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Pine Canyon
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Anchors From Hell 
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Old Bushmills 
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Old Bushmills 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Kent Wheeler
Page Views: 2,596
Submitted By: Louis Arevalo on Oct 13, 2003
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thin hands on old bushmills

Description 

Thin fingers lead to bad sized hand/finger 1.5 friends. Small pockets allow stances for gear placements. Catch your breath halfway up and finish tight hands to the anchors 2 friends.


Protection 

Many .75 camalots or 1.5 friends for the bottom half, then 2 friends for the top. The top seems to be between .75-1 camalots. Round it out with a couple of tcu's for the beginning.



Photos of Old Bushmills Slideshow Add Photo
pumping out of the thin hands on old bushmills
pumping out of the thin hands on old bushmills
Deaun at a rest stem on Old Bushmills.
Deaun at a rest stem on Old Bushmills.
Mitch Hogsett climbing Old Bushmills in 2005.
Mitch Hogsett climbing Old Bushmills in 2005.
Dragan
Dragan
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By Louis Arevalo
Oct 16, 2003

This route is 2 cracks right of Lite Not Solid. It is a wide dihedral in beautiful varnished sandstone.

By John Stoddard
May 2, 2005
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b

A beautiful, continuous corner - as striking as anything at Indian Creek. Take lots of purple through red Camalot sizes. Hard 5.10 for the leader, as it's really strenuous to stop and place gear... the "small pockets" didn't do much for me!! Not so bad to follow, as you can just motor on through.

By James Garrett
Feb 28, 2006

Actually Rabid Muslims and Old Bushmills were both climbed by Dave Anderson. He didn't want the Swell to be in guidebooks and he didn't want any recognition...but he was awesome.

By Brendan N. (grayhghost)
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Mar 23, 2011

a great climb. tricky thin feet at the beginning lead to steep thin hands at the top.