Mountain Project: Climbing Oklahoma

Central States Climbing Heaven. Most climbers are surprised to learn that Oklahoma has granite, and then that it is high quality, they are even more stunned. Quartz Mountain is a great tune up for Yosemite. The Wichita Wildlife Refuge has stunning splitters with top notch granite. Robbers Cave and others spots exist as well.

Getting There

Wichitas and Quartz are south central, while Robbers and others are on the east side.

Guidebook

Oklahoma Select "A Climber's Guide" is available at Sharpend books. In this 2004 guide book author Tony Mayse covers the best routes at Quartz Mountain and the Wichita Mountains Wildlife Refuge.

CLICK HERE TO ORDER YOUR OWN COPY

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Oklahoma:

Pride of the Jungle V3 Boulder Pear and Apple (Bouldering) : Jungle Boulders

Great Expectations 5.5 Trad, 1 pitch Charon's Gardens : Elk Slabs

The Dihedral 5.6 Trad, TR, 60 feet The Narrows : Zoo Wall

The Hobbit 5.7 Trad, 200 feet Quartz Mountain : Sea of Screams

Ker Plunk 5.7 Trad, 2 pitches, 100 feet The Narrows : Lichen Wall

Water Streak 5.7 X Trad, 2 pitches, 120 feet Charon's Gardens : Elk Slabs

High Anxiety 5.7 Trad, 1 pitch, 75 feet Mount Scott : Lower Mount Scott

Crazy Alice 5.8 Trad, 60 feet The Narrows : Zoo Wall

Mr. Clean 5.8 Trad, 1 pitch, 65 feet Mount Scott : Lower Mount Scott

S-Wall 5.9 R Sport, 2 pitches, 220 feet Quartz Mountain : Snakes Head / S Wall

Foolish Behavior 5.9+ PG13 Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet Mount Scott : Upper Mount Scott

Amazon Woman 5.10a/b Trad, 1 pitch, 130 feet Quartz Mountain : South America

Dr. Coolhead 5.10d X Trad, TR, 60 feet The Narrows : Zoo Wall

Spaceballs 5.11a Sport The Narrows : Lichen Wall

Layaway Plan 5.11a/b Sport, 60 feet Mount Scott : Lower Mount Scott

Aerial Anticipation 5.11c Sport, 60 feet The Narrows : Aerial Anticipation

League of Doom 5.11c R Trad, 2 pitches The Narrows : Lichen Wall

Rap Bolters from Hell 5.12a Sport, 1 pitch, 75 feet Charon's Gardens : Lost Dome

Lost My Religion 5.12a Trad, Sport, 1 pitch Charon's Gardens : Lost Dome

Tied to the Whipping Post 5.13a Sport, 1 pitch, 75 feet Charon's Gardens : Lost Dome

Comments on Oklahoma

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By Tony Mayse
Aug 8, 2007

Oklahoma Select "A Climber's Guide" is available at Sharpend books. The 2004 guide book covers the best routes at Quartz Mountain and the Wichita Mountains Wildlife Refuge. Guide book author Tony Mayse.

By PatG
From: Tulsa,Ok
Apr 30, 2008

Checkin out four rooms tomorrow. Its located in Owasso, never been there before hear it has a lot of sick roofs.

By dolly
Aug 9, 2008

Believe it or not, Oklahoma has rock climbing. Not just any rock climbing, but rocks that are known for developing climbers that are making names for themselves. One thing climbers love is a little friendly competition, and Rocktown Climbing Gym in downtown Oklahoma City will host the Flashpoint Climbing Competition on Saturday.
---------------
Dolly

By jake w
From: black hawk, sd
Dec 13, 2009

Hey I am from South Dakota and moving to Wichita, KS sometime in August. I was wondering how for all these areas are from Wichita?
Or just in general, how far the nearest areas are from Wichita?
Thanks much!
-Jake Whittle

By EPotter
Dec 18, 2009

There is bouldering along the river in Tulsa (170 miles). Wichita Mountains are 250 miles, around 4 hours. Quartz Mountain and Robbers Cave are each about 300 miles, according to maps. "A Climbers Guide" is a good reference. In Wichita there are several good climbing walls. Three of the YMCAs and some fitness clubs have good walls. Kansas Cliff Club, in south Wichita, is the only climbing specific location with indoor and outdoor routes. Welcome to Wichita!

By Fred Knapp
Apr 29, 2010

The new Oklahoma Select: A Climber's Guide, 2nd Edition by Tony Mayse is now available. The new guide, updated for 2010, includes a color signature and new info. It is available at mountain shops and the Wichita Mountain Wildlife Refuge or from Sharp End Publishing at www.sharpendbooks.com
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By Brabjames79
Jun 30, 2011

Wichita Mountains Wildlife Refuge taken around April 1, 2011. Hope y'all can have some fun with this sport
Submitted By: Brabjames79 on Jun 30, 2011

By Eero46
Feb 19, 2012

is there a good bouldering guide for OK?

By Evan Small
From: OK
Mar 11, 2012

Networking with climbers in different areas is about the only guide OK offers sadly. I imagine as it becomes more popular, and more areas like the wichita's become developed for bouldering the possibility for a book could arise. Don't see that being anytime soon though.

By Drew Nevius
From: Oklahoma
Jun 27, 2012

For bouldering, the 27 crags may be helpful. WMWR, Avery Drive, and Zen Pen are all on there. MP probably has more info on Zen Pen though.

27crags.com/crags/wichita-mountains-wildlife-refuge-wmwr

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Oklahoma

Description

Getting There

Guidebook

The Classics