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This route offers a better 2nd pitch option for the route Wild Wild west in Dillard Canyon.
When climbing Wild Wild West, break right from one of the last bolts to the two-bolt ring anchor on a sloping ledge atop the left-facing dihedral 20 feet to the right. From this anchor, follow the bolts with some gear in between to a nice ledge atop the cliff with a two-bolt ring anchor. above the 4th bolt are some key large nut placements placed sideways. from here there is a bolt straight above you but climb left up to a flake then back right to clip it. The crux is above a small cam about 5 feet above the 3rd bolt and is somewhat heady because it would not be fun if the cam ripped. Otherwise the climbing is fairly well protected and very fun.
I originally led it ground up with three bolts drilled from stances, but I added three bolts because the original bolts (currently the first, the 3rd, and the 6th) were in stupid spots, resulting in a lot of rope drag and poorly protected climbing in some spots.
In Dillard Canyon on the Wild West wall. Climb Wild Wild West and break right from one of the last bolts to the two-bolt ring anchor 20 feet to the right atop a dihedral.
6 protection bolts, 2 bolt ring anchor at bottom and top of the pitch. They crux is protected by a key shallow and somewhat blind to place green C3 cam or possibly a well worn blue TCU in a horizontal pod 8 feet above the 3rd bolt (a green alien was slightly too big) also bring large nuts for placements above the 4th bolt and cams to #1 camalot for the lieback flake above the 5th bolt
From: western NC
Mar 29, 2010
Andrew, my input doesn't really merit any FA credit, but thanks anyway. I do think that the route deserves 3 stars for quality though. Nice route!
Update: "Puff The Magic Dragon" now makes an excellent first pitch, and allows for an really nice 2 pitch outing.