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Old but Never been used rope

Original Post
757wakeboarder · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 0

I'm looking for some advice about some climbing rope I was recently given. A close friend of mine that I have known for about 10 years and is my next door neighbor had a spool that had 600 feet of climbing rope on it. He gave it to me, it has NEVER been used, however he purchased it in 1998. He bought it and put it on a shelf located at the front of his garage and ended up not using it. He had intentions of using it due to being Special Forces but didn't. His garage is a relatively clean environment but I went ahead and removed the first layer of rope (about 130 feet) because he does have motorcycles that he very occasionally starts up in the garage. Should I ever use this rope to climb? I do mostly top roping. Rope is 7/16 blue water, very nice stuff. Even feels brand new, for sure has never been taken off the spool and I made sure that it's never gotten wet or been exposed to anything obviously bad (he is familiar enough with it that he knows it's never been damaged).

Gary Dunn · · Baltimore · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 35

From the Bluewater site- How long will my rope last?

The answer to this is the same for a new car. You can total it right off the lot or you can get years of service from it. It all depends upon the user. Our recommendation is 5 years max for dynamic ropes and 10 years max for low elongation/ static ropes. The fact it is measured as 7/16 means it is probably a static rope. Dynamics are generally measured in MM.

I personally would not use it in a situation where my life or bodily injury was on the line...

Locker · · Yucca Valley, CA · Joined Oct 2002 · Points: 2,349

It's a common known fact that after five years ALL dynamic ropes MELT and become useless.

Mark Pilate · · MN · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 25

Based on your post name, I'm going to recommned you pre-soak that rope in a mixture of powdered glass and H2SO4 prior to rapping off a tall cliff....(I am one who only uses the center pylon, if you get my drift)

Assuming you do not take me up on my advice however, you are good to go. I have (had) the same spool from my days in the Army and my spool is older. Don't worry about it. Although I assume you will use it for rapps and anchors, not climbing on.

And just stay off the freakin water at least in the early mornings and late evenings! :)

Airwoolf · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2013 · Points: 5

As long s we are on the subject of old ropes.

I have a 10.5 mm Sterling rope that is like brand new. I've
used it for toproping outdoor in the Midwest
maybe
20 times. Since then I have taken a 10 year hiatus.
So the rope is about 11 years old and has been stored in a container.
I've checked and it is still like brand new. To me it looks and feels safe.
I have checked it thoroughly.
Is there a shelf life on dynamic ropes?
Or could it still be used for toproping or leading
Sport climbs.

Sorry for being a thread thief.

Mark Pilate · · MN · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 25

Man, how often does this question come up??

Old ropes are best used for auto-erotic strangulation.
(PM Sir Chips-a lot for rigging instructions)

but otherwise you can TR on them as long as they pass "inspection"

Chris D · · the couch · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 2,230

Considering that you can usually find a fine new climbing rope on sale for a little over $100, why not just drop the coin and not worry about it?

Perhaps the manufacturer is erring on the side of caution to avoid litigation with their 5yr/10yr recommendation for retiring rope, but what's peace of mind worth?

That rope is at least 15 years old, right? Might be totally safe to climb on, who knows? But that's the point.

You can start the clock on the rope you buy today as soon as you buy it. In five years, it'll be beat up enough that you'll be ready to retire it anyway...or you're not climbing enough.

Taylor J · · Taos NM · Joined Nov 2010 · Points: 390

I would never buy or use and old or used rope I knew nothing about... Why risk it when you can get pretty good deals online....

Taylor J · · Taos NM · Joined Nov 2010 · Points: 390

oh and yes they have a shelf life... even if the rope has just sat they say after 5 or 6 years it looses its elasticity and cant absorb the impact from a fall, thus breaking far easier.... Just buy a rope

bearbreeder · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 3,065
taylor januskiewiecz wrote:oh and yes they have a shelf life... even if the rope has just sat they say after 5 or 6 years it looses its elasticity and cant absorb the impact from a fall, thus breaking far easier.... Just buy a rope
mmmmmm

theuiaa.org/upload_area/fil…

;)
Woodchuck ATC · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 3,280
bearbreeder wrote: mmmmmm theuiaa.org/upload_area/fil… ;)
haven't we seen and discussed this article before? It is 13 years old and maybe there is some new research out by now on the shelf life of ropes. I still believe the rope companies just want to cover their ass and sell more ropes. Believe a well stored rope has a very long rope life, much more than just 3-4 years.
5.samadhi Süñyātá · · asheville · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 40

I've taken whippers on 10+ year old ropes and they are soft. They are all somewhat short though being around 50m or less since the ends have been chopped off multiple times (where most of the wear occurs).

Watch the ends when lowering!

J A · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2006 · Points: 45

I came into two very old (at least 15 years old) but never used ropes. They are both much stretchier than what I am used to and I have been using ropes from many differnent manufacturers. I don't know if the stretchiness is from age or if thats just the way they were made. I haven't used either for leading yet and I am not sure I will.

757wakeboarder · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 0

I know all of the ropes history...I just gave it to you above. Like I said, the guy I got it from is one of my best friends. Spent 10 years in Special Forces and bought it for that but never used it. I've known and lived next to him for about 10 years and have personally seen that it has never left the shelf in the garage. Forgive me, I'm new to this site, I found this specifically for the purpose of asking this question. I'm trying to pay my way through college, no way I can afford a rope. It's a dynamic rope.

Mark Pilate · · MN · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 25

Wakeboarder - Just to double check, how do you know its a dynamic rope? Like I said, I likely have same 600 ft spool of Bluewater rope for similar reasons. Mine was black 7/16" static line. I did a fair amount of military climbing but my dynamics were never off a spool.

If you've read the label, specs, etc and know 100% then OK. I don't mean to imply you're a dumbass, just that you said you are new to this site thus might be relatively new to climbing as well.

bearbreeder · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 3,065
Woodchuck ATC wrote: haven't we seen and discussed this article before? It is 13 years old and maybe there is some new research out by now on the shelf life of ropes. I still believe the rope companies just want to cover their ass and sell more ropes. Believe a well stored rope has a very long rope life, much more than just 3-4 years.
if anything ropes are getting "better" all the time ... which is why all these skinny singles are so popular these days

as long the rope feels good, has no unusual wear/soft spots, and hasnt been exposed to chemicals or long term UV ... itll be fine for TRing

of course for leading usage leads to loss of elasticity which can pose other problems

heres an old accident report by the swedish climbing association



several possible causes
- the rope was inelastic ... due to age/use
- the rope wrapped around the belayers arm and gave a "static belay" ... i guess they mean - that there wasnt any real slippage through the device
- poor piece placement or walking

of course thats al theory and guessing

klatterforbundet.se/pdf/sak…
George Bracksieck · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2008 · Points: 3,393

To protect their butts and sell more ropes, rope manufacturers spew short recommended life spans. Blue Water's recommended life span of 5 years for a dynamic and 10 years for a static is assuming "normal use," whatever that is. If you don't take big falls or lots of little falls on the same end of the rope — or expose it to acid or organic solvents — a rope could be safe to use for a lot longer. Storage in a cool, dark, dry, airtight place would be the best and could make a rope be useful for decades — depending on how it is used while climbing. I quit using mine, or cut off the damaged section, when the core starts to show, or if there's a really flat spot. Your 7/16" rope should be a lot more durable than any of the skinny singles in use nowadays.

Mark E Dixon · · Possunt, nec posse videntur · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 974
757wakeboarder wrote:I know all of the ropes history...I just gave it to you above. Like I said, the guy I got it from is one of my best friends. Spent 10 years in Special Forces and bought it for that but never used it. I've known and lived next to him for about 10 years and have personally seen that it has never left the shelf in the garage. Forgive me, I'm new to this site, I found this specifically for the purpose of asking this question. I'm trying to pay my way through college, no way I can afford a rope. It's a dynamic rope.
I wouldn't take any of these replies personally. Stick around a while and you'll see that everyone gets a hard time about everything.

The old rope question comes up often. Many of us old timers would be happy to use an old rope like yours (assuming no chemical damage) and many folks won't. There's no definitive answer.

I do agree with Mark P that the static/dynamic distinction is crucial. Dynamic rope on a spool is a little unusual but not unheard of. Personally I wouldn't want to use static even for toproping, much less leading.
Airwoolf · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2013 · Points: 5

Thanks folks. I felt personally that I should replace the
Rope because it has been so long.
On the other hand my wife keeps giving me intimidating looks
Everytime a new package arrives in the mail.
Oh well.
A new rope it is.

Mark Pilate · · MN · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 25

I have found that wives are a greater risk to your personal well being than climbing on an old rope

5.samadhi Süñyātá · · asheville · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 40
Mark Pilate wrote:Wakeboarder - Just to double check, how do you know its a dynamic rope? Like I said, I likely have same 600 ft spool of Bluewater rope for similar reasons. Mine was black 7/16" static line. I did a fair amount of military climbing but my dynamics were never off a spool. If you've read the label, specs, etc and know 100% then OK. I don't mean to imply you're a dumbass, just that you said you are new to this site thus might be relatively new to climbing as well.
have you ever held a dynamic rope? Have you ever held a static rope? Its not that hard to find out which it is!
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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