Old and In the Way... where to start? Might as well be at the first bolt. The first bolt is tricky and delicate to clip, that big chalked up rail is sadly not as good as it looks. Holding on with one hand with grim feet is a challenge.
But the action starts right after you make the clip! Those grim holds get worse as you move up, feet are surprisingly tough to come by and the holds above are small and distressingly far.
I'll come clean. I led this climb, but it wasn't clean. I A-Zeroed the crux by pulling on the first draw. The old guide says .11c, but I couldn't pull the move so I'm speculating with the .11c. The rest of the climb is much easier, maybe mid .10 with a fun mantle move on the blob at the 3rd bolt.
Very different in character from the other crag .11c Beast of Burden.
Right of the chimney in the center of the crag, first route right of Black Hole Sun. Left of Bear's Choice.
|Comments on Old And In The Way
From: Sebastopol, CA
May 14, 2008
It's not THAT hard. One Crimp and its over. 5.11b.
The climb is the second route RIGHT of the chimney, between Black Hole Sun and Bear's Choice, in other words: RIGHT of BHS and LEFT of Bear's Choice.
From: Oakland CA
May 15, 2008
Thanks Jerry, I changed the description a bit, don't know why I forgot my right from my left there.
.11b? Couldn't you at least be a little charitable and give me .11c, or at least .11b+? I'm going to have to stop climbing up there, my ego just can't take the smackdown!
Apr 2, 2012
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c
The crux is only two moves short. The crimps are small but sharp. Soft 5.11 I say. The rest of the route is much easier - but very enjoyable! I found no chalk marks and a loose hold.
From: Petaluma California
Dec 28, 2012
I finally did this with Jerry's beta from Jonathan. I suppose this might feel like a soft 11 to someone accustomed to 10 ft routes on the damp side of a boulder. For me, the first bit is harder than anything on stone free or the other 12As on the cliff. But I'm an endurance climber.