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Old Baldy
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Old Baldy  


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Submitted By: MikePenney on Aug 15, 2011

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Solid Goldie

Description 

Located in Beaver Valley, perched high above the small town of Kimberly.

Old Baldy is one of the best sport-climbing areas south of the Bruce Peninsula; there is a good selection of bolted routes on sound rock, and there are fine views across the Beaver Valley. The cliff receives plenty of afternoon sunshine, making it climbable even fairly early in the season.

When climbing at Old Baldy, please do not use the trees at the top of the crag as belays or rappel anchors. These trees are mostly old-growth cedars and are an irreplacable part of our environmental heritage. All climbs have been equipped with bolt anchors. The anchors, however, are not accessible from the top of the cliff, which means that someone in your party has to be able to lead your route.

This is a lead climbing area, NOT a top roping area.


Getting There 

From Kimberly, take your first right (dirt road) as you exit town. This road is steep and relatively unmaintained. Follow to the top of the hill. Turn right when the road splits. Park against the tree line. Hike the Bruce trail keeping right along the cliff edge until the trail descends down to the base of the cliff band.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Old Baldy :
Death by Lougin    5.10c     Sport, 65 feet   Scimitar Pinnacle
Solid Goldie    5.11a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet   Air Jamaica Wall
Conan   5.11d     Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet   Black Forest Wall
French Revolution    5.12a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet   Black Forest Wall
Browse More Classics in Old Baldy

Featured Route For Old Baldy
Working out the crux.

French Revolution 5.12a  International : Canada : ... : Black Forest Wall
Climb overhanging face past bolts and two pitons to anchors. Tricky Crux! ...[more]   Browse More Classics in International