
Chapman was killed Jan. 4 by hostile, small arms fire in eastern Afghanistan, near the city of Khost. Chapman, a special forces soldier who has spent more than 12 years in the military, was the first U.S. combatant killed by enemy fire.

Sgt. 1st Class Daniel Petithory, 32, of Cheshire, Mass.
One of three special forces soldiers killed Dec. 5 when a U.S. bomb missed its Taliban target north of Kandahar in southern Afghanistan. He was a member of the Army's 3rd Battalion, 5th Special Forces Group, stationed at Fort Campbell, Ky. His brother described him as a practical joker who had always wanted to join the Army.

Staff Sgt. Brian Cody Prosser, 28, of Fraizer Park, Calif.
Prosser died with Petithory and a third soldier on Dec. 5 when a U.S. bomb missed its Taliban target north of Kandahar in southern Afghanistan. They were all members of the Army's 3rd Battalion, 5th Special Forces Group, stationed at Fort Campbell, Ky.

Master Sgt. Jefferson Donald Davis, 39, of Watauga, Tenn.
Davis was killed with Prosser and Petithory on Dec. 5 when a U.S. bomb missed its Taliban target north of Kandahar in Afghanistan. He was a Green Beret and former high school athlete who leaves behind a wife and three children in Clarksville, Ky.

Navy Fireman Apprentice Michael J. Jakes Jr., 20, of New York City
Jakes died Dec. 4 of head injuries sustained in a fall on the carrier USS Kitty Hawk in the Arabian Sea.

Pvt. Giovanny Maria, 19, of Camden, N.J.
Maria, a 10th Mountain Division soldier, died on Nov. 29 in Uzbekistan from a gunshot wound unrelated to enemy action, according to U.S. officials. The death is currently under investigation.

CIA officer Johnny "Mike" Spann, 32, of Winfield, Ala.
Spann, a former Marine from a small town of 4,500, was questioning Taliban prisoners in a compound near the Afghan city of Mazar-e-Sharif when they erupted in riot. He was killed on Nov. 25, on the first day of the three-day riot, making him the first American to be killed in combat in Afghanistan. U.S. officials say he died of a gunshot wound and was not tortured.

Petty Officer 1st Class Vincent Parker of Preston, Miss.
Parker, 38, was lost at sea Nov. 18 when the suspicious vessel his security team had boarded sank. Parker joined the Navy after graduating from high school, and was supposed to be on his last tour of duty before his retirement from the military. He had been serving aboard the USS Peterson.

Petty Officer 3rd Class Benjamin Johnson of Rochester, N.Y.
Johnson drowned Nov. 18 when a suspicious vessel his security team boarded in the Persian Gulf sank. The 21-year-old had been serving aboard the USS Peterson.

Machinist's Mate Fireman Apprentice Bryant L. Davis, 20, of Chicago
Fell overboard into the Arabian Sea from the USS Kitty Hawk on Nov. 7, and declared dead by the Defense Department on Nov. 10.

Pvt. 1st Class Kristofor T. Stonesifer, 28, of Missoula, Mont.
Stonesifer grew up in Pennsylvania and went on to attend the ROTC program at the University of Montana. An instructor there recalls that Stonesifer left the program early with a desire to become one of the best soldiers in the U.S. Army. He died Oct. 19 when his Black Hawk helicopter crashed upon attempting to land in Pakistan.

Spc. Jonn J. Edmunds, 20, of Cheyenne, Wyo.
Edmunds, who died Oct. 19 with Stonesifer in the helicopter accident in Pakistan, was planning to make a career out of the military, according to friends and family. "He was just a happy-go-lucky guy," said John Steichen, the father of a close friend of Edmunds. Steichen told The Associated Press that Edmunds wanted to be a Ranger and "wanted to be where the action was."

Air Force Master Sgt. Evander Andrews, 36, of Solon, Maine
He died Oct. 10 in a forklift accident while he was helping construct an airstrip in Qatar. Friends and colleagues described Andrews as an ace mechanic and cook. His widow, Judy Andrews, said her husband was devoted to his family and the Air Force.
- Myke Komarnitsky
Camp Chairs Stolen in Rifle Tue Sep 10 00:15:15 2002
From Melissa...

just wanted to give a heads up that we had some camp chairs stolen from our campsite in Rifle this weekend. Don't know if this is a new trend there, but it is a reminder to be careful with your belongings while out climbing!


That's bush man...
- Myke Komarnitsky
Kryptonite not chipped? Tue Sep 10 00:03:25 2002
"Before you accuse Legrand of being a hold-chipping loser, as now seems fashionable, ask yourself whether your opinion is based on solid evidence, or whether you're feeding off and perpetuating a myth based on dodgy journalism and Chinese whispers. I am willing to give one the world's best climbers the benefit of the doubt."

That's an excerpt from Dave Pegg's website Wolverine Publishing discussing Francois Legrand's attempts on Kryptonite and the attending controversy over whether he chipped the route. Very interesting reading, you should check it out.

If you're going to head up to Rifle or No Name, make sure to check out Dave's new book, Western Sloper, as well. - Myke Komarnitsky
Craig DiMartino Update Wed Sep 4 22:47:51 2002
Craig is progressing well. As of today, he is going to therapy twicw a day where he walks using his left foot and a walker. He is still not putting any weight on the right foot. He has increased his walks to over fifty feet now. It doesn't sound far, but when you think back that not even two months ago,no one was sure he was going to live, fifty feet is a mile. He is still bothered by a torn rotator cuff that will require surgery at some point down the road. He is also facing a possible additional neck surgery as his neck is not healing as they had hoped. He is facing some paralysis in the midsection, but at this point doctors are unsure if the feelings will return to him. If alll goes well, Craig is to be at home by the end of September, which is way cool. He has a long, long road of recovery ahead of
him with plenty of bumps in that road. The mountain of bills grows every day. I have started a fund for him in his hometown and would appreciate if you could include it in this article. If any of you readers are so inclined to want to help. they can mail a check to;

Craig DeMartino
c/o Patriot Bank
2228 State Hill Road
Wyomissing, Pa. 19610

I appreciate you printing this update and bank address.

Sincerely.
John M DeMartino - Myke Komarnitsky
Found: Rack in RMNP Mon Sep 2 21:20:53 2002
Found 1/2 a rack at the base of Days Of Heaven, Rock of Ages, RMNP on Monday September 2, 2002. Contact me to identify. - Bruce Hodgkins
New area Added Fri Aug 30 16:51:37 2002
A new area called Hartman Rocks was just approved, submitted by: - Dan Levison
Climbing Kiliminjaro for Cancer Research Tue Aug 27 09:29:40 2002
Very Cool: A bunch of local climbers are heading to Africa to climb Mount Kiliminjaro to raise money for cancer research. In the six days it will take them to climb the peak, they'll Post Daily Updates to their trip.

Check it out when it's happening, or if you can, Help them Out! - Myke Komarnitsky
Sysadmin Work Mon Aug 26 21:25:50 2002
I made a few changes this evening, to the contact forms, the printed pages (thanks Kevin for pushing me to fix these) now don't display any of the pulldowns - which makes total sense, it looks a lot cleaner now. Also fixed/improved a few other functions. Of course, I could have broken something and not realized it, so if you see something amiss, let me know. - Myke Komarnitsky
Hope you Had a Good Weekend Mon Aug 26 06:52:32 2002
I know I did....



More pics of this weekend are here... - Myke Komarnitsky
Lost/Found: Petit Rope/Sport Park/Batman Tue Aug 20 11:14:38 2002
I really gotta build a lost+found module...

Lou and Chad--I followed you up the Petit Grepon 8/17 and managed to rescue your rope. Call me at 719-475-9557 or email Kewashca@aol.com to get it.

ROB ALLEN (tellutwurp@hotmail.com)
hey there, not sure exactly where to post lost and founds, but have decided you could get it to the right place. Sportiva shoes, found on monday 8/19, sport park in boulder canyon. thanks -Rob

Found a belay device at the base of Batman Pinnacle Saturday morning, 8/17/02, e-mail me a description and I'll get it back to you. -- Luke Clarke (lukeclarke@attbi.com) - Myke Komarnitsky
Lost Rope at Vedauwoo Sat Aug 17 13:00:28 2002
Andy Chrysler (andychrysler@att.net)

I found a rope at Vedauwoo. Don' know how to post it on your site or where. Can you help me? - Myke Komarnitsky
Back from Vacation Fri Aug 16 12:59:51 2002
Somehow I survived this trip. Too much beer, cigarettes, cigars, coffee, gambling, and driving later, I arrived in Boulder to 550 emails. It was worth it though...

- Myke Komarnitsky
Galen Rowell dies in Plane Crash Thu Aug 15 16:06:12 2002
"BISHOP, California (AP) -- Nature photographers Galen and Barbara Rowell, whose works were published in National Geographic, Outside and many books, were killed in a plane crash in the eastern Sierra Nevada." CNN and
Outside Magazine. - Myke Komarnitsky
Lost Items Thu Aug 15 14:57:16 2002
Found: one pair of ropes during a morning of playing hookey in the Flatirons. If you are missing a pair, email djjones@jila.colorado with color(s) and location to claim them.

Lost Shoes. Sunday 8/4/02 East Bench Third Flatiron.
Left them at the base, came back for them but they were gone. If anyone found my climbing shoes please email me. Broke and need them back. Thanks Eddie
baumer22@aol.com
- Myke Komarnitsky
See ya! (vacation) Wed Aug 7 08:31:55 2002
I'm out of here for a road trip, Outdoor Retailer show in SLC, possible Mt. Whitney attempt, Party in Napa Valley, Las Vegas for 24 hours. Cigars, beer, red bull, and God knows what else. Photos/problems won't be dealt with for a week. - Myke Komarnitsky
Belay Device Gear Reviews Sat Aug 3 17:18:29 2002
A couple of interesting new belay devices are on the market, and we're one of the very first to bring you an official review of these products. Check out the new Gear Reviews!

Better yet, go and buy one.... test it out... and then add your own thoughts on whether it's worth the money or not. - Myke Komarnitsky
Shadow Canyon - Still Closed Fri Aug 2 13:24:32 2002
From as OSMP ranger...
Sorry I am just now getting this to you. The press release will be out in this weekend's Camera. With the
exception of the Shadow Canyon Closure, all other Raptor closures are lifted as of 8/1/02. Shadow will be
closed until further notice but I do not aniticipate it will be too long.
The extended Shadow Canyon Closure boundaries are the same as always and will close Towers of the Mooon,
Jamcrack Spire, and all of Devil's Thumb Ridge. The Trail corridor through Shadow Canyon is open for use.
We had some late season raptor nesting activity and wanted to give the falcons every oppurtunity to fledge
young. Access to the Maiden will not effected by the continuing closure. Even though the closure for the
Matron is a seperate closure sometimes it is believed that it is part of the Shadow Canyon closure. For that
reason I wanted to let you know that the Matron is open. - Myke Komarnitsky
Lumpy Accident Last Week Thu Aug 1 15:31:10 2002
There was a very nasty accident up at Lumpy last week. Craig DeMartino (from Ft. Collins), very experienced climber, fell about 110' from the top anchor of the first pitch of Whiteman (11c, Guillotine Wall at Lumpy) due to apparent miscommunication between himself and his belayer on the ground. He's in Poudre Valley Hospital Memorial Hospital (in Fort Collins) up here with multiple broken bones and internals, but his skull and spine are intact. He's going to be ok in time. What a miracle.

Update: FIRST, the DeMartino accident took place last Sunday, July 20th. I do have a few more details, but may not really be too additive.

Its another one of these cases we've been hearing about lately for some strange reason - someone getting grievously hurt for lack of proper communication or attention to detail. Its happening to novices as well as to well-seasoned climbers. Think about the Happy Hour accident, Randy Grandstaff, etc, now this.....

I'm not sure of the source on this, but I just received it from a climbing friend as a "semi-official" report:

"The leader (DeMartino) led the first pitch (Whiteman, 11c) successfully and arrived at the anchor (fixed slings, etc.). He thought he was going to be lowered. Meanwhile, the belayer was still on the ground and NOT tied in. He thought the leader was going to bring him up. So when the leader got to the anchors, he took him off belay. The leader leaned back ... and fell in a horizontal position. Upon nearing the ground, his upper body struck a tree, which rotated him into a vertical (feet first) position, which probably saved his life." - Skip Harper
Closures Ending Tonight Wed Jul 31 13:08:22 2002
Yeehaw! It might be a traffic jam up the third tonight, but stuff all over the state is opening up. Get out there and enjoy it! - Myke Komarnitsky
Lost/Stolen Tent at Vedauwoo Tue Jul 30 10:00:46 2002
On Friday, August 26th, I had a Mountain Hardware Room With a View tent stolen from a campsite at Vedauwoo. It is a green tent with a purple stuff sack. If you picked this tent up thinking it was left behind, it wasn't and I'd like it back. Please email me (shansen@atrixlabs.com) if you have my tent or if you know of some rat bastard who's bragging about snagging one. There is a reward for any information leading to the return of my tent and/or the beating of the aforementioned rat bastard. - Scott Hansen
New Function - Stars for routes! Mon Jul 29 19:42:52 2002
A lot of people have requested this feature, and finally it's implemented. If I get motivated, perhaps I'll do the same thing for ratings - that'll be the shit. The update will be fully rolled out tommorrow, but you can see a sample here. - Myke Komarnitsky
Lost Harness in Castlewood Mon Jul 29 15:15:05 2002
Just passing it on.... anyone find this in the 'wood?

Sorry I couldn't figure out how to post anything on the page, but I'm trying to find out if anyone picked up a Black Diamond Momentum Harness (freakin brand new, this was its first use) last Wednesday at the base of the Climber's trail on the picnic table in Castlewood Canyon. Just wondering if you could put this where someone might see it. Post my phone number too if you can. BTW, its black and red.
Thanks,
Scott Robertson
303.809.2646
720.870.3228 - Myke Komarnitsky
Hiker hurt Climbing Second Flatiron Mon Jul 29 15:11:07 2002
From yesterday's Daily Camera.... they call him a climber, but in reality he was a hiker who decided to scramble up the second. Critical condition.... hope he turns out ok. - Myke Komarnitsky
Closures Nearly Done Mon Jul 29 15:11:07 2002
Just a reminder, all the areas closed are about to open up. Who's going to be the first up the Third? - Myke Komarnitsky
New area Added Sun Jul 28 00:20:35 2002
A new area called Hartman Rocks was just approved, submitted by: - Terry Fisher
New Functions for most recent items Thu Jul 25 18:14:58 2002
You're gonna love this. As many of you know, the links on the stats box show you the newest items. Well, one addition is the Beta Photos link, so you can automatically see any new beta photos (like George Bell's great photo of great photo of Ellingwood Ridge.

Secondly, I reworked the Route Comments section to include route/rock/area/ice route/rock/area/features. Looks a lot better and cleaner now. We may tweak it a bit, but it's a huge improvement over how it was. Enjoy! - Myke Komarnitsky
Lost Booty at Happy Hour Mon Jul 22 08:52:11 2002
I saw the "booty found" post on the news section and was wondering if you would post this also, without my email address please - I'm trying to stay spam free!

I found a brand new harness, and some brand new gear (warning stickers still on!) at Happy Hour crag sometime at the beginning of July. Give me a call and identify them, and I'll gladly return them. 303-817-8318.

Cheers,
Stefan - Myke Komarnitsky
Nice Booty! Sun Jul 21 21:15:11 2002
Some cb.com discussion list members got quoted in This Daily Camera Article.... though they got a photo Some Dork. - Myke Komarnitsky
Cob Rock - David L. Burger - Lost Item Sun Jul 21 18:43:18 2002
NAME: melissa
EMAIL: melissalipani@hotmail.com
Is it possible to post somewhere on the site a "found" item at Cob Rock? On Saturday, 7/20, we found a lost item belonging to a David L. Burger. To claim it he can email the above address or call 970-377-8891. Thanks! - Myke Komarnitsky
Summit Photo Trip Report Wed Jul 17 21:31:38 2002
well, not really.... I'm still catching up on a ton of work. However, you can see the photos from 1 of 7 cameras on the trip - 54 photos in all. Check them out Here. - Myke Komarnitsky
Let's Play Name that Summit Tue Jul 16 08:29:36 2002
I've been gone for the past week on a trip to see family and do climbing. Let's see if anyone can figure out what I did. Myself on the left, Kevin Brennan in the middle, and a Mr. Bryan Boots to the right.

- Myke Komarnitsky
System Upgrade Sun Jul 7 13:46:59 2002
Moved some stuff around, set up the architecture a little differently today. Let us know if you see any problems/mistakes/missing pages. - Myke Komarnitsky
New area Added Sun Jul 7 10:05:21 2002
A new area called Buena Vista was just approved, submitted by: - crossad
New CLIMB! book is out Sun Jul 7 10:03:58 2002
"CLIMB!, The History of Rock Climbing in Colorado", Jeff Achey's revised and updated, 25th Anniversity Edition is on the shelves at Neptune's, REI, Boulder Bookstore, etc. This completely re-written edition covers the history of Colorado rock climbing right up to Tommy Caldwell's send of "The Honeymoon is Over", climbed last summer and the only 5.13 on the Diamond. Well-written, exhaustively researched, and with stunning photos, it is a "must-have" for anyone who loves Colorado climbing. Limited-printing hardcover copies can be ordered directly from Jeff at jachey@paintedwall.com. - Steve Levin
BREAKING: Open Space Closure on July 4 Tue Jun 25 16:45:58 2002
Boulder City Open Space will be closed after 3pm on July 4th until the end of the day to ALL people. Apparently the fire danger is that high. It makes sense I guess, but I've never heard of this happening. Anyone want to go for the trifecta by lighting fireworks off the top of the third flatiron that night? Ummm.... don't do that.

Update: Here's the Daily Camera article.

Another Update: Thanks for your posative comments in yesterday's Camera article. It takes the support of our many visitors to keep this program going and to achieve the desired cooperation for this unprecedented decision to close the west part of the Open Space and Mountain Parks system for safety reasons during the 15 hours from 3:00 PM July 4 to 6:00 AM July 5. Everything east of Broadway and Highway 93 will remain open to visitors.

Thanks again and have a safe and happy 4th of July!!!! Delani Wheeler
- Myke Komarnitsky
More sister sites! Tue Jun 25 11:10:27 2002
Continuing our aformentioned path to world domination, we have 2 new sister sites that have started up - Climbingbayarea.com, for the San Francisco bay area, and ClimbingJtree.com. Ready to start planning for road trips?? Be sure to check em out, and contribute beta to get them started if you've been to those areas. Hats off to Aron and Brian Quiter, and Mike Morley, respectively, for getting these two sites up and running. - Myke Komarnitsky
New area Added Thu Jun 20 19:12:14 2002
A new area called Keystone was just approved, submitted by: - Richard M. Wright
Climbers Pass Away Wed Jun 19 10:33:01 2002
On Sunday the 16th Boulder climber Harold Walton passed away peacefully in his sleep. Among his many other accomplishments, Harold will be remembered for the first ascent of "Cussin' Crack" on Castle Rock, the "Walton Traverse" on the Maiden and for being the creator and driving force of the ROCKY MOUNTAIN RESCUE TEAM.

Secondly on the same day, Jules George, Las Vegas climber and owner / operator of REDROCK RESOLE died in a motorcycle accident. Jules was young and vibrant and will be sorely missed by a community still trying to come to grips with the loss of Randy. - phil broscovak
400 routes in Eldo Thu Jun 13 14:30:34 2002
I'm not sure exactly how many routes are in Eldo, but we've got info on over 400 of them. Pretty cool.

Update from a site user: Did some counting while on the FHRC a few years back. There are about 1000 routes. 400 is cool, I agree... - Myke Komarnitsky
More details on 3rd Flatiron accident Wed Jun 12 15:54:56 2002
Wanted to let you know that the guy who fell was with two others and they likely had little to no climbing experience or gear. According to Rocky Mountain Rescue they were using a "hemp" rope (not sure if they were smoking it or tying into it!?). From the east Bench they proceeded up to the tree. From the tree they attempted to cross the channel and presumably get onto the standard route when one of them fell and skidded down to the base of the 3rd. I am unaware if he was roped at the time. He shattered his ankle and had other injuries that kept him in intensive care for a couple of days. We are issuing summonses to his two partners but not to him. It was decided that he learned his lesson the hard way. We have 180 days to issue the summonses. We have all of their information and are waiting for the two others to come see us to collect their summonses. They have agreed to meet us but if not we will deliver them.
- Myke Komarnitsky
New area Added Tue Jun 11 10:44:36 2002
A new area called Old Stage Road was just approved, submitted by: - montay
Land Closure in Pike NF and some BLM Mon Jun 10 13:19:28 2002
Pursuant to 36 CFR 261.5(a) and CFR 9212.2(a), all lands administered by the Pike National Forest and the Bureau of Land Management (BLM) in the following counties: Douglas, Jefferson, Park, Teller, and El Paso are closed for all uses.

Persons are prohibited from being on, or driving on any National Forest or BLM lands. Included in this order are the following prohibitions.

Building, maintaining, attending or using a fire, campfire, charcoal grill, coal or wood burning stove (36 CFR 261.50(a).

Smoking, except within an enclosed vehicle or building (36 CFR 261.52(d).

Using an explosive (36 CFR 261.52(h)0.

Pursuant to 36 CFR 26.50(3) the following persons are exempt from this order:

-Persons with a permit specifically authorizing the otherwise prohibited act or omission.

-Owners or lessees of land in the area.

-Residents that require access through the Pike National Forest and BLM lands in the above listed counties.

-Any Federal, State, or local officer or member of an organized rescue or firefighting force in the performance of an official duty. Persons engaged in a permitted business, trade, or occupation that require access through the Pike National Forest and BLM lands in the above listed counties.

-Persons driving through these closed public lands on open State County highways.

This order is in effect beginning 12:00 AM, MDT, June 10, 2002, and until rescinded. - Derek Lawrence
Climber Dies at Red Rocks, Nevada Thu Jun 6 14:01:10 2002
Thursday, June 06, 2002
Copyright C Las Vegas Review-Journal

Legendary climber plummets to death at Red Rock

By J.M. KALIL
REVIEW-JOURNAL



Randal Grandstaff, a mountaineer who scaled peaks across the globe and
ran the Las Vegas Valley's oldest and most successful climbing school,
died Wednesday in an apparent accident at Red Rock Canyon National
Conservation Area. He was 44.

A legend in climbing circles, Grandstaff plummeted about 150 feet to his
death shortly after helping a tourist rappel down a rock face. Police
believe the fall was accidental, but the 12:40 p.m. incident remains
under investigation.

"At this point, we don't know what went wrong," said Sgt. Clint Bassett
of the Metropolitan Police Department's Search and Rescue unit. "There's
a dozen things that could've happened. There's equipment, human error,
and then there's rock, and it could be any combination of those
factors."

Police did not release the identity of the victim, but word of the Las
Vegas native's death spread quickly Wednesday among the valley's
tight-knit climbing community. Colleagues and an employee at Sky's the
Limit, Grandstaff's climbing school, confirmed the identity of the
victim.

"If you're a climber, Randal was the man," said Brandon Arens, a climber
who worked for Grandstaff. "He was extremely impressive. Anyone serious
about climbing Red Rock knows his name."

Fred Frazzetta, an employee at Desert Rock Sports, a climbing supply
store on West Charleston Boulevard, said Grandstaff was widely known by
climbers because he had recorded so many first ascents at Red Rock,
meaning he was the first person to perform a climb there.

"His name does appear in the Red Rock guidebook a lot," said Frazzetta,
who knew Grandstaff for 12 years. "This guy had a pretty big reputation,
and he had clients he guided from all over the world."

After he was introduced to climbing as a Boy Scout, Grandstaff began
logging serious time at Red Rock as an adolescent and continued
throughout his teen-age years.

The 1976 graduate of Bishop Gorman High School once got into trouble for
scaling the brick tower in front of the school. Described as colorful by
three people who knew him, Grandstaff also once gathered notoriety among
climbers for scaling the Flashlight sculpture on the campus of the
University of Nevada, Las Vegas.

After a short stint in college, he became a heavily experienced
mountaineer in both alpine and ice climbing.

He spent time on some of the most intimidating ridges on five
continents, including Mount Everest and other peaks in the Himalayas,
the snowy crests of the French Alps, and Alaska's Mount McKinley.

But it was the giant pile of sandstone west of Las Vegas that Grandstaff
spent most of his life mastering.

"When there were only like 10 people climbing out at Red Rock, he was
one of them," Frazzetta said.

Of the more than 1,500 rated climbs at Red Rock, Grandstaff could claim
first ascent on about 800.

He bought a home close to the climbing area and launched Sky's the Limit
in the mid-1980s. Colleagues said he enjoyed slowly building his
business into a success centered on his love for the sport.

On Wednesday, police said he was leading a female tourist on a climb
called the Great Red Book, a route up a rock face at the second turnoff
on Red Rock's scenic loop.

The pair finished the climb, and the woman rappelled down on ropes
first, Bassett said.

"She doesn't know what happened, because the next thing she knew, he
just fell from the top," said Bassett, the police sergeant. "He was
about to rappel, but just fell."

Police found the equipment the pair used to scale the rock at the bottom
of the climbing area near the man's body.
- Myke Komarnitsky
Alert: Car Break-in at Trailheads! Thu Jun 6 13:32:21 2002
Just saw your comment and thought I'd let ya know, I'm one of the park tech. and yesterday there were two break in's at eldo, they took the purse and cards and went straight to stores and ran up $1,000 in charges. The Rangers told me that theres two groups hitting cars on weekdays, one group is just doing smash and grabs and spending the money fast and SUPPOSEDLY they have "intelligence" that Russian mafia members out of Denver are jimmy'ing car locks and sending the loot straight to Vegas. just thought I'd say something so maybe someone can post a big notice to not leave valuables in vehicles, - Kent Perillo
System Updates Wed Jun 5 22:56:08 2002
Made a number of updates to the application tonight.... it'll be interesting to see how this works in the morning!


* Made it so the system understands just a single return to render properly. Before you had to hit return twice, and the system rendered it as a blank space. An example is Andy Donson's Running with the Bulls.
* Reindexed all names in the database to replace "The Checkboard Wall" with "Checkerboard Wall, The". Of course, the tricky part was to keep the url's the same. Almost blew that one, but I'm pretty sure that's going to work correctly. This is really nice for crags with lots of routes.
* Some integration and improvement of the partner-finder function.
* Integration and improvement of the photo upload function for people, partner, route images, beta images, etc...



Anyways, it'll be interesting to see what the site looks like tommorrow (to see if I missed anything huge). If you notice something, please let us know. - Myke Komarnitsky
Qualtiy Assurance on the Site Tue Jun 4 19:53:16 2002
We've got some pretty neat admin tools on the site, and one of them is a Quality Assurance tool, which we use to "check off" areas, rocks, and routes that we've checked for grammar and formatting (no editorializing, though).

Anyways, I was looking at this tonight, and a volunteer, Roger Wilkerson has gone through and QA'd almost 1000 of those items (979 right now), fixing typos or formatting errors...

Anyways, I just thought you should know why things look good on this site. Buy him a beer if you ever meet him. - Myke Komarnitsky
SE Climbers and Activism Thu May 30 21:34:26 2002
The subject of this message does not directly pertain to any local climbing issues, but it something that most climbers everywhere can appreciate. Earlier today (May 30), the Southeastern Climbers Coalition, an organization to which I belong, closed the contract on a 7.7 acre parcel of land commonly known as Boat Rock. Boat Rock is a bouldering area in Atlanta, Georgia. What is impressive about this action is that a smaller, regional climbing organization took action when access to this area was threatened. Instead of crying for someone else to do something, they took a bold step. Several members stepped up to the plate and donated money. This money, in addition to a grant from the Access Fund secured the down payment on this land.

I think that this purchase is noteworthy and should set precedent for other climbers to do the same. Climbing areas owned by climbers. What a concept.

Anyway, I would appreciate it if you would post this and the link to the SECC - www.seclimbers.org, where there is more info about Boat Rock. Of course, I would not be offended if you did not. They still could use more money for Boat Rock. Even if climbers here never plan to visit Boat Rock, its still nice to know that there is such a place. - Anonymous Coward
3000. Thu May 30 20:07:54 2002
West Ridge, submitted by George Bell, is the 3000th route in our database. Wow.

This is fun. Let's see where it goes. - Myke Komarnitsky
Press Release from Climbing Magazine Thu May 30 17:16:09 2002
Hey, Matt Samet got hired there - cool!

-------------------
FOR IMMEDIATE RELEASE

Contact: Jonathan Thesenga
Climbing Magazine
(970) 963-9449
jthesenga@climbing.com


CLIMBING MAGAZINE, THE WORLD'S LEADING CLIMBING TITLE, ANNOUNCES CHANGES

CARBONDALE, CO - Climbing magazine, the world's leading climbing magazine for the past 32 years, is proud to announce some key promotions and changes to its management team and staff.

Jonathan Thesenga has been promoted to the position of Editor, replacing former editor Michael Benge. Thesenga, a contributor to the magazine since 1996, says, "Climbing Magazine has always exemplified the spirit of the unique sport of climbing. We will continue to provide the same editorial integrity, but are pleased about the fresh, creative opportunities the staff changes have afforded us. We are looking ahead to a new era at Climbing Magazine that embraces the youth and energy of the sport as well as its rich history."

Other key editorial news includes the promotion of Matt Stanley to Senior Editor. Stanley's wealth of knowledge in the world of climbing and experience as an editor and writer with Climbing and Mountainzone.com make him a valuable player on the editorial team. Climbing is also proud to announce the hiring of Contributing Editor Matt Samet (a contributor since 1996) to the fulltime position of Associate Editor. Thesenga will soon name a new Photo Editor.

Samet brings to the magazine an extensive professional writing background and impressive climbing résumé. "As an active climber committed to the sport, I'm thrilled to join the staff of Climbing Magazine at such an exciting time," says Samet. Samet will continue his popular Climbing column, "The Sporting Life," in addition to rounding out the magazine's editorial breadth.

Climbing's award-winning art direction remains in the capable hands of art director John McMullen and associate art director Michael Freeman.

Julie Oldham, the magazine's Advertising Director, continues to direct the advertising sales efforts (despite having recently given birth to a beautiful little girl, Katherine Claire, just three weeks ago). Oldham has been with the magazine more than five years and has directed the magazine to double-digit advertising revenue growth every year over that period. Oldham will soon name a new Advertising Manager, while Tom Mercer continues to direct the classified sales efforts.

Scott Leonard continues to manage the single copy sales efforts to specialty retailers in the climbing market. Leonard, a six-year veteran, has helped grow Climbing's retail program into a model of efficiency and will continue to build new programs to help grow the title in concert with BJ Sbarra, the magazine's associate sales manager for single copy.

Climbing magazine is part of Primedia's Action Sports Group, the world's premium collection of action sports titles. Among its titles are other leading lifestyle sports magazines such as Canoe & Kayak, Surfer, Surfing, Snowboarder, Skateboarder, Surfing Girl, BodyBoarding, Bike and Powder.

For more information, please contact Jonathan Thesenga, 970-704-2608. - Myke Komarnitsky
Stolen CC's in Eldo - Update Wed May 29 14:37:06 2002
Got this email today...

"hey myke,

hope you're doing good and getting out a bunch.

this april i had 2 credit cards taken from my wallet out of my truck (unknown to me) and used in las vegas for $1000s. I didn't even know about it until my card company called to say there are these suspect purchases, etc. the boulder cops think it is a romanian/russian crime ring that targets cars parked at trail heads. i think it may hjave happened to me out at eldorado. they jimmied the door and took the cards and i didn't even notice. i have a friend who just had his truck broken into (they broke a window), his wallet was taken (nothing else) and immediately purchases were made in superior.

maybe put something on the website to inform eldo (and boulder canyon) climbers to not leave valuables in their cars..."

--------------

Followup: Got an email from someone else:

"Same thing happened a week or so ago to a friend of mine who's truck was parked at a TH near Morrison. Jimmied open a rear window and charged lots of stuff before my friend got home. Sounds like maybe there's a CC fraud ring operating locally."

So hide your wallet/purse if you leave it in the car... - Myke Komarnitsky
PSA: Protect Against Credit Card Fraud Tue May 28 18:38:25 2002
Some assholes took my Discover Card to Las Vegas last November and took a $1000 cash advance before I knew it was stolen, so this is a good thing to do. I've called these three agencies (takes about 10 minutes), and a side benefit is you get a lot less credit card offers in the mail...

---
(from another email)....

But here's what is perhaps most important: (I never ever thought to do this) Call the three national credit reporting organizations immediately to place a fraud alert on your name and SS#.

I had never heard of doing that until advised by a bank that called to tell me an application for credit was made over the Internet in my name. The alert means any company that checks your credit knows your information was stolen and they have to contact you by phone to authorize new credit. By the time I was advised to do this, almost 2 weeks after the theft, all the damage had been done.

There are records of all the credit checks initiated by the thieves' purchases, none of which I knew about before placing the alert. Since then, no additional damage has been done, and the thieves threw my wallet away this weekend (someone turned it in). It seems to have stopped them in their tracks.

The numbers are:
Equifax: 1-800-525-6285
Experian (formerly TRW): 1-888-397-3742
Trans Union: 1-800-680-7289


Social Security Administration (fraud line): 1-800-269-0271

- Myke Komarnitsky
Boulder Canyon Re-opened! Tue May 28 18:15:21 2002
From Sam Allen:

"I saw on www.fs.fed.us/arnf/districts/brd/rock-climbing/ that the park service has reopened all areas in Boulder Canyon, including Eagle Rock. Thought you would want to update the Closure page."

Changes have been made, will show up tommorrow. Now if only those raptors would roost at the Sport Pork... - Myke Komarnitsky
Y. Spur Accident - Cole Stanley Report Tue May 28 13:12:29 2002
First off, I would like to thank all involved in helping me and my partner on Sunday, the names I remember are Julie (need her contact info so I can get her a new shirt), Mike (British accent), another Mike, Jasmine, Dave, Gary, Craig L., Kevin and others I have forgotten, sorry but thank you. If you were there please me know as I would like to get your account of the incident and thank you personally.

They were able to re-attach the finger and I am hoping it takes, gave a 70-30 chance. Other than that and a bruised tailbone I am okay and very lucky. Had I not had my helmet on it would be much much worse.

My account.. pulled up on a solid jug and heard the horrifying sound of cracking sandstone, then I was upside-down swinging on a pendulum, that is all I remember of the actual fall. A heartfelt thanks again to all involved...

-Cole - Myke Komarnitsky
Almost 3000 routes! Tue May 28 12:28:47 2002
This site continues to amaze me - We're coming up on another milestone. I know of no other climbing database on the internet that has as much information as this one; additionally, I think the quality of our content is much higher than other resources. We have only you, our faithful users, to thank for that. Thank you.

By the way, the backup of climbingboulder.com (as well as moab, salt lake, and devils lake) is about 1.5 gigabytes. That's a lot of data. :-) - Myke Komarnitsky
Climber Hurt on Yellow Spur Tue May 28 12:11:47 2002
Yikes, be careful out there. From the Daily Camera (www.thedailycamera.com/news/local/27ldgt.html)...

Man severs finger in climb An experienced rock climber was injured Sunday morning while ascending the Yellow Spur route in Eldorado Canyon State Park.

Cole Stanley, 29, of Denver was starting the fourth pitch of the route when a rock he was gripping broke loose and partially amputated a finger on his left hand, said Dave Booton, emergency services coordinator for Boulder County.

Nearby hikers called 911 about 9:30 a.m., reporting what they thought to be a rock slide.

A total of 21 officials and volunteers from the Rocky Mountain Rescue Group, Eldorado Canyon State Park, Eldorado Springs Fire Department, Boulder County Sheriff's Office and Pridemark Paramedics responded. A Rescue Group volunteer said the climber was using rope gear.

Stanley, who was with three climbing partners, descended to meet emergency crews and was treated at Boulder Community Hospital.

-----------

And then a couple of comments that sound secondhand...

"Did you hear about the accident on the Yellow Spur....it was worse than the paper reported. Three of my friends were at teh scene....it was ugly. The guy fell far and hard. He did only lose a finger but it was not pretty."

"It happened on Sunday. It was in yesterdays paper but downplayed. He pulled a boulder the size of half a car. Julie was under him....he landed beside her. She was three pitches up....took off her shirt and lowered him three pitches to safety. The guy was following....his leader was left high. She saw her life flash during the fall. The boulder broke into many pieces. His finger was dangling.....by a bit of skin. " - Myke Komarnitsky
More Beta on R&I Buyout Thu May 23 18:00:24 2002
[This Article is from Specialty NEWS (SNEWS -- www.snewsnet.com), the insider trade newsletter for the outdoor and fitness industries]

Rock & Ice and Trail Runner Sold To Former Climbing Mag Publisher
May 17, 2002


As SNEWS forecast last week Duane Raleigh, former publisher of Climbing Magazine, and Quent Williams, former production manager of Climbing, have acquired Rock & Ice and Trail Runner magazines from North South Publications. Terms of the deal were not disclosed, but we did learn that Raleigh and Williams -- Big Stone Publishing Inc. -- are the sole investors. The deal was inked Wednesday evening, May 15 and, at that time, all 16 employees, including publisher Dougald MacDonald and Trail Runner editor Brian Metzler effectively became unemployed.

All day Thursday, May 16, Raleigh was in Boulder interviewing any now-former staff that wished to move to Carbondale, Col., the new home of both magazines. Raleigh also told SNEWS that he absolutely wanted to hang onto Metzler simply because of the great work he has done with Trail Runner and the possibilities that Raleigh sees for the magazine.

"We will be adding another full-time staff member for Trail Runner and see great potential for the title," Raleigh said. "The trail running market is much bigger than the climbing market without question."Metzler was very happy with the turn of events and told us he was working closely with Raleigh to lay the groundwork for his continued involvement and expansion of the magazine's influence.

MacDonald, on the other hand, is now out of a job. "I neither solicited nor endorsed this sale," MacDonald said in an email sent to friends and to SNEWS. I would have preferred to continue developing the business we started nearly five years ago. But I only own a fraction of North South Publications, parent of R&I and TR, and my partners were eager to find a buyer."

The new offices for Big Stone Publishing are in Carbondale, less than a few minutes walk from the Climbing Magazine publishing digs. Although it is unclear just how many former Boulder-based employees will be willing or able to make the move to Carbondale, Raleigh did tell us that ultimately they are planning to run with a staff of 20.

Some of those employees may also come from the ranks of current Climbing staff, since SNEWS has learned a number may have already approached Raleigh about jumping ship including Climbing's senior editor Alison Osius and editor Michael Benge. And just when you thought things couldn't get anymore exciting on the publishing front, brace yourself for the debut of the publication, "The Alpinist."

From what we've learned, it's a nod more toward the soul and editorial musings of the defunct Summit or, as we've been told, a "surfer's journal" for climbing. The magazine is being launched by former American Alpine Journal editor Christian Beckwith, backed by funding from Marc Ewing, a software bazillionaire who was a founder of Red Hat, the Linux open software company. - Myke Komarnitsky
New area Added Thu May 23 16:58:06 2002
A new area called Poudre Canyon was just approved, submitted by: - Holly Barnard
Why Climbing and Boulder Rock. Wed May 22 21:37:04 2002
Two emails came into my email box in the last couple of days, that I thought were kinda cool.

"OK. My wife and I quit our jobs. We sold our house, and now we're moving to a house in Boulder Canyon from the flatlands of Lincoln, NE in three days. I am going to be doing a ton of climbing..."

"I've been tooling around climbingboulder.com for a couple months, and I must say it's truly amazing. I graduated from CU in 2000 and I really wish it existed then. Your site is a great benefit the Boulder climbing community and the climbing community as a whole. In fact, it's so great that it has been a part of my decision to move back to Boulder (albeit a small part). Without getting into a long history, I'm in the bay area right now, and just getting back into climbing after about a 2 year hiatus. Yosemite is just too far: 7 hours round trip..."

I just thought it was kind of neat to see/hear people identifying a passion in their lives, and taking action to realize and live out those things they truly want to do in their life.

Ok, I'll admit, I started Tuesdays with Morrie yesterday. It's still kinda cool though... - Myke Komarnitsky
More Photo Album improvements Tue May 21 20:35:08 2002
More improvements - it's now set up so that you can specify the climber name - seems like it makes sense to have this.

Also, I made a feeble attempt at parsing all the comments from previous and filling in that info. I'm pretty sure it was a miserable failure. So please, if you see mistakes, Let us know. - Myke Komarnitsky
Care About Eldo? Tue May 21 19:46:23 2002
Then you should know what Action Committee for Eldorado is up to. Their web site just launched today, with a lot of information and archives of all the FHRC applications. You should definitely check it out and sign up for their email list. - Myke Komarnitsky
R&I sold to Climbing Tue May 21 11:59:07 2002
Yup, it happened. Nothing appears to be on the Climbing web site or the Rock & Ice, but you can check out the spray on rec.climbing.

Seems kinda stupid to have the two main US climbing magazines in a little mountain town in Colorado. They were already Colorado-centric enough, IMHO... - Myke Komarnitsky
Site Improvements Mon May 20 13:49:52 2002
Some admin work done that you may/may not notice - I redid the people pages to simplify the code and the look.... hopefully less confusing. Also made some structural changes that are way overdue - moving rocks to the right areas, et al...

oh yeah, and make the "bookmark this page" function. pretty cool, eh? - Myke Komarnitsky
Attention All 14ers Climbers Fri May 17 10:11:12 2002
Culebra Peak/Red Mountain is still surrounded by private land and closed. The east/Culebra Ranch side of the peak is watched closely. If your car is found parked(stashed)anywhere within a few miles of the ranch, the ranch employees will hunt you down. We climbed the peak two weeks ago. My wife and I, as well as another couple, were met by the ranch manager and county sheriff. We have the priviledge of attending court in Trinidad on trespassing charges. The ranch manager( who claims to be a climber/backcountry skier) says he wants to send out a strong message by punishing climbers, especially those from northern Colorado. He asks "If you bought a mountain for 21 million would you let anyone on it?". The Access Fund,who doesn't even want to deal with all of Culebra Ranches lawyers, says that to open this peak up will take a lot of people a lot of time.

- Ben Bruestle
New give/take User Interface Thu May 16 17:16:58 2002
After a bit of work and a probably not enough thinking, we revamped the way that people give and take from the pages in the database. The hope is to make it easier, cleaner, and more user-friendly to contribute - no more of that crap cluttering up the top of the route pages. You can see an example.... and then use the handy "suggest a correction" link to tell us what you think.

What a crappy day... but star wars was good. - Myke Komarnitsky
Hate Telemarketers? Wed May 8 18:39:23 2002
Then put your name on the "No Call" list for Colorado. Check it out at www.coloradonocall.com. It's super easy, just type in your phone number, and bye bye telemarketers.

A follow up email from a visitor:
Hey Myke! Whats up man, CB.com is looking better, and better every time I check in (often)! Go easy on them telemarketers out there though man...:) These people dont want to be "hated" by an entire population of climbers... I used to be a 'telephone marketing professional', sometimes you just have to pay the bills somehow... In fact, I still do similar work, except I deal strictly with banks, and institutional investors, and I dont do "cold calls" anymore. So, dont worry, I wont call you with a new long distance plan or something...:) I understand your point of view, but, I'd bet a lot of telemarketers check out your site inbetween their calls... Anyway, just thought Id put in my 2 cents. Keep up the great work, and thanks for this resource!

- Myke Komarnitsky
Pigeons = Winged Rats? Thu May 2 11:18:13 2002
Ah, another argument of nature vs. nuture. We all know the restrictions due to raptors to help save their population, and more or less respect those restrictions to help those birds. but what about pigeons? Tony Bubb makes a suggestion on what we should do to pigeons that take up residence on classic routes in his editorial/rant here. - Myke Komarnitsky
GPS Info Thu May 2 11:05:44 2002
I know people think this is lame, but one day, you'll thank me for doing this! Check out the entire list of gps waypoints. - Myke Komarnitsky
Lumpy/RMNP closure update Thu May 2 09:54:23 2002
From the Access Fund, and reflected in our closure section:

Update: As of 5/1/02 The following raptor closures have been extended through July 15th: Alligator Rock, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Checkerboard and Lightning Rock. Sheep Mountain closure has been extended through July 31st. Closures are lifted on Thunder Buttress, Twin Owls and Rock One. Fire restrictions are now in effect. No fires except in established frontcountry campground and picnic area fire grates, and no smoking except in developed areas cleared of all flammable material.

Early in the season temporary restrictions include general cliff areas preferred by raptors. Climbers should check notice boards on trailheads and parking lots for the latest details . Once nesting sites have been identified through early monitoring, restrictions only remain in place for cliffs where nest sites have been confirmed. Contact: RMNP Information Center, National Park Service Tel: 970-586-1206. - Myke Komarnitsky
Tommy Beth Kidnapping Interview Tonight Wed May 1 15:32:59 2002
Beth Rodden, Tommy Caldwell and Greg Child (co-author of book but not a member of the kidnapped party) will be interviewed this evening (May 1, 2002) at approximately 7:30 pm on Colorado Public Radio's “Colorado Matters”. They will discuss the kidnapping while climbing in Kyrgyzstan and the aftermath. “Colorado Matters” begins at 7 pm and the trio are scheduled to be on the third segment.

The show can be heard at 1340 AM (Denver), 1490 AM (Boulder) and elsewhere around Colorado (for reception see: cpr.org/coverage/index.htm ). - Myke Komarnitsky
New area Added Tue Apr 30 14:48:02 2002
A new area called Lost Creek Wilderness was just approved, submitted by: - Anonymous Coward
Flatirons Closure Change Wed Apr 24 14:06:17 2002
The ampitheatre, home of the best place to take a girl on a first climbing date, is now back open. The forth and fifth pinnacles by it, however, have been closed. see detailed info at Seasonal Area Closures. - Myke Komarnitsky
Closure Revision Mon Apr 22 07:35:16 2002
I can't believe that I spent five hours re-doing the closures yesterday.... but indeed I did. And the only big difference is the layout in the summary page... how about that? Well, when you got the bug of inspiration, you just have to go with it sometimes.... - Myke Komarnitsky
Good GPS Deal Sat Apr 20 12:15:31 2002
Think the GPS info on this site is pretty neat, but can't afford $300 for one? Well, our sponsor GPS World Supply, has a Garmin GPS 12 that's a fully functional GPS unit for $99, with no shipping!

Pretty good deal, you might want to check it out if you were looking to get a GPS unit. - Myke Komarnitsky
OSMP meeting last night Fri Apr 19 14:52:54 2002
After a round table discussion with the city on Wednesday and the public forum held last night at the Rock Club, we have some more specific information we can offer you. The Terrain Boulders and the Sacred Cliffs are to remain open for the time being. Under the new visitor plan being developed by the city (to be released sometime in May) these areas will be designated as "Recreation and Resource Monitor Overlays." This basically means that they are areas with low-moderate visitor use and high ecological value that will remain open to recreational uses such as bouldering but will be monitored for any increase or change in usage. According to Matt Jones of Open Space and Mountain Parks, other non-specified areas in the Boulder mountains may be designated as "Special Protection Overlays" under the new visitor plan, meaning that they are closed to any human traffic off of designated trails. While the city itself is still debating this concept and where it might be applied, Matt Jones did say that the east side of the Boulder mountains is more likely to be designated for recreational usage and that the west side is more likely to host these Special Protection Overlays. Their argument: biofragmentation, the concept that trail usage (designated and social) interrupts wildlife habitat and upsets the ecosystem. What does all this mean? It means we get to keep bouldering at the Terrains and Sacreds but that we need, as a group, to really be conscious of our impacts if we want these areas to remain open. We and the city are suggesting that anyone approaching the Terrain Boulders now do so via The Slab, avoiding the social trail that comes in from the Mesa Trail to the East. (The new beta: follow N. Shanahan Ridge Trail to the base of The Slab at the mouth of Fern Canyon. Head left (south) on a faint track along the base of The Slab, then once in the forested area (lots of deadfall) head south and slightly east to reach the boulders.) Also, be familiar with OSMP rules and regulations -- no terracing, brush removal, lichen brushing, tree-cutting, etc -- and be sparing with the chalk and avoid tick marks. We are looking to organize a chalk clean-up at the Satellite Boulders sometime soon, as they seem to be neon white in places. After some thought, we've decided that it is best to wait until the public comment period for the visitor plan to begin any sort of letter-writing campaign. This period will be the 60-90 days (perhaps longer) after the plan is released, sometime this May. Once the plan is out we'll do our best to condense it down and give you the salient points. Thanks to all of you that have joined the list and to everyone who showed up last night! - Matt Samet
Accident / Gear Left on Practice Wall Fri Apr 19 14:00:00 2002
I don't know if this is something you can post somewhere on your website, but I understand if you don't want the clutter.

I fell on the 1st pitch of Practice Wall Thursday afternoon and broke my ankle. We had to leave 2 draws and 2 stoppers. All of the gear is below the crux and is easily retrievable. If anybody happens on the gear I would appreciate its return.

--Gary
303-544-7891

P.S. I fell exiting the pitch - just slipped off after doing the crux. However, 3 pieces pulled on my way down - something that has never happened to me in my 12 years of climbing. And yes, I was wearing a helmet. - Myke Komarnitsky
New area Added Thu Apr 18 12:49:28 2002
A new area called Lost Creek Wilderness was just approved, submitted by: - Hill
Looking for a Climbing Job? Tue Apr 16 21:42:33 2002
Wilderness Exchange Unlimited is now hiring part time and full time sales staff. Ideal applicant will have extensive climbing and outdoor experience -retail experience and personality quarks a plus. If you think you would enjoy working in a fast- paced and fun climbing shop that specializes in discount gear and the highest standards of customer service, call Don or Steve at (303) 964-0708 for details. - Myke Komarnitsky
New area Added Mon Apr 15 19:58:17 2002
A new area called 420s, Poudre Canyon was just approved, submitted by: - Anonymous Coward
Lost Gear in Clear Creek Sat Apr 13 21:45:35 2002
We were climbing at the 'Highwire Crag / River Wall' area in Clear Creek on Saturday April 13th. We parked at the pullout on the right hand side (going up the canyon) just before the second tunnel and accidently left our packs by the side of the car and drove away. They are two Arc'Teryx packs,one red bora and one blue sebring. Both are full of gear. If you have any information about these packs please contact Jeff at (303) 221-0701 or jeffereylockyer@hotmail.com There will be a reward offered to anyone who will return the gear. PLEASE contact me as soon as possible. - Myke Komarnitsky
Conference on World Affairs! Tue Apr 9 22:07:51 2002
This week, the Conference on World Affairs is taking place at CU campus. Basically it's a week of interesting, funny, boring, inciting, insightful, and eye-opening conferences. Topics range from "An Eye for an Eye: Israel and Palestine" to panel discussions including Danni Ashe, CEO of Danni's Hard Drive (oh yeah).

Check out the website, and go and check out at least ONE conference. There is a world outside of climbing, you know.... - Myke Komarnitsky
New Feature - "Features" get it??? Tue Apr 9 20:06:59 2002
ok, maybe that was a dumb title. Given the outbreak of pro and anti-dog forces filling up The Naked Edge, we've decided to accelerate and make public a new function we've been working on; a general features section. Expandable, community-oriented, and just generally a place for people to spray to their heart's content - just what this site needed, right? Anyways, check it out and let us know what you think, wouldja? - Myke Komarnitsky
Eldo Tower Goes Down Tue Apr 9 19:28:04 2002
Score one for the Good Guys, and for sticking to The Man. The Daily Camera is reporting that the Eldorado Tower Proposal was denied. Yeehaw! - Myke Komarnitsky
Big Update on Partner-Finder Mon Apr 8 13:48:19 2002
You have no idea how much time it took to do this one.... we knew that our partner-finder application was technically functional, but seriously blew. For some reason I got a burr in my saddle, and spent way too much time on it. Now it's about 10x better, functionality-wise. Hey, there's even a find-a-partner-wizard! Check it out! As always, if you see something screwed up, let us know. - Myke Komarnitsky
Problems = Yes Sun Apr 7 15:52:01 2002
Whoops. Damn daylight savings (that's what I'll blame it on. It's being fixed, it'll be all aok in about an hour... - Myke Komarnitsky
Site tools update (problems?) Sat Apr 6 21:28:57 2002
Did a bunch of cleanup on the code.... and it looks like everything is working.... however, if you see something that looks amiss, drop us a line and let us know. - Myke Komarnitsky
New area Added Sat Apr 6 21:13:02 2002
A new area called Golden Gate Canyon SP was just approved, submitted by: - Myke Komarnitsky
New rock Added Sat Apr 6 18:09:08 2002
A new rock in Lumpy Ridge was just approved. It's Checkerboard Rock, submitted by: - Brian Milhaupt
New rock Added Fri Apr 5 22:31:46 2002
A new rock in South Platte was just approved. It's Java Dome/Atlantis Dome/Bali Dome, submitted by: - Leo Paik
New rock Added Fri Apr 5 17:47:03 2002
A new rock in Golden Gate Canyon SP was just approved. It's Lazy Squaw Spire, submitted by: - Leo Paik
New rock Added Fri Apr 5 10:09:54 2002
A new rock in Pinecliffe was just approved. It's main Pinecliffe crag, submitted by: - Leo Paik
New rock Added Fri Apr 5 09:59:21 2002
A new rock in Golden Gate Canyon SP was just approved. It's Mt Thoridin, submitted by: - Leo Paik
New rock Added Fri Apr 5 09:59:14 2002
A new rock in Golden Gate Canyon SP was just approved. It's Mt Thoridin, submitted by: - Leo Paik
New rock Added Fri Apr 5 09:58:37 2002
A new rock in Golden Gate Canyon SP was just approved. It's Mt Thoridin, submitted by: - Leo Paik
New rock Added Fri Apr 5 00:15:41 2002
A new rock in Lumpy Ridge was just approved. It's Mt Olympus, submitted by: - Leo Paik
New rock Added Thu Apr 4 23:57:32 2002
A new rock in Flatirons North was just approved. It's Woods Quarry, submitted by: - Leo Paik
New rock Added Thu Apr 4 23:14:06 2002
A new rock in Flatirons North was just approved. It's Sunset Flatironette, submitted by: - Leo Paik
New area Added Thu Apr 4 23:04:48 2002
A new area called Golden Gate Canyon SP was just approved, submitted by: - Leo Paik
New area Added Thu Apr 4 23:04:30 2002
A new area called Pinecliffe was just approved, submitted by: - Leo Paik
New rock Added Thu Apr 4 21:58:30 2002
A new rock in Flatirons North was just approved. It's Sunset Flatironette, submitted by: - Warren Teissier
Current Issues Page Wed Apr 3 09:33:09 2002
I just made a page that will cover all current issues. Please read these and help with the efforts to preserve access to our wonderful climbing areas.

Thanks. - Ben Mottinger
New rock Added Tue Apr 2 17:31:23 2002
A new rock in Flatirons Central was just approved. It's Royal Arch, submitted by: - Warren Teissier
New rock Added Tue Apr 2 17:31:14 2002
A new rock in Flatirons Central was just approved. It's The Regency, submitted by: - Warren Teissier
New Sponsor Tue Apr 2 11:43:42 2002
You know them, you buy there, you've seen their shows... Mountain Sports, aka MoSpo, has decided to support this site! We've very excited to have them join the team. We'll be keeping everyone appraised of any cool shows or events. Thanks for the support guys! - Myke Komarnitsky
Site of the Week! (take 2) Mon Apr 1 15:58:04 2002
ClimberOnline.com awarded us the Site of the Week award for this week, for the second time. Actually, we're the first site that they've awarded it to *twice*. Are we the shit or what?

- Myke Komarnitsky
New rock Added Mon Apr 1 15:51:25 2002
A new rock in Flatirons South was just approved. It's Angel Wings, submitted by: - Leo Paik
New rock Added Mon Apr 1 15:51:10 2002
A new rock in Flatirons North was just approved. It's The Thing, submitted by: - Leo Paik
New rock Added Mon Apr 1 15:47:30 2002
A new rock in Castlewood Canyon was just approved. It's Coat of Arms Corner and The Rat Cracks, submitted by: - Dan Mottinger
New area Added Mon Apr 1 15:47:17 2002
A new area called Ocelet was just approved, submitted by: - Chris Chlebowski
Photo Album is now officially Badass Sat Mar 30 15:08:06 2002
After many a justified complaint, we finally got some inspiration and redid the photo album... and we think it looks awesome. Check it Out, or see how we've integrated it with the database, say for Angry Man... this is really damn cool. - Myke Komarnitsky
Do You love the Flatirons? Fri Mar 29 11:35:11 2002
Do You Love Bouldering or Roaming in the Flatirons?

As climbers, boulderers and people who love the Boulder Mountains, we are reaching a critical juncture in the way we use and enjoy our splendid backdrop. Your freedom to visit such off-trail areas as the Terrain Boulders, the Physical Boulders and the Sacred Cliffs may soon be curtailed. Sound scary? Now is the time to get involved and let our land managers know how we feel about these changes.

What's Going On

Concerned with impact reduction, Open Space Mountain Parks (OSMP), the land management agency responsible for the Boulder Mountains, is currently studying various areas in the Flatirons to determine whether or not these areas should become Special Protection Areas. These areas could represent an expansion of existing seasonal closures but might become permanent closures as well (so-called "No Human Zones," where not even hiking is permitted).

Areas potentially affected include the Sacred Cliffs south to Bear Canyon, the Terrain Boulders, the PB Boulders, the Physical Boulders and the Nightmare Block, as well as crags high on the west side of South Boulder Peak (The Veil, etc.). As an alternative to off-trail bouldering the City has suggested that we limit our activity to Mt. Sanitas, Flagstaff Mountain, the Amphitheater and the Satellite Boulders (reference: www.ci.boulder.co.us/openspace/visitor/climbing/bouldering.h>>>. We see this an as unacceptable option, one that deprives us of the freedom to enjoy a significant portion of our tax-payer funded public land and one that focuses impact on a handful of already over-used areas.

A core group of climbers has been working with the city on these issues and includes the Access Fund, the Flatirons Climbing Coalition, the Spot and Frontrangebouldering.com. This group has been meeting with the city for educational and communication purposes and has been instrumental in having climbing and bouldering recognized as valid recreational activities.

Nevertheless, the wheels are turning and more of us need to get involved: The city has set an evaluation date for early this summer and the policy they enact may well set a precedent for other land managers across the country. It is time for everyone who cares about bouldering and hiking in the Flatirons to make their voice heard. If we don't all express our dissatisfaction with these policies then we could permanently lose some of the Front Range's best bouldering.

What You Can Do

Stay informed: E-mail us at flatironsbouldering@yahoo.com and we'll add you to our e-mail list, which we'll use to keep you all informed.

* Be prepared to help out: The land managers orchestrating much of this process are appointed by the City Council. Thusly, we should be ready to put pressure (letters, phone calls, attending OSMP meetings) directly on the Council pending any action by OSMP. The more of us they hear from the better.
* Know the rules: Don't jeopardize access by violating the current climbing and closure rules. It is illegal to build trails, groom landings, remove vegetation (including lichen), bolt, glue, terrace or litter. A full list of these rules can be obtained at www.ci.boulder.co.us/openspace/visitor/climbing/climb_rules.>>>. Be polite to other park users, keep a low profile and consider leaving your dog at home to reduce impact.
* Tell your friends: The city charter under which OSMP operates requires that the parks be maintained for resource protection and recreational use. It is not an either/or situation, and climbers aren't the only user group affected by these potential closures. Anyone such as hikers and bird watchers who enjoys off-trail exploration stands to lose as well. Tell as many of your friends as possible and get them to sign up for our e-mail list.
* Join the Access Fund: You can sign up at www.accessfund.org. Let them know why you are joining and be specific about the situation in the Flatirons.



The Future

The Flatirons have a long and rich climbing history and are internationally known for their beauty and quality of climbing. Bouldering is as much a part of that history as roped climbing and it would be an incredible blow to Colorado's climbing community were we to lose these areas. Get involved NOW and help us keep that history alive!

Please respond to flatironsbouldering@yahoo.com and not my e-mail address. No message is necessary, we just want your e-mail address for starters.

Thanks
Brought to you by the Flatirons Action Network. - Matt Samet
New rock Added Thu Mar 28 09:48:58 2002
A new rock in Flatirons Central was just approved. It's Fee, submitted by: - Leo Paik
New rock Added Thu Mar 28 09:48:24 2002
A new rock in Flatirons Central was just approved. It's Northern Dinosaur Egg, submitted by: - Leo Paik
More Closures - RMNP/Lumpy Mon Mar 25 22:57:28 2002
March 25, 2002 For Immediate Release Kyle Patterson 970-586-1363

Temporary Closures to Protect Nesting Raptors in Rocky Mountain National Park

To protect raptor nesting sites, Rocky Mountain National Park Acting Superintendent Tony Schetzsle has announced temporary closures in the Lumpy Ridge and Sheep Mountain areas of the park. To enable wildlife managers to gather information and ensure that raptors can nest undisturbed, specific areas within the park are closed temporarily to public use during nesting season. All closures went in to effect on March 22 and will continue through April 30. These closures may be rescinded at an earlier date or extended longer if determined necessary.

Closures include: Alligator Rock, Lightning Rock, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Checkerboard, Sheep Mountain, Thunder Buttress, Rock One and Twin Owls. These closures include the named formations as well as areas extending 100 yards in all directions from these formations. The perimeter around Alligator Rock extends for 200 yards in all directions. Closures include all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes and climber access trails to the named rock formations. The National Park Service is committed to preserving birds of prey. The same cliffs that attract raptors also appeal to climbers. The cooperation of climbing organizations and individuals is essential to the successful nesting of raptors in the park. - Myke Komarnitsky
Proofing this site Mon Mar 25 20:01:29 2002
About a million years ago, Roger Wilkerson mentioned that he was trying to spell-check and clean up all the routes. Crazy he may be, but he is still at working moving through the database! Anyways, if you see errors in the site, grammatical or formatting wise, help us out by dropping him an email at cb_qa@attbi.com and letting him know exactly what page the error is on and what it is. Or, you can just use the "suggest a correction" link at the top of any page.

Oh yeah, and he's not changing any text/comments to make people look better/dumber. It's strictly grammar/formatting type of changes... - Myke Komarnitsky
New rock Added Mon Mar 25 19:52:19 2002
A new rock in Hardscrabble Pass was just approved. It's Tanner Rock, submitted by: - Bob Robertson
New rock Added Mon Mar 25 16:06:15 2002
A new rock in Table Mountain aka Golden Cliffs was just approved. It's Hot Spot Area, submitted by: - David Houston
Query Function Fixed Sun Mar 24 16:18:23 2002
A couple of small glitches in the query function (listing all the areas for every sister site, and an error when no routes are returned), so it should be working a little better... - Myke Komarnitsky
Neat Site Sun Mar 24 16:18:23 2002
I just ran across camp4.com today after not looking at it for a few months.... looks like they did a major overhaul and have a crapload of content in my 5 minute perusal. You might check them out.... I think the guys running it are based out of Arvada.... - Myke Komarnitsky
Rocks re-opened in Boulder Canyon Sat Mar 23 19:38:34 2002
The Forest Service has reopened climbing areas in Boulder Canyon, recently closed to protect birds of prey during their nesting season. The areas commonly known as “Blob Rock,” “Bitty Buttress,” and the “Security Risk Area” are now open to climbing and other activities. These areas are located along the north side of State Highway 119 and within approximately one and one-half miles east of Boulder Falls. The area known as “Eagle Rock” remains closed to climbing and other activities and is expected to remain closed through July 31, 2002. Opened rocks also include Happy Hour and the Bihedral

For the most current closure information, check signs in the areas, or visit the Boulder Ranger District web site at www.fs.fed.us/arnf/districts/brd/index.htm. - Myke Komarnitsky
New rock Added Sat Mar 23 18:39:39 2002
A new rock in Boulder Canyon was just approved. It's The Arena, aka Contender Wall, submitted by: - Kreighton Bieger
New rock Added Sat Mar 23 18:39:04 2002
A new rock in Boulder Canyon was just approved. It's Lower Boulder Falls Area, submitted by: - Bob D'Antonio
New area Added Wed Mar 20 22:55:30 2002
A new area called Gilman Canyon was just approved, submitted by: - Bob D'Antonio
New rock Added Wed Mar 20 13:09:04 2002
A new rock in Gilman Canyon was just approved. It's Gilman Canyon Crags, submitted by: - David Houston
2600 Routes Wed Mar 20 08:49:25 2002
Apart from being a dial tone, we've hit 2600 routes with Coors Roof, submitted by Paco. - Myke Komarnitsky
Closure Information Updated Tue Mar 19 17:20:03 2002
Closure Information for all areas that we've heard of have been posted and updated. However, the neater thing is that this information is then integrated into the database, so that yoekels from out of state can't claim ignorance when they tromp up the Third Flatiron.

Did we miss any? Let Us Know. - Myke Komarnitsky
New icerock Added Sun Mar 17 22:08:45 2002
A new rock in Castlewood Canyon was just approved. It's The Cascade, submitted by: - Dan Mottinger
New icerock Added Sun Mar 17 16:21:30 2002
A new rock in I-70 Corridor was just approved. It's Vail, Racquet Club Area, submitted by: - Andrew Klein
New icerock Added Thu Mar 14 17:56:31 2002
A new rock in I-70 Corridor was just approved. It's Georgetown Flows, submitted by: - Leo Paik
New rock Added Thu Mar 14 17:22:23 2002
A new rock in Lumpy Ridge was just approved. It's Eagle Rock, submitted by: - Leo Paik
New rock Added Wed Mar 13 13:21:46 2002
A new rock in Independence Pass was just approved. It's Jaws Boulder, submitted by: - Chris Dawson
Sky Light Area is Closed Tue Mar 12 17:10:33 2002
After being contacted by the land owner of the Sky Light area on the Campbird Mine road in Ouray we want to remind the community of the harm that trespassing has on the climbing communities relationship with land owners. Please respect the Posted: No Trespassing signs on private property. Rather than poach a climb, contact the access fund (www.accessfund.org/) and solve the problem in a way that the climbing community, the law and the land owners can be happy with. By trespassing we only endanger the future of such a great area. - Michael Sharp
Welcome Michael Sharp Tue Mar 12 17:08:24 2002
Welcome to Michael Sharp, a long time Colorado Climber and resident, Michael has agreed to take over the administration of the photos and comments. So when you submit a photo he's the one to make sure it gets attached to right climb and area. - Michael Sharp
New rock Added Tue Mar 12 10:52:00 2002
A new rock in Colorado N. Monument was just approved. It's Other areas, submitted by: - Leo Paik
New rock Added Mon Mar 11 12:32:14 2002
A new rock in Eldorado Canyon was just approved. It's Diamond Head, submitted by: - Tony Bubb
New rock Added Sun Mar 10 12:34:03 2002
A new rock in South Platte was just approved. It's Sheep's Nose, submitted by: - Bryson Slothower
New rock Added Sun Mar 10 12:28:23 2002
A new rock in South Platte - Buffalo Creek Area was just approved. It's Humphrey's Dome, submitted by: - Bryson Slothower
New rock Added Sun Mar 3 11:14:38 2002
A new rock in Hardscrabble Pass was just approved. It's Titanic, submitted by: - Bob Robertson
New area Added Sat Mar 2 17:38:21 2002
A new area called Hardscrabble Pass was just approved, submitted by: - Julian Smith
New Sponsor Wed Feb 27 19:36:07 2002
Wilderness Exchange Unlimited has joined us as our newest sponsor. Situated down in Denver near REI, they have a cozy store packed with great deals - 20%-60% off every day on most items (that's not a typo). If you're down in the area, you should definitely check 'em out! - Myke Komarnitsky
New area Added Wed Feb 27 15:08:30 2002
A new area called Big Thompson Canyon was just approved, submitted by: - Leo Paik
New area Added Mon Feb 25 18:15:18 2002
A new area called Mount Sanitas was just approved, submitted by: - Jay Sloane
New rock Added Mon Feb 25 11:25:07 2002
A new rock in Eldorado Canyon was just approved. It's Sobo, submitted by: - Tony Bubb
New rock Added Sun Feb 24 18:50:58 2002
A new rock in Lumpy Ridge was just approved. It's The Citadel, submitted by: - jason seaver
New rock Added Sun Feb 24 15:49:44 2002
A new rock in Flatirons Central was just approved. It's Babyhorn, submitted by: - Leo Paik
New rock Added Sat Feb 23 09:54:04 2002
A new rock in Morrison was just approved. It's Cave Area, submitted by: - Chris Carr
Sister Site - Devils Lake, Wisconsin Fri Feb 22 16:39:16 2002
We've got a new sister site, out in the middle of the great flatlands, called ClimbingDevilsLake.com! Tom Andersen-Brown is running with this project, and he's already done a lot of work setting up the fundamentals of the site. If you've climbed there, if you know people who've climbed there, or if you're just bored at work, head over there and check it out! - Myke Komarnitsky
New area Added Thu Feb 21 10:10:21 2002
A new area called Mt Evans was just approved, submitted by: - Leo Paik
New rock Added Thu Feb 21 09:21:28 2002
A new rock in Mt Evans was just approved. It's The aprons, submitted by: - Leo Paik
New rock Added Wed Feb 20 08:12:41 2002
A new rock in Mt Evans was just approved. It's The Black Wall, submitted by: - Julian Smith
New rock Added Tue Feb 19 22:56:04 2002
A new rock in Morrison was just approved. It's The Dark Side, submitted by: - Leo Paik
New area Added Tue Feb 19 22:38:45 2002
A new area called Mt Evans was just approved, submitted by: - Leo Paik
New rock Added Tue Feb 19 22:37:45 2002
A new rock in Castlewood Canyon was just approved. It's Five and Dime Wall, submitted by: - Aaron Shupp
New rock Added Mon Feb 18 18:35:10 2002
A new rock in Miscellaneous Crags was just approved. It's Jug Dome, submitted by: - Old Fart aka Dave Bohn
New rock Added Fri Feb 15 07:40:37 2002
A new rock in Eldorado Canyon was just approved. It's The Veil, submitted by: - Tony Bubb
Need Some Help (aka Thanks Darrin Stein) Wed Feb 13 13:11:47 2002
Darrin Stein has helped out a ton the last couple of months on the site, making corrections, managing photos, and generally working to make the quality of content high. Work unfortunately is picking up for him, so he's going to be unable to continue.

So, we need someone to help us manage the day-to-day stuff on the site. We're talking 5-10 minutes a day, maybe more, maybe less. See your name in lights, earn the admiration of your friends, dare to wield the power that is climbingboulder.com, yaddi yaddi yadda.... Let us Know if you're our man (or woman).

And a big thanks to Darrin, for contributing his time and effort to making this site such a kick-ass destination on the web. - Myke Komarnitsky
What the Hell is Going On? Wed Feb 13 13:11:47 2002
In the past couple of months, I've been incredibly busy with work and other projects (well, having some fun here and there too). I keep thinking about all the projects/things/ideas with the site that are half done:

tshirts
closure info integration
making the photo album not suck
getting rid of the Anonymous Coward account via cookies
clean up the ice climbing beta stuff
get that beer sponsorship for the site

After the next 2-3 weeks, I hope to have a bit more freedom to push these projects along and out the door. Just wanted all to know that we're still hard at work to make this site rock. thanks for making us the best climbing site on the Internet.

- Myke Komarnitsky
New icerock Added Wed Feb 13 11:26:07 2002
A new rock in Ouray was just approved. It's Highway 550, submitted by: - Leo Paik
Nepalese Porter Fundraiser Wed Feb 13 10:14:19 2002
"Carrying the Burden" is a Banff documentary about the hardships that porters must face. A fundraiser has been started to help the effort by Mountain Sports. Read more about it in the press release. Also visit Hec.org to learn more about the organization. - Ben Mottinger
New rock Added Wed Feb 13 08:24:30 2002
A new rock in Clear Creek Canyon was just approved. It's Lookout Mountain Crag, submitted by: - Darrin Stein
New icearea Added Tue Feb 12 08:57:59 2002
A new area called Castlewood Canyon was just approved, submitted by: - Julian Smith
New rock Added Mon Feb 11 22:16:31 2002
A new rock in Miscellaneous Crags was just approved. It's cottontail crag, submitted by: - justin dubois
New icerock Added Mon Feb 11 08:43:08 2002
A new rock in Silverton was just approved. It's Eureka, submitted by: - Leo Paik
New rock Added Mon Feb 11 08:28:29 2002
A new rock in Flatirons Central was just approved. It's Dinosaur Rock, submitted by: - Guy Humphrey
New rock Added Sat Feb 9 11:17:21 2002
A new rock in Unaweep Canyon was just approved. It's Mothers Buttress, submitted by: - Bryson Slothower
Memorial Service Thu Feb 7 17:13:01 2002
A memorial service honoring the life of Mike Sofranko will be held Friday, 2/15/02 in the Columbine Room of the Lincoln Center in Olde Town Fort Collins, CO from 7-9pm. The address is 417 W. Magnolia. All are welcome and encouraged to attend.

The "Michael Sofranko Memorial Fund" has been set up with First National Bank of Fort Collins. Funds donated will be used to support the Access Fund (specifically to support Castle Valley and the Fisher Towers near Moab, UT) and to the American Alpine Club. You can donate at any 1st National Bank of Fort Collins Branch by indicating to the teller that your deposit is for this fund, or by mailing your donation to:

1st National Bank
P.O. Box 578
Fort Collins, CO 80522
ATTN: Customer Service/Michael Sofranko Memorial Fund.


Mike was an avid and talented rock climber and mountaineer. Some of his favorite destinations included Castle Valley and the Fisher Towers, Long's Peak and the Estes Park area, and the Flatirons in Boulder. His interests included photography, mountaineering history and natural history. Mike's sense of humor and sincere care for people will be missed by many friends and climbing partners.

View Mike's Climbing Page at:
www.geocities.com/misofranko/index.html - Myke Komarnitsky
New rock Added Thu Feb 7 11:27:10 2002
A new rock in Flatirons North was just approved. It's Green Thumb, submitted by: - George Bell
More Info on Mike Sofranko Wed Feb 6 06:41:32 2002
There's some information and thoughts about Mike Sofranko at rec.climbing. Also, a link to Happy Hour Crag.... though I haven't heard yet which route they were on/rappelling... - Myke Komarnitsky
Update on Climber Accident Mon Feb 4 13:45:02 2002
The climber turned out to be Mike Sofranko of Fort Collins. We didn't know Mike personally, but had exchanged numerous emails with him about cb.com and climbing in general. Note the link above goes to his page on the site. Our deepest condolences go out to his family and friends.

Myke - Myke Komarnitsky
Climber Dies at Happy Hour Crag Mon Feb 4 12:45:23 2002
Monday, February 04, 2002
Fall kills climber in Boulder Canyon
A 28-year-old Fort Collins-area man fell 100 feet to his death Sunday afternoon while climbing the Happy Hour Crag in Boulder Canyon, the Boulder County Sheriff's Office reported. The victim's name wasn't released pending notification of his family. The man was described as an experienced climber, and he was using ropes and harnesses, but wasn't wearing a safety helmet, Deputy Samuel Hard said.

Ah, hell. :-( Please be careful out there... - Myke Komarnitsky
Need a route added... Fri Feb 1 12:20:33 2002
Can someone add The Red Wall to Chasm View Wall? The original submitter asked that it be deleted, but we need it again.

Thanks. - Ben Mottinger
New icerock Added Fri Feb 1 11:46:59 2002
A new rock in Wolf Creek Pass/San Luis Valley was just approved. It's Creede, submitted by: - Anonymous Coward
New Links Thu Jan 31 08:19:06 2002
If you sent a suggested link to us in the past, look on the links page for all the new ones. If you would like to submit a link, contact us. - Ben Mottinger
New rock Added Mon Jan 28 22:42:36 2002
A new rock in The Monastery was just approved. It's Outer Gates, submitted by: - Jesse Ryan
New rock Added Mon Jan 28 14:43:52 2002
A new rock in RMNP/Alpine was just approved. It's Ypsilon Mtn, submitted by: - paco
New icerock Added Sat Jan 26 20:36:48 2002
A new rock in Ouray was just approved. It's Uncompahgre Gorge, submitted by: - Charlie Nuttelman
New icerock Added Sat Jan 26 20:36:38 2002
A new rock in Ouray was just approved. It's Dexter Creek Slabs, submitted by: - Charlie Nuttelman
New icerock Added Sat Jan 26 20:35:30 2002
A new rock in Telluride was just approved. It's Cornet Falls Area, submitted by: - Charlie Nuttelman
New icerock Added Fri Jan 25 19:36:40 2002
A new rock in Castlewood Canyon was just approved. It's Cherry Creek Falls, submitted by: - Ben Mottinger
New rock Added Thu Jan 24 23:08:03 2002
A new rock in RMNP/Alpine was just approved. It's The Foil, submitted by: - paco
2 year Anniversary Tue Jan 22 11:28:55 2002
It's been two years since we were searching around on the west ridge looking for positively 4th street, and came upon the infinitely nerdy idea of starting a climbing web site so we could figure out where to go climbing.

Thank you, all of you, for making this the best climbing site on the Internet. It's been a lot of fun; we've met nice people, gotten free schwag, and have successfully written kegs off as a "business expense".

We'll see where the next two years takes us, eh? - Myke Komarnitsky
Ad Logging Tue Jan 22 11:27:25 2002
That 16 oz. of Delicious Caffe Sole coffee really got us moving on the site again, eh?

All blatant selling out aside, observant visitors may have noticed a different link when clicking on one of the ads on the site. After some analysis, we've been really surprised at how frequently people are doing this. How sweet is that?!?! Don't worry, we're not violating your privacy or start spamming you or anything like that. This just helps us show to people like Neptune and Trango, etc... that supporting this web site IS worth their time and money.

We'll see what we can do to share the information with all you curious folk out there... still working on the report generation - gotta make it all just right for the marketing people who are going to read this stuff in the end. - Myke Komarnitsky
QA Work & Updates Mon Jan 21 11:48:10 2002
A quick FYI: I'm doing QA work on the site - primarily to fix typos, but also to correct any grammar / spelling errors that I notice. A bit of formatting (on longer descriptions) for readability. Most changes are very minor - hopefully I'm not PO'ing the original contributors.

As usual, if you notice something needing corrections submit it to Myke / Ben & they'll get it to me.

Thanks, Roger - Roger Wilkerson
Ouray Ice Fest - This weekend Thu Jan 17 15:27:03 2002
Not like you didn't know already... but it promises to be a great time. hope to see some of you down there! - Myke Komarnitsky
New icerock Added Wed Jan 16 22:59:18 2002
A new rock in Wolf Creek Pass/San Louis Valley was just approved. It's Chain Station, submitted by: - Ben Bruestle
New icerock Added Wed Jan 16 22:59:04 2002
A new rock in Wolf Creek Pass/San Louis Valley was just approved. It's Wolf Creek Pass- West Side, submitted by: - Ben Bruestle
Duh, here's the link Tue Jan 15 20:46:55 2002
Amid all that spray, I forgot to say that you can check it out via any web-enabled device (cell phone, palm, IE 6.0) at Wireless.climbingboulder.com. - Myke Komarnitsky
Wireless is again up Tue Jan 15 20:41:28 2002
Climbingboulder.com available via a web-enabled Palm Pilot or Cell Phone? Talk about stupid, right?

Wrong. This is Cool. You won't find us hanging off a finger lock to look up beta on the web site. However, imagine barely staying awake through some 3 hour meeting about strategic business crap. What comes to the rescue but reading the beta for The Casual Route, or checking out the latest ice conditions in The Park. Who said technology can't make the world a better place?

It's not exactly earth-shaking... but it's something that few web sites out there are doing.... and we can guarantee that no other climbing site on the planet is doing something like this. Just another reason why we're the best damn climbing web site around. - Myke Komarnitsky
Logo Contest Winners Tue Jan 15 12:36:02 2002
And I bet you thought this contest would drag on another 4 months...Well, we finally got our asses in gear and selected a winner, awarded second place entries, and randomly selected 10 people who gave feedback for some BRC passes.

Congratulations to Jonathan Provencher, the grand prize winner of the Garmin GPS unit provided by GPS World Supply. Also, congratulations to Steve Merschel, winner of the Level 1 Avalanche course from the CMS.

If you won a prize, you have already been notified by e-mail. For a complete list of winners, please e-mail myke@climbingboulder.com. - Ben Mottinger
Splitter Gear Review Mon Jan 14 18:41:51 2002
Our new sponsor and local company, Splitter Gear, is now selling the innovative 2Cam at Neptune's, Mountain Sports, and through ABC and Shoreline. Read about the sweet new cams here! Check out their webpage for more specifics on the 2Cam. - Ben Mottinger
New rock Added Sun Jan 13 12:07:52 2002
A new rock in Unaweep Canyon was just approved. It's Hidden Valley Wall, submitted by: - Bryson Slothower
New rock Added Fri Jan 11 10:46:23 2002
A new rock in Miscellaneous Crags was just approved. It's Lovers Leap, submitted by: - Darrin Stein
New rock Added Fri Jan 11 10:45:49 2002
A new rock in Miscellaneous Crags was just approved. It's North Turkey Creek Crags, submitted by: - Darrin Stein
New rock Added Wed Jan 9 13:41:04 2002
A new rock in Devil's Head was just approved. It's Devil's Head Campground Crag, submitted by: - Darrin Stein
New rock Added Tue Jan 8 22:51:35 2002
A new rock in North Cheyenne Canyon was just approved. It's Flying Buttress, submitted by: - Julian Smith
New rock Added Mon Jan 7 23:36:11 2002
A new rock in Independence Pass was just approved. It's Grotto Wall, submitted by: - Matt Samet
New rock Added Mon Jan 7 19:46:33 2002
A new rock in South Platte was just approved. It's Split dome aka - Split Rock, submitted by: - Darrin Stein
New rock Added Mon Jan 7 16:23:09 2002
A new rock in South Platte was just approved. It's The Little Dome, submitted by: - Darrin Stein
Fixed "Whole Damn Rock" Link Mon Jan 7 15:37:31 2002
whoops. Seems like every time I add something, I break something else. this is fixed - now ice sections actually have their information there. - Myke Komarnitsky
Climber Killed up by The Fang in Vail Mon Jan 7 10:38:14 2002
Be careful out there.....
--------------------------------------

From: "Malcolm Daly"
Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2002 10:18:38 -0700
Myke,


Here is something to post on the site about Rod Willard.

Mal


Hi,
For those of you whom I have not met, I am Kerry Evens, Rod's wife of 4 months. I wanted to e-mail everyone on his list to let you know of some tragic news. Rod was killed in an unbelievable ice climbing accident on Jan. 5, 2002. Briefly: he was the belayer when an approximately 400# block of ice broke free and struck him on the top of his helmeted (of course) head. Death was almost instantaneous, he was attended to immediately by friends who were EMT and ER nurse. Everything that could have been done was done. It is comforting to me to know he died in the mountains, the environment he loved over all others, and that he was with dear friends. For an avid climber like Rod, there is no better way he would have chosen to die. His memorial service will be held Wednesday Jan. 9, 2002 at the American Baptist Church in Fort Collins Colorado at 10AM. The address of the church is 600 S. Shields St. in Fort Collins. The service will be preceded by a processional of fire trucks, ambulances, police vehicles, Search and Rescue vehicles and AirLife of Greeley helicopter. The processional is planned to begin at Poudre Valley Hospital at about 9:20AM and go to the church from there. We are encouraging people to line the streets from the church to honor Rod as the processional goes by. There are several memorial funds being set up should anyone want to contribute in Rod's name. Poudre Valley Ambulance Service is setting up at scholarship fund for funding others in Paramedic school. Also, Rod supported Friends of Tibet, whose address can be found on the internet. I am so sorry to have to share this devastating news with you all. I know that everyone who knew Rod was a better person for knowing him and he was well loved and will be sorely missed.
Yours in Sorrow,
Kerry

PS: This accident happened while Rod was belaying a climber on "The Little Thang", aka, "The Seventh Tenacle", "The Frigid Inseminator". This has been the site of at least two other serious accidents, one of them resulting in a death. The Little Thang is the mixed climb directly behind the Fang in Vail, and offers some of the best "sport" ice climbing around. For those who think that sport ice climbing is safe (whatever that means) this accident should serve as a wake up call. Be careful out there...please. - Malcolm Daly
New rock Added Mon Jan 7 08:56:28 2002
A new rock in North Cheyenne Canyon was just approved. It's The Amphitheater, submitted by: - Julian Smith
New rock Added Fri Jan 4 09:01:45 2002
A new rock in North Cheyenne Canyon was just approved. It's West Face (The Pinnacle West Face), submitted by: - Anonymous Coward
Logo Contest Results Thu Jan 3 22:13:25 2002
We're getting close to deciding... but the results have been tabulated, and they are pretty funny. I hope the artists have a thick skin. :-) thanks to all for helping us out, and news on the schwag winners is coming shortly. Check out the results. - Myke Komarnitsky
Whos the A**hole here? Thu Jan 3 22:04:23 2002
We are, we are... ok, we do not condone this, we don't think it's funny, we are not violating copyright, we will pull it off shortly, etc etc etc.... but DAMN. The author is to remain anonymous... but it wasn't us! - Myke Komarnitsky
Another New Sponsor Thu Jan 3 20:35:01 2002
whoops, I forgot to mention: new climbing gear startup Splitter Gear is another new sponsor for the site. In case you haven't heard of them, just wait - these guys have the relaxed attitude(and smell) of climbing bums, but the imagination and dedication of True Engineers. You should have seen the booth at the Outdoor Retailer trade show - ghetto with none of all that fancy marketing crap; just the best engineering and most buzz of any new product at the show. Their new 2cams are the biggest innovation in climbing gear in a number of years; and the things they have in mind for the future are going to blow your mind (I can't share them - sworn to secrecy, sorry!). We're psyched to have them on the team.

[Disclaimer: ClimbingBoulder.com's maintainers do in fact own part of splitter gear.] - Myke Komarnitsky
"We now have corporate sponsorship" Thu Jan 3 20:29:25 2002
"Telephone, computer, fax machine, 52 weekly paychecks, and 48 airline flight coupons. We now had corporate sponsorship. This is how Tyler and I were able to have Fight Club every night of that week." -- Fight Club

Sounded somewhat appropriate. It's been a good year for climbingboulder.com, thanks to all of you. It's time to give back. Thus, we've partnered up and contributed to a few local organizations and good causes; we'd given too much to Miller, Bud, and Coors this year. You can check them out on our Sponsors-renamed-Partners page; especially Climbing For Life; check them out.

Thanks to all of you, for making this site the best climbing site on the internet, from all of us here at climbingboulder.com. - Myke Komarnitsky
New rock Added Thu Jan 3 00:18:53 2002
A new rock in Deville Rocks was just approved. It's Da Rock, submitted by: - Anonymous Coward
New area Added Thu Jan 3 00:15:26 2002
A new area called Deville Rocks was just approved, submitted by: - Leo Paik
New icerock Added Wed Jan 2 22:15:09 2002
A new rock in Moffatt Tunnel was just approved. It's north-facing wall or south-facing wall, submitted by: - Leo Paik
New icearea Added Wed Jan 2 22:14:56 2002
A new area called Wolf Creek Pass/ Pagosa S was just approved, submitted by: - Leo Paik
New icearea Added Wed Jan 2 22:14:48 2002
A new area called Wolf Creek Pass/ Pagosa S was just approved, submitted by: - Leo Paik
New icerock Added Wed Jan 2 22:14:37 2002
A new rock in Moffatt Tunnel was just approved. It's north-facing wall or south-facing wall, submitted by: - Leo Paik
New rock Added Wed Jan 2 22:08:36 2002
A new rock in North Cheyenne Canyon was just approved. It's Creekside Wall, submitted by: - Julian Smith
New rock Added Wed Jan 2 09:45:19 2002
A new rock in North Cheyenne Canyon was just approved. It's Silver Cascade Slab aka Hesitation Slab, submitted by: - Julian Smith
New rock Added Wed Jan 2 01:19:45 2002
A new rock in South Platte was just approved. It's Big Rock Candy Mountain, submitted by: - Brian Hansen
New rock Added Mon Dec 31 12:37:23 2001
A new rock in North Cheyenne Canyon was just approved. It's Graduation Boulder and Post-Graduation B, submitted by: - Dan Russell
New rock Added Mon Dec 31 12:37:14 2001
A new rock in North Cheyenne Canyon was just approved. It's Fly Cave Wall, submitted by: - Dan Russell
New rock Added Mon Dec 31 12:30:31 2001
A new rock in North Cheyenne Canyon was just approved. It's The Pinnacle, submitted by: - Dan Russell
New rock Added Mon Dec 31 10:53:26 2001
A new rock in Flatirons Central was just approved. It's Overture, submitted by: - Guy Humphrey
New area Added Mon Dec 31 00:14:00 2001
A new area called North Cheyenne Canyon was just approved, submitted by: - Julian Smith
Update on Logos Fri Dec 28 22:52:46 2001
We've pulled them off for public comment, and are summarizing and analyzing the results. I'll try and get them up this weekend; we've been cracking up at some of the feedback people provided - you all are some funny bastards, I'll give you that. Rest assured, we WILL make a decision about the logos, and we WILL announce who gets the schwag for giving us feedback. Just give us a few days, eh? - Myke Komarnitsky
Merry Christmas Mon Dec 24 23:31:57 2001
Happy holidays from all of us here at climbingboulder.com regional headquarters. We hope all is well with you and your family, and wish you good times for the coming year. - Myke Komarnitsky
Check out the title bars Mon Dec 24 14:55:08 2001
New function I added today. Now the title bar (the very VERY top of the web browser) will be dynamic for every page in the rock and ice databases, instead of the same title for every page. Kinda cool, eh? - Myke Komarnitsky
Holy Crap Christmas Lights Wed Dec 19 21:51:20 2001
Not really climbing-related, but amazing nontheless. My brother, Alek, has the most impressive set of Christmas lights I've ever seen. I mean 16,000 lights, 45 amps, newspaper articles type of lights. It's pretty cool I think, you might check it out. - Myke Komarnitsky
Wanna Nominate us? Wed Dec 19 20:59:39 2001
I'll probably regret posting this... but someone I know suggested that we be nominated for 9 News's Leader of the Year award. So, if you feel that climbingboulder.com is a site that has "made a lasting contribution to the wellbeing of the community and to the State," drop them a line and let them know. - Myke Komarnitsky
News Posting Function Fixed Wed Dec 19 09:25:39 2001
I should have fixed this a long time ago. The form that posts emails straight to the discussion list, absolutely wrecked the formatting in the emails. I finally got around to figuring out what was wrong, and fixing. Now it just looks terrific. :-) - Myke Komarnitsky
New Sponsor (kind of) Wed Dec 19 09:06:15 2001
Well, kind of. The Boulder Rock School was recently purchased by Colorado Mountain School. Since BRS (Boulder Rock Club is in that deal too) was a sponsor, now we have CMS. They seem like pretty nice folk, and we're glad they decided to sponsor the best climbing site on the web. - Myke Komarnitsky
System-Wide Update Wed Dec 19 01:35:51 2001
We changed the way we manage the code for the application to CVS. This is pretty boring and nerdy, mostly. But I needed to explain the change if something is screwed up. I don't think so, but as usual, if you see problems, please let us know. - Myke Komarnitsky
2.2k rock routes Tue Dec 18 11:30:36 2001
This story of reporting new route milestones is perhaps a little old, but it's an easy way for us to keep the news date recent and make it look like we actually do work on the site. The prolific Richard M. Wright pushes us over 2,200 routes with First Dibs on C-Section at Castlewood Canyon. Who will be the one to submit route number 2222? - Myke Komarnitsky
Almost done with Vacation... Mon Dec 17 12:51:29 2001
A number of folks have sent in suggestions for various things on the site. I'm still in NYC and Ben's almost done with finals, so rest assured we'll go through them all and check them out. BTW, bouldering in Central Park blows! I heard there was some good stuff, and after two hours of walking and an hour of running, I saw about three boulders with maybe 2 dozen problems, if you included eliminates and travserses. Maybe I missed it, but I was hoping for something a little bit better.

Buildering has ALL sorts of growth potential, though... - Myke Komarnitsky
Bridalveil Valls, Telluride - CLOSED! Fri Dec 7 16:09:35 2001
From the Access Fund.... what a bummer.

------------------------------------------------

Bridalveil Falls, one of the most sought-after ice climbs in Colorado, will be off-limits for the foreseeable future. Idarado Mining Company, owner of the property where the falls is located, has chosen not to renew their year-to-year public recreational access easement with the Town of Telluride. In a letter sent to Access Fund regional coordinator and local attorney Steve Johnson, the President of Idarado stated: “As a necessary result of the rejection of the annexation proposal for Idarado’s property by the voters of the Town of Telluride, Idarado is in the process of reviewing all of the various land uses previously permitted by Idarado on its property. Since the Easement no longer appears to be compatible with Idarado’s development plans for its property, Idarado will not be renewing the Easement for the coming year.” The Access Fund will explore all options for restoring access to this historic climb. - Myke Komarnitsky
New Privacy Function Fri Dec 7 15:37:37 2001
I've been thinking about this for a while... check out any of the people pages. Members can still be contacted by email, but their email address is hidden from psycho ex-girlfriends, spam bots crawling for email addresses, or that climber that you dropped your #4 camalot on.

Most of you probably don't care, but this is actually a pretty nice touch, I think. - Myke Komarnitsky
Trango Factory Blowout Fri Dec 7 11:40:52 2001
Just too busy right now, sorry for the late notices... but this looks sweet!
-----------------------------

It's time for our first ever Factory Sale

Save 40% to 80%

Come on out to our warehouse to help us clear out our 2000 and 2001 Spring inventory. We've got tons of women's activewear including cotton/lycra sports bras, active tops, shorts, pants and more. We're also clearing our some old climbing gear inventory and demos. You'll find cams, packs, rainwear and bivy shelters as well as tons of odds and ends.

Dates & Times:
Friday, December 7-Noon to 6:00
Saturday, December 8-9:00 to 5:00
ALL SALES FINAL We accept Visa, MasterCard and Cash

Directions are here. - Myke Komarnitsky
Neptune Show Tonight - Ed Webster Thu Dec 6 12:16:44 2001
We should have posted this earlier... "Ed's Farewell to Boulder Show" Ed Webster shares his favorite climbs from the Black Canyon to the Desert and the Diamond. $5 at Neptune's tonight 8pm...

on a personal note, I met Ed at the trade show in Salt Lake when I bought his book "Snow in the Kingdon." The book is beautiful, and the writing is amazing. Though he covers several events in his life, the main event is the 4-man, unsupported oxygen-free ascent of a new technical line on Everest. It's pretty incredible reading, the best climbing book I've read in a few years.

In meeting the guy, I was struck by what a truly nice individual he was; he had a sparkle in his eye and a true interest in getting to know who I was and what this insignificant web site I ran was about... I felt more honored to be in his presence than any of the other big name climbers at the show.

Anyways, my meaningless spray is that he's a pretty cool guy and the book's pretty sweet. You can check it out at www.mtnimagery.com/, and be sure to check out the show tonight. - Myke Komarnitsky
Whoops!! Wed Dec 5 00:19:52 2001
I messed up--a logo was not included in the voting that should have been there. If you have already voted, please take another look at the last entry. If this changes your vote, please resend your new vote and make a comment that this vote should replace the last one.

Sorry for the inconvenience everyone... - Ben Mottinger
That Damn Logo Contest Mon Dec 3 22:30:23 2001
After a dozen emails berating us for not getting the logo contest up.... here it is! Check it out at

www.climbingboulder.com/resources/logo/

and let us know what you think. BRC has donated 10 1-day passes, and Colorado Mountain School coughed up a free Level 1 Avalanche Course that we can give away to people who give their feedback on the logos. So go for it, and thanks to all those who took time out of their busy work day to spend time making a cool logo for us. - Myke Komarnitsky
Boulder Canyon Ice Sun Dec 2 21:56:42 2001
Here's an update from the Access Fund on the status of the water pipe in Boulder Canyon for ice climbing this season. Kind of interesting, though they mention the Boulder Ice Climber's Coalition, though I thought this organization kind of died off.... their web site's non-existent as well...
---------------
Boulder Canyon Ice Update: 11/30/01
Barker Pipeline Shut Down for Repair Work

Ice conditions in Boulder Canyon may be a bit lean through the end of the year due to repair work on the Barker pipeline. The 90-year old pipeline, which was acquired in March by the city of Boulder from Xcel Energy along with Barker and Kossler reservoirs and the Boulder Canyon Hydroelectric Plant, will be shut down at least until the end of December. “The repairs on the pipeline are absolutely critical in order to maintain the reliability of this key water distribution source,” said City Water Resources Coordinator Carol Ellinghouse. “In the past four years, two breaks have occurred on the Barker pipeline causing the need for emergency water use restrictions in Boulder.” The present work, which began in October, is the first of several repair projects that are scheduled for the Barker pipeline over the next several years.

Ice near Castle Rock forms largely as a result of leaks in the Barker pipeline although runoff from an underground spring in the vicinity may add to the flows. The Boulder Ice Climbers Coalition (BICC), a non-profit group formed with assistance from the Access Fund, hopes to reach an agreement with the city to maintain the ice flows once the leaks in the pipeline are repaired. The BICC hopes to resolve a number of outstanding issues, including how water use will be regulated, over the next few months.

You can learn more about the Barker project by visiting the city of Boulder website at: www.ci.boulder.co.us.

- Myke Komarnitsky
CU Mon Nov 26 12:41:57 2001
How bout those Buffs? I never thought I'd see the day--finally in my 6th and last year at CU they pull it off. Spectacular. We're going to be watching the Big 12 Championship at our house Sat. night if anyone's interested... - Ben Mottinger
Have a great Turkey Day! Wed Nov 21 17:55:22 2001
eat lots of turkey, watch a bunch of football, and pass out on the couch from the triptophan...

if you're bored, download this from Microsoft so your IE browser isn't as bug-ridden and easy to hack. - Myke Komarnitsky
We hit the 2k mark Wed Nov 21 08:52:33 2001
I was wondering if we were going to top over 2000 before thanksgiving... and then wake up to find Jeff Lockyer went crazy and pushed us over the top. Thanks Jeff, and thanks to all of you who make this site what it is - the best damn climbing site on the internet, period. - Myke Komarnitsky
Same Account for Sister Sites Tue Nov 20 14:29:23 2001
okay, work's done. Now your account (if you sign up, and you should, you freeloader) will be the same across all three sites - makes sense too, with all the climbers around here making the weekend drive over to indian creek. When you go to the moab or salt lake site, just click on contribute, and enter your email address on the right side. boom, you're done!

All the people who already had two accounts, I've merged them, so you're already set to go. - Myke Komarnitsky
Database Shakeup Tue Nov 20 13:33:29 2001
Once again, I'm doing a bunch of work behind the scenes... this time it's how it tracks and records people and their contributions. Let me know if you see any mistakes... except for Kreighton, I meant to blow all your contributions away. :-) - Myke Komarnitsky
560,000 hits last month Fri Nov 16 13:20:23 2001
I had an amazing conversation with a marketing genius today... and I realized that hits are a bigger number than page views, so it's better. I love marketing logic... - Myke Komarnitsky
1900 Sun Nov 11 10:15:34 2001
Ben Mottinger pushes us over another milestone with Southwest Defile Route out in Monument. Colorado Monument.

Also, we pushed over 50,000 page views this week - that's a lot of bored people at work! - Myke Komarnitsky
Choosing Photos when adding routes Sat Nov 10 13:11:59 2001
Yup, this works now... so if there's an applicable photo from the database already, you can associate it with that ice route, and make the route page look sweet! - Myke Komarnitsky
Nice Shelf Photos Fri Nov 9 17:35:04 2001
In case you haven't seen these, William Prehm has sent us a number of great photo for Shelf Road; here's An Example. - Myke Komarnitsky
Add Photos of Ice Routes Fri Nov 9 17:27:39 2001
Got some sweet shots of people on ice climbs? You can now submit a photo of someone climbing any ice route in the database... pretty cool! - Myke Komarnitsky
Aurora Borealis Fri Nov 9 10:47:13 2001
Check out the first photo in MSNBC's The Week in Pictures (clck on the 'large pictures' icon on the upper left). The first photo is by my brother-in-law - check it out, and don't forget to vote for it! - Myke Komarnitsky
Chipping, Round 2 Fri Nov 9 01:40:19 2001
The last few days have been an interesting time, especially for those on the Email List. We've tweaked some things and made some modifications to how we present and judge modified routes. Here's one - tell us what you think. - Myke Komarnitsky
Adding routes and ice routes Fri Nov 9 01:40:19 2001
Made some improvements on this - documentation, explanations, idiot-proofing.... you know, a little thing next to Route Name that says "put the name of the route in here." - Myke Komarnitsky
BIG people update Thu Nov 8 21:21:27 2001
Well, the people index page still sucks.... however, for all those point mongers out there, now any photos you add are credited on your scorecard.

Secondly, notice that we've increased the score for Ice Contributions, and Photos submitted. These are some areas that we've identified as wanting to grow. It's a competition! It's a competition! You are a better person the more points you have!

ok, time to go have a beer. - Myke Komarnitsky
the BLACKLIST Thu Nov 8 20:00:15 2001
You can check out all the routes we have classified as "modified" here. - Myke Komarnitsky
Ice Queries working Thu Nov 8 19:47:01 2001
I'm winning a tool award for filling up the news all with stuff done today... but now all the predefined queries are working. Hey, the ice section might actually fill out a little bit if the stuff actually works! - Myke Komarnitsky
Ice Route Query working Thu Nov 8 19:11:31 2001
the iceroute query function's working now. Looking for a II WI5 in the park? well, now you can! If you see any problems, let us know. - Myke Komarnitsky
BIG fix for Mac and Unix users Thu Nov 8 15:03:47 2001
Cripes - how did this one not get fixed for that long. People using Linux or Macs, if you were getting errors while trying to contribute, it should all work now. Pretty fundamental mistake, super quick fix. - Myke Komarnitsky
Additional Ice Functionality Thu Nov 8 10:36:05 2001
Now when you add an ice route, it gets up on the site immediately instead of overnight. Secondly, some of the formatting is fixed (new FA's are recognized, mixed ratings show up on the nav and for the route). Some better admin functions for us for the ice section of the site. More work on the way... - Myke Komarnitsky
Image Captions Thu Nov 8 00:48:04 2001
We got an email from Scott Lehman today, who made a good suggestion - so, the captions for the photos will make a lot more sense in terms of when they were taken, especially critical for the ice section.

Good places to see the difference is on Smear of Fear and The Fang. - Myke Komarnitsky
Submitting Ice Routes Thu Nov 8 00:48:04 2001
We made it a little bit easier to add ice routes today, less of those pop up windows for items that aren't really neccessary. We'll be adding some notes for this form next, to hopefully make it idiot-proof. - Myke Komarnitsky
New Area - Penitente Canyon Thu Nov 8 00:29:40 2001
With Rifle, the Iron Sides, and now Penitente, we're opening up some new territory. So, if you've climbed there and used this site, it's time to give back and give us some beta! - Myke Komarnitsky
Adding Photos Thu Nov 8 00:20:41 2001
Man, did that take some work. ok, now you can automatically submit photos to anything on the site - ice, rock, areas, etc. So, get going and add those photos! You can also get to it via the Contribute page, and also via every page in the database. - Myke Komarnitsky
Shelf Cleanup November 17-18 Tue Nov 6 09:36:45 2001
The Rocky Mountain Field Institute will be hosting its 9th Annual Volunteer Trail Maintenance Weekend at the Shelf Road climbing area near Canon City on the weekend of November 17-18. The focus of the weekend will be on the Cactus Cliff trail. To find out more about the weekend or how you can register, call the Rocky Mountain Field Institute in Colorado Springs at 719.471.7736. - Myke Komarnitsky
some Major Shit going down Mon Nov 5 22:24:12 2001
head over to newest route comments to see reactions and thoughts to the new chipping "confirmation" screen... - Myke Komarnitsky
Arizona Wins Sun Nov 4 22:45:05 2001
Woo hoo. - Myke Komarnitsky
Backend Updates Sun Nov 4 22:45:05 2001
I made some improvements to the backend, especially regarding the photo upload routine. Please let me know if you have any problems with it... (even you Richard!) - Myke Komarnitsky
Down with Chipped Routes Sun Nov 4 18:36:10 2001
Well, we've finally taken a stand about this issue. I want to thank all those who have contributed to the discussion on the site, or talked with us privately over email or in person, to help us formulate our stance on what to do with chipped routes.

We believe chipping is wrong. However, we believe ignoring the existing of such routes is not the correct avenue for us to address the issue.

Part of the nice thing of this web site is that the technology allows other, creative solutions to the problem. So, from now on, all chipped routes on the site will be marked as such. To see how they will look, check out

www.climbingboulder.com/rock/db/boulder_canyon/the_sport_par>>>

Lastly, special thanks to Matt Samet for writing up our statement on the matter. Far better than we could have done. - Myke Komarnitsky
People Ranking Fixed Sun Nov 4 17:54:12 2001
Somehow the people ranking got messed up - people's scores weren't being updated. All fixed now! - Myke Komarnitsky
Party Saturday Night Fri Nov 2 21:08:12 2001
Once again it's time to fire up the bbq, tap the kegs, and hope the police don't get called. We're having a party to celebrate .... hmmm.... Japan's Culture Day! If you feel like stopping by for a beer or twelve(and those of you we know, even more), stop by! Hell, even if we haven't met you before, come by for a free beer and share your latest climbing epic with us.

We're going to bbq about 6-7pm, and start drinking, but the party won't really get bumpin till 10 or so. See you then. - Myke Komarnitsky
Whoops - Directions Fri Nov 2 12:12:09 2001
Duh.... the Southern Intersection of Baseline and Cherryvale, NW corner.

Head east out baseline until you come to a T. We're on the NW corner - red brick house, big yard, fenced in. Dogs are welcome. 721 Cherryvale.

And don't give the 'I'd love to, but I'm going to the desert' excuse... we're hearing that already. - Myke Komarnitsky
Major Photo Restructuring Fri Nov 2 09:38:46 2001
Man, another huge pain in the ass. Well, it's one way to work off a hangover. What we've done is move just about ALL the photos that were attached to images but were really 'beta' photos, removed them, put them into the normal images database, and then associated them with routes, rocks, etc. Sounds pretty dumb, huh?

Well, the benefit is that one photo is on multiple pages (example: North Gateway Rock), which looks better than having to click to see it, and it also results in faster page loading because the picture is identical. Before, even though the picture looked the same, each one was a different file, which neccessitated downloading.

All those people who submitted photos that got deleted, don't worry, we've still got you as the submitter, and you'll still get points for your ranking.

The changes will be fully integrated in about 30 minutes. For those of you who know what I'm talking about with all this stuff: yes, it really was as much of a pain in the ass as you're thinking. - Myke Komarnitsky
1800 Thu Nov 1 13:21:03 2001
Tree Roof on Combat Rock at Miscellaneous Crags by Guy Humphrey pushes us over 1800 routes. We're now averaging 100 routes every two weeks. This is incredible! It'll be interesting to see if we hit 2000 by the end of the year, with the weather getting colder and all.... - Myke Komarnitsky
Happy Halloween Thu Nov 1 09:31:26 2001
Well, a day late and a dollar short. Hope you had a fun and eventful night - we sure did. - Myke Komarnitsky
New Front Page Images Fri Oct 26 14:40:36 2001
picked up a couple more cool photos for the front page. If you've got a photo you think is good enough for the front page, send it to us, and we'll throw it up there. - Myke Komarnitsky
Credits for Photos Fri Oct 26 01:26:07 2001
What a gigantic pain in the ass.... but went back and cleaned out all the photos, deleting bad ones (including those tiny ones for Table), and then confirming who submitted what to us. Credits now show up at the bottom for every image. From now on, don't submit a picture to a route if it's a picture of the route (ie NOT a person climbing). Instead, send it to us and we'll make it show up on that very page, and now you'll get credit for it. - Myke Komarnitsky
Lots o' updates Thu Oct 25 00:26:14 2001
Newest ice routes are now being published, counting the number of ice condition reports we have, Malcolm Daly sent us a sweet pic of Smear of Fear, and William Prehm sent us a couple of great photos for Cactus Cliff at Shelf. Fixed some buggy image behavior in a few places on the site, too. - Myke Komarnitsky
Logo Contest Update Wed Oct 24 15:58:32 2001
We've got the logos, and we're setting up the voting. Sorry, things have been pretty busy lately. Rest assured, we WILL do this in the next week or so. - Myke Komarnitsky
It's My Birthday Mon Oct 22 00:37:27 2001
Whoop de doo. the big 2-3.... guess I'm getting old. - Myke Komarnitsky
Flagstaff Cleanup Thu Oct 18 12:25:31 2001
The other day, after pulling down on one of the finest bouldering traverses in Colorado, my peace of mind was rudely interrupted by the painful zinging sensation that a burning cigarette butt causes when landing on your bare skin.

After venting at the unsuspecting butt-flicker enjoying the views on the rock above me, it occurred to me that I could bitch about the trash on Flagstaff forever, or I could make a real difference by aking an hour to clean it up. The conditions around the backside of the Monkey Traverse, and all around Cloudshadow are the worst ever. If you give a damn, come join us for an hour next week and we will make an attempt to clean it up.

Here is The Plan:

The following Wednesday, on October 24th at 5:00pm we will make an attempt to clean up some of the broken glass, cigarette butts, and other trash at some of the key bouldering locations. Rick Hatfield from Mountain Parks will be providing trash bags, gloves, rakes, and some really cool trash sucking things. First time trash people are welcome. No experience required. All you have to do is show up.

Let me know if you think you can participate.

Pass this info along to others you know that may be interested in helping.

Thanks, Willie Mein
303-735-5020 (day)
303-543-8947 (eve)
mein@lasp.colorado.edu
- Myke Komarnitsky
1700 Routes Thu Oct 18 12:23:43 2001
Joe Collins snags route number seventeen hundred, with Sundogs at Shelf. The weather's still nice - get those routes in! - Myke Komarnitsky
Logo Contest Deadline Sun Oct 14 13:25:41 2001
This is a reminder that the logo contest deadline is midnight October 15. Please send any last-minute entries to ben@climbingboulder.com.

We have received about 10 logos so far so voting will begin later this week once we compile them all into a webpage.

Thanks! - Ben Mottinger
New Black guidebook Tue Oct 9 16:49:17 2001
Robbie Williams new "Black Canyon Rock Climbs", published by Sharp End Books, is now in print. Look for it at your favorite climbing shop. Well-written, interesting, and informative, it is a fitting first guide to a remarkable climbing area. - Steve Levin
Soldier Dam Public Meeting Mon Oct 8 13:38:23 2001
The tropics on Soldier Dam in Fort Collins is scheduled for demolition, perhaps as early as November. The area will not just be covered, but the whole cliffband will be blasted. We're urgently requesting the climbing community to attend a public meeting where our voice will be directly heard by the Bureau of Reclamation. The meeting is scheduled for thursday October 25th at 6:30pm.

See the Calendar post in Community for more info... - Ben Mottinger
On Vacation Thu Oct 4 22:39:44 2001
Tommorrow morning I'm off to Yosemite for a few days of R&R after a long last few weeks of work. Ben's in the mountains with his girl. Have fun in Boulder, and see you when we get back! - Myke Komarnitsky
Stolen Draws on Monument Direct Thu Oct 4 21:42:23 2001
Damn gear horkers.... see a similar incident to this.

----------------------------------
"During the past week, a friend's draws were stolen from Monument Direct in Eldorado. We think that someone must have rappelled from above, as only the draws past the lip of the cave were swiped.

If anyone has any info on who may have done it, please contact me at cool_craggin@juno.com.

Thanks in Advance, Colin

PS For those new to the sport, I think it's important to say that a single piece of gear is hanging from the route may be abandoned booty, but if a whole route is equipped (including both anchors) there was definately no bail involved. The gear is someone else's. Leave it there." - Myke Komarnitsky
1600 Wed Oct 3 20:05:12 2001
Yup - another milestone. Lyle Monzyk pushed us over the top. As always, thanks to all you out there for making this site so amazing. - Myke Komarnitsky
Trango and the Ice DB Wed Oct 3 10:04:18 2001
We have exciting news--Trango, is our newest sponsor and have helped get the Ice Database up to speed and ready for the season.

Now you can add ice routes and suggest areas and rocks just like the rock db. Also, the coolest feature for the ice section that will set it apart is CURRENT ICE CONDITION REPORTS from all over the state. Malcolm Daly (Trango Pres) has a network of climbers who will be reporting conditions throughout the season. So look here to see if that drip is in fat.

We're excited about this new feature and hope it takes off just like the route comments. Malcolm says the time is just about right for very seasonal flows in the park so get on up in there ya'll! - Ben Mottinger
Adding stuff - FIXED Mon Oct 1 11:02:29 2001
Sorry folks... the addition scripts were broken from about 5pm yesterday until 30 seconds ago. So any comments or routes that you may have added didn't get in... sorry bout that. - Myke Komarnitsky
Images Screw Up Sun Sep 30 14:01:47 2001
About two weeks ago, while messing with the route images function, we managed to screw it up. We have the words, the people, and the images, but don't know which route they belong to. If you've submitted one of these, can you please email us to let us know which route they belong to? Here are the comments:

Sharkstooth, Petit, Saber from sky pond Photographer: Rob Walters
view from south of the upper section of the route Photographer: Rob Walters
The dihedral from down below.
Alli Rainey just below the crux. Photo by Mark Bockmann.
Jay W. on Aerogel. Photo by Joe M.
Loren barely above the back hurting rock.
Just starting out on the nice ledge.
Craig just starting across.
The summit blade.


- Myke Komarnitsky
FHRC time again Sat Sep 29 22:59:22 2001
2 new applications for a fixed hardware addition in Eldorado canyon are in.... check em out and vote. - Myke Komarnitsky
Neptune Mountaineering Thu Sep 27 21:57:06 2001
I'm in a reflective mood now, so bear with me. In May of 2000, this site had about 75 routes. A few photos, a thousand page views a week, and not structure. It was a piece of crap.... but we had an idea.

And we went to Gary Neptune. He saw what we had, and listened to what our vision was. His response: he was excited for us, and said that he definitely wanted to help us out. Neptune's was our first sponsor, and at an amount that made it possible to justify the many hours we've since put in to make this site better.

Since then, we've had the opportunity to get 'inside' the climbing industry a little bit. And everyone I've met has nothing but absolute respect and fondness for Gary and Neptune Mountaineering. Many told me that Neptune's is the best climbing store, anywhere. Some buyers at the Outdoor Retailer show in Salt Lake, I heard, look at what Neptune's is buying and follow suit.

I am proud to say that Neptune's sponsors us. Everyone knows that Neptune's isn't the cheapest - you can go to fogdog.com or rei.com or wherever and get something and save a couple of bucks. But you don't get the people who really know what they're talking about (I talked to two people today to get beta for a specific route in Yosemite I'm doing next week). You don't get the pleasure of dealing with a place that supports local projects (climbingboulder.com, crag cleanups, guidebooks, Diamond Productions posters, slide shows, etc.).

My (long-winded and rambling) point is that a lot of the results of all our work has been because Gary believed in us to try something new and exciting. I have the very utmost respect for him for making such a decision.

I shop at Neptune's. I hope you do too. - Myke Komarnitsky
1500 routes Mon Sep 24 21:40:12 2001
Now this is just getting ridiculous. We've bumped up yet another 100 routes in less than 2 weeks. Richard Wright pushed us over the top with Lat's don't have feelings. This is interesting, given that Richard has been one of our most prolific contributors. It's also interesting because back on May 23 Richard and I discussed via email the then-grandiose possibility of 1500 routes by the end of August. Well, we were off by one month.... but I'd say we're doing pretty damn well.

I also have to say, that as I'm looking at the recent routes added, there are 11 different people credited with contributing the 20 most recent routes. That says to me that it's not just 1 or 2 people who are taking time out of their (normal work)day to give something back to the community. That's cool. I thank you. - Myke Komarnitsky
"Closed" Titles on Pages Thu Sep 20 19:31:43 2001
I'm doing some testing of another application on the system right now, so a few crags say CLOSED at the top of them. Please ignore this. - Myke Komarnitsky
Logo Contest Thu Sep 20 13:30:27 2001
If you didn't hear about it before, we are looking for a bad-ass logo to use for t-shirts, stickers, etc. So far we only have 3 submissions since Aug 23...Come on you slackers! We're extending the deadline until Oct. 15 for entries.

The winning design gets a GPS unit sponsored by GPS World Supply!

Get more details here. - Ben Mottinger
Top Left Search Function Thu Sep 20 00:14:14 2001
Yeah, we know, it's been all messed up for a while. Well, now, it's working correctly. - Myke Komarnitsky
New Maps (taste of things to come) Wed Sep 19 16:20:19 2001
Check out

Myke Komarnitsky
Image adminstration Wed Sep 19 12:05:16 2001
Once again, we're slogging away on some structural changes. If you see some images that are broken, please let us know, ok? - Myke Komarnitsky
Updates to Ice Database Mon Sep 17 03:55:35 2001
Ben and I spent a ton of time tonight working on the code. the ice section has been consolidated, cleaned up, etc.... so that it's going to absolutely KICK ASS for this ice season. Oh yeah, and check out the timestamp on this one! - Myke Komarnitsky
Site Changes Sun Sep 16 22:56:45 2001
Again, we're making some changes/modifications to the way the system functions. If you see some errors in the secondary navigation.... sorry.... we're working on it. - Myke Komarnitsky
New York (Part II) Sun Sep 16 22:52:48 2001
My warm regards to those that have shown support for the challenge our nation has come to face. Even though we are changing the facade of the site back to the normal look, know that we carry the same sense of patriotic support, and take actions in accordance with that spirit. We hope that our visitors, you, do the same. God Bless America. - Myke Komarnitsky
New York City Wed Sep 12 14:30:18 2001
Like you, I've been appalled at the scenes coming out of New York City. Our nation, and our world, has been irrevocably changed. I pray that the end result is that the world will be come a better place because of the tragedies of yesterday.

I went by Bonfils this morning to donate, but it was packed - apparently they even want people to not come in and donate until later in the week, so they can process the rush that they've gotten. So I donated money to the red cross.

I invite every one of you to donate to this cause, in whatever way you can. It is the right thing to do. And when you do, go to climbingboulder.com and tell us what you donated. Not for the recognition or the glory, but to encourage others that see your deeds to do the same.

Give something of yourself, to help your fellow Americans in need. - Myke Komarnitsky
1400 Routes Mon Sep 10 23:22:49 2001
Dan "The Yote" Mottinger pushes us over another milestone. Will it ever stop? - Myke Komarnitsky
Adopt a Crag - Success! Mon Sep 10 16:47:37 2001
The Adopt-a-Crag event in Eldo this saturday went really well... 20+ people showed up in the rain/snow to slog 2' and 3' sections of railroad ties from the road up to and beyond the talus field below rincon(sounds like fun eh?). With 20 people, we built some stairs and staged 40-something of these sections of wood to build a staircase there. I dare say that a good time was had by all - plus the Access Fund hooked everyone up with smartwool socks, water bottles, and cliff bars. It's all about the schwag, as one participant said.

Afterwards people ajourned and then returned to climbingboulder.com world headquarters for some bbq, burritos, and beer, thanks to ACE, Qdoba's, and Mountain Sun. Of course since 20 people can't finish a keg, we've been buying bags of ice and drinking like fish for the last couple of days. Nothin like drinking a couple of pitchers of FREE Colorado Kind while watches Band of Brothers on HBO. If anyone wants to come by for Monday Night Football and a few beers... the invitation's open. - Myke Komarnitsky
System Upgrade Fri Sep 7 15:22:50 2001
We just moved servers. Old one: P2 233 w/ 96 megs of ram and 5 gig HD, now we've got a 1 gig athlon with 128megs of ram and a 20 gig HD. Total downtime on the changover: 4 minutes. It looks like everything's working ok; if you see any problems, let us know. - Myke Komarnitsky
Adopt a Crag this Saturday Thu Sep 6 20:19:50 2001
Yup, this saturday! see the info page (link up top on the right side) for the logistics. Mountain Sun keg afterwards, food, et al.... what are you doing on saturday, climbing? You freeloader, for once in your life give something back to the community. - Myke Komarnitsky
Interesting Search on Dan Hare Mon Sep 3 21:56:11 2001
Try typing in "Dan Hare" into the search box in the upper left. Kinda neat.... but it doesn't quite match up to the story "Crusher" Bartlett mentions in his intro to Rossiter's Eldorado Canyon guide. An excerpt:

"Hey Dan, any idea how many first ascents you've done around here?" Dan Looked puzzled. "Hmmmm. Well, a few years ago, one quiet day at the Boulder Mountaineer, we sat down and started counting. We got only partway up Boulder Canyon and sort of lost interest at around 200..."

- Myke Komarnitsky
System Testing Today Fri Aug 31 09:10:00 2001
The rock database may look a little ugly this morning.... doing some refining in how it gets built and indexed. Probably back to normal by 11 or so. - Myke Komarnitsky
GPS Coordinates Added Tue Aug 28 18:40:10 2001
We'll most likely be ridiculed by the peanut gallery, but we've set up the database to accomodate gps coordinates. We know what you're thinking: what is the use of gps coordinates for The Bastille? Well, wouldn't it be nice for those alpine routes where you bushwhack in to have a backup for the written description? It's also nice to have some points in your system when you get stuck in a blizzard on Long's Peak.

But as usual with things we introduce... maybe it'll be useful, maybe we just wasted a few hours of our time. Let's find out. - Myke Komarnitsky
Access Fund Climbers' Alert Tue Aug 28 10:38:45 2001
Congress Could Extend "Test" Use Fees Program for Four More Years!

Now is the time to speak up and oppose use fees as a substitute for full public lands funding through the federal budget.

Get the full story here. - Ben Mottinger
Adding Photos Tue Aug 28 10:18:01 2001
We're pretty sure we got this working... it passed the couple of tests that we performed. So now, if you want to add a photo of the route or someone climbing the route, you can now do it completely via the web site.

If you run into problems with it, please let us know. - Myke Komarnitsky
Logo Contest Thu Aug 23 16:09:00 2001
The time has finally come for some ClimbingBoulder.com t-shirts, which means we need a logo design and a cool quote. So we're asking you, the users, to come up with the sweet design and in return we're giving away a fabulous showcase of prizes if the price is right.

1. Grand Prize: Garmin E-trex Vista GPS unit with all the accessories including car kit, PC cable, MapSource 15' US topo map software, and carrying case. Plus a ClimbingBoulder.com t-shirt for a total retail value of about $475.

2-10. "Special" Winners Club: ClimbingBoulder.com t-shirt when they arrive and a free pass to the BRC.

Guidelines for entries:

1. Maximum of 3 colors for logo 2. Keep the logo simple (no fine detail, have defined color lines, etc). 3. Logo must incorporate "ClimbingBoulder.com" somehow. 4. All entries must be received by Sept. 23 (one month). 5. Entries may be submitted electronically in standard image formats (jpg, gif, psd, tiff) in their original (maximum) quality or hardcopies may be mailed to us at:

ClimbingBoulder.com Logo Entry 2510 Blue Heron Circle Lafayette, CO 80026

You may enter just a logo design or just a quote or both, but the grand prize only goes to the logo. If we use your quote, you'll get a nice prize too.

Good luck! If you have questions, e-mail us at: ben@climbingboulder.com. We'll announce winners after a week of online voting. - Ben Mottinger
More FFA's on the Diamond Thu Aug 23 10:57:11 2001
Some more news from the Diamond: Topher Donahue and Roger Briggs free-climbed the entire "Bright Star" route last week. Located on the right of the Yellow Wall area, the route climbs excellent rock with almost every pitch rated hard 5.11, including the pitches above Table Ledge, through the large roof where Ed Webster originally nailed. In the 80s Charlie Fowler and Scott Cosgrove free climbed a good portion of the route, but this appears to be the FFA in it's entirety. - Steve Levin
Access Fund Job Opportunity Thu Aug 23 08:53:04 2001
The Access Fund is looking for a couple of people to hire. They're up by Alpine and Broadway, and a great company to work for. Just got fired by a dot-bomb? check em out.

Event Coordinator
The Access Fund needs a motivated person with excellent people skills and organization to run our nation-wide Events and Community Partners programs. The Events Coordinator works directly with climbing gyms, retail stores, local climbing organizations, guide services and outdoor programs to set up fundraising events, membership promotions and climber outreach. This is a full-time employment opportunity with good benefits and an exciting work environment. Salary negotiable based on experience. Climbing background preferred. Position based in Boulder, Colorado. Send query or resume with cover letter to Heather Clark, heather@accessfund.org.

Office Manager
The Access Fund is looking for a person with solid bookkeeping, data entry, inventory management and general administrative skills to join our climbing advocacy team. The Office Manager supports our Membership Program, special events and development, merchandise sales, and accounting. This is a full-time position with good benefits and an exciting work environment. Salary based on experience. Position based in Boulder, Colorado. Send query or resume with cover letter to Kerry Cowan, 303-545-6772 x 106 or kerry@accessfund.org. - Myke Komarnitsky
GPS Survey Wed Aug 22 17:47:45 2001
We're doing a quick survey on GPS use. You can check it out at

groups.yahoo.com/group/climbingboulder-discuss/polls. - Myke Komarnitsky
Outdoor Retailer Show Wed Aug 15 01:27:40 2001
In 6 1/2 hours we're leaving for the Outdoor Retailer show in Salt Lake City. I'm heading over there with Splitter Gear and their new 2cam.... so, certain site updates (rock, area, suggestions) may not happen until next week. Oh yeah, and DAMN KINKO'S for keeping me up this late because they can't figure out how to make a friggin' color copy correctly. - Myke Komarnitsky
Dan and Dan at Neptune's Tue Aug 14 09:07:21 2001
Whoops - I misspoke earlier. Dan Howley and Dan Smith STILL work at Neptune's, just on a reduced schedule. Didn't mean to freak anyone out there... - Myke Komarnitsky
Rock Summary Pages Added Mon Aug 13 08:37:49 2001
Over the weekend, we implmented a new page from the database. Note that on the rock page, you can click on a link that says "Print the whole Damn rock". This will give you a page for the rock, and every route we have on that rock. It's not the prettiest (repitition of the pulldown nav bars), but it's functional... and if you're going to spend the day at the rock it might be easier to just print this than 20 separate pages... - Myke Komarnitsky
Lost Ring at Highwire Crag Fri Aug 10 23:33:39 2001
Just forwarding it on.....
====================================

I dont know if this is possible or not, but I am writing to ask you if you could put something on the front page of the climbingboulder webpage for something important. My girlfriend and I were out climbing at clear creek today and while we were climbing she lifted her bag and her graduation ring was lost out of her bag. I don't know if it fell out and was on the trail and someone picked it up, or if indeed it is truly lost up there somewhere. but is it at all possible that we could get a posting in the news section for a reward of 50$ if soemone found it and contacted us. I would also give you a bit of cash as well for doing this for us, it is a vedry important ring for her. It is a silver ring that has "Dalhousie University" written on it, a nursing ring. If this is possiblt, just letme know, and my contact information if someone found it would be this email address, or 303-221-0701

I forgot to metion where we were climbing. We were at the highwire crag, over by stone cold moderate is where she thinks we lost it, but we were also by people's choice, in that area. in between these two routes is the probable area. - Myke Komarnitsky
Lots of New Rock Photos Fri Aug 10 09:55:40 2001
Quinn Stevens added a great photo for the Anarchy Wall. Also, Jim Cormier added a number of photos of rocks in the South Saint Vrain, like Roadside Rock and December Wall, to name a couple. Thanks guys. - Myke Komarnitsky
New First Ascents in Database Thu Aug 9 18:16:02 2001
This is pretty cool, and I know I mentioned it two news items ago. We're going to start tracking and reporting on new first ascents/new lines that are going up. We're really excited about this change. - Myke Komarnitsky
New Climbing Gym in Boulder Thu Aug 9 17:25:34 2001
Dan Howley and Dan Smith, two former Neptune Mountaineering boys, are starting up a new bouldering gym in Boulder. Help them make it the best gym they can, and score a free pass when it opens, by filling out a short survey.

www.thespotgym.com

- Myke Komarnitsky
Changes to route form Thu Aug 9 14:31:28 2001
If you're adding a route, there's a few new choices now: you can choose boulder problem or aid climb; which will help us further refine our database.

Secondly, if the route you're adding is newly developed, there's a "new route" checkbox. This way we can start to catalog new FA's and routes in the area, and recognize those people who are bolting, cleaning, and putting up bold new lines.

It looks like it's working now.... but if you see problems/mistakes, just let us know. - Myke Komarnitsky
1000+ comments! Thu Aug 9 09:54:58 2001
Is anyone else being blown away by the stunning increases in routes and comments lately? Once again, you've broken through a milestone of sorts, proving that we're doing something right here at climbingboulder.com. - Myke Komarnitsky
Adopt-A-Crag Sept 8 - sign up now Mon Aug 6 09:25:30 2001
As we've mentioned before, ACE (Action Committee for Eldorado), Neptune Mountaineering, and the folks here at climbingboulder.com are sponsoring an adopt-a-crag event through the Access Fund.

The sign-up to help out is up and active! Sign up, so that we have a better idea of how many people we're dealing with.

Still working on getting the kegs for the post-cleanup barbeque... hell, if we don't get sponsored for those we'll just cover them anyways. - Myke Komarnitsky
Area Closures Fri Aug 3 14:26:54 2001
This is what you've all been waiting for since Feb--the seasonal closures in ALL areas have been lifted until next year. The "staff" of ClimbingBoulder.com happily reports (as of 6am this morning) that the 3rd is doing just fine and still one of the best kick in the pants around. Enjoy! - Ben Mottinger
Diamond's first 5.13! Thu Aug 2 08:13:06 2001
World Exclusive! Steve Levin wrote in that on Sunday he watched Tommy Caldwell redpoint every pitch on the Honeymoon is Over on the Diamond. Roger Briggs confirmed it, so the Diamond now has it's first 5.13! - Myke Komarnitsky
A Ha! Mon Jul 30 14:14:28 2001
Now those damn area pages are fixed... Thanks for the help in troubleshooting that Quinn! - Myke Komarnitsky
Area pages fixed Mon Jul 30 00:51:36 2001
Well.... sort of. We know there's the [ and ] at the beginning and end.... and the js pulldowns from the area straight to a route are broken. We're working on it. - Myke Komarnitsky
Technical Difficulties Wed Jul 25 12:31:18 2001
Something is kind of whacked out with the rock database right now. Working on it... - Myke Komarnitsky
1000 Routes! Tue Jul 24 14:48:43 2001
That's a milestone! 18 months and 2 days after starting the site, we've turned over the fourth number on the odometer. This may mean a kegger in the near future... currently working on signing up a microbrew sponsor.

Thank you, from all of us, to all of you, for taking your time to submit your beta on climbing around here. You've neglected your spouse, your job, and heaven forbid, climbing, to make this site, hands down, the BEST climbing site on the internet. - Myke Komarnitsky
New Area - Vedauwoo Tue Jul 24 14:22:38 2001
Now this is interesting. We got a request to add Vedauwoo to our coverage. We've focused on the front range, but things are going so well, ... well, why the hell not? Let's see if it fills out into something substantial. Hey, and now you have an excuse to get up there - we need beta on the area! It will be on the site tommorow. - Myke Komarnitsky
Query Function working again Fri Jul 20 15:13:26 2001
Fixed that problem. Sorry bout that; it's one of the most popular pages on the site. - Myke Komarnitsky
5.15? Thu Jul 19 22:50:26 2001
Sharma completed his extension to Biographie today and with it adds a new 5.15a grade. Read about it here. - Ben Mottinger
Boulder Climbers die in Yosemite Wed Jul 18 10:17:32 2001
Tom Dumwidde and Monika Eldridge, Denver and Boulder, died while climbing the DNB of Middle Cathedral in Yosemite. YOSAR indicated the presence of rock fall but could not determine whether it came before or after the fall. They were roped and fell approximately 1000 ft. You can see a news article at

www.bouldernews.com/news/local/18ldead.html

Our condolences go out to their friends and family. - Myke Komarnitsky
Suggestion form Wed Jul 18 09:31:50 2001
Now you can suggest a correction or addition to any area, rock, or route in the database. Just look for the link at the top of any of these pages. One more way of getting ALL the highest quality beta to ya. - Ben Mottinger
New Sponsor Tue Jul 17 12:33:12 2001
We are very pleased to add a new sponsor to the site: GPS World Supply. They hooked us up with some sweet handheld GPS units and all the accessories, which we'll be using to add some cool new features. Please take a look at their site for any GPS hardware! - Ben Mottinger
Contribute page Mon Jul 16 15:47:57 2001
Wanted to add a route, rock, or area but weren't sure how to do it? Now you can use the Contribute page to add all the beta you want. Sign up here also so you may add content if you're not already a member!

It's easy to find now too--a main navigation link on the left side. Everyone owes Myke for this one--he's been working way too hard on this site lately.

Ben - Ben Mottinger
Route Comments - we screwed the pooch Mon Jul 16 12:39:17 2001
If it ain't broke don't fix it, right? In all our fiddling lately, we broke the route comments form. Basically any comments for the last two days, we didn't get. Dop! Well, it's fixed now. - Myke Komarnitsky
Comments on areas and rocks now Sat Jul 14 19:20:06 2001
You can now comment on any rock and area in the database. Do our directions suck? Is there a great place to camp in the area? Tell the world. - Myke Komarnitsky
System Test Sat Jul 14 14:03:46 2001
Testing. - Myke Komarnitsky
Site Architecture Update Fri Jul 13 21:20:12 2001
We did a lot of work in the last few days finishing a change in the way the site is structured. You shouldn't see a difference in the way the site performs. If you see something broken, let us know. - Myke Komarnitsky
ClimbingBoulder.com V4.0 coming... Wed Jul 11 01:17:03 2001
If you've been checking out the site frequently in the last couple of weeks, you've undoubtedly been wondering if I do anything else in my life than work on this site. It's a reasonable point to ponder.

that being said, after some major inspiration and coding, version 4.0 of climbingboulder.com is on the way. You probably won't see much of a change, but the way the back-end architecture is implemented frees us up for a whole other level of what we can do.. .... I'd prefer to keep it under wraps for now, but I think in a few weeks the results will be seen. This may very well be more exciting than when we released V3.0....

Keep climbing. - Myke Komarnitsky
Great way to waste time at work Mon Jul 9 10:13:53 2001
Since starting this site almost 18 months ago, we've received a lot of comments from people. We Compiled a List of compliments we've received, and a few notable/funny/idiotic ones as well. Kind of interesting to read.

Of course, if you want to make us feel cool you could send us more compliments on the site! - Myke Komarnitsky
Query engine improvements Sun Jul 8 16:59:39 2001
Now you can put a couple of additional filters when searching for that V 5.12a 3 star route. check it out on the Rock page. - Myke Komarnitsky
New Sponsor Fri Jul 6 19:04:53 2001
We signed up a new sponsor recently, gpsworldsupply.com. They're hooking us up with some great GPS units, which we're going to use to make finding areas, rocks, and routes even easier. Have a great weekend! - Myke Komarnitsky
Find a Partner! Fri Jul 6 11:54:15 2001
Partner Finder is now active. We've worked on it a fair amount to make it flexible, yet effective.... but we probably messed up something or another along the way. Suggestions on ways to improve it? Let us know! - Myke Komarnitsky
People in the database.... Fri Jul 6 09:33:35 2001
You may have noticed that we've made some changes to the way that people are shown on the site; now any comments, photos, and routes that you submit are attributed to you, and then used to recalculate your "rating". Basically we weight the items, since we think that stuff photos are usually cooler and take more effort than just a comment. As mentioned before, the scale is:

5 x each photo attributed 5 x each area attributed 3 x each rock attributed 2 x each route attributed 1 x each comment attributed

Somehow, it appears that a few people who were in the database have mysteriously disappeared. If you're not on the rating page at www.climbingboulder.com/community/people/ , let us know and we'll re-add you. Sorry bout that!

- Myke Komarnitsky
Gotta stop working on this crap... Wed Jul 4 00:06:45 2001
Happy 4th (since it's now officially the day)!

added about 20 new photos of people climbing tonight, ones that I had sitting around for quite a while. Special thanks to Tyler Jones, for some great photos of routes. - Myke Komarnitsky
new front page images Tue Jul 3 21:23:17 2001
Added 3 new front page images, hope you like em. We may institute a voting system on them if people think any are particularly lame.

Have a great 4th of July! I'm heading up to Lumpy, myself...

Finally, check out the people section. We've instituted a ranking system, to recognize those people who have contributed to the site. The rating is determined as follows:
- each photo - 5 points
- each area - 5 points
- each rock - 3 points
- each route - 2 points
- each comment - 1 point

What do you think? Is this fair, or a stupid idea? We'd like to hear about it. - Myke Komarnitsky
Changes at the site Mon Jul 2 19:29:42 2001
We've made a number of changes to the site lately in its functionality.... we think we got them all working correctly... but if you spot something you think isn't working right, let us know. - Myke Komarnitsky
Incremental updating implemented Mon Jul 2 15:57:48 2001
Doesn't that title sound great? Basically if you add a route, a comment, or a photo, it gets reflected instantly in the site, instead of overnight. Just another feature that shows that at climbingboulder.com, we care more. - Myke Komarnitsky
Photo Function finally works again Mon Jul 2 08:37:36 2001
Four months after we broke it, the route "add a photo" function works now. - Myke Komarnitsky
FHRC results Mon Jun 18 14:42:36 2001
The session for comments is over... we haven't talked with FHRC yet, but it appeared that this experiment was a success. There were 16, 21, and 33 responses for the three applications, respectively. We'll post more info as we hear it. - Myke Komarnitsky
On Vacation Tue Jun 5 21:10:22 2001
We're on vacation - Road Tripping to the West (Myke), Road tripping to the East (Ben), and Europe (Shaun). So while route and route comment updates will still occur, other stuff may not for a couple of weeks. BTW, you can see myke's trip updates at myke.komar.org/june2001/. - Myke Komarnitsky
Cool Site Award Sat Jun 2 15:46:26 2001
We were hononed recently with the Camp 4 "cool site" award. Check out their site too--lot's of neat info. - Ben Mottinger
FHRC Review Applications Mon May 28 11:00:13 2001
The Eldorado Canyon Fixed Hardware Review Committee receives applications every year to add, replace, or remove fixed hardware. They have always solicited comments from the community on these applicaitons; this year, they are using the internet to make it even easier for peoplet. There are three proposals - you can read and comment about them HereMyke Komarnitsky
Added another rock in Castlewood Mon May 21 15:01:59 2001
Title Says it all. Two routes and images will show up tommorrow... - Myke Komarnitsky
What month is it? Sun May 20 19:53:24 2001
How can we be climbing shirtless today, and have a frickin snowstorm in the afternoon? - Myke Komarnitsky
Site Optimization Sat May 19 14:30:21 2001
Did some stuff today that should make the site load even faster. However, if we messed up anywhere, some of the formatting may go to crap. If you see anything like this, let us know.

For those interested, we changed the style sheet definitiona. Whereas before we had
some text
now we simply have
some text
This saves 32 bytes in each instance.... but over the course of the site, it saves a noticable amount. Anyways, enough nerd stuff for one day. - Myke Komarnitsky
Route Comments Update Thu May 17 23:00:34 2001
We made a small change in the way that route comments are submitted and categorized... they are now attributed to those people who have signed up as team members. You can still comment without signing up, but then you won't receive the recognition that you truly crave. If we made any mistakes or misattributions, please let us know. So far, the Vernon Brothers have a commanding lead in contribution - guess we owe them some BRC passes! - Myke Komarnitsky
800 routes! Thu May 17 22:56:32 2001
This is just too awesome. We were targeting 1000+ routes by the end of the summer.... but now, we think we can nail 1500+ routes and 1000 comments by the end of August. Thanks for all the help, folks! - Myke Komarnitsky
Fixed Route comments Problem Thu May 17 10:50:22 2001
How the hell did we let this one go on for so long? isn't was isn, don't was don .... Anyways, all fixed now. sorry bout that. - Myke Komarnitsky
College degree and web consulting Mon May 14 11:13:52 2001
Just decided to share some exciting news for me.... I graduated this last friday! Bachelor of Science in Aerospace Engineering from CU-Boulder. So, um, congratulations for me!

What am I doing now? Well, I am the owner of Komar Consulting Group, LLC, a Boulder-based web design, consulting, database, and hosting firm. One of the purposes of this site is to show off some of our capabilities. If you or your company is looking for work of this nature, we'd be happy to discuss with you your options. You can email us at myke@komar.org, or call us at 303.818.3718

Sincerely,
- Myke Komarnitsky
New Area - Carter Lake Sun May 13 18:00:21 2001
Went up to Carter Lake yesterday.... absolutely gorgeous. Too bad I blew my ankle out while I was there. Anyways, check out the new routes. We've got photos, and we'll get them added here asap. - Myke Komarnitsky
Qwest is dumb... Thu May 10 11:21:45 2001
The site was down for a few hours this morning.... a qwest technician updating our internet connection did something really dumb. - Myke Komarnitsky
Himalaya movie - June 8th Wed May 9 11:51:06 2001
Just passing it along....

Film: HIMALAYA in Denver on June 8th.

Filmed in the forbidden Dolpo region of Nepal under the most challenging of conditions, Himalaya captures the fast disappearing traditions of a remote Tibetan culture. Featuring a cast of mostly non-professionals, the film tells the story of a generational power struggle for the leadership of a tiny mountain village played out between its proud old chief and a headstrong young caravaner as they make their annual salt delivery trek across the Himalayas.

Himalaya is the feature directorial debut of author, documentarian and National Geographic photographer Eric Valli who has lived in the Dolpo region for nearly two decades. The film was shot on location in Dolpo, Nepal from September 1997 through July 1998. It is the first Nepalese entry to be considered for the Oscar. www.kino.com/himalaya - Myke Komarnitsky
Misc. Updates... Sun May 6 21:11:32 2001
Made some changes to incorrectly labeled routes at Shelf, added about a dozen pictures to the photo album, and linked up a couple of nice pics of Animal World in Boulder Canyon, thanks to Peter Franzen. - Myke Komarnitsky
700+ routes - holy Cow! Fri May 4 10:33:36 2001
Another milestone... made possible by all the badass people who contribute to the site. - Myke Komarnitsky
Royal Robbins Slide Show Wed May 2 18:35:15 2001
ROYAL ROBBINS: Climbs and Climbers I Have Known, a slide presentation. In conjunction with the Access Fund Activists Summit: a gathering of Access Fund staff, board, regional coordinators, and local climbing organizations from around the country.

Friday, May 18 / 8:00 PM / $5.00
Hempel Family Program Building
Estes Park Center/YMCA of the Rockies
2515 Tunnel Road, Estes Park, CO


$5.00 admission fee will go to preserving your climbing freedoms. Membership drive, raffle and silent auction.

Directions to Estes Park Center/YMCA of the Rockies from Denver/Boulder: Take highway 36 west to the town of Estes Park. Turn left on Moraine Ave. (Hwy. 36) and follow to Highway 66. Go left on Hwy. 66 (look for a sign to the YMCA.) The turn-off to the YMCA will be on your right.

For more information, please contact: Shawn Tierney at 303/545-6772 x 105 - Myke Komarnitsky
Shelf Road Coming... Mon Apr 30 16:41:15 2001
Want to get your grubby little hands on ever more beta? Well, a sport climbing paradise down by Colorado Springs, Shelf Road, will soon be coming to the site. The beta at first will be relatively sparse - if you've been there, help us build it up! - Myke Komarnitsky
Chinese Hacker Attack Mon Apr 30 15:22:25 2001
As you may have heard, US and Chinese hackers are busy defacing the other's web sites. Given the strategic importance of our site, we were attacked this morning. Fortunately, because we have our act together server-wise(ie running Linux), they were not able to deface the site or access the system. Below is the log reports.... at 1:10am, a nearby server running Microsoft IIS got a nice new "DeathtoUSA" front page...

szptt61.141.szptt.net.cn - - [30/Apr/2001:00:57:48 -0600] "GET / HTTP/1.1" 200 93 "-" "-"
szptt61.141.szptt.net.cn - - [30/Apr/2001:00:57:58 -0600] "GET /_vti_inf.html HTTP/1.1" 404 297 "-" "-" {PRIME} - Myke Komarnitsky
Image addition, error fixes Sun Apr 29 23:17:57 2001
Added a couple of new front page images, some photos from Mike Morley of him on the Petit in RMNP... also we made some minor changes to the template. Hopefully they'll work in the nightly build. Tommorrow morning - climbing! - Myke Komarnitsky
Log Stats Summary Sun Apr 29 16:28:35 2001
A sample from the site logs... kind of interesting, we definitely bumped up the number of page views this week - normally we run about 2k / day... just can't figure out why we had 7k on Monday - really slow day at work or something?

date: reqs: pages:
---------: ----: -----:
22/Apr/01: 1632: 1203: +++++++++
23/Apr/01: 7609: 6775: ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
24/Apr/01: 4118: 2958: ++++++++++++++++++++
25/Apr/01: 3648: 2762: +++++++++++++++++++
26/Apr/01: 3407: 2644: ++++++++++++++++++
27/Apr/01: 3844: 3372: +++++++++++++++++++++++
28/Apr/01: 2070: 1612: +++++++++++
- Myke Komarnitsky
Security Risk Area is Open Sun Apr 29 16:25:22 2001
Note: Closure lifted. As of 4/24/01 the area covering Upper and Lower Security Risk Crags and Happy Hour Crag, as well as Eagle Rock, Blob Rock and Bitty Buttress are open to access, and have been signed accordingly. Monitoring by the Forest Service has indicated that despite early nesting activity the golden eagles have moved out of the area. The Colorado Division of Wildlife and Roosevelt National Forest thank climbers for their patience. - Myke Komarnitsky
AccessFund: Climber Summit in Estes Sat Apr 28 01:10:52 2001
Access Fund to Host National Climber Activists Summit Climbers to Converge on Estes Park, CO this May

April 26, 2001, Boulder, CO ­ The Access Fund will host a national conference for climber-activists from May 17-19, 2001 at the Estes Park Center in Estes Park, Colorado. The event will unite the organization’s national network of regional coordinators and volunteer activists for several days of workshops, discussion, and debate. Over sixty attendees have been invited to discuss strategies for preserving access, conserving the environment and promoting effective outreach at the grassroots level.

Speakers will include representatives from the Bureau of Land Management and National Park Service, legendary climber and long-time activist Royal Robbins, representatives from various climber organizations, Access Fund volunteers, staff, and others. Issues addressed will include; climbing management plans, land acquisition issues, building effective relationships with land managers, addressing wildlife, vegetation and cultural resource issues, event fundraising, climbing on private land, and tips for motivating climbers.

"The regional coordinator network forms the cornerstone of our support for grassroots climber activism and is one of our primary resources utilized in keeping climbing areas open," said Access Fund Access and Acquisitions Director Shawn Tierney. "The dedicated volunteers who serve as Regional Coordinators are committed to providing climbers with solutions that will preserve America’s diverse climbing resources for future generations. "

The Summit underscores the Access Fund’s commitment to preserving access by investing in the promotion of local grass-roots activism and outreach. The event also provides an excellent forum for volunteer activists from around the country to share the ideas, experience, resources and knowledge needed to preserve climbing access and protect the natural environment. This will be the third such event held by the Access Fund in its eleven-year history.

The Access Fund is a national, non-profit organization dedicated to keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment. The organization works in cooperation with climbers, other recreational users, public land managers and private landowners to promote the responsible use and sound management of climbing resources throughout the United States. The Access Fund encourages an ethic of personal responsibility, self-regulation, strong conservation values and minimum impact practices among climbers. For more information, visit www.accessfund.org.

### - Myke Komarnitsky
ClimbingBoulder V3.0 is Live! Thu Apr 26 18:39:36 2001
Well, here it is. Version 3.0 of the site. We've spent way too much time working on this, and not enough climbing. Hopefully it will be worth it. We tried to catch all the errors, but if you see something drop us a line. Give us your thoughts on the new look - comments, criticisms, suggestions, etc.

Two big differences. One is that the site will be noticably faster. The second is that the site updates nightly. Thus, if you add routes you won't see them posted until the following morning. We'll try to address this soon, but for the time being that's how it is.

All the old content is here, lying around. You may have to search around to find it. There is a lot of new content lying around too, which may be interesting to some of you.

So, a few of the new features: - always-available search box that covers the entire site - super-powerful rock route query engine; you got to just try it out. - Easier to see what's new on the site. - Many more ways of finding the information you want. - Quicker loading pages, all around. - Just generally better looking layout and navigation.

So check it out, tell us what you think, and then go climbing. We sure are.

Myke Komarnitsky Ben Mottinger Kevin Cawley Shaun Miller (in spirit) - Myke Komarnitsky
Major Updates Wed Apr 25 00:31:39 2001
Rock query engine works. secondary navigation are implemented all over the place secondary pages are standardized, and almost completed. predefined query formatting problems solved. presentation materials for saturday are progressing nicely. We're right on schedule. - Myke Komarnitsky
Updates Mon Apr 23 19:12:22 2001
Rock page formatted, nav2 links fixed, and new intro added. Community section with new intro and updated calendar and links. About now has same nav2 look. - Ben Mottinger
Route Query Output Mon Apr 23 11:15:07 2001
Cleaned up the output for queries. Fixed the rating values in the HTML, but the pl still isn't quite right. "Dat boy der ain't quite right, I reckon!" - Ben Mottinger
What's New Section Added Fri Apr 20 20:12:38 2001
It ain't the prettiest of things, so cleaning up the look is a goal. However, all the newest content on the site is located here.

- Myke Komarnitsky
people viewing Fri Apr 20 00:28:08 2001
Covnerted the people viewing pages to be standard looking... - Myke Komarnitsky
ice database Fri Apr 20 00:27:15 2001
Made some progess on this, with the queries built and the database template outputs looking functional. - Myke Komarnitsky
stars issue Fri Apr 20 00:26:11 2001
fixed a stars issue on the route list view form... - Myke Komarnitsky
About sections Thu Apr 19 23:42:18 2001
They're pretty rough right now, but I've started the about us story and technical details about the site. These documents should help for the presentation on the 28th. - Myke Komarnitsky
database maintainance issues Thu Apr 19 23:31:55 2001
Made changes to some route names and ratings that messed up the queries. all good now baby! - Myke Komarnitsky
Calendar Wed Apr 18 12:42:23 2001
Added a calendar to the front page and Community section. Still need make this dynamic like the news. It's HTML only right now. - Ben Mottinger
Working links Wed Apr 18 11:22:19 2001
Pre-defined queries now linked correctly under Rock. Links with content are correct now under Community. A Comm. index page is on its way. - Ben Mottinger
NS/IE woes Wed Apr 18 11:18:35 2001
For some reason, NS does not support the class def. for links A:xxx. I tried to make two versions, where javascript would detect the browser type and send you to the correct one, but NS is so f'ed up, it was writing gibberish to the code from my document.write() statements. eg: it changed STYLE to TTYLE, and added extra tags at the end, and left off closing tags, ie: less-than A greater than. WTF, man? - Ben Mottinger
wireless Wed Apr 18 00:28:25 2001
Wireless database for rock is ready... but could be tweaked more - Myke Komarnitsky
front page image text Wed Apr 18 00:28:01 2001
Modified the table so that links are present... - Myke Komarnitsky
Routefinder wizard script is funcitonal Wed Apr 18 00:27:22 2001
Kevin and I banged this sucker out..... yeehaw. - Myke Komarnitsky
Photo album and route comments Tue Apr 17 01:22:27 2001
Check dis out. Den, check dat out. - Myke Komarnitsky
News is fully functional Tue Apr 17 00:38:11 2001
All this coffee is serving me good.... another task down. - Myke Komarnitsky
One More Test Tue Apr 17 00:37:12 2001
Let's see if I can get it to do what I want it to do. Apologies again. - Myke Komarnitsky
'System test' Tue Apr 17 00:35:29 2001
'Please ignore. System Test.' -
System test Tue Apr 17 00:19:34 2001
Please ignore. System Test. - Myke Komarnitsky
News Function working properly... Tue Apr 17 00:19:03 2001
You can include HTML tags here... - Myke Komarnitsky
Stylesheets incorporated everywhere Tue Apr 17 00:18:22 2001
Yeehaw! We're gettin close... - Myke Komarnitsky
queries are operational Tue Apr 17 00:11:58 2001
Lists are active at /rock/queries. - Myke Komarnitsky
queries are operational Tue Apr 17 00:07:26 2001
Lists are active at /rock/queries. - Myke Komarnitsky
queries are operational Tue Apr 17 00:02:52 2001
Lists are active at _A HREF="/rock/queries/"_/rock/queries_/A_. - Myke Komarnitsky
queries are operational Tue Apr 17 00:02:36 2001
Lists are active at _A HREF="/rock/queries/"_/rock/queries_/A_. - Myke Komarnitsky
Administrative Test - Please Ignore Thu Apr 12 18:44:14 2001
This is a test of our emergency broadcast system. Apologies for the inconvenience. - Myke Komarnitsky
Administrative Test - Please Ignore Thu Apr 12 18:40:39 2001
This is a test of our emergency broadcast system. It's unknown if this will work or not. - Myke Komarnitsky
Administrative Test - Please Ignore Thu Apr 12 18:39:52 2001
This is a test of our emergency broadcast _A HREF="/news/"_system_/A_. It's unknown if this will work or not. - Myke Komarnitsky
Administrative Test - Please Ignore Thu Apr 12 18:37:14 2001
This is a test of our emergency broadcast _A HREF="/news/"_system_/A_. It's unknown if this will work or not. - Myke Komarnitsky
Test New Admin Tools Thu Apr 12 18:35:23 2001
Test 1 - Shaun Miller
Search Engine is working Thu Apr 12 17:59:01 2001
Search engine works now. we may modify it later on to be more refined... - Myke Komarnitsky
Front page is coming along too Tue Apr 10 11:21:35 2001
I like this look that's developing... and there won't be any scrunching over to into the nav bar this time, too! - Myke Komarnitsky
Rock DB Nav is rockin Tue Apr 10 11:21:02 2001
It looks just about bulletproof. next is to think as a team and figure out a few tweaks to really make it look nice. - Myke Komarnitsky
New News Fri Apr 6 15:04:26 2001
Here's the new news - Myke Komarnitsky
Secondary nav for rock dbase functional Thu Apr 5 14:41:46 2001
check out the pulldowns - pretty sweet. stuff to figure out - what about wireless - how does it deal with pulldowns. Also to deal WRT news: shortening long news titles, and implementing also email to climbingboulder-announce. - Myke Komarnitsky
News Is functional Thu Apr 5 14:40:42 2001
The news table is built, we can add to it. However, no html tags yet. Also, it is outputting to the front page properly, both at the top and the bottom. booyeah! - Myke Komarnitsky
Let's add a news bit Thu Apr 5 14:15:24 2001
This is from ben! What a tool. - Ben Mottinger
New News System is Functional Thu Apr 5 01:11:32 2001
Links to down below, template based, added via a web form.... what more could you ask for? Maybe a nice nap.... mmmm that's what I'm giong to take right now. g'night! - Shaun Miller
Another Text Thu Apr 5 00:14:15 2001
Test - Myke Komarnitsky
Test Title Thu Apr 5 00:14:09 2001
Done by Myke - Myke Komarnitsky
Test Title Thu Apr 5 00:13:24 2001
Done by Myke - Myke Komarnitsky


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By constance depew
Apr 19, 2013

Well, just wanted to compliment being able to see some mountains we remember working and living around in ak; sorry we're not climbers; sorry this is exclusive; thanx anyway!cd, jd


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