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DescriptionCentral States Climbing Heaven. Most climbers are surprised to learn that Oklahoma has granite, and then that it is high quality, they are even more stunned. Quartz Mountain is a great tune up for Yosemite. The Wichita Wildlife Refuge has stunning splitters with top notch granite. Robbers Cave and others spots exist as well. Getting ThereWichitas and Quartz are south central, while Robbers and others are on the east side. GuidebookOklahoma Select "A Climber's Guide" is available at Sharpend books. In this 2004 guide book author Tony Mayse covers the best routes at Quartz Mountain and the Wichita Mountains Wildlife Refuge. The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Oklahoma:
Great Expectations 5.5 Trad, 1 pitch Charon's Gardens : Elk Slabs
The Dihedral 5.6 Trad, TR, 60 feet The Narrows : Zoo Wall
The Hobbit 5.7 Trad, 200 feet Quartz Mountain : Sea of Screams
High Anxiety 5.7 Trad, 1 pitch, 75 feet Mount Scott : Lower Mount Scott
Ker Plunk 5.7 Trad, 2 pitches, 100 feet The Narrows : Lichen Wall
Bourbon Street 5.8 PG13 Trad, 150 feet Quartz Mountain : Snakes Head / S Wall
Mr. Clean 5.8 Trad, 1 pitch, 65 feet Mount Scott : Lower Mount Scott
Fantasy Roof 5.8 Trad, TR, 45 feet The Narrows : Zoo Wall
Crazy Alice 5.8 Trad, 60 feet The Narrows : Zoo Wall
For A Rocker 5.8+ Trad, 1 pitch Charon's Gardens : Lost Dome
S-Wall 5.9 R Sport, 2 pitches, 220 feet Quartz Mountain : Snakes Head / S Wall
Foolish Behavior 5.9+ PG13 Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet Mount Scott : Upper Mount Scott
Come and Get Your Love 5.10a Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet Charon's Gardens : Lost Dome
Dr. Coolhead 5.10d X Trad, TR, 60 feet The Narrows : Zoo Wall
Layaway Plan 5.11a/b Sport, 60 feet Mount Scott : Lower Mount Scott
Slime of the Century 5.11 Sport, 1 pitch Charon's Gardens : Lost Dome
Aerial Anticipation 5.11c Sport, 60 feet The Narrows : Aerial Anticipation
League of Doom 5.11c R Trad, 2 pitches The Narrows : Lichen Wall
Rap Bolters from Hell 5.12a Sport, 1 pitch, 75 feet Charon's Gardens : Lost Dome
Tied to the Whipping Post 5.13a Sport, 1 pitch, 75 feet Charon's Gardens : Lost Dome
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Featured Route For Oklahoma
Mr. Clean 5.8 OK : Wichita Wildlife Refuge : ... : Lower Mount Scott
Mr. Clean is just that, clean. This corner protects well with good movement for 50 feet and then comes a fun little roof. This was actually my first trad lead and I still can't get enough of it, absolutely one of my favorite routes in the Refuge. ...[more] Browse More Classics in OK
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