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Old Castle Crag is one of the finer and lesser-known climbing areas in north county San Diego. Rock type is bomber orange San Diego granite, some similar attributes as Mission trails but probably more similar quality to El Cajon Mountain. Primarily a traditional climbing area with loads of splitter lines. Some recent sport development has been done. Cliff is south facing so, it gets a lot of sun year around. Definitely gets warm during summer months but cools off nice in late afternoon.
From the I-15, exit Gopher Canyon/Oldcastle Road. Follow Old castle Road approximately 1 mile east, until road starts to wind uphill. Cliff will be located on the hillside to your left, north side of Old Castle Rd. Before the road starts to go uphill you will see a call box located on the left side of the street, north side of Old castle Road. It is possible to park at this turnout or anywhere along the side of the road in this vicinity. From call box turnout follow unmarked trail 200 yards uphill to a large dirt lot/pad. From here a decent established trail switchbacks up the main weakness taking you to the right of the cliff, follow Karnes, do not trundled down ravines.
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Samsara Roof 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a CA : San Diego County : ... : Main Wall AKA The Gorilla H...
Samsara Roof is the classic Old Castle roof crack test piece.Boulder problem off of central ledge gets you into this stellar overhanging finger crack. The crux is definitely pulling the lip of roof but another ankle busting crux occurs after roof, pulling into Conception. ...[more] Browse More Classics in CA
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