Ok Ok Ok
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Climb the crack up to a large ledge. Building an anchor is tough, but you can get waist-deep in a slot between the wall the crack is in and the main wall. There is a small tree that can be slung.
Traverse left from the top of the climb to a large chimney with a rap tree.
This route follows the first crack to the left of Kemosabe and is just to the left of Dense Dunce and just to the right of Go Ahead and Jump.
medium gear for the climb, some ingenuity for the anchor
|By John Wilder|
From: Las Vegas, NV
May 9, 2010
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b
very nice route- more sustained than Go Ahead and Jump and more crack skills are required. quite good, though.
take some big cams (#3s and a #4 should do) and a long cordlette with some long slings for the anchor. About 15' left of the small tree at the top the crack pinches down for an anchor. A long cordlette extended with long slings reaches to the lip of the bulge, keeping rope drag down and allowing for a nice TR setup.
|By Szu-Ping Lee|
May 5, 2013
trad lead, nice and fun.
Many good pro placements off the ground, only a thin crack near the top for protecting the crux move. Move to the right to find more holds at this point.
I used 3 small/medium nuts to build an okay anchor. If you want to build a better anchor, a 30 feet extension cord or a cordelette will be nice to have.