Old Bolt Route
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A fun top rope except that you need two ropes. This thing's always in the sun and has a cave up high with nesting raptors. So no climbing form Feb 1st through June 30th. You follow an ancient bolt ladder up a steep section of wall. Fun moves and really long and sustained. The crux comes when exiting the cave near the top. Don't trust the bolts for leading though they still seem to be good for aiding. If you aid it, bring a stick clip. There's a few missing bolts. Scramble around the back side of the rock to reach the anchors. Usually done after toping out on the Cave Route.
On the far right steep South facing side of the Rock of Ages. The approach takes 45min from the car, but 6 good routes are in the immediate area.
|Comments on Old Bolt Route
Aug 24, 2012
Every third bolt or so looks to be new. Has anybody led this? I'm thinking about it.
From: Vacaville Ca.
Feb 3, 2013
Just lead this thing today. One of the scariest routes I've ever lead. I kept thinking what dumbass bolted this thing like this and it hit me about 3/4 of the way up. Somebody just replaced some of the "aid ladder" bolts to make the "aid" safer. There are about 8 bolts in 155 ft of climbing so almost every clip you're looking at a 40 ft whipper. If you blow the third clip you'll deck from about 35 ft.
DO NOT LEAD THIS ROUTE IN IT'S CURRENT CONDITION
I'm thinking about moving some of the bolts and adding several to make this a quality sport route. Fukk the aid ladder thing, why would anyone want to bother aiding that? Who knows when I'll actually do it though.