After having been closed to climbing for several years, Old Baldy is open again, thanks to the efforts of Toronto Section's Access Committee. An agreement is in place with the Grey Sauble Region to allow climbing to take place at Old Baldy. The agreement requires climbers to purchase an annual climbing permit and abide by strict methodologies adopted to minimize environmental impact. To obtain your permit you will need to fax or mail an application to the Grey Sauble Conservation Authority. A copy of the permit application form is available on-line.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
Located in Beaver Valley, perched high above the small town of Kimberly.
Old Baldy is one of the best sport-climbing areas south of the Bruce Peninsula; there is a good selection of bolted routes on sound rock, and there are fine views across the Beaver Valley. The cliff receives plenty of afternoon sunshine, making it climbable even fairly early in the season.
When climbing at Old Baldy, please do not use the trees at the top of the crag as belays or rappel anchors. These trees are mostly old-growth cedars and are an irreplacable part of our environmental heritage. All climbs have been equipped with bolt anchors. The anchors, however, are not accessible from the top of the cliff, which means that someone in your party has to be able to lead your route.
This is a lead climbing area, NOT a top roping area.
From Kimberly, take your first right (dirt road) as you exit town. This road is steep and relatively unmaintained. Follow to the top of the hill. Turn right when the road splits. Park against the tree line. Hike the Bruce trail keeping right along the cliff edge until the trail descends down to the base of the cliff band.
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Old Baldy :