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Old Castle

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Dihedral Wall, The 
Lions Den, The 
Main Wall AKA The Gorilla Head Buttress.  
Old Castle Bouldering 
Ribbon of Rock Crag 
Slabs, The 
Wild Wild West, The 

Old Castle  


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Location: 33.2525, -117.12329 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 12,090
Administrators: Marc Kajut, M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Joshua Reinig on Apr 1, 2014
Forecast:
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Chris Norwood rappelling into the sunset!

  • This great North County Crag is located on the boundary of partial lots for sale, private property and public land. MORE INFO >>>
  • Current San Diego County Advisories MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    Old Castle Crag is one of the finer and lesser-known climbing areas in north county San Diego. Rock type is bomber orange San Diego granite, some similar attributes as Mission trails but probably more similar quality to El Cajon Mountain. Primarily a traditional climbing area with loads of splitter lines. Some recent sport development has been done. Cliff is south facing with little shade and gets a lot of sun year around. Definitely gets warm during summer months but cools off nice in late afternoon.

    Getting There 

    From the I-15, exit Gopher Canyon/Oldcastle Road. Follow Old castle Road approximately 1 mile east, until road starts to wind uphill. Cliff will be located on the hillside to your left, north side of Old Castle Rd. Before the road starts to go uphill you will see a call box located on the left side of the street, north side of Old castle Road. It is possible to park at this turnout or anywhere along the side of the road in this vicinity. From call box turnout follow unmarked trail 200 yards uphill to a large dirt lot/pad. From here a decent established trail switchbacks up the main weakness taking you to the right of the cliff, follow Karnes, do not trundled down ravines.
    Somewhere in this vicinity lies the legendary and infamous Steve McQueen Boulder!!!

    Climbing Season



    Weather station 5.7 miles from here

    38 Total Routes

    ['4 Stars',5],['3 Stars',22],['2 Stars',11],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
    ['<=5.6',2],['5.7',4],['5.8',4],['5.9',5],['5.10',9],['5.11',5],['5.12',4],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',1],['V2-3',3],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',1],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

    The Classics

    Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Old Castle:
    Indian Cave Traverse   V5-6 6C+     Boulder, 4'   The Steve McQueen Cirque : The Indian Cave Boulder
    The Transmigration Dihedral   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   The Dihedral Wall
    Browse More Classics in Old Castle

    Featured Route For Old Castle
    Projecting The Bodhisattva!

    Bodhisattva ArÍte 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b CA : San Diego County : ... : Main Wall AKA The Gorilla H...
    One of the best ArÍtes around. The Bodhisattva is the most obvious, inspiring, proudest, line that exists at Old Castle. The whole route is pretty sustained and steep, starting out at 5.10 and continually getting more difficult toward the top around 11b. The crux comes at the last sequence as you crank off the hold Dubbed "The Shark Tooth", to a grim V6 Move to Jugs. Blow it here on lead and you will take the 30 footer of your life, as your last good pro is a solid 15 plus feet below you. :)...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

    Local Information for Old Castle
    Photos of Old Castle Slideshow Add Photo
    10 years ago I planted a fig in a crack.  Tera-for...
    10 years ago I planted a fig in a crack. Tera-for...
    1976 climbing pic of Old Caslte Crag.
    1976 climbing pic of Old Caslte Crag.
    Dead Bat!
    Dead Bat!
    Transcending into The Central Cave!
    Transcending into The Central Cave!
    West side crag descent looking at Steve McQueen Ci...
    BETA PHOTO: West side crag descent looking at Steve McQueen Ci...
    Classic Old Castle!
    Classic Old Castle!

    Comments on Old Castle Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Adam Stackhouse
    Administrator
    Apr 2, 2014
    In the early 90s we did a couple of plumb lines just right of center on the main face. At the top were several pitons and if I remember correctly some chains.
    By Joshua Reinig
    Apr 2, 2014
    Such a plum line would be Conception!!!
    The pitons and chains are still there. I'm sure I know of the other lines you guys must have climbed And definitely found some older hardware from yesteryearr!!!
    By Joshua Reinig
    Apr 2, 2014
    Adam any old photos or Contributions to this area are always greatly appreciated. Have had the pleasure of calling this my local climbing crag for sometime now and definitely took a lot of time energy and thought to get it to the point to where I felt it was ready to share with the community.
    Thanks again for all of your help. :)
    By dave wave
    Apr 15, 2014
    If you go climbing in this area, do what you can to keep a low profile, and do your part to leave this area clean. Up until now this has been an "invite only" area for the reasons stated above...so don't be the one to fuck it up for everyone else!