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Me leading Ol Red
A beautiful small hands crack that is left facing for the first half of the climb than right facing for the second half. In the middle there is a good rest on a jam undercling, than the crux comes at the direction change of the crack after the rest. Classic!
This is the last good route before the wall bends to the North. At the bend there is a fin of rock jutting Southwest, this climb is about 30 feet to the right of this fin and is hard to miss if you have read the description.
There are two trees above for top-roping,
If you are feeling bold the crack will take gear but the last third of the climb is dirty choss and would be difficult or impossible to protect. Though the climbing eases up there, possibly 5.6-5.7.
Cams where tested with up to 6 foot lead falls and even marginal placements held just fine.
BETA PHOTO: Casey nabbing the FA
Casey getting his lead on