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Oklahoma
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Wichita Wildlife Refuge 
Zen Pen 

Oklahoma 


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Location: 35.6037, -97.5586 View Map  Incorrect?
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Administrator: Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Craig Childre on Aug 30, 2006
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Description 

Central States Climbing Heaven. Most climbers are surprised to learn that Oklahoma has granite, and then that it is high quality, they are even more stunned. Quartz Mountain is a great tune up for Yosemite. The Wichita Wildlife Refuge has stunning splitters with top notch granite. Robbers Cave and others spots exist as well.


Getting There 

Wichitas and Quartz are south central, while Robbers and others are on the east side.


Guidebook 

Oklahoma Select "A Climber's Guide" is available at Sharpend books. In this 2004 guide book author Tony Mayse covers the best routes at Quartz Mountain and the Wichita Mountains Wildlife Refuge.

CLICK HERE TO ORDER YOUR OWN COPY


591 Total Routes


['4 Stars',55],['3 Stars',181],['2 Stars',144],['1 Star',51],['Bomb',1]
['<=5.6',53],['5.7',46],['5.8',67],['5.9',83],['5.10',110],['5.11',57],['5.12',26],['5.13',6],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',16],['V2-3',54],['V4-5',33],['V6-7',18],['V8-9',12],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',1],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Oklahoma:
One Hit Wonder   V2 5+     Boulder   Charon's Gardens : Wapiti Bouldering
Snakes Head   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a X     Trad, 150'   Quartz Mountain : Snakes Head / S Wall
Great Expectations   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad, 1 pitch   Charon's Gardens : Elk Slabs
The Dihedral   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, TR, 60'   The Narrows : Zoo Wall
High Anxiety   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 75'   Mount Scott : Lower Mount Scott
Water Streak   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X     Trad, 2 pitches, 120'   Charon's Gardens : Elk Slabs
Ker Plunk   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 2 pitches, 100'   The Narrows : Lichen Wall
The Hobbit   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 200'   Quartz Mountain : Sea of Screams
Crazy Alice   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 60'   The Narrows : Zoo Wall
Mr. Clean   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 65'   Mount Scott : Lower Mount Scott
S-Wall   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R     Sport, 2 pitches, 220'   Quartz Mountain : Snakes Head / S Wall
Foolish Behavior   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   Mount Scott : Upper Mount Scott
Amazon Woman   5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 130'   Quartz Mountain : South America
Dr. Coolhead   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b X     Trad, TR, 60'   The Narrows : Zoo Wall
Spaceballs   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport   The Narrows : Lichen Wall
Layaway Plan   5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 60'   Mount Scott : Lower Mount Scott
Aerial Anticipation   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 60'   The Narrows : Aerial Anticipation
League of Doom   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R     Trad, 2 pitches   The Narrows : Lichen Wall
Rap Bolters from Hell   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 75'   Charon's Gardens : Lost Dome
Tied to the Whipping Post   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c     Sport, 1 pitch, 75'   Charon's Gardens : Lost Dome
Browse More Classics in Oklahoma

Featured Route For Oklahoma
Right before the roof (crux).

Mr. Clean 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c  OK : Wichita Wildlife Refuge : ... : Lower Mount Scott
Mr. Clean is just that, clean. This corner protects well with good movement for 50 feet and then comes a fun little roof. This was actually my first trad lead and I still can't get enough of it, absolutely one of my favorite routes in the Refuge. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in OK

Comments on Oklahoma Add Comment
Show which comments
By Tony Mayse
Aug 8, 2007

Oklahoma Select "A Climber's Guide" is available at Sharpend books. The 2004 guide book covers the best routes at Quartz Mountain and the Wichita Mountains Wildlife Refuge. Guide book author Tony Mayse.

By PatG
From: Tulsa,Ok
Apr 30, 2008

Checkin out four rooms tomorrow. Its located in Owasso, never been there before hear it has a lot of sick roofs.

By dolly
Aug 9, 2008

Believe it or not, Oklahoma has rock climbing. Not just any rock climbing, but rocks that are known for developing climbers that are making names for themselves. One thing climbers love is a little friendly competition, and Rocktown Climbing Gym in downtown Oklahoma City will host the Flashpoint Climbing Competition on Saturday.
---------------
Dolly

By jake w
From: black hawk, sd
Dec 13, 2009

Hey I am from South Dakota and moving to Wichita, KS sometime in August. I was wondering how for all these areas are from Wichita?
Or just in general, how far the nearest areas are from Wichita?
Thanks much!
-Jake Whittle

By EPotter
Dec 18, 2009

There is bouldering along the river in Tulsa (170 miles). Wichita Mountains are 250 miles, around 4 hours. Quartz Mountain and Robbers Cave are each about 300 miles, according to maps. "A Climbers Guide" is a good reference. In Wichita there are several good climbing walls. Three of the YMCAs and some fitness clubs have good walls. Kansas Cliff Club, in south Wichita, is the only climbing specific location with indoor and outdoor routes. Welcome to Wichita!

By Fred Knapp
Apr 29, 2010

The new Oklahoma Select: A Climber's Guide, 2nd Edition by Tony Mayse is now available. The new guide, updated for 2010, includes a color signature and new info. It is available at mountain shops and the Wichita Mountain Wildlife Refuge or from Sharp End Publishing at www.sharpendbooks.com
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By Brabjames79
Jun 30, 2011

Wichita Mountains Wildlife Refuge taken around April 1, 2011. Hope y'all can have some fun with this sport
Wichita Mountains Wildlife Refuge taken around April 1, 2011. Hope y'all can have some fun with this sport

By Eero46
Feb 19, 2012

is there a good bouldering guide for OK?

By Evan Small
From: OK
Mar 11, 2012

Networking with climbers in different areas is about the only guide OK offers sadly. I imagine as it becomes more popular, and more areas like the wichita's become developed for bouldering the possibility for a book could arise. Don't see that being anytime soon though.

By Drew Nevius
From: Oklahoma
Jun 27, 2012

For bouldering, the 27 crags may be helpful. WMWR, Avery Drive, and Zen Pen are all on there. MP probably has more info on Zen Pen though.

27crags.com/crags/wichita-mountains-wildlife-refuge-wmwr